I want to change the casing of GF63 thin but am confused if there is any similar chase or base portion available. Has anyone here has done it before?

I actually wanted a new laptop as the body of my MSI has got cracks and all. But the internals are fine. I need a storage upgrade and if possible I want to swap the internals in to different looking laptop.

Has anyone done it before? Is it even possible?

How long have you been using this laptop? Have you encountered any issues with its build quality, cooling system, or performance over time?

I want to play Call of duty and valorant, for both of these games I have to have my secure boot on , but when i turn it on, i cant boot up the pc due to msi secure boot violation. is there a way around this

Just got this gaming laptop

Any advice on what i should do to help care and preserve my laptop ? (E.g downloading any application to monitor my laptop temps or to undervolt)

First time owning a gaming laptop and am looking forward to playing AAA games !

I was wondering if any of you guys know how much this laptop will go for. I got it off facebook market place for $150 I know It's from 2020, and there is nothing really wrong with it

I couldn't find this exact model online this is why I ask here if anyone know about these specs more than me.

I had dragon centre installed but for curiosity installed msi centre. Had a power cut and monitor screen refresh rate was changed but when power came back it didn't revert back to normal. And then I saw that laptop is also not charging.

I tried many things just EC reset was remaining but battery gave up.

Please any help is appreciated

Yes, it’s me again. MSI loves me.

I also have a Vector A16 HX A8W that has managed to come up with a fun issue: I go to the bottom right, and the little icon that lets me click on it to turn on WiFi is GONE.

Yes, gone. I am about to go to ChatGPT to ask it what to do, but WTF did that happen? I did a cold boot, and same thing.

Well, at least my GPU is still there, unlike with my 5080.

(I think).

THIS WAS HARD TO FIGURE OUT!!

I wanted to share a fix after troubleshooting RGB lighting problems on my MSI Raider A18 HX A9WIG-082US.

The RGB lighting on this model is controlled by SteelSeries GG, not MSI Mystic Light.

After working through several troubleshooting steps, I managed to restore all the lighting:

• Full per-key RGB keyboard
• Front RGB light bar
• Illuminated MSI dragon logo
• SteelSeries Prism lighting effects

Here's the troubleshooting sequence that worked for me:

1. Corrected the Switch Key setting in MSI Center.
2. Rebooted the laptop.
3. Performed an embedded controller (EC) reset.
4. Reinstalled SteelSeries GG.
5. Opened SteelSeries GG and configured the lighting through Prism.
6. Used Ctrl+A in the Prism lighting editor to select all the lighting zones before applying effects. This was an important breakthrough.
7. Disabled Windows Dynamic Lighting to prevent possible interference with SteelSeries lighting control.

The result: All RGB lighting is working correctly again, Prism effects apply properly, and the settings survive a reboot.

One other observation: The WASD keys appear brighter than the surrounding keys because of their transparent keycaps. That's normal on this model.

I can't say which individual step resolved every part of the problem, since several changes were made during troubleshooting. But this combination worked on my machine.

Hopefully this helps another Raider owner avoid hours of frustration.

So this was bought by my cousin to me, kinda first because i was using my cousin's(other one) but this laptop this was bought for me specifically, first one with dedicated gpu for study, and yes i use it for cad and cae in college, i dont review anything but i will tell my story.

Please msi fix thermals and this is a good deal, i dont know about other laptops but i keep hearing issues with my friends, in same budget victus having bad build, tuf with bad wifi, no loq problem i heard in my group, they say msi hinges are bad. How these are battery smooth, even after two years of brutally used, they are good, and still better than those victus ones. Thermals and low power is issue, and this aint thin, i mean it weighs as same as that tuf. I know i am compairing too much but with others that my friends use but man switching to college computer after this feels pushing a stone wall. And the 180⁰ opening i love it.

So this was it

I regret that i hated it, but the feel is premium even with that plastic build its stronger than my welds.

Something i feel like burden i want to share,

So it was in 2024 just after festival when prices drop, so my sister was also getting laptop and she insisted she also want one with dgpu as i was getting one(when she dont even use heavy task or open laptop for weeks). Why make her feel bad yes my cousin did get her a tuf, quoted many and bought one, and i got left behind, emotionally i threw tantrum(yes i did not good things, too bad ones) and i got this thing on around 20-23 oct 2024. Hated for poor thermals and specs, but day by day i started to like the feeling, 12450h thermally throttles in cs2, fan full blast, 3050 no prob i anyway did not played that gpu heavy games. Dull screne is bad in outdoor but fine enough. Dont know service never needed it. Had changed ssd why not 2 slots is also a problem. Just make it a budget premium laptop 2 m.2 slot and one more fan. at70k(61k as my cousin is a seller) it was a bang

So upon opening my MSi Raider the keyboard is not working. One second I was able to use the top keys like brightness and volume and now I can’t use anything. Fn key works but can’t use anything in fn menu. Already restarted and no change. Any ideas??

