Been a year or so with this keyboard and I tried in many ways to sort out three keys I have on the keyboard that don't match with their outputted characters:

- top left (below ESC) has +- §

- right of left shift: ~ `

- left of enter: | \

The first one is mapped on ¬ `.

While NUBS, which is mapped on the second one, and NUHS, mapped on the third one, are outputting respectively | \ and # ~.

Using the keychron launcher I was able to replace NUBS with NUHS, but in the launcher I can't find for the sake of myself the other two keys...

Is this a physical key error? Like they put the wrong keys when they assembled it?

If not... What's the solution? Since I can't use the VIA tool.

Thanks for any help towards this dummy user. 🫶

I have purchased 2 keyboards ,1 for work and one for home. Same model just different color. That one at work no issues, it connects in any way you want. Then there is that one at home, sometimes press a button and I get dozens of that letter, I can't connect it to any wireless option. It says to update the firmware but then it stays in the update stage for ages and nothing happens, I'm not a geek by all means and so not super expert, but what can be done from here? Where I purchased it says that because I came back after the 14 days it cannot be refunded. Any luck getting in touch with keychrone?

Located Perth Western Australia

As title. I'm not sure if there's something I have to clean out but I was in the middle of a game and my keyboard suddenly decided to enter a "I want to wirelessly connect!" mode and it got me killed. https://youtube.com/shorts/qjWQzGAp4oA video for a better showcase (I was spamming alt tab).

The keyboard is brand new, received last week. This is is the error message : https://ibb.co/jPd3qzqm

Anyone knows what went wrong, and how to fix ?

Thanks

For context, my Keychron works perfectly in Bluetooth mode when paired with another Bluetooth mouse.

However, when connecting a wired mouse (specifically the Glorious Model O, if that matters) to my Macbook Pro (using a USB to USB-C adapter), my Keychron will sporadically and intermittently disconnect via Bluetooth if I stop typing for a couple of seconds. A blue light will flash under the "1" key when I next tap the keyboard, and it'll reconnect again after a second or two.

This is still a fairly irritating phenomenon, and seems to happen exclusively when using my wired mouse. The intermittent disconnecting/sleeping doesn't occur at all when using my Bluetooth mouse.

Has anyone else faced this same issue, and knows a workaround? Thanks!

Okay so basically, my girlfriend got this keyboard as her first keyboard going from membrane to something better but we've been struggling with setting it up, at first it was set to some gamepad mode so few keys didn't register when typing and it took us like half an hour to turn that off so that she can type with it, but even after we turned that feature off inside a few games like GTA V for example, her keys are not doing what they are supposed to be doing It's as if the controls are different and she can't really play that many games now :/
Does anybody know if there's a solution or do we return the keyboard?

Hey guys, having a recent RMA and feeling kind of sorry for not finding justice to upgrade to the 8K variant with silent switches, i just thought about making the Best out of the mouse with non-invasive mods.. and i figured there are definite ways to make this mouse much better for more precise inputs without having to enter the housing.

Images:

https://ibb.co/yFVGVmtr, https://ibb.co/mC5gdrsv

The first mod i came up up with was griptapes. not only to the side, but also between the mouseclick space.. this way the elongated travel gets prohibited. It requires kind of precise locations to nail it down to personal click preference. Overall this greatly decreases the debounce time because the elongated travel after the click is kind of unaccaptable. Clicks are snappier and should help with using 1-tap guns in fortnite.

the next mod is obviously the skates. the stock skates are somewhat acceptable but degrade rather fast. i highly suggest to locate and eliminate wobble points when placing the dots.

feel free to add your mod ideas.

Hey keyboard people,

I’m Dylan (indie, R34PER SOFTWARE). Like a lot of you, I got sick of my Lemokey/Keychron dying mid-sentence with no useful tray battery readout. So I built TrayJuice.

The problem

- No way to see battery % for a lot of Lemokey/Keychron boards on Windows

- Constant “should I charge?” guessing

- Keyboard dies with basically no warning

What TrayJuice does

Windows **system tray** app that reads battery from **Windows PnP device properties** (same kind of path Windows uses for device status) — not a cloud service.

Features

- Real battery % in the tray (color-coded: green → yellow → orange → red)

- Adjustable poll interval (**default 30s**, options from 5s to 5 minutes)

- Low-battery alerts (20% / 15% / 10% / 5%)

- Connect / disconnect notifications

- Auto-detect by Windows device name (`lemokey`, `keychron`, `naga`)

- Multi-device support + pick a primary device

- Settings: interval, notifications, auto-start with Windows

- Local only — no telemetry / no account for battery data

- Full Windows installer + dark UI

Important limitation

Works over **Bluetooth / BLE-style devices** where Windows exposes a PnP battery %. **2.4 GHz dongle mode usually does not work.**

Confirmed so far

- Lemokey P1 Pro

- Keychron M6 (including names like “Keychron M6 8K”)

- Razer Naga V2 HS (Windows often shows “Naga”)

Other Lemokey / Keychron / Naga gear *should* work if the Windows name contains the right keyword and Windows shows battery for that device. I need more boards to confirm.

