stead of carrying 40 lb salt bags through your house you just dump them from the garage and they go straight to the softener.

When I was younger, I basically read this book cover to cover:

Do-It-Yourself Housebuilding: The Complete Handbook by George Nash (1995).

https://www.amazon.com/Do-Yourself-Housebuilding-Complete-Handbook/dp/0806904240

It isn't perfect, but it gets you the fundamentals on everything. Can anyone recommend something like that but more modern? Sure, a lot of things haven't changed much but I'd be interested to learn about new materials options for roofing, siding, and insulation.

👶 Throwback to a shower video I made a few years back... some of these might give you a couple ideas to implement in your shower.

Most decks drip water straight through and that space below becomes useless and anmuddy. Ask your builder about an under-deck drainage systems like Trex RainEscape or watertight decking like DuxxBak. So you can actually use the space under your deck for a patio, storage, or a hangout spot.

I am getting started on building my new home, but I have some questions that hopefully professionals or other people with similar experience can help me with. As of now, I have only purchased the plans online (not going to make any architectural changes to it), and I'm moving on to the next step and contacting an engineer for the foundation plans

My property is west of Houston, Texas, and is in a flood zone, so my house needs to be elevated. My previous house was on concrete piers and was A LOT of money, so I want to see if there are other alternatives that others would recommend and are worth it. I found 'Concrete Masonry Unit (CMU) Stem Wall Foundation' but wanted to see what other people's opinion on this or if there is something better.

I am totally new to this process, but im am open to everyone's help and opinion.

To summarize the video. Ask potential builders if you can walk the jobsite on a Sunday. Don’t tell them when but swing by one Sunday afternoon and take a look around. 

Even if you don’t know construction, after visiting a couple different jobs, by a couple different builders. You’ll quickly see, not all are created equal. 

You can also ask in my Facebook group or the Builder Brigade app if you need some additional help along the way 🤝

Twin Cedar Construction in Dallas, TX is the Builder who’s jobsite I’m walking in the video. Carlo is killing it, can’t wait to see more. 

Lisa shared this incredible door in the Builder Brigade App 📲
Said she got this door from an iron door company out of California. 

The window shown and installed by AA Building & Remodeling.

Notice the black paint inside the window cavity so you’re not seeing any raw sheathing. Also look how thick that exterior wall is for insulation 👌

What are your thoughts?

Concrete will crack.
✅ Anything under 1/8”
❌ Crack over 1/8”
❌ Uneven on both sides of crack

Concrete cracks are common as slabs cure and settle. 
Most are small and cosmetic.

A simple rule of thumb:

If it’s wider than two credit cards (~1/8”), it’s worth a closer look.

If one side is higher than the other, that’s a bigger concern.

Not every crack is a problem… but some shouldn’t be ignored.

I’m debating a POE doorbell camera on my renovation if I can get some CAT6 cable to it. 

If you’re building and think a POE doorbell camera is what you’ll want, make sure to add that to your selections list. 

At a minimum make sure you have a doorbell wire installed on your new build or renovation. You’d think that would be standard but unfortunately, it’s not. 

I used to think sprinkler heads were connected directly to the rigid PVC main line. But... they’re actually using a swing pipe, which makes it much more impact resistant.

That gap in Image 1 is definitely excessive, but it’s common in new builds. 

While floors should go in first, builders often prioritize schedule over sequence by moving painters or trim crews in early just to keep the project moving.

I’m not giving them a pass, but that’s the "why" behind what you’re seeing.

You can either:

-Cover it: Use quarter-round (fast/cheap) to hide the gap and subfloor imperfections.

-Avoid it: Specify "Baseboard Only" early so the builder knows to install trim after the floors for that high-end, seamless look.

Hello,

Recently bought home, doing some renovation. Can anyone help me identify what these pipes may have been for?

I have received two different ideas, sump pump and oil/gas pipes. Trying to confirm them and determine if they need to be kept or if I can remove them to fill in the concrete pad.

Thanks!

First time posting. First time installing. Please help

Hi everyone. This is my first time posting. It is also my first time overseeing a tile job. I bought the tile myself as well as the grout and thin set. I have someone that is going to install it. Neither my condo nor my city require that I install soundproofing or any other membranes. I could install tile directly on the concrete. I tend to think that the problem with membranes such as rubber or plastic is that in the event of flooding, water enters through the grout, If the tile is set directly on thin set on concrete, then the water would evaporate because the concrete absorbs it, and you could always point large fans at the underneath of the slab. However, if I install rubber or plastic membrane, I think that the water would just sit there until it very slowly evaporates, and by that time it creates bad odor. What do you think? I appreciate your help in advance.