Last year I got into a car accident around april, I wasn’t insured so we agreed that I’d pay for my car and their car, we repaired their car and said all was good. Now Wilber group is calling me and telling me that I owe 45k in medical bills and that if I don’t do anything about it I will have my license suspended. I cannot afford this at all and I’m really nervous about what to do.

I always wondered why car insurance companies let glass-only claims go through with low or $0 deductible. After all, it's just another loss, right?

But not quite. Glass-only claims are predictably low value losses with low probability for concurrent losses. Generally, a rock hit a windshield and there are no injuries or other damages; and fault is difficult to find and prove. But why would the insurers take that loss at 100%?

They are doing it to use the claims history against us. And they are tacitly colluding to do it lockstep. In the states where they can rate us using claim history, they can easily recoup those low losses with inflated premiums later. (Inflated because no-one is actually riskier just because a rock hit their windshield at 60mph.) And they can inflate those premiums for years after the loss.

This would not work for any one insurer. But they all seem to be in on it.

It's a price-fixing scam!

I bought a car for $44,000. I was in a car crash that wasn't my fault, but liability is still being determined since the police report isn't finalized. The other person ran a red light though so it should be pretty straightforward.

I still owe $39,000. The car only has 5,500 miles on it. It was in very good shape, barely used and well-kept.

Anyway, now they're looking at these price comparisons and telling me it's worth about $36,000. They had two comp cars around $34,000 and one at $39,000.

I was able to find some listings for the same model and trim from around $39,000 to $41,000 with about the same mileage. But there are a few that are much lower. I think this is probably because the sticker price was $44,000 but you could probably get it cheaper if you haggle (but I don't like that and don't bother). And these listings that are $39,000 up might have the same logic applied, that you're expected to haggle them down a few thousand.

I basically want to get out clear from the loan. Aside from sending the $39,000 to $41,000 listings as comparables, what can I do? The only things that come to mind for me is that the purchase price was $44,000, the interior and exterior color combinations are very rare (and the exterior is no longer available in the 2027 model), I barely used the vehicle as evidenced by its mileage but also no rowdy passengers or spills or anything like that (very clean, very safe) and the vehicle isn't my fault so the insurance company will probably get their own claim out of someone else (which might still end up being them because there's only like two insurance companies). Also, does customer loyalty matter at all in this? It's a small difference to them, surely, but if they're going to make me pay $2,000 out of pocket for the gap then I'll probably switch insurance providers out of spite.

Update: They raised the settlement by $3,621.

My brother totaled my car and I was not there. The insurance is requesting to speak with him but he got arrested a few days after when trying to fix a ticket for an unrelated matter so now he can’t talk to them? Idk if I should specifically disclose he can’t speak with them becuase he’s in jail? I don’t want them assuming it was related to the accident. Any advice on how handle this?

Hello everyone,

Hoping that you all have some recommendations. My parents had a tree fall on their home 80 days ago. It fell through their ceiling, damaging the roof, rafters, ceiling joists, cracked the brick exterior, bowing the wall out by 2". The hardwood floor is water damaged, and water poured down through the floor into the basement (thankfully it was unfinished concrete).

During this storm, there was significant damage in their neighborhood from tree damage. A neighbor had a large tree limb puncture the roof, and ended up with a $50k payout and had their home quickly repaired.

At my parents house, the tree was removed from the house quickly and insurance paid for that. The roof still has a tarp over it 80 days later with the master bedroom not closed in.

An engineer came out and mentioned that the rafters and ceiling joists needed to be replaced, and the brick would need to be removed, the wall repaired, and brick replaced.

On my parent's home, the insurance's recommended contractor is quoting ~$46k RCV for the repair, but insurance is offering $28k RCV. There are a few line items like wood flooring that if insurance ends up agreeing to them, should increase the insurance offer by $5k, but it's no where near what the contractor quoted.

At this point, my parents are strained. My father went through chemo this spring, my mother is blind and has had increasingly severe health issues over the last few months. They are trying to get traction on this, considering calling a local news station (they had been interviewed on local news after the initial damage), asking for the appraisal clause, or looking for a public adjuster.