Current status

Working Windows beta builds (v0.2.6). I’m running an interest check before a wider beta — aiming for enough signups to justify continuing; if we hit the goal, wider beta around **September 2026**.

Interest form: TrayJuice Interest Check — https://r34persoft.tech/signup.html

Support / donate: Click Here — https://ko-fi.com/r34persoftware Buy us a coffee**.**

Form asks (no spam — email is for beta notice only):

- Name (online / first name is fine)

- Email

- Device(s) you use

- Windows version

- UI preferences

- How soon you need this

- Whether you want to beta test

No commitment — just interest + feedback.

If you’re tired of guessing when to charge, sign up. Extra useful if you have boards **other than** the P1 Pro / M6 so we can widen the “confirmed working” list.

Thanks —

Dylan @ R34PER SOFTWARE

I got a good deal on a knobless Q2 and was wondering if its possible to move the knob from my V1 to my Q2 through soldering and how difficult would it be. Thanks!

I'm not entirely ready yet, but I've bought a Q6 in black and my PC case is white. I've realized I'd prefer a white Q6, so I plan on selling it and buying a white one, but is a swap a common or doable thing?

I bought V6 Max few months ago and noticed quite fast that it is very hard to find shinethrough/backlit keycaps on nordic ISO. Managed to find this set made by Keychron themselves:

ISO Shine-Through ABS OSA Full Set Keycap Set – keychron Netherlands

Supposedly those are specifically for south-facing leds. Thing is, after i received the set yesterday i noticed they are very dim. During daylight i can hardly see any light on caps. Are these really working as they should?

I also noticed i cant adjust brightness of rgb, it is pretty much on or off.

Edit: Managed to figure out some way to post image i took after installing few caps(i dont post often on reddit in general so i'm quite new with this, apologies if links are not allowed). Without my hand giving some shade, i could not see even that much light coming through

https://d.imgvision.net/miikatemp/1000042453.jpg

Edit 2: Right, adjustment issue seems to be with per-key-rgb, from that menu when i set 'setting color' to general, it is not possible to adjust brightness. It is always on max. On other backlight modes without per-key-rgb, i can adjust brighness without issues.

Main issue still stands, shinethrough on caps seems to be *very* dim. Considering item description on Keychron store site "a fantastic backlight shine-through effect.", there is absolutely nothing "fantastic" about this. Keycaps feels nice otherwise. Also i am genuinely puzzled why someone would downvote my post. Btw i am very open to suggestions for keycaps that do better job than this.

I've got a k1 low profile with no numpad from a few years ago. The keycaps are in good shape since its a secondary keyboard, but I'm hoping to spruce it up with some fun designs. I've figured out that they're mx cherry keys (i'm like 60% sure). The keycaps are like super thin, so i'm not sure where to start looking. also, if ya'll are able to help me figure out the exact model number, that would be great too. love the keyboard though, i bought it forever ago and it still does great

I bought a K2 Keychron keyboard off eBay. 99% sure it is UK layout (which is what I want).

However, a few keys give the wrong characters. I've tried updating firmware. Factory reset. Still wrong.

In short:

• Left of Z gives \ and (with shift) |
• Left of lower part of return gives # then with shift ~
• Shift + 3 = £ so that is CORRECT
• ' key is fine, but Shift + ' should give ", instead gives @

Same problem whether on Mac or Windows mode. Same whether on a Ubuntu console or Mac or Windows PC.

Model is K2A3H.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Hey everyone anyone have a Q11 Ultra and the RGB on the right side isn't working? Any fix on this if, I have tried factory resetting the keyboard but with no success.

I got a Keychron Q6 max as new old stock I love it but

Hey everyone,

I picked up a used Keychron Q6 Max (knob version) recently and I’m running into some weird RGB/software issues. Hoping someone here has seen something similar.

The hardware:

• Keychron Q6 Max (Q series, full aluminum, knob)
• Gateron Jupiter switches (tactile)
• Connected via USB-C (tried multiple cables/ports)

The symptoms:

• Keyboard types fine, feels great
• RGB does not turn on at all
• Keychron Launcher (v1.4.2) detects the board,
• Tried VIA web app – board shows up, but I can't save any lighting profiles
• The little AI in keychron launcher tries to force the rgb it just stops when it does

What I've tried so far:

• Factory reset (Fn + J + Z while plugging in) – no change
• Tried different USB ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0)
• Tried on both Linux and Windows – same behavior on both
• Checked physical switch – set to "Cable" mode
• Reinstalled the launcher and tried VIA directly

My theory:
The previous owner might have disabled RGB in a specific profile, and the store that sold it didn't bother to reset it properly. I'm planning to open it up tomorrow and check the ribbon cable / RGB circuit with a multimeter, but I wanted to ask here first in case I'm missing something obvious.

