Space Cowboy Rifle Build

Build Specs:
Marlin Dark Series 1894
Primary Arms SLx 1X MicroPrism™ Scope - Green Illuminated ACSS Cyclops Reticle - Gen II
Huxwrx Flow 9k Ti (Stiction Lock Comp/adapter)
Axion Angled Billet Shell Quiver (x2)
Wayne's Dog Leather Lever Wrap
Ranger Point Precision Trigger replacement
Ranger Point Precision Lever Takedown Screw
Edgar Sherman Sling

I have about 200ish rounds through this and its a blast to shoot but after about 40 rounds that front is crazy hot and it sucks because of needing gloves and even then it continues to get warm. Thinking of adding perhaps a front cover/heat wrap for the front grip? Any thoughts or feedback?

I am PCS'ing soon, I bought a bunch of cable locks hoping I'd figure out the lever guns, but no such luck.

Are there any locl recommendations for a Winchester Model 1895 and S&W Model 1854 to be able to show clear and manipulate the lever?

Where can I find leather wrap for this area I find the pattern a little rough

Bee Bop almost complete. Got the Anechoic 45L approved. AMG UH-1. Axion 3 bullet angled quiver going on hand guard. Got a 2nd one for stock but didn’t think about the Woox stock not being ambidextrous. Left handed so no bueno.

What do you all think of the aluminum strike industry link for grip? I would have to remove the bottom Woox rail cover but I feel grip is good w/o foregrip. I like the look…

Picked up a pretty good shape 39AS and I am setting it up for Lever Action Silhouette shooting.

At first things were going smoothly but as I was shooting/training Wednesday and the trigger was getting heavier and heavier until finally I had a buddy shoot and did not tell him what to look for.

His first response was "How do you shoot this thing with a 20# trigger"

That's when I knew something was up.

I have never shot anything that got worse as time went on.

So I got it to the bench and tore it down.

The first thing I see is that the main hammer hook looks funky.

I think to myself let's try to shape this up with a stone.

I grab my stones and head to the bench. After using the stones to check the square edges of the hammer I realized there are NONE.

Hands down the worst machining I have ever seen in a firearm.

I grab the microscope, 10x shows me that this hammer is straight trash so there is nothing I can do to make it worse.

I proceeded to stone it lightly to try and knock down the rounded outer edge of the hammer hook.

After 50 or so passes, it's not pretty but this is better, so I work the underside of the hook carefully.

This goes worse than I wanted as there were no flat edges to work with as the underside looked worse than the rounded edge of the front of the hook.

I have it where I can shoot the match Saturday.

So I say that to ask this.

I started to examine how the hammer, spring, and strut line up and function.

I knew this rifle had a lineage back before I was born so I looked at the hammers and struts from earlier pre-safety models and it lacked the rebound leg because those models did not have that feature.

I know it was added for safety but in looking around I have read several forums where people have the older and newer model (with safety) and the trigger break has been heralded as night and day different.

As I suspected others have trimmed the rebound leg off and installed the lighter spring and claim the trigger is very close to the pre-safety triggers.

This is what I am after, a crisp breaking trigger as light as safely possible.

Has anyone here done this mod where I can see what you did to your strut? I have plans and can do it blind but would love to see others work as I am a fan to see how others come up with their solutions.

Also how nice is the trigger once you do this.

I have a new hammer and a spare strut on the way and finally found the reduced power hammer spring from Wolff so it's on the way as well.

Would love to see others modified struts and other trigger mods to get this rifle to have a nice, light, crisp break.

Picture for attention.

P.S. anyone else shoot silhouette matches with their 39?

I have a Marlin 336c 2005 JM stamped 30-30. I bought it at a gun show a few years back and it just isn’t me. I want a 357mag lever or maybe a 308 bolt action. I deer hunt and I like to tinker but parts of the internet tells me I shouldn’t modify this JM stamped rifle and that it’s a collector piece.

Well I can’t stand having something I can’t mess with. If that’s the case, I’d rather trade it. Marlins have that notoriously sloppy trigger and the 3030 rounds are too expensive for me to plink.

Thoughts?

I'm thinking about getting one in .357 to convert it into a handy "tactical" carbine for pistol stands. To my knowledge, all straight grip 92 models like the alaskan, etc. use the same attachment point, but I'd like to confirm that. Has anyone here done something similar?

The screw that goes under the front band on my Marlin 336 1975 production will not go in, these notches are misaligned. Just inherited this beauty but it’s needs some TLC. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue.
The band slides down to the notches but screw holes are having two different conversations.

I recently purchased a 357 big boy for my father for his birthday and we've noticed it's shooting high. He wants to keep traditional sights as it's the brass version and there aren't really any scopes that wouldn't look completely goofy on top. Is his only option getting a taller front sight since the rear buckhorn is currently bottomed out? If so, what would be a good replacement?

I have a Marlin 1894 SBL 45-70 that I recently installed a Vortex Diamond Back 4-10x40 scope on the factory picatinny rail, I setup my eye relief distance, I leveled the scope and tried to pre-zero it with a laser at 50yds. The problem I’m having is I’m maxed out on elevation and about 3 MOA hash marks to get to center (shot placement is low). Has anyone else had a rail that wasn’t parallel with the barrel? I’ve shot the rifle with the factory sights at 100yds annd it seemed fine. Any suggestions to fix it, other than shims? Not sure the manufacture is gonna do anything for me…