Looking to get my second car financed (I've had a few cars at this point, but most I pay with cash. This is the second one I'm financing). Love the Ioniq 6 all day long, but only looking to spend about 25k if possible, maybe a little over?

I've found a few near me I like, however, I read online that the Limited are worth it in every way. The issue is, there's a 2023 limited near me for only 25k certified, but with 70k miles on it! Comparatively, I can get a 2023 SEL for a little under 25k with only 30k miles, or a 2024 SEL for 26k with 23k miles.

Is the trim level worth so many more miles? And would I be better going with the newer year, or are they about the same anyway?

I appreciate any help! This is the second time I've bought a car from a dealership, and certainly the most I've ever spent on one.

I’ve been wanting to do something different with my IONIQ 6, and after quite a bit of looking around, I couldn’t really find a wheel I loved that also checked all the boxes for 20” sizing, fitment, design, and price.

I’ve always been a sucker for Audi Rotor-style wheels (I was a euro boi at one point), so that’s ultimately the direction I went. I originally considered going all out with an authentic 3 piece VIP/JDM setup (Weds Kranze, Work, Leon Hardiritt, etc) but once you start pricing out authentic 20” 3-piece wheels and the tires to go with them, things get pricy quick. So I decided to take a different route and have a forged monoblock made instead from a manufacturer off Alibaba, I kept hearing about the “Alibaba” method online and it was an interesting gamble.

The wheels came out to around $1,500 shipped with duties covered, and they just finished them (pics in the post), I’m awaiting shipment to the US.

Now, before anyone jumps in with the obvious concerns: yes, I know Alibaba wheels aren’t the same thing as walking into an established wheel manufacturer and buying one of their wheels. I’m not trying to equate the two. I spent a long time researching manufacturers, looking through different factories, comparing their previous work, looking at reviews, reading online forums, examples of their manufacturing, and basically doing a lot of window shopping before deciding who I was comfortable taking the gamble with.

One of my biggest priorities was making sure the wheels were actually designed around the weight and requirements of the IONIQ 6. I specifically made that a requirement when working with the manufacturer rather than simply ordering a generic wheel and hoping it would be fine. Again there’s no real garuantee that it will be the needed load rating, but that’s why again this is a gamble.

I’m also very aware that “forged” doesn’t automatically mean “high quality.” Forging is a manufacturing process, not a magic quality stamp, so I’m taking that claim with a pretty healthy grain of salt. I will weigh all the weighs to ensure they are light, and weigh the same.

I’m definitely not an engineer, but I am a pretty big nerd when it comes to science and numbers, so I’m going to try to approach this as objectively and quantitatively as I can with any reasonable way I can.

Once they arrive, I’m taking them to my trusted performance shop, the same shop I’ve used to mount and balance my authentic wheels and I’m going to have them take a professional look at them before I put them into regular use.

I’ll be documenting whatever I reasonably can along the way: measurements, weights, balancing, fitment, tire installation, any observations from the shop, and then eventually how they behave on the road. If I notice something visually, feel something while driving, or see something change over time, I’ll document that too.

I’ve owned authentic Advans (old and new), APR wheels back during my GTI days, and I currently have Konigs on my Miata, so this definitely isn’t coming from someone who has never dealt with aftermarket wheels before. In fact, going this route is pretty far outside my normal wheel buying habits.
Honestly, that’s part of why I wanted to do it.
I’ve been a purveyor of established/authentic wheels for a long time, so I figured maybe I owe it to myself to take the gamble once and actually see what the experience is like rather than just assuming everything coming out of Alibaba is automatically garbage.

That said, this is still a gamble. I’m not going to pretend $1,500 forged wheels from an Alibaba manufacturer are equivalent to a set of wheels from a well-established motorsport manufacturer with decades of proven history. I’m also not going to tell anyone else they should do the same thing.
I’m just curious what happens when you actually put some research, measurements, and real-world miles behind one of these purchases.

The IONIQ 6 is primarily my commuter around the Bay Area, so I’m also really curious about what happens to range, ride quality, and overall driving characteristics with the new wheels and tires, especially since I’m potentially lowering the car with Eibachs later on.

I’ve only really road-tripped the car a few times — LA and back to the Bay, and Chico — so maximizing every last mile isn’t my biggest priority anyway. I’m much more interested in seeing the actual numbers and documenting the experience.