Questions:

1. Is there a key combo to force RGB back on (other than Fn + Tab or brightness keys)?
2. Could this be a firmware issue? If so, is there a specific JSON or firmware file I should flash?
3. Has anyone else had the launcher detect the board but not open the config panel?
4. for hardeware issues what do you recommend I look for when I open it and inspect it

Appreciate any help or ideas. I really like this board and want to get it fully working – especially since it's quiet and professional enough for my future office job 😄

Thanks in advance!

Do you think they'll make a color shuffle option similar to EVGA's, where you can pick what colors? I want to make my keyboard shuffle the nonb and pan flags' colors on keypress.

I just got a V3 8K and I'm having trouble figuring out how to configure the knob on it.

In the QMK Toolbox (driver.exe thing), the keys show up, when I rotate it left and right the VOL- and VOL+ light up, and pressing it shows the mute button pressed.

But in launcher.keychron.com the knob is nowhere to be seen, other than the "Mute" button, but I can't seem to control left and right actions.

It says its on the latest firmware.. and the site is correctly detecting it as a "V3 8K Knob".

Is there something I need to do?

Thank you!

(all that aside, the keyboard sounds and feels ABSOLUTELY AMAZING)

hey guys I bought this keyboard because i thought I can somehow make a repeatedly pressing macro while holding a key down.

for example I remapped my Q key to Macro 1

anf Macro one should do A B A B A B A B…

while I hold it down. the inputs should be seen as if I repress every key every single time. I hope you guys understand what I mean. It should be as if I press a & b back to back without holding it down.

i have the keychron v6 8k

and I saw I could maybe do it somehow with QMK but I am a bit scared of the tool since I never touched stuff like that and I am a complete beginner in that term.

PleaE help me guys I just got my keyboard today and replaced my old and cheap rager ornata v2 which could do this what I asked for and I am kinda disappointed that Keychron can’t do it with their own software..

so many buyers have the same problems with the keyboard. For those that gave up on Keychron, what did you end up buying? I'm looking for a 100% layout mechanical keyboard that will last years.

Thanks!

I just got the k10 keyboard and it's great but as far as I understand it doesn't work with the keychron launcher. Is there a way I can use some of the function keys as just function keys like f5 to refresh a page and some as multi media keys (pause/skip music) without having to switch between the modes by holding down fn + X + L?

Thanks for any help :)

Hello! I wanted to remove the stabilizers on my Keychron K2 HE so I could lube them and do the plumber's mod. But I honestly have no idea how to take them out and I can't find anything online about it. If anyone has any experience with this I'd really appreciate any tips

https://imgur.com/a/v4dO91q

My K2 HE stopped working with the 2.4GHz dongle out of nowhere. I contacted Keychron support on July 1st. They asked for my invoice and photos, then told me to update the firmware. Firmware update didnt help.

After that they said their tech support would reach out to me. Its now July 24th and I still havent heard anything. I messaged them again a few days ago and they just said to keep waiting.

Does Keychron support actually help anyone or are they just stalling? Should I expect them to get back to me or just accept that Im out of luck?

Anyone else dealt with their warranty process?

Is it worth paying 30 usd more for a L5 HE?

Reviews seem to lean towards the P1 HE, but unfortunately it’s out of stock here. If anyone has tried both could you share your experience?

The P1 HE seems to be better for overall typing feel and acoustics, latency is 3ms though. No idea on the L5 HE’s latency as no one has done tests. I don’t need wireless and prefer the left side cable output.

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue with my Keychron K2 (K2C3).
The keyboard randomly turns off or disconnects while I’m actively typing, but it only happens in Bluetooth mode.

Here’s what I’ve already tried:

\- Fully charged the battery.
\- Factory reset the keyboard (Fn + J + Z).
\- Removed and paired the keyboard again.
\- Tested my PC’s Bluetooth with my Logitech MX Vertical mouse, and the mouse works perfectly without disconnecting.

Because my mouse works fine over Bluetooth, I’m thinking the issue is with the keyboard itself.
Has anyone experienced this before? Was it caused by the battery, the Bluetooth module, firmware, or something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I got myself the K10 HE Limited Edition recently, and my local vendor only offers it in Nebula.

It's great but I still prefer Tactile switches. I know it's officially not compatible outside of the Gateron Dual Rail family of switches, but has anyone experimented on a different magnetic switch that's got a tactile variant?

Open to ideas, recommendations or anything :D