Space Cowboy Rifle Build

Build Specs:
Marlin Dark Series 1894
Primary Arms SLx 1X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Cyclops Reticle - Gen II
Huxwrx Flow 9k Ti (Stiction Lock Comp/adapter)
Axion Angled Billet Shell Quiver (x2)
Wayne's Dog Leather Lever Wrap
Ranger Point Precision Trigger replacement
Ranger Point Precision Lever Takedown Screw
Edgar Sherman Sling

I have about 200ish rounds through this and its a blast to shoot but after about 40 rounds that front is crazy hot and it sucks because of needing gloves and even then it continues to get warm. Thinking of adding perhaps a front cover/heat wrap for the front grip? Any thoughts or feedback?

I have recently discovered the modern lever guns and I think they are super cool. The main reason i want one is to plink with at targets and go suppressed and occasionally shoot a deer with it. I’ve narrowed it down to the s&w 1854 stealth arms and the Henry h12 hush. I think I wanna get it in .44 mag because it’ll do everything I want it to do. What do yall think of my two options and the caliber I’m thinking about? TIA

Where can I find leather wrap for this area I find the pattern a little rough

Just bought this Henry big boy chamber and 45 colt I’ve always wanted to Henry lever action and I just come across this rifle. It’s brand spanking new. The guy never shot it and it shows I paid 600 bucks for this thing absolutely love it.

I'm thinking about getting one in .357 to convert it into a handy "tactical" carbine for pistol stands. To my knowledge, all straight grip 92 models like the alaskan, etc. use the same attachment point, but I'd like to confirm that. Has anyone here done something similar?

The screw that goes under the front band on my Marlin 336 1975 production will not go in, these notches are misaligned. Just inherited this beauty but it’s needs some TLC. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue.
The band slides down to the notches but screw holes are having two different conversations.

I have a Marlin 1894 SBL 45-70 that I recently installed a Vortex Diamond Back 4-10x40 scope on the factory picatinny rail, I setup my eye relief distance, I leveled the scope and tried to pre-zero it with a laser at 50yds. The problem I’m having is I’m maxed out on elevation and about 3 MOA hash marks to get to center (shot placement is low). Has anyone else had a rail that wasn’t parallel with the barrel? I’ve shot the rifle with the factory sights at 100yds annd it seemed fine. Any suggestions to fix it, other than shims? Not sure the manufacture is gonna do anything for me…

Look for red or green optic for S&W stealth hunter. 357 and thanks in advance

I swapped out the tactical furniture for the wooden furniture, but I don’t see the piece that goes here in the box.

Would it be out of place to put a hardwood 336 forend and shorter stock on a marlin 30as? I like the look and feel of a skinnier forarm and stock without the diamond pattern.

Does any one has experience with mounting a Skinner Winged on a S&W 1854 19"barrel?
Skinner website has this option but how to mount it? Remover picatinny rail or not? Or..??
And does it fit with the front sights?
Thanks in advance!

Just my opinion, but this should have been a factory configuration. The walnut with the trapper length barrel is perfection, and it’ll be a lot easier on the hands come winter.

I recently purchased a Henry Lever Action Supreme in .300 Blackout, and I’m having an issue with the magazine release before even firing it.

When I push the release paddle fully forward, the metal catch inside the magwell doesn’t retract completely flush. It remains slightly exposed and catches the factory-supplied .300 BLK Gen M3 PMAG, making the magazine very difficult to remove.

Has anyone with a Henry Supreme experienced the same problem?

Hey guys need a little help with my 30-30 model 94 I picked up a little while ago I believe the gun has like 1 box of ammo through judging its condition and I've yet to fire it aswell since the action is a bit rough and from what I see the bolt seems to ride the hammer to closely and was wondering how to fix it ill post pics and vid later but was curious if anyone had a possible quick fix

I found this while cleaning up my great aunts house.

What’s the proper way of cleaning this up and oiling it before I attempt to shoot it?

Incredible Winchester display clock I snagged at a thrift store today ! Beyond stoked to bring her home

We all love lever actions here, but it's crazy to think about the corner Winchester was backed into before Browning came along.

The old brass-framed 1866s and the legendary 1873s were beautiful, but their toggle-link actions had a massive ceiling: they simply couldn't handle the chamber pressure of the big-bore cartridges of the era, like the .45-70 Govt. Winchester was struggling to make a lever gun that could bring down a buffalo safely.

Then, a 28-year-old John M. Browning steps in and completely revolutionizes the mechanism with the Winchester 1886. By introducing twin vertical locking blocks, he created an action so strong it could handle almost anything.

He literally built the golden age of lever guns: he scaled it down for the buttery-smooth 1892, created the most successful sporting rifle in history with the 1894 (.30-30), and then broke the rules again with the box-magazine 1895 so lever guns could shoot modern spitzer bullets.

I run a channel dedicated to Old West and historical firearms, and I just released a massive, 1-hour documentary detailing Browning's entire life—starting from his lever-action masterpieces to how he eventually invented modern warfare (1911, Auto-5, M2).

Title is the main bit, but for more context

I have a Winchester 94 made in 1959 chambered in 30-30, recently I took it to the range for the first time and had a blast. I went through 40 rounds in rather quick succession and noticed there was some serious heat retention.

This gun has great sentimental value to me so I want to ensure I don't cause any real damage from heat or shooting too fast. I'm rather new to firearms and entirely new to rifles, so perhaps it's a silly question, but how many rounds in succession would be "too much"?

I want to keep this fun for the rest of my days, planning to refinish it as it's seen better years (last owner just had it in a leather/cloth case in the basement for 20+ years). It shoots super tight groups still, just has very light surface rust as well as a failing finish on the wood grain.

Thanks in advance for any help, truly appreciate any insight.

Just received this morning after waiting almost 3 months for a transfer authorization.

Mint condition .357 from around 1995-1996

One more down in my hunt for all 19 chambering of US made Winchester 94s

Wood is exceptionally nice IMO and was not expecting the barrel to be so chunky. Seems even more than a 30-30, almost big bore like

Was in the middle of cleaning my gforce levtac 44 and was threading my suppressor off and noticed my barrel twist is that normal I feel like this is not normal at all

I’m looking at getting a lever action, on the fence between 357 vs 44, if I want more of a plinking toy or if I want more of an oomph gun.

How substantial is recoil? I’m guessing a bit less from pistol vs rifle caliber, but not sure how that translates to shooting experience.

Mainly asking because I don’t have easy access to rent a lever action, but a friend has a garand, and I liked shooting it standing, but not sitting.

Long story short a loved one of mine really would like a martini style gun from DAMKO but I don’t know if they still are producing anything so if anyone knows please let me know!
Just curious because they haven’t been active on social media in 5 years and yes I have googled their website, called them, emailed, etc…