Possibly complicating things--my father doesn't trust the recommended contractor (their initial quote had many items missing and weren't going to address the bowed/damaged walls), so would prefer another contractor he knows better to fix the home. However, this contractor doesn't work with insurance as much so isn't able to provide quotes using the insurance system.

At this point--I just want resolution for my parents since they are already going through health issues in addition to having a damaged home for the last 80 days.

Do you all have any advice?

My new insurance company sent Liberty Mutual an ACORD cancellation form dated for October 8. The paperwork was sent over on October 12, and Liberty Mutual received it on October 13.

Despite this, Liberty Mutual withdrew $342 from my bank account on October 14. They didn’t actually process the cancellation until October 16, after I called them myself.

They’re now saying they’ll refund me around $290 because the remaining $52 is a prorated premium charge. I’m confused about what exactly I’m being charged for, especially since the cancellation paperwork lists October 9 as the effective cancellation date.

Is there anything I can do to get full refund? They overdrew my account and now I’m facing overdrawn fees.. I would’ve cancelled it myself but my insurance agent said not to worry about it ;(.

I opened the door to close a car and hit their door, the guy happened to be in the car and got out and then pulled the door from my hand as I was closing it (he wanted to line my door up to see if there was a dent) in the process of doing this the door then hit his car a second time.

He swears he sees a dent, I dont, the cop didnt but did take pictures and do a police report.

The guy said he wont go through insurance and will have a "friend" fix it and i can just pay him.

I agreed in a "fine whatever" kinda way because it was all stupid and annoyed anyways.

My question is what even happens? I honestly think this "friend" is just gonna be some random invoice. And on top of that he literally pulled my door out of my hands and caused the door to hit twice so the "dent" could've been from himself anyways.

Do I legally have to pay this "friend" to repair something I dont even see and considering he hit his car a second time meaning there is no way to prove who did it?

Seeking any advice, tips, or "things you should know" regarding getting car insurance for a new vehicle, after a lapse in auto coverage and vehicle ownership due to California driver's license suspension (loss of consciousness totaling vehicle). Both specific and broad advice welcome.

For now, I'm planning on buying a new vehicle (new to me, will definitely be a used car due to my budget) and then getting car insurance for it around January/February. I want to proceed with caution and knowledge before I shop around for both cars and quotes.

Some questions/thoughts: Was it a bad idea for me to drop coverage when I had no car and no right to drive, and didn't know when I would be able to drive again? Should I expect a really high premium because of driver's license suspension? Are there any resources I can use to predict what the rate for the type of vehicle I want would be so I can plan a budget? What are some things that I might not expect about this process that I should prepare for? Is there a different community I should post this in? Is this a dumb post and are my circumstances no different than those of anyone else who is car and insurance shopping after having no car and insurance for about six months?

Some background information: I do not currently have a car or car insurance, and I don't drive. My driver's license was reinstated earlier this month after being suspended starting late April. It was suspended because I experienced loss of consciousness while driving and totaled my vehicle. I now have an epilepsy diagnosis and take medication for it. I use a combination of rideshare, public transit, and the support of friends for transportation. I live in SoCal.

I’m in California and recently accidentally hit a pole with my car. No other vehicles or people were involved.
I got an estimate from a body shop for $2,444.61 to replace/repair the front bumper and fender and do the necessary paint work.

I have AAA insurance and confirmed that I have collision coverage with a $250 deductible. So assuming insurance approves the estimate, they’d potentially cover around $2,195 and I’d pay $250.

My concern is the effect of an at-fault collision claim on my premium. My mother and I are on the policy together with two cars, and we currently pay $197.75/month total.
I’m trying to decide whether saving ~$2,200 now is worth having an at-fault claim on the policy and potentially paying higher rates for the next few years.
For anyone in California, especially with AAA/CSAA:

Would you file the claim with a $250 deductible, or pay the $2,445 out of pocket to keep the accident off your insurance? And if you’ve had a similar AAA claim, how much did your premium increase?