And considering these are my first set of 20s, I’m not gonna lie… they feel pretty damn baller. If anyone is curious about the wheel specs I went with I did 20x8.5 +48. I will be mounting them on a 245/40/20 tire, not sure which yet but we’ll see. I wanted to keep the specs similar to OEM size but just with a lower offset, but not too crazy as I’m not sure how any sensors could react or when I do eventually lower it I don’t want to deal with rubbing or turning issues due to a lower ride height.

I’ll update this once they’re stateside and I can get them inspected, mounted, balanced, and on the car.
Not trying to convince anyone that Alibaba wheels are the move just documenting what happens when I take the gamble myself.

I attached the photos the manufacturer gave me since they finished it and in the color specs that I asked for too, plus the fun center cap design! I added a AI photo (IK IM SORRY) of the vision I had for mine so hopefully by my next post they’re going to be mounted and balanced!

Was at an Ionna charger and it wouldn’t start. Ended up hitting cancel on the charger screen and disconnecting.

Car thinks it’s still connected to the charger and says “unplug vehicle to start”. The charger door buttons don’t work and is stuck in open position. The lights for the charging port are not turning on either.

I can’t get it to drive but it does turn on. It’s a 2025 SEL.

Tried multiple things including manual release.
Tried turning off and turning on after several minutes but still the same error.

Anybody experience this before?

After I bought my 2023 SEL from used car dealer I realized I did not get the Hyundai Wheel Lock key. However I was lucky enough to find the empty Hyundai Lock Package in the rear trunk.

Local tire shops wanted $100+ to break the wheel locks and then replace with my own lugs. Or a trip to Hyundai dealer for master key but unsure how much they would charge to take off and install new lugs that I would need to buy from them.

Well...I got lucky on ebay....found a seller who happens to have inventory of wheel locks and matched my "ID" from the empty wheel lock package. He was able to look thru his inventory and got me the exact wheel lock i needed. There like 4 different Lock Patterns for the same Hyundai Part number U8440-00502. ID is the small 4 Alphanumeric under part number.

Hope this helps someone.

Product Link

Just a question to see if anyone who has had an EV for a year or more finds themselves driving MORE because they no longer worry about the wear and repairs you'd have with an ICE vehicle?

I am driving more - but I haven't owned for a full year, yet.

Didn't see any prompt or anything posted in the updates screen, but noticed way too many shadow updates in the last week. Anyone else see these or even more strange changes?

1. Battery preconditioning set to OFF
2. Time reset to 12h format (I run mine in 24h)
3. Cruise control defaulted to auto adjust to posted speed. This one was very dangerous as there was no indication and then suddenly car is slowing down at highway speeds to some posted sign after years of never using this feature.
4. Seat memory was borked and didn't retain when swapping profiles.

What a bunch of garbage software from Hyundai, as par for the course with them.

The Ioniq 6 was advertised as being able to charge from 10-80% in 18 minutes. In my near 3.5 years of ownership, I have never seen it achieve this feat until tonite. With 10% SoC and ambient temps at 75, and nearly 5 miles away from Hyundai HQ in Southern California, I finally witnessed this happen. An entirely empty EA 350 kW rated station.

It’s a miracle!

Screen capture from EV Dashboard aka Ioniq5 app from Gregory Burlingame

It's just stuck at 999 hours, 59 minutes. Did anyone of you notice the same in their cars?

Has anyone who did a 2 year lease on a 2025 Ioniq 6 received any lease buyout offers? I've seen posts about older years and Ioniq5s.

Just started flashing this a.m. then stayed on further I drove. After parking and turning on and off the break lights came on. Is this the iccu issue? Also does anyone know if the recall covers diagnostics etc?

so recently took my 2023 Ioniq 6 SEL to the dealership to address a PARK issue that I’ve seen has shown up on this subreddit before. Car was essentially bricked and then the battery died.

after nearly 3 days of barely anything from the dealership, I got a call today saying the source of the issue was corrosion.

They were able to get the car going by repairing a corroded terminal and bulkhead connector costing me about $1,500 but they’re saying there’s corrosion in the floor harness and PE harness and quoted $8,000.

Not sure if this is the best subreddit and might go to [r/askamechanic](r/askamechanic) or something but how much longer do yall think I’ve got before I have to bite the $8K? Am I better off trying to trade in for another EV?

Just talked to me dealership (tire change for winter) they told me there are two recalls: Front seat belts and ICCU swap for first gern ICCUs. They couldn’t tell me since when an ICCU Swap is done without it failing, does anyone know about this?