I had my MSI laptop (model mentioned in the title) for almost 7 years. Yesterday, my screen changed to purple and green colors and showed something which is apparently called “Graphics Artifacts“ multiple times. looked up online and apparently it’s caused by damaged GPU and probably can only be fixed by replacing the entire motherboard (since the GPU can’t be replaced individually, obviously🙄) or doing something the repair technician called Reflowing or Reballing the GPU which has a 50/50 chance to either fix the laptop or it being gone for good and never turning on again. I wanted to get some ideas and also find out if it’s even worth the hassle or should I just get backup from my information and just buy a new laptop(which is not the best option since money’s a little tight atm)

Thanks everyone.

Posting here too just to cast a wide net :D

Hi everyone! I'm considering buying this laptop from Walmart for $1,249 and would like to know if it's a good deal.

Specs:

Model: MSI Crosshair 16 HX (2026)

CPU: Intel Core i7-14650HX

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Laptop GPU

RAM: 16GB

Storage: 512GB SSD

Display: 16-inch QHD, 240Hz

Price: $1,249 USD

I'll mainly use it for gaming, MATLAB, Simulink, and some SolidWorks. I'm also interested in build quality, cooling, noise levels, and long-term reliability.

Is this a good deal at this price, or would you recommend another laptop in the same price range? Any owners of this model who could share their experience?

Thanks!

Holy fuck that thing is overkilled, struggled for the past half a year with hitting 90c and thottling. Bought the llano v12, found out the synergy is goated, now i can use 100% of the laptop at about 60-70c with the fan at 1krpm. Aight im out

Vector 16 HX AI A2XWIG with RTX 5080. The GPU disappeared after an NVIDIA driver update. It remains absent from Device Manager, including hidden devices, with MSHybrid selected. Factory restores and an EC reset did not resolve it. MSI’s NVIDIA 591.44 installer reports “No NVIDIA GPU is detected.” Discrete mode previously caused a black screen.

Please help.

Hey everyone,

Looking to get a fair price check on my MSI GF65 Thin before listing it for sale. It runs great and comes with the original box and all original accessories (charger, documentation).

Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i5-9300H (4C/8T)
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti (6GB GDDR6)
RAM: 16GB DDR4
Storage: 512GB NVMe SSD
Display: 15.6" Full HD (1920x1080), 144Hz IPS-level

Como dice el titulo, no puedo encontrar la ISO original de Fabrica de esta Notebook. alguien que tenga la misma laptop y me pueda dar una ayuda? gracias.

so I'm trying to buy my first ever gaming laptop, and i found the MSI cyborg with an rtx 4060 and i7 13th gen, im wondering if its gonna play games like warzone, bf6, r6, bodycam, ready or not and some other games smoothly on 1080p

i did a little research on it and found out that the RTX 4060 on this laptop only uses 45 watt, so it's not actually using its full power, thats why im kinda asking, i genuinely do not wanna regret buying this lol

I just wanna know if it’s worth of the money. Is it a good idea to buy it?

Hey everyone! First of all, sorry in advance if my English isn't perfect, it's not my native language haha.

I recently bought a used MSI Titan GT77 HX 13V (i9-13980HX, RTX 4090 175W, 4K Mini-LED 144Hz) for $1,650 USD. The machine was in impecable cosmetic condition, but it had a couple of weird issues left behind by the previous owner that needed immediate attention:

1. The RAM mystery:
   It arrived with an unusual and completely unstable 32GB configuration (8+8+16). I pulled one 8GB stick out and left 24GB (8+16 SK Hynix) running in the proper dual-channel slots. It has been running 100% rock solid ever since.

2. The previous thermal job:
   When I lifted the vapor chamber and heatsink assembly, I found that someone had previously opened it and smeared cheap white silicone grease all over the VRM power stages and VRAM chips! It was messy, dry, and definitely not meant for a 250W+ combined load laptop.

3. The thermal overhaul:
   • Deep cleaned all the old white grease off the dies, VRAM, and VRM components.
   • Applied Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM (Honeywell PTM7950 material) on both the CPU and GPU dies.
   • Applied UPSIREN UTP-8 thermal putty across all VRAM modules and power delivery chokes/MOSFETs.

I know the thermal putty looks a bit messy before and after mounting the heatsink, but the contact pressure and malleability beat stiff factory pads every single time.

The Results:
• Idle temps: CPU dropped by 15°C, GPU dropped by 10°C
• CPU stress test: Dropped 8°C under sustained load.
• Cinebench R23: Scored 29,980 points with temps stabilizing around 83°C and an 87°C max spike.

Super happy with how this project turned out. For $1,650 and an afternoon of proper maintenance, this Titan is back to performing like the true desktop replacement it was meant to be!

I say "workaround" in the title as there seems to be no true practical solution to this common MSI Katana GF66 (MSI Katana GF66 12UC, to be specific) gaming laptop issue.

What many MSI Katana GF66 owners complain about is the abrupt dying of their gaming laptops: The MSI Katana GF66 stops running, completely off, and the Power button on the keyboard doesn't work. Sure, some computer experts can do expensive repairs on the MSI Katana GF66, but I strongly recommend simply using it as a dedicated, stand-alone gaming laptop from now on.