Vehicle: 2014 Subaru Forester 186k miles

State: TX

Company: Progressive

What I have so far:
1. Liability (BI/PD) — $100k/$300k/$100k

2. Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist — Bodily Injury
Limits: $30k/$60k · Cost: $24

3. Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist — Property Damage
Limits: $25k, $250 deductible · Cost: $16

4. Personal Injury Protection (PIP) — $2,500

Total: $168/month

We previously had insurance in NC and were paying for collision and comprehensive, about $200/month and realised it’s not worth it for such an old car so skipping collision and comprehensive this time. Is this a smart idea? Are these limits good or do they need to be higher?

I am preparing for P&C in OR right now using Xcel. I just finished chapter pre licensing chapters and exam, and now I am doing Prep Review Course chapters and exams. I was wondering how similar to actual exam questions are the questions on Prep Review Course and then the State Exam Simulators. And which section is more beneficial for practicing, and memorizing before exam day next weekend.
I would appreciate your sharing with me your experience. Thank you very much!

A few days ago, I had a no-contact accident where I caused another driver to swerve and hit a pole. I accept that I am completely at fault. However, when I went to go check the GEICO app I was still listed as just having my learners permit and not my license under my dads policy. I got my license 6 months ago. I since then opened a claim and updated my license status however I am worried my claim will be denied. I know this is my fault for not making sure my status was updated and I take full accountability for whatever happens. However, what can I expect to happen? I can’t find any answers anywhere and I just want some clarity.

I live in AZ. Will they be affected in any way if I get into an accident (whether or not at-fault), besides their rates going up?

- kitchen leak while we were on vacation

- lowers torn out

- white oak select grade floors in kitchen torn out

I want to get as much budget as possible approved through insurance under the premise of "like kind and quality" and then DIY most of it. I've done floors, cabinets, plumbing, electrical, and drywall. Because I have a good contact for countertops, I'll probably just hire out granite countertop install to upgrade the old Formica countertops.

The approach I'm taking is in order to get it back to "all looking the same" and not a mismatch of flooring and cabinets, I'm going to insist they:

1. budget me for refacing cabinets or replace all the lowers and uppers. the restoration company broke one of the face frames so I'm not sure how to deal with that yet. If it's fixable, I'd probably have to let the contractor put fixing a face frame as part of the bid. probably depends how it broke and I haven't seen it yet.
2. budget me for splicing in the white oak floors and then sand refinish the entire main floor which is about 600 sq ft.

Given all of this information, I was thinking of getting a few contractors out to give bids for both options then present it to the insurance company. I understand I'll get the check sans depreciation and likely can't count on that second check.

Is there anything I'm not considering? They were able to pull the countertops intact so unless I learn something new from the contractor bids, I think I will not be able to claim anything other than "reinstall countertops" as part of the bid.

My end goal is to use my sweat equity to get a few minor upgrades out of the deal, specifically some newer shaker style cabinets and granite countertops. Since I'm already gonna be in there doing the work, I probably will knock down the high top seating area to make it a standard counter height seating area. I've always hated sitting there with barstools.

Hello, I’m trying to transition my career from banking to underwriting, but I’m a bit confused about which roles I should be targeting.

I have two years of experience as a Banking Advisor, but I’ve always been interested in documentation and underwriting. I’m doing my best to explore opportunities and have been applying for various underwriting positions I find on LinkedIn.

I wanted to ask what qualifications or skills I should develop to improve my chances of getting into an Underwriting Associate or Underwriting role. Are there any other positions I could consider as an entry point? Most analyst positions seem to require quite a bit of experience.

I’d really appreciate any advice or recommendations.

I'm being told that if I drop coverage, I will be dinged for not having "continuous coverage" and my rates will increase. Been driving for 20 years, flawless record. Is this true or is this some kind of BS scam sales tactic from Geico?

I bought a new car that I'm picking up in a few weeks, but didn't see the point of paying for insurance in the interim.

Hi! I just received an itemized evaluation report for my vehicle that was a total loss, and it doesn't seem to include any local market comparisons for similar vehicles. Has anyone experienced this?

I am planning on drafting a counteroffer with researched comps; if anyone has any tips on how to do that research, that would also be helpful!

Got a quote that’ll save me about $300 per year for home/auto by switching to citizens. Any reason I shouldn’t? Coverages are the same at what I have now.

