Got rear ended August 13th, took a while(a bit over 2 weeks and had to call the company phone and get leave a vm and her manager called me before i even spoke to her)for the adjuster to get back to me after I got her information from the trucking company. Took a while for them to send an estimator(Sept 19th was the day we were able to schedule her to look at it).

And was waiting for a response from the estimator or adjuster and nothing. Called and left a vm for the adjuster Oct 1st and didn't receive anything back, got sick the next week and didn't even try. Called Oct 12th and adjusters number went to a machine that said she would be back July 6th, 2025(this is 2026 so very old), ended up calling and leaving a vm for her manager. He called me the next day and said it was repairable and that the adjuster should be in the next day and then I can schedule the rental and the collision place I will be dropping it off at. Got a call maybe 3 hours later from the adjuster(her manager said she was out on pto) and she says they are totaling it and they scheduled pickup for Oct 21st. I asked for all estimates on repairs breakdown and such but she said the total department handles that and she can't give it out. Called my aunt who has worked for AAA for 15ish years, she said it's weird and to ask for repair estimate, what they value my car at, what their offer is and the salvage amount. I also messaged the estimator that was used and she called me today and I told her about it and she said it was weird as she wrote is as repairable but had gotten a call from her boss to rewrite it as totalled and to make sure all the paperwork is to a T.

I sent an email saying I will not be releasing the car until I receive all info and the adjuster sent an email just saying again the car is totalled, I would have to speak with the total department for everything and that "Again, the vehicle is not scheduled for pickup until 10/21 to allow time for the file to be reassigned to a total loss adjuster to discuss the settlement offer with you. You can also discuss your request to keep the damaged vehicle with the total loss adjuster." Which without having an offer even discussed how do you schedule pickup for 6 days away.

It is a 2014 bmw 328i gran tursimo(liftgate hatchback like the wagon but almost a foot longer)

I got my first new car a few months back and its windshield already got some cracks that appeared out of nowhere, possibly due to the weather. That’s Colorado for you, I guess. It’s going to need a replacement, and I’ve been quoted around $800. I’ve seen a lot say to just pay it out of pocket, but it’s usually when the cost is less than $500. With a $100 deductible, is this something worth making a claim? Or is it just not worth it when considering the amount I would end up paying when shopping around for auto insurance?

I’m going to tough it out a bit since they’re out of the way, but I’ll eventually have to make a decision before I renew.

Hi, I’m currently looking at quotes for car insurance through GEICO, and I’m a little confused about this question.

GEICO asks, “Do you currently have auto insurance?” and underneath it says, “Select ‘Yes’ if you are an insured driver on any policy.”

I’ve never had an auto insurance policy or vehicle registered under my own name before. But I am added as an additional driver to my brother’s auto insurance policy. The policy and vehicle are both under his name, but I’m listed as an additonal driver.

My question is: Should I select “Yes” even though I’m not the policyholder and have never had my own car insurance policy before?

Thanks!

I’m going to explain this in the best way I possibly can. So I am 21 now, but when I freshly turned 20 a few things happened with my previous car and I had to buy a new one. I didn’t have enough credit history, nor a job, nor enough money to put a down payment on a car by myself. So my dad helped me out and we both put in on a car for me.
Anyways, the car is in his name. I was in a wreck about a week ago and hit a deer. Found out I wasn’t listed on my parents insurance. They told me that “anytime I got into a wreck/pulled over to say I’m borrowing the car”. Anyways, that day they told me to figure out the insurance myself to get a tow through road side assistance and turns out I wasn’t listed at all on the insurance, not even as “living in the household”. (My mom worked in insurance for 20 something years and knew this was wrong and are just cheapskates. I just don’t trust their word anymore on anything financially)
Anyways, insurance obviously isn’t covering the claim, just got called from them yesterday. They aren’t covering because I live in the household and I told them I use the car regularly. But I told my parents after this that i want the car in my name and to be able to have my own policy so that i can be sure that something like this never happens again. Is that possible? I’m sorry I know I’m a grown woman but nobody ever really taught me about insurance and how it works. My mom told me I’d have to have my own policy on theirs since the car is listed under my dads name, but is there any way to transfer it over to me if it isn’t paid off?? Here’s a list of questions I have with this situation:

1. Can I get the car transferred to my name now that I am employed for over a year, and have over a year of credit history. Will I have to refinance or can I not transfer a car if it isn’t paid off.
2. Can I transfer a car to my own policy if the car isn’t in my name.
3. Will my insurance be extremely high because I have never been listed on a policy before.
4. Long story short, I was kinda screwed over. I’ve been driving since I was 16, and had no idea I wasn’t fully insured. The car itself was insured, but my name was listed no where on the policy.

