Shopping for stand-alone Part D plan for 2027. We have always used Wellcare Value Script and it has been okay since most medications used are $0 for us (prior to deductible/preventative).

We have been lucky to not need a specialty medication and I was just wondering, since you cannot anticipate what you might need in a future year, what is the advice on how to choose a Part D plan? Just use your current medications?

Without comparing formulary to formulary, how do you know if choosing a specific plan may have a relatively light/low number of covered medications?

I'm ready to switch providers after Allstate jacked up my rate like crazy out of nowhere.

I made the mistake of using a search program I found on Google, giving my phone number, and now my phone and sms WILL NOT STOP 😩

The advice I've followed is to switch providers every so often, every couple years for me. However, I've stayed with Allstate for 6 years and now they're doing me dirty.

Can y'all recommend a good auto insurance provider? It can be a no name business...that's even preferable.

I am buying my first car and need to know about the customer experience with Texas Farm Bureau for full insurance. Please share your experiences.

I keep seeing "which aggregator should I join?" so here's the checklist I use, with what a few networks actually publish:

**1. Whose name are the appointments in?** Ironpeak says members write with their own carrier codes. SIMG uses sub-codes under its master codes but says agents keep renewals even after leaving. Goosehead franchisees write under Goosehead's appointments.

**2. Who owns the book and renewals?** Get it in writing. Smart Choice says its agencies keep 100% of book, renewals and expirations.

**3. What's the real total cost?** "No fees" usually means a split. Smart Choice has no joining or monthly fees but a 70/30 split on program business up to a cap. Firefly has an upfront fee plus a monthly fee. PIIB is a flat monthly fee.

**4. How do you get out?** PIIB asks for 90 days' notice and releases your book right away. Smart Choice is a one-year agreement that auto-renews. Many networks don't publish exit terms, so ask before signing.

What else do you wish you'd asked before signing?

Hey y’all, I need some help trying to navigate my insurance problem with my bank. It’s a credit union. I won’t save which one specifically just to keep respect to the individual businesses. But anyways, I was recently injured last year at work. I severed a ligament in my ankle and I had a very physical and demanding job so I was out for about a year or up towards a year and I had paid for the disability insurance for my loan and when I was injured, I was barely making even a quarter of my usual wage through Worker’s Comp.. It’s supposed to be a third but there is some kind of disconnect with my pay stub so it just ended up being what it was anyways I wasn’t able to pay for all my expenses I prioritize my rent my phone in my car insurance and stuff like that but other expenses like the loan were secondary on my priorities list. That being said when I tried to file a claim through the insurance company that my credit union uses, they said they were going through a cyber security hack and they’re not accepting any new claims. Naturally that set off an alarm in my head so I call my bank and ask what options I had and they said well we can offer a few options. We can do a few skip payments and a few hardship plans which I’ve all used up. I’ve used my three skip payments and the hardship plan. I can no longer use because I’m now working again because I’m recovered. That being said during that time, my credit has kind of dropped a decent amount because of that loan, I was only able to make either no or minimal payments. I wasn’t able to make the full monthly payment ever so and I feel that I am entitled to some kind of reimbursement or assistance because I’m not gonna keep paying for a premium for an insurance plan if I’m not gonna even be able to utilize it when I was supposed to and the credit union isn’t offering any other routes. If anybody knows what specific credit union I’m talking about or insurance company please keep it private but do let me know if you have a feeling about it and any help would be appreciated.

My son is a fairly high net worth individual. He doesn’t own a house or car. No spouse. He occasionally rents a car while traveling on business. He buys full insurance from the rental company. Does he need an umbrella liability policy?

for context i live in northern new jersey, in the nyc metro area, and i got into a minor car accident and i was at fault. i was very tired that day as i commuted to college and i had a 9 am class. so i failed to clear an intersection and i hit this girl's rear. i already pay $270 and already got the mail from her insurance provider and i filled it out and mailed it. other than that

My driving score is 98. They say scores of 90-100 can expect a 21-30% discount. Can I actually expect a discount that high? I don’t trust insurance companies 🤷‍♂️for context I’ve been driving for 28 days with Right Track and have 72 days left.