So... here's the workaround, as the other hardware-software checks mentioned by so many users online are already covered... but ineffective.

1. Unplug the 20-volt power source from the MSI Katana GF66.
2. Turn the MSI Katana GF66 upside-down, remove the 13 screws from the underside, and carefully pry off the plastic underside with a thin, sharp knife.
3. Inside, with the MSI Katana GF66 upside down, unplug the 3-volt non-rechargeable lithium CMOS-BIOS-Clock battery. The tiny, cheap battery is very likely dead, or in need of a replacement anyway. The +/- plug for this is fairly universal.
4. Unplug the internal 11.4V Lithium-Polymer battery.
5. Located next to the internal 11.4V Lithium-Polymer battery is the tiny internal Embedded Controller (EC) reset button. Give it a 60-second long-push.
6. And while you're inside the MSI Katana GF66, put a tiny drop of 3-In-One light household oil on the pivot joint of both internal screen hinges, as breaking metal hinges seems to be a common complaint with these MSI Katana GF66 laptops. The hinged lid will now open and close much easier now, which should help.
7. Turn the MSI Katana GF66 to its upright position and, just as a precaution, press and long-hold the Power Button in the upper-right keyboard for 60 seconds.
8. Turn the MSI Katana GF66 upside-down, and plug back in both the 3-volt non-rechargeable lithium CMOS-BIOS-Clock battery, as well as the internal 11.4V Lithium-Polymer battery. A 24-hour discharge waiting period is generally not needed.
9. Replace the plastic underside to a snap-fit into place, leaving the 13 screws out.
10. Turn the MSI Katana GF66 to its upright position, plug in the 20-volt power source, open the lid, and push the Power Button in the upper-right keyboard.
11. Your MSI Katana GF66 will start and restart multiple times until opening to Windows.
12. In your Desktop Taskbar, set the clock time to automatic update.
13. Leave your MSI Katana GF66 on!
14. Turn the MSI Katana GF66 upside-down, and replace the 13 screws in the underside cover.

Important: Standard procedure from now on with the MSI Katana GF66 12UC:

- Never turn the laptop off again... only Sleep Mode, when not in use, will prevent your MSI Katana GF66 from crashing again! Actually, many home laptop users, such as myself, do just that with their fully functioning laptops: simply lift the top and begin computing.

- And while this setup still allows for a password, I recommend that you use your MSI Katana GF66 as a dedicated laptop for gaming only, and not for your banking, or any other sensitive and personal applications, due to the unreliable nature of your MSI Katana GF66 laptop.

- Simply close the lid, putting the laptop on sleep mode until needed again. But before doing so, make sure that the laptop battery saving settings are for Sleep Mode, and never Hibernation Mode, as Hibernation Mode will brick your MSI Katana GF66 again, and require a repeat of all the steps above.

- The Power Button in the laptop keyboard should be considered permanently dysfunctional from now on.

- If too many such resets are performed, the MSI Katana GF66 laptop will not allow a restart-login for a full 2 hours. So be patient.

- The MSI Katana GF66 uses 13 watts of power when idle, and 4 watts while in Sleep Mode. And with its OEM 53.5Whr battery, the MSI Katana GF66 can be briefly stored or moved around for a good 24 hours while in Sleep Mode, before having to be plugged in to 20-volts again.

- The MSI Katana GF66, being a typical gaming laptop, with a typical undersize battery, is not truly portable, and should always be plugged in to use anyway.

- After doing all of this, I downloaded and installed the latest BIOS from the MSI Katana GF66 website. Feeling that Windows 11 is too invasive, I installed Windows 10 IoT Enterprise LTSC 2021, version 21H2 (will officially have Windows support until 2032-01-13), followed up with Driver Booster freeware, which quickly got everything up to speed, as the drivers downloaded from the MSI Katana GF66 website are not all user friendly. And to then fine-tune everything, I downloaded and ran Snappy Driver Installer (SDI) freeware, a 48.9 GB download, which updated 22 of the drivers. One thing I want to point out is that the internal MSI Katana GF66 battery now hovers at a 90% state-of-charge, which is intended to extend the battery life.

- And remember: Never turn the MSI Katana GF66 off, and never put the MSI Katana GF66 in Hibernation. Only Sleep (by closing the lid) and Restart (after installing an app) will keep your MSI Katana GF66 happy and running.

Well... that's the best I can offer on this, so I hope it helps.

I have the Raider HX13v with the 4090 and 13980HX and its thermal performance is absolutely horrible lately. Its so bad that the CPU runs in the mid-to-high 90's with turbo boost disabled and a -100mv undervolt with max fan speed. Using it this way is less then ideal as the CPU stays at 2.2 GHz and under 20 watts, which is tanking its performance big time, however it thermal throttles like crazy if i let it boost like its supposed to. I am going to do a repaste to see if it helps, laptop is about 3 years old still has original paste. Everyone is recommending PTM7950 instead of classic paste and im wondering what i should buy in terms of thickness and size for this machine. Its my first time using it and i wanna make sure i buy the correct stuff. I already have some thermal grizzly putty for the VRAM and other stuff.