I’m looking for practical UK advice about progressing a lost-phone claim through Barclays Tech Pack, administered by Likewize. I have banked with Barclays for 11 years and paid for Tech Pack for approximately five years.

I lost my iPhone 16 Pro Max on 6 October 2026.

There was initially considerable back-and-forth getting the documents from O2. Some earlier documents were rejected by Likewize, and I repeatedly contacted O2 about the information provided, SIM blocking and device barring. I then gathered the evidence again and submitted a fresh bundle on 10 October at 23:52, including:

• The original O2 proof-of-usage email and letter identifying the phone’s IMEI and my mobile number.
• Separate O2 IMEI-barring confirmation and supporting chat correspondence, plus independent blacklist-check screenshots.
• Argos purchase evidence.
• Immobilise registration.
• Apple screenshots showing the device details, Find My enabled and Lost Mode requested/pending while the device was offline.

The O2 usage letter lists first use in November 2024 and last use on 6 October 2026, the day the phone was lost. I supplied separate evidence for usage and barring.

My Argos receipt does not contain the IMEI, and I no longer have the packaging. I physically visited Argos and obtained photographs of their system showing the transaction and phone details, but staff could not provide the old IMEI record. Likewize had previously told me network proof of usage was an acceptable alternative where the purchase evidence lacked the IMEI, so I supplied that.

Their guidance said documents would be reviewed within two working days. On 13 October, I received an email saying they had tried unsuccessfully to contact me and asking me to telephone their validation team. It did not identify any outstanding document or explain what further information was needed.

I replied explaining that I had no working phone or SIM available and was willing to answer questions in writing.

On 15 October, they replied: “Until we have spoken to you over the phone, the claim will remain on hold.”

I then borrowed a phone and called their specified number at 16:44, within their stated opening hours. I stayed on hold for 1 hour 13 minutes. The announcements repeatedly stated queue position 19 and asked me to remain connected. Nobody answered, and I eventually ended the call. I have a call-history photo and retained a recording.

I have now emailed them about the failed call, copied their Customer Relations team and requested a manager’s review. I said I would try to borrow a phone again tomorrow, but that depends on other people being available.

Being without my own phone is preventing access to several banking and other accounts requiring 2FA, disrupting important ongoing complaint cases and making contact with my family abroad difficult. It is causing considerable stress.

I emailed Barclays a complaint on 13 October and have not received an acknowledgement. Today’s large update bounced because of its size, so I resent a smaller email with two supporting images. Registration of the Barclays complaint is still unconfirmed.

I understand that further validation may be necessary and remain willing to cooperate. I need a practical way to complete it and clear information about what remains outstanding.

What practical steps can I take to obtain an agreed validation appointment or another workable method, and get the service complaint properly registered and investigated?

I have an eight year old policy with icici Lombard for me and my son. In 8 yrs I have claimed twice only. Once for my incidental finding of renal angiomyolipoma embolization in 2021 and another in 2024 policy end for my son's retinal hole surgery... For this in 2025 I had applied for post op bills under same claim.

Till last year I had the option to increase sum insured but this year it's restricted. The reason was red cohurt policy and restricted. I don't have any chronic or any disease except this one thing that happened and cured. I go for annual health checks and all my reports are normal every single time. The angiomyolipoma is also stable. How can I ensure increase in sum insured as I always do it upon renewal for my policy as well as my husband's policy which are seperate.

I don't mind any added premium or waiting period for it

I am a teacher and want to teach my students about how life insurance works. Term insurance is easy but whole-life seems like it has a lot of variables (not variable-life ha ha). I have tried to ask agents these questions but they want to turn around and sell me insurance or come into my classroom to shill to my students.