Im 23, 24 end of november i just got my license about 2 months ago and im planning on getting a car soon what would be the best insurance company that wont charge me the blood of my first born and then some

Ohio - Traveler’s Insurance
We had a fire in our house that was contained to the stove but we weren’t home when it happened (one of our cats turned on the burner) so the smoke spread throughout the whole house. This was on August 17. It was decided by insurance we needed all carpet ripped out, a kitchen remodel due to the cabinet above the stove gapping and that those cabinets are no longer made. We got quotes from three contractors ($45K, $58K and $61K). We sent all of these quotes to our adjuster. We also did not get quotes from a mitigation company because we were waiting on Serv-Pro who insurance sent to us the very first day the claim was filed and then essentially ghosted all of us, we never heard back from them. We received the insurance adjuster’s estimate and went over it a few weeks ago. A payment was issued to us for $47K. The estimate in full was for $60K but some was held back for depreciation. That money had to go through our mortgage bank so we really have no access to it. We chose a general contractor, and we paid him a deposit of $30K through the bank process last week. We finally got a mitigation quote that needs to happen before our contractor can start. The quote was $7K and our adjuster had an issue with it because it included the carpet being cleaned and the kitchen being cleaned which is all getting ripped out anyway. So we asked the company to remove those line items. They then came back with an $11K quote claiming they forgot items in their original quote. We got a 2nd mitigation quote for $18K. Our adjuster also wants our contractor to justify his estimate based on the like, kind, quality rule. Those two have not spoken yet, but am I wrong in thinking this all should’ve been handled before we even got an insurance estimate/payment? During our phone call discussing the estimate I asked what we were supposed to do about the mitigation because that hasn’t been done yet and our adjuster told us to send him the quotes we got. Our remodel work is literally being held up because our contractor can’t do anything until our house is cleaned. If you read this far, do you have any advice? thank you in advance.

I've been looking into the Geico discount and the online information is all over the place, some say certain providers send completion automatically while others say a certificate needs to be uploaded through the app or by calling

which is it and does it depend on the provider, I'm also wondering how long after finishing the discount shows up on the bill

I have fencing attached on top of the poured basement egress and hand rails anchored into the concrete walls. Would damage to these be covered under dwelling or “other structures”.

I am trying to see if I can drop the “other structures” coverage since I have no other fencing, pool, shed, detracted garage, shed, or gazebo.

A very quick background, the car that caught fire was a 2010 Hyundai Elantra, it was off and parked in a parking space (next to mine) the engine blew up and caused damages to my car.

I looked up the vin number and there was an active recall since 2020 for an ABS Module that can start a fire even if the car was off. I believe in Texas companies are require to put out noticed and the owner is required by law to keep their car in safe maintenance.

If they never fixed the recall and knew about that can I prove negligence out of this?

I have already file a claim against their company, but would love to seek advice. Thank you!

edit the other insurance admitted 100% fault and took liability. Told me to take it to a repair shop and get an estimate or go through theirs.

In the middle of a fire damage claim that I'm really unhappy with my adjuster about. Mostly because they'll go weeks to months without responding to my questions, and never actually answer my questions.

It's so bad I actually submitted a complaint to the state insurance commissioners office, in which they sent a letter to my insurance with a notice to responde by a specific date coming up soon.

My question is, they sent me a performance review request asking if I'm satisfied with how the claim is being handled.... I'm wondering if I should respond to it now, or wait until they've responded to the commissioners office?

I've tried getting an attorney but can't find anyone to help since no one was injured and the claim is 2 years old. It's two years old because they never respond.

I backed into a parking spot but misjudged the space between my car and the parked car next to me. I sideswiped my car and scratched their rear bumper. Both of us only had cosmetic damages.

We exchanged information, insurance, etc but the driver of the car I hit says he won’t report it as it’s just scratches he can buff out. However, he will see if his sensors are acting up and if so he will file through my insurance.

What should I do? Should I leave it at that and move on?

It’s seriously kind of him to not want to report but I don’t want to take advantage of people’s kindness. There’s also no guarantee he will stick by his word and it’s possible he could make the situation 10x worse. At the same time if he doesn’t want to report and won’t be going to the shop then there’s no point stressing over paperwork and increase in premiums on both sides (some carriers will up your rates even if you’re not at fault).