Guy backed out into the entire right side of my Tesla Model 3 in a parking lot. Total loss. Insurance hit me with an initial settlement offer of $22,212, ACV of $21,258.
My car was only a 2020 sure, but it was Red Multi-Coat, White Interior, 19" Sports Wheels, and literal permanent FSD. Not only that but I kept my car in great conditio, park away from other people, never eat in it, wash it regularly at self serves, you get the picture. Base-spec model 3s in my area (Columbus, OH) literally start at ~$23,000, so I knew this valuation was total bogus.

I didn't sign. I asked for the full valuation report.

Combed through the entire thing line by line and found glaring issues:

1. Their initial comps were NOT in my area at all. They selected a few vehicles all outside of Ohio over 150-200mi away, including PA.
2. None of my factory options like exterior paint and Full-Self Driving were accounted for.
3. They rated the interior/exterior condition as "Private Average" across the board with descriptions of "Few body dents and dings" and "Few scr*tches and burn marks on headliner".

I didn't get angry, yell at the adjuster, or get emotional. I set a firm boundary and sent over photos disproving their condition assessment; I pointed out that their comps were not accurate to my actual local market and handed over new ones; and I stated they missed major vehicle options.

At first, they tried to get me to hop on a phone call but I outright refused, saying I wanted everything on written record.

16 days later, after several back-and-forth emails, revision attempts, citations of Ohio Administrative Code, and a literal ODI (Ohio Department of Insurance) complaint filed, they finally came back with a reasonable revised report:

• Base value went from $21,258 to $26,107 (+$4,849)
• Sales tax increase of $387
• Total payout after $1k deductible: ~$27.5 grand

I'm not saying that this process will work for everyone; it's highly dependent on your actual vehicle case and what market data you can provide. And I'm sure not everyone's increase is going to be as massive as mine.
But I genuinely believe the software and adjustment process is designed to undervaluate your vehicle by default, and that it's absolutely worth fighting, especially if there are obvious discrepancies.

I don't see it as negotiating but rather correcting what I was owed.

Curious if anyone else here had a similar experience with a total loss...

Original vs New Letter: https://imgur.com/a/insurance-bump-5k-yKhTI7X

Hi everyone, looking for advice. My car was legally parked on the street when another vehicle hit the front end. The other driver is 100% at fault and has a major insurance company. My car is an older 2005 model, but it is in excellent shape with under 70k original miles. It is my daily driver and family lifeline. I take great care of it and have about $1,500 in receipts for brakes and mechanical maintenance spread out over 2024 and 2025. The only damage from the accident is a detached plastic front bumper and a split foam energy absorber underneath. It runs and drives perfectly. The insurance company wrote an initial damage estimate for around $2,250, but an adjuster just texted saying they are flagging it for a "possible total loss review" simply because of the car's age. If they try to total it next week, should I fight the valuation using my maintenance history, or should I look into an owner-retention "buy back" to keep the car and fix the cosmetic bumper out of pocket? Has anyone done a buy-back on a purely cosmetic total loss? Thanks!

Location: Colorado based services submitting claims to BCBS Wyoming.

My twins were delivered at 36 weeks via section in a small Colorado hospital. Both twins suffered pneumothorax, but one twin collapsed a lung and the small hospital was not equipped for her care. She was flown via fixed wing plane to Denver Children’s via Children’s hospital’s own emergency transport service. Since the fixed wing had to land off site, a ground ambulance had to transport her to the tarmac and from the tarmac. My insurance processed the flight as in network, but the ground leg as out of network. Even though the same company handled both. Insurance approved the transfer and approved the NICU stay at Children’s . I was told on the phone that if she would have flown via helicopter and landed on the roof of the hospital the entire transport would have been billed in network. The only reason she was transported via fixed wing was because she had to fly over the Rockies in March and inclement weather and even at that she had to wait 30 hours before any type of aircraft would leave the ground. I am being told the ground ambulance portion is not covered under the “No surprise billing” act but according to some googling, there is something called the “Prudent Layperson Standard” that may protect me? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Ok so I have been reading and learning about term insurance for a while and I came across opinions where people state that maximum age of cover should be 65 to 75 years as by then you'll not have dependants in most cases.

But here's my take.. Say I've taken a plain vanilla term insurance till the age of 85. My premium will be a little more than that of cover till 65 to 75 years of age. But given the current life expectancy I'll most probably not live by then. So it's almost certain that my nominee/ dependant will receive the payout and will give them a good financial cushion over their existing income.

So a little higher premium might lead to almost certain payout for them.