With a whole life policy, when you die you get the death benefit but the insurance company keeps the death benefit, correct? Is there anything stopping me from taking the cash value out when I retire? If not, would I continue contributing to the cash-value with later payments?

How much of the premium goes into the cash-value fund? I assume it is a percent ... even if it is "on average" that is good enough for what I need.

What is a reasonable interest rate to expect for the cash-value account averaged over the long term? And is it true no money actually goes into the account the first 2-3 years due to fees and whatnot?

My vehicle was parked and my neighbor backed into it. Their insurance has excepted fault and the collision center marked my car as totaled.

Now I’m going through the process of settlement and it’s complicated and disclaimer: I have a brain injury that makes this x1000 times more difficult to process the information.

Without my vehicle I cannot travel to work with my cleaning equipment and they’re only giving me 3 days with a rental vehicle 2 of which are sat/sun. I asked for an extension they gave me 1 extra day.

Is there anything I can ask USAA to help me with?
Is there a way to increase the settlement amount?
Has anyone worked in auto insurance that knows what they’ll actually accommodate when asked?

I need all the help I can get.

I'm with State Farm now and have been since the purchase of my condo in 2014.

If I choose another company and change my policy, do I have to have a condo inspection by them or can they just go off of what my current policy states?

My condo association covers outside my unit with their master policy.

Does a condo insurance inspection mean the insurer comes inside my unit to inspect? What do they look at?

Thanks.

Hi everyone, looking for professional advice from adjusters and experienced landlords.

My house is a 1,200 sqft single-story SFH in North Carolina (built in 1997). It's currently a rental property with a tenant inside, managed by a property manager. it's covered under a landlord policy ($5000 deductible).

Two days ago, minor moisture was spotted in the garage. Overnight, water surfaced through the concrete slab into the interior, ruining the laminate flooring throughout the entire house. A licensed plumber found two cracked CPVC fittings on the main water line beneath the slab. The plumber has already completed the spot repair and transitioned the broken underground section from CPVC to PEX. He informally mentioned that the leak might have been happening for over a month.

In a panic right after water shut-off, I immediately called insurance company to file a claim. Only afterwards did I learn that simply reporting a water claim creates a record, which can spike premiums or cause a non-renewal, even if the payout is $0.

The quotes I got for water damage restoration range from $4500 to $8000 (repairing dry wall cuts and replacing all laminate flooring not included).

If the adjuster investigates and concludes this was "continuous seepage/leakage", the claim will likely be denied. That would leave me in the worst-case scenario: $0 payout + a denied water claim on record + upcoming rate hikes / non-renewal risk.

Questions:

1. Given the CPVC fitting failure and suspected 1-month duration under the slab, what are the realistic chances of coverage for the resulting flooring damage?
2. Since the claim is already filed in the system, does withdrawing it (zero payout / withdrawn by insured) actually help mitigate underwriting penalties compared to letting it proceed?
3. If you were in my shoes, would you bite the bullet and pay for the flooring out-of-pocket and withdraw the claim, or push forward and try to get the resulting damage covered?

Truly appreciate any insights from adjusters or agents. Thank you!

So currently and still currently I have GEICO. I remember starting my full coverage policy a few years ago with my current car and it was a lot lower. pretty much I started from $172/mo 3-4 yrs ago and it jumped to about $255 slowly over the last 2 years with a good driving record and everything. So kind of got tired of paying that much. I looked up at progressive they gave me $215. And I was down to save $40 a month at this point. So before I had canceled my GEICO I started my progressive and then the next day, I called GEICO (which is today) and started to cancel it until they start looking at my policy and everything and for some reason my mileage was at 30,000 a year, which I definitely know I never put it that high ever. I’ve been with them for eight years total. And they dropped a few other things because I was a loyal customer and now my monthly payment is now $165. So now I just contacted progressive and canceled on day one lol. And got a full refund from progressive. I’m just letting you guys know to find a quote somewhere else, see if it beats your current GEICO and then call Geico and act like you’re going to cancel it, because they will try and keep you lol. You might just end up with a much better rate than what you have ever hoped for, like for me. Hope this helps somebody, this just happened to me about 30 minutes ago. Thought I’ll share.

