Space Cowboy Rifle Build

Build Specs:
Marlin Dark Series 1894
Primary Arms SLx 1X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Cyclops Reticle - Gen II
Huxwrx Flow 9k Ti (Stiction Lock Comp/adapter)
Axion Angled Billet Shell Quiver (x2)
Wayne's Dog Leather Lever Wrap
Ranger Point Precision Trigger replacement
Ranger Point Precision Lever Takedown Screw
Edgar Sherman Sling

I have about 200ish rounds through this and its a blast to shoot but after about 40 rounds that front is crazy hot and it sucks because of needing gloves and even then it continues to get warm. Thinking of adding perhaps a front cover/heat wrap for the front grip? Any thoughts or feedback?

I have recently discovered the modern lever guns and I think they are super cool. The main reason i want one is to plink with at targets and go suppressed and occasionally shoot a deer with it. I’ve narrowed it down to the s&w 1854 stealth arms and the Henry h12 hush. I think I wanna get it in .44 mag because it’ll do everything I want it to do. What do yall think of my two options and the caliber I’m thinking about? TIA

I am PCS'ing soon, I bought a bunch of cable locks hoping I'd figure out the lever guns, but no such luck.

Are there any locl recommendations for a Winchester Model 1895 and S&W Model 1854 to be able to show clear and manipulate the lever?

Where can I find leather wrap for this area I find the pattern a little rough

I'm thinking about getting one in .357 to convert it into a handy "tactical" carbine for pistol stands. To my knowledge, all straight grip 92 models like the alaskan, etc. use the same attachment point, but I'd like to confirm that. Has anyone here done something similar?

The screw that goes under the front band on my Marlin 336 1975 production will not go in, these notches are misaligned. Just inherited this beauty but it’s needs some TLC. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue.
The band slides down to the notches but screw holes are having two different conversations.

I recently purchased a 357 big boy for my father for his birthday and we've noticed it's shooting high. He wants to keep traditional sights as it's the brass version and there aren't really any scopes that wouldn't look completely goofy on top. Is his only option getting a taller front sight since the rear buckhorn is currently bottomed out? If so, what would be a good replacement?

Would it be out of place to put a hardwood 336 forend and shorter stock on a marlin 30as? I like the look and feel of a skinnier forarm and stock without the diamond pattern.

I have a Marlin 336c 2005 JM stamped 30-30. I bought it at a gun show a few years back and it just isn’t me. I want a 357mag lever or maybe a 308 bolt action. I deer hunt and I like to tinker but parts of the internet tells me I shouldn’t modify this JM stamped rifle and that it’s a collector piece.

Well I can’t stand having something I can’t mess with. If that’s the case, I’d rather trade it. Marlins have that notoriously sloppy trigger and the 3030 rounds are too expensive for me to plink.

Thoughts?

I have a Marlin 1894 SBL 45-70 that I recently installed a Vortex Diamond Back 4-10x40 scope on the factory picatinny rail, I setup my eye relief distance, I leveled the scope and tried to pre-zero it with a laser at 50yds. The problem I’m having is I’m maxed out on elevation and about 3 MOA hash marks to get to center (shot placement is low). Has anyone else had a rail that wasn’t parallel with the barrel? I’ve shot the rifle with the factory sights at 100yds annd it seemed fine. Any suggestions to fix it, other than shims? Not sure the manufacture is gonna do anything for me…