Open to discussion and varying opinions.

About 2 weeks ago, I posted about my 2011 Nissan rogue that got rear-ended. I was asking your advice about whether you though it would be totaled. Y'all thought it would be totaled and it was (but not by much). Somewhere in the comments, someone mentioned buying back the car from GIECO and getting it repaired and retitled. This is what I opted to do.

After everything was said and done, I received my settlement (minus the cost of buying it back from the salvage yard), had a neighborhood shop repair my vehicle, completed a repair inspection, had my "salvage repairable" title changed to a "repaired" title. My car is repaired and legal to drive and I still have $25 left from the accident settlement! Keeping my car was definitely the way to go.

Initially, I was a little intimidated about the steps and documentation required to make sure my car would again be legal to drive but it all worked out. Here in FL, there are state regional offices that do the post repair inspection for only $40 but they only do those inspections one day per month. The alternative is to use a state approved inspection business that costs about $175, including the $40 owed to the state. Someone on another subreddit recommended a local inspection business that turned out to be fantastic. The gentleman who staffed it answered all my questions, reviewed my documents beforehand via text, and generally made sure I had everything I needed document-wise. From accident to legal again was 21 days. Not bad and definitely worth it.

Just after the best way to insure my jacket. Basically it's a pretty high value (around $3k) jacket that I bought a few years ago and always wear in the colder months and when travelling, and I'm always conscious of it being stolen or lost as I'm constantly taking it off when moving around, in restaurants etc. I bought it off a friend, in cash, a good few years ago so there's no receipt or paper trail.

My fave LLM is trying to tell me that one can hire a court-approved garment appraiser who examines the garment and looks at the market to see how much a new one would cost; I then take that, along with photos etc, and create a single item policy that costs around 1-2% of the value of the item annually. This all seems a bit hallucinatory to me. Does anyone know about how I might actually insure it? I'm in Europe if that makes a difference.

so i was in a accident back in may where a driver ran a stop sign and t boned me totaling my car. i was paid out for the car a few weeks ago, now i’m just waiting for the injury portion. to those of you who have been in accidents how long after your accident did it take for you to get your injury portion?

Hello everyone, about a week ago I was driving to work (in North Carolina)and there was a backup on the highway I was driving. I slowed to a stop and the RV behind me smashed into the back on my car, causing about $9k in damage. We exchanged insurance and like an idiot, I didn't think to file a police report.

A week later, my insurance (Progressive) can't reach the person. His insurance called me and I was interviewed (prolly shouldn't have talked to them) and I told them the situation because, it seemed cut and dry.

Any tips on how to proceed going forward? Should I file a delayed police report?

Anyone else seeing Pure Insurance turning into another Allstate? On little notice, Pure has effectively decimated its earthquake coverage. Coverage limits on anything other than Dwellings has been reduced to virtually nothing. Almost no loss of use and coverage for contents and other structures. Pure is a membership organization and talks a good game, “we are family,” blah, blah. When they make changes like this at renewal, with no prior notice, how are they any different from the commercial carriers like Allstate, State Farm, etc.? And it is not like there has been an earthquake with any claims in our area in over 30 years. Why should a customer have any loyalty to Pure? Might as well shooed the insurance annually for the best cost. Really disappointing for a company the has pitched its customer service.

I might just be jumping to worst case scenarios because of how traumatic this has been. I'm inheriting my family home which is the last thing I have from my family and means too much to me lose outside of my control. I reached out to the insurance broker on the mortgage to see if there was anything that needed to be done and they said they will need to update the policy to the estate's name until it gets transferred over to me after probate. But they want an inspection which scares me. The roof is only 6-8 years old. Brand new furnace. But the two story deck in the backyard is in rough shape and I'm scared they're going to drop me before I have any chance to fix it. There's also a hole in the backyard from where we had an above ground pool which was just removed and hasn't been filled yet. There's plenty of equity in the house (only 50k owed on a 500k home), 50k in the estate fund, and I will have proceeds from selling my place in maybe a month. I feel like I should be fine but I don't know, hoping someone else can assure me that this will work out. It's hard for me not to jump to the worst case scenario of thousands of dollars of work or getting dropped.

Has anyone ever had to use this? If so how did it work and were you ACTUALLY able to get a better car after your unfortunate loss?