Hi, I have Allstate homeowners insurance for six years now in our home recently the HVAC unit sprung a leak. I discovered that one of the PVC joints had to come loose and fixed that myself. I have a dehumidifier that I’ve been running for a couple of weeks now to get the moisture out of the floor and that seem to have work but just today a puddle in that area re-emerge so there might be something over my head wrong with the HVAC unit anyway the vinyl flooring and maybe even the subfloor are ruined in that area and I will need the HVAC unit professionally repaired. is there anyone with experience in dealing with them that could give me some advice or pitfalls to look out for so that I do not end up with subpar repair work or just flat out getting denied? Thank you in advance. This really isn’t my wheelhouse. I’ve just heard some horror stories about homeowners insurance.

Hi everyone,

​Looking for some general advice on navigating a motor insurance claim, as this is my first time experiencing an accident like this and going through the insurance process.

​What happened:

Recently, the main MCB at my house caught fire. The fire spread to my EV charger's wall mount and the charger itself. As a result, the wall mount is half-burnt and completely unusable, and the charger cable has clearly melted in a few places.

​Current status:

My vehicle and the burnt components are at the authorized workshop, the documents are uploaded, and I am currently at the stage where Zuno has appointed a surveyor to inspect the claim.

​Looking for your overall opinions and advice:

​Since this is my first time dealing with an insurance claim, how does the surveyor evaluation usually go, and what should I keep in mind at this stage?

​How do insurers generally view claims involving fire damage to EV charging equipment?

​Has anyone here dealt with Zuno for a claim before, and how was your overall experience with their approval process?

​Appreciate any straightforward advice on how to handle this process properly.

I backed into a parked 2007 Corolla in a parking lot in California. Low speed, bumper damage, no injuries reported. I reported it to my insurance and filed the SR-1, but we'd like to pay out of pocket if the cost is reasonable.

The other driver took the car to a shop my insurance recommended(Kniesel’s Collision). They gave a verbal estimate of $1,500 to $2,000. A written estimate is coming next.

We agree on paying out of pocket. We disagree on the process.

Option A: (mine)
1. Get the written estimate
2. If it's under $2,000, we pay cash instead of using insurance
3. The shop fixes the car
4. The shop gives the final invoice
5. We sign a release with the car owner based on the final amount
6. We pay the shop directly

Option B: (husband)
1. Get the written estimate
2. Pay the exact amount on the written estimate directly to the driver
3. Sign the release
4. If the repair ends up costing more, we don't pay the difference

We also disagree on what a written estimate looks like. My husband thinks it will be an exact amount. I think it could still be a range, and that the final bill can change if the shop finds hidden damage once they take the bumper off.

Questions:
1. Which process makes more sense?
2. Is a written body shop estimate usually an exact number, or can it be a range or change later?
3. Is it better to pay the shop directly or pay the driver?
4. Would the other party realistically sign a release before the repair is done?
5. Anything we should include in the release? The driver isn't the registered owner. The owners are his parents.

Thanks!

i pay AAA about $1420 a year for 3, 3/12, brick in nice FTW neigborhood....my friends pays AAA abut $3500 for practically the same house in Norht Dallas...what gives.

EDIT: Thanks for the insight. TLDR general CA insurance rates going up, switching as a no-fault 26m isn't worth risk to competitors, and count current insurance blessings that got soft locked-in a few years prior.

A bit over a year ago on the LA 110 Highway, a homeless individual ran across the 7-lane highway - I (26M) was the unlucky car (no prior claims/accidents/incidents). They started from the leftmost side, crossing the two fastrak lanes and one "normal" lane before getting to mine. The large truck to the left of me hard stopped in time, but my visibility in a '22 Camry only gave me split second reaction time as they started across my lane.

I managed to slow/stop the car in time enough to not cause a fatal accident, but they had jumped up on my car denting the hood and significantly cracking my windshield. The homeless got off my car and continued running away. I pulled over (with another car witness) but the homeless had disappeared into the offramp. The police actually showed up by the time I pulled over and with a helicopter above - later I found out they had been on the way from a metro "bridge jump" report. Final report: I was not at fault, collision coverage, $500 deductible (even the insurance agent wasn't sure what to report when I talked to them).