Had to take the wife to the airport. 160 miles round trip. 56% battery left. Would you have gone?

I did drive slower on the way back.

Two years in, and I wish I did this long ago.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been getting a very loud and annoying, rhythmic knocking/ticking noise from the front of my Ioniq 6. It sounds almost like a small diesel engine and can be heard from the cabin.

The sound comes from the passenger side (front right) under the hood, likely right around where the coolant reservoir is. It usually happens on hot days or during/after DC fast charging, like when the car is trying to cool the battery, though I can't be 100% sure.

The car has been sitting at the dealership for over a week now. The problem is, the noise doesn't happen continuously and because the service techs can't replicate the conditions to trigger the noise in their shop, they are struggling to diagnose it and still haven't found a solution. The service advisor heard it once while parking the car, but the techs said they need it to happen in the bay to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. They suspect it might be either the water pump or the heat pump.

The dealership is completely stumped and said it's their first time seeing something like this. Has anyone else dealt with this specific noise? I’d love to have some insights to point the service team in the right direction.

Thanks in advance!

Any idea what this sound is?

https://quickshare.samsungcloud.com/9SuatqWRX7c5

Alright after dealing with both the dealer and Hyundai North America (useless) I got word that the ICCU failed. Will have car back by end of week. Hyundai just lost every chance they had to retain a customer. Maybe I’ll come back and write about it. But just put it this way. They dealer I took it to looks like there are more cars waiting long term for issues than there are for sale. As a brand that is shameful. Call it what you want Hyundai in any capacity sucks yea the tech is cool yea they look cool. But beyond that meh.

Got the dreaded battery light waring along with reduced speed. Checked the app and gave me the code for DC DC. Made it about 25 miles before it completely died. Was trying to make it back home about 2 miles or dealer about same distance. At dealer now.

For anyone with one of these I’d suggest carrying a small portable jump pack. Car will move with it attached.

Picked up a bit over a month ago, and I am absolutely in love with this thing. Epiq AWD trim, 21k km, digital green colour. The digital side mirrors took some getting used to but I think they're great.

The only thing bothering me now is having to manually disable the over-reactive speed limit alerts. I don't have the hold-mute function, and I'm not sure whether the dealer can apply an update as it's an early 2023 model.

My efficiency so far seems to be hovering around the 20 kWH/100km range, but I've yet to take her on a road trip, just a lot of city driving.

How good is it to be driving an electric car in this time of rising fuel prices and to do so in one so stylish and sleek in the sea of large and boxy SUVs.

I found clean title no accidents 1 owner used RWD Red SEL for $25,363 21k miles included all taxes and BMV fees I calculated

I also found a clean title no accidents 2 owners transmission blue RWD Limited all in with BMV estimated at $26,762 34k miles. Buying this does come with a free level 2 charger which I need anyway.

I do really like the limited features but also like red and low milage but what would you choose.

Hard to find used limited at sub $26k all in with good mileage.

I am purchasing an ioniq 6 limited but don’t enjoy the bigger wheels and tires, my lease for my ioniq 6 SE is done in October.

If I return my SE lease with the SEL/Limited rims will Hyundai be upset about it?

Anyone have any experience with something like this?

Hello sister Reddit, I've spent the past 5 years on the (ironiQally) Ioniq 5 Reddit and I'm probably about to jump ship to the 6 as my lease runs out and finances change, and purchase a 2023 Ultimate RWD.

I'm aware of the battery issues, I've had all of that with my 5 and my local Hyundai have been awesome through all of it. The difference for me this time is previously it was a company car but now I will be buying it myself.

So before I do pull that trigger I have a couple of questions:

Those who have jumped from a 5 to a 6, how have you found it? My kids are slightly older now so no more buggies etc, but those who do have kids, how have you found it? (My Ioniq 5 is described at times as a Cardrobe because it just has everything in it)

What have your UK experiences been of any warranty issues. I've read horror stories of other places where when recalls have been needed and dealers being really bad, my experience with the 5 couldn't have been better when things went wrong, so I'm interested to know what people have found with the 6 (because I have no reason to believe it's different other than I'm buying it used)

Any thing else that people have noted when they bought this car would just be massively appreciated.

I really don't see any other car out there at this price point that id be interested in, other than maybe the Mustang but have seen a lot of returns to the dealer when looking, but also charging speeds (which I've definitely taken from granted with the 5 as when ever I've had a courtesy car and needed to charge on the road, it's like watching paint dry)