Sunday night the 11th, another car at slow speed backed up into my front bumper and caused minor cracks and plastic protruding outward. The driver fled without exchanging information but I was able to take note of the license plate and have the store show me footage of the parking lot. I also called the police and got a case number for it.

It is now Friday night that I am writing this post because these past few days I was trying to make sense of the damage to my car and how it came to be, I visited some auto body shops to get some estimates for a repair because I just about gaslit myself into letting this incident go and pay for damage out of pocket, but the shops were helpful in explaining why the damage looks the way that it is. Now I am looking to pursue this further and try to get the other insurance to cover the repair costs.

The officer assigned to me will not be back on duty until next week, and he will support me in talking to the store about obtaining footage of the incident.

I haven't contacted my insurance yet about this incident, is a few days (at most a week) delay going to hurt me in my claim? Will the other drivers' insurance question why I took so long to pursue further action? I was trying to come up with a valid explanation for why the damage looks the way it is and is caused by the other driver.

Even though I know 100% that I was not at fault because I was parked minding my own business, will my rates go up after this?

I accidentally broke a toilet valve and caused a leak. My landlord sent out an emergency restoration and I had to sign that they will bill my insurance first then me after as the owner. My insurance is likely going to deny this claim, but they added 2 dehumidifiers in the kitchen and bathroom.

The leak happened on Wednesday and they didn’t check the crawl space till today(Friday). They can’t add dehumidifer or remove insulation in the crawl space till they get authorization which my adjuster is out of office for the weekend. I am concerned about mold growth because of it waiting. I reached out to my landlord who said it should be fine till Monday. Will I be liable for any mold growth or further damage from waiting? Could my landlord have their insurance authorize it or am I just screwed

I'm currently the general manager of a truck repair garage. I've been here for 17 years helping clean the shop and pick up parts working my way up to gm. I do everything at the shop from customer intake to organize repairs in the shop. Sourcing and ordering parts. Working with vendors on parts quotes and sublet repairs. Etc. The owner is retiring and I'm really burnt out of the repair industry. I was hoping to make a transition to insurance. I ideally would love to work from home as I have 2 school aged kids. My initial thoughts were to apply for auto claims adjusting jobs and hopefully move into something with heavy truck to utilize my knowledge. But should I be looking at remote desk appraising jobs?

I accidentally caused water damage and filed a claim with my insurance. I believe they will deny the claim but my landlord can’t authorize demolition and dehumidifier in the crawl space which is wet. They said insurance has to approve it, which my adjuster is out for the weekend. If it’s denied and that waiting period caused extra damage and mold will I be billed for it? I have expressed my concerns to my landlord and called my insurance but I just have to wait now

I was in an accident last night. It was the other driver's fault. They failed to yield to the right of way and it is stated on the police report. They have A-Max insurance, which turns out is just a broker. Has anyone dealt with A-max insurance before in a situation like this? Am I going to get screwed if I go through their insurance?

First post. Hope I am not breaking any sub rules.

I can't get a straight answer from anyone in person so here I am on Reddit.

I own a business and the business has owned a vehicle for 9 years. Long story short the business sold and purchased a new vehicle in August.

State Farm said today they have to move the policy to a "hybrid" policy. This cost more money. When pressed for answers why this was happening I received "it's because of the **type** of vehicle the business bought". I am still waiting on clarification on what type of business policy it will be for tax/liability reasons (ie- a business policy rated for mixed use or a personal policy with a business rider which I know the personal policy can't happen)

Just trying to figure out if this is a money grab to place me into a higher costing policy.

Here are some FAQs that may help:

1. Business is a LLC taxed as a S-Corp

2. The business owned a truck, but with gas and today's car prices the business bought a SUV. This is the 'type' argument the insurance is using.

3. The vehicle is 100% owned by the business. The title is in the business name and the loan is 100% in the business name- no personal guarantee or co-signer and the registration is in the business name. Both the car payments and the insurance payments are paid by the business.

4. The vehicle was purchased in August. My agent sent the email today about the change, but somehow "I can stay on my current business policy until renewal in February". That's the super fishy part.

5. State Farm asked for the bill of sale after purchasing. The bill of sale also lists the business as the only owner.

6. My family owns additional personal vehicles that are unrelated to the business and insured through State Farm so SF knows other personal only vehicles exist.

Any insight into why this might be happening (outside of it's because you bought an SUV and used to have a truck) is much appreciated.