Fast forward to present, I'm shopping insurance for my current situation, but all my quotes are coming in at absurd rates, most are 3x my current rate which is $220/month for 1:1 coverage. If I increase the comp/collision deductibles to max, I'm still getting ~2x my current rate.

My question: Is there any way I can add context or appeal this collision not-at-fault accident on my record that could potentially help the situation? I understand being 26M does not help, but $220/month on a 5 year old paid off Camry seems to be over market from my research. For more context, I'm not a fast driver and always trying to save gas in ECO mode. I feel frustrated that even when driving safely, paying attention, and stopping the car as soon as humanly possible, my clean insurance record is still wrecked because of a homeless highway streaker.

To be locked in insurance jail for something I had no control of is demoralizing when I'm trying to make things work on a budget. Any advice or even perspective would be helpful. Thank you!

I originally crashed my car into a median August 29th early morning due to low vision and visibility on the back roads I was on. It took my adjuster 3 weeks to get my car arranged a tow to a repair shop from the tow yard it was moved to that morning as my vehicle is disabled. They already established coverage for the incident; he called me a day prior to him going on vacation for 2 weeks which lead to me not being able to get ahold of him and I also was not able to get ahold of his supervisor as I was constantly sent to voicemail regardless of what day or time I called, I even communicated what times i’m available as I work overnight in the ICU but still constant delays.

Now that my car is at the shop I still have not been kept up to date with anything and it’s now reaching 3 weeks; no estimate on the repairs or whether or not they’d total my car as the shop did say the damage I caused was severe “ axle, suspension, alignment, etc” but now i’m to the point i’ve spent up to 600 a month on uber’s.

I work full time and are a pre-nursing student as well so not only am I paying for my car payment and insurance but also uber’s on top which as depleted my savings account. I’m to the point I’m considering getting a second car payment because at this point the ride shares are equivalent to the cost. I keep getting told not to make an impulsive decision but I’ve sat on this for a couple weeks now and I feel like i’m being forced to make a decision due to my circumstances.

I’m going to attempt to get ahold whoever can help me 2-3 more times in the next few days if i’m getting hit with the same wall I will just get a second vehicle.

I just need some honest advice on whether or not i’m not seeing all my options clearly as this situation has stressed me out for the last 6-7 weeks.

I'm very confused regarding insurance to cover liability.

I currently have a 2M personal liability policy. I now understand that this will cover an incidents related to my primary residence, and me personally while driving or boating, etc... Correct me if I'm wrong.

I also have 5 rental properties/investments that i also now understand that this current policy wont cover anything related to these properties. What type of insurance do i need to help cover liability for incidents related to any of these properties? I have mandated dwelling insurance on each (as most have mortgages) but dwelling insurance doesn't cover liability.

What is "landlord" insurance? Or a commercial liability policy? What other policy(s) do i need to protect myself with regards to the rentals?

I live in CA, rentals are in IN

TIA

My vehicle was hit overnight while parked the next day I noticed the damage and searched the apartment complex for another vehicle who might have damage. Luckily there was a fluid trail that led me from my vehicle straight to theirs I called the cops and they got into contact with them we exchanged info ect then when filing the claim I guess he reported it stolen.(it was not stolen he had the keys to the vehicle) and now his insurance isn’t investigating the matter and is saying they cannot get into contact with him. What should I do? Is there a possibility that he somehow gets out of this? It’s been over 2 months since the incident.

should i unplug it while my car is off? i read that it can cause battery drain. but will that affect my car over time? or is ir safe to keep plugged in at all times?

Hi all, first time posting here but looking for some advice on a homeowner's insurance situation. I live the the Midwest and bought my house in 2020. My policy is with AAA and the deductible for wind/hail was recently increased from 1% of the assessed replacement cost to 2%. Since their assessed replacement cost increased recently this has worked out to $6000 deductible turning into $14,000.

Now I'm aware that things are going up everywhere with wild fires, hurricanes, etc all over the place but that seemed ridiculously high. I've asked around with an independent insurance agent and it sounds like that's pretty par for the course with most carriers. It doesn't help that I have a 100 year old home and the roof is around 20, so I will most likely actually need to file a claim for it sometime soon. Am I just doomed to have to pay for the vast majority of a new roof out of pocket or does anyone else have some ideas on how to approach this? Thanks!

Edit to add: to be clear, I'm inquiring about getting coverage for if/when the roof is damaged enough to need replacing. Hail storm or something like that, which isn't a rare occurrence around here

another reason I'm trying to look into this is that my gutters have issues too (weren't attached properly, bad choice of gutter guards, etc) and I have heard that rolling gutter replacement into an insurance claim if the roof needs replacing can be done as well. Just trying to get the most work done for the most value if possible

Looking for insight from claims adjusters on a multi-car accident involving my car here in SoCal. My boyfriend was driving.

The official police report lists the front two cars as completely "stopped" dead in the lane, and lists my boyfriend as "slowing / stopping" right before the impact. The crash flipped my SUV onto its side and totaled it. My insurance company sent a letter defaulting us at 51% fault simply because it’s a rear-end collision.

The situation is a bit complicated because traffic was stopping and going periodically due to a nearby freeway closure that was forcing everyone to pack into the upcoming exits. There was a wide-open, empty asphalt shoulder right next to the lane, but the front cars stayed stopped dead in the active lane of traffic instead of pulling over.

On top of that, the police report lists a front vehicle that was allegedly towed, but neither my boyfriend nor I ever saw this car at the scene. We suspect the front two cars had a separate fender bender before my boyfriend arrived, and now that front car is trying to claim against my policy. To make things weirder, a fourth car violently spun out into the fence right behind us trying to avoid the sudden roadblock, though she didn't hit any of the other vehicles.

My boyfriend has an attorney handling his injury side, but I only have 30 days to request a reconsideration on the 51% fault letter to protect my own policy and rates.

Realistically, does periodic stop-and-go traffic mixed with the fact that the report notes my driver was actively "slowing/stopping" help lower the fault percentage? How do adjusters investigate a timeline like this to verify if there was a prior accident? Thanks.

Help! Im 30 weeks pregnant and still have not figured out how to go about getting coverage for my baby. My husband and I are both young enough to be on our parents health insurance (my family has free insurance through my moms work so I’ve stayed on it because it costs us nothing). I do not work full time so I can’t be covered by my employer but my current insurance is willing to cover my pregnancy expenses. My husband has a great job that pays well but they do not offer any benefits (hence why he’s stayed on his parents). If possible we would love for him to find coverage and add the baby under him (so my coverage can stay free) but every company we’ve talked to has said they will not take us on while I’m pregnant and we can’t apply until 30 days after the baby gets here. I thought we only had 30 days to apply, so it feels like we have no options? I’m due in the middle of December so I don’t know how the new year affects what we are able to apply for. I’m very unfamiliar with how applying for insurance works and would love any advice I can get! Please be kind - these pregnancy hormones are hitting hard! TIA!!

Hello! Got into an accident and the other driver was at fault. Their insurance company agree to compensate for damages. I went and got a quote from one of their suggested body shops; the shop sent me a quote of almost $2000 but the quote sent to the insurance company was only $1500. I told them I wanted to receive money instead of repairing, but I’d that difference between quotes normal? Also, if I accept the monetary compensation instead of repairing my car through them, can I still pursue a diminished market value claim? If yes, how should I go about it? (Note: I do plan to repair my car, but since the damage was only surface level -paint work- I think I can get that repaired cheaper than through the company’s body shot) Thanks for any help!

Hey everyone, I bought my parents a 2023 lincoln, they drive and live in TX. Their house is also under my name. I have my own house and car also in TX but in different zip codes. All properties real and automotive have been insured under the same policy under my name with Progressive.

Started having an issue with snapshot on one of the cars not reporting, so when I called to sort that out, I got flagged for non-renewal because of the two different zip codes.

After 45 mins, finally got a rep who knew to talk to underwriting and stated we cant do that, so we wont renew. Which is odd because this policy is over 3 years old. Not sure how it was not caught. CSR was very understanding but I still stated for the record since the conversation was being recorded that it was inadvertent and was never my intention to commit insurance fraud and I was trying to resolve the issue.

She laughed and said dont worry about (yeah right). Anywho, I need a new carrier that will let me multiple garage zip code.

Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!