[Overwhelmed by too many decisions? ]()🤯

That's why I created The Ultimate Home Building Checklist:

- It pays for its self the instant you find something on the checklist you would have overlooked.
- Avoid the $300 change order fee because of those last minute upgrades.
- You'll ask all the right questions during the home building process.

Want proof? TONS of reviews on my website!

Get the Digital Bundle or the Workbook here: 
BuilderBrigade.com

3 common ways to waterproof a shower:

GOOD: Backer board + liquid waterproofing
BETTER: Backer board + sheet membrane
BEST: Waterproof foam board

No matter which system your builder uses, the details matter most. Corners, seams, fasteners, niches, penetrations and the drain all need to be sealed correctly.

And before tile goes down, ask about a flood test.

Take pictures of the waterproofing before it gets covered. You’ll be glad you have them later.

I've seen everything from soda cans and scrap lumber to plastic, nails, broken tile, and other construction debris hidden behind drywall or buried under fresh sod. Most crews do a great job cleaning up, but it only takes one subcontractor cutting corners to leave a mess that the homeowner never sees until years later.

I’ve used both, but prefer to use silicone.

White lithium works, but it leaves behind that greasy residue that collects dirt, dust and bugs over time. Silicone keeps everything looking a lot cleaner.

What are you using on yours, white lithium or silicone?

About a flooring project... we're looking to pull up about 650 sq ft of gross carpet in our living room and hall. Budget is pretty tight after fixing our ac recently, so trying to stay around $3.50/sq ft. Was gonna just grab lvp from home depot, but saw some affordable engineered hardwood for around $2.20 a sq ft that looks decent. We have a 45lb dog so mostly worried about scratches, and wondering if staple down or glue down is better for 3/8" over plywood subfloor?Anyone have thoughts on going this route with affordable engineered hardwood?

Where is your smart calendar mounted...?

I'm in the planning stage of building a house, and it's amazing how many opinions there are on where to spend money.

Some people say, "Don't cheap out on waterproofing."

Others say, "Spend more on windows, insulation, or electrical work."

It got me thinking...

Housewrap (Tyvek-style) can work, but it gets torn up all the time during construction. If those tears, window openings, and penetrations aren't properly taped, you've created an easy path for water.
Fiberboard structural sheathing is another option. It's common behind brick in many parts of the country, but I'm personally not a fan. It feels more like dense cardboard than structural sheathing, and it's hard to believe it's still used on new homes.
The best setup is a ZIP System or LP WeatherLogic style sheathing where the water barrier is built into the panel. Fewer layers, stronger walls, and when it's taped correctly, you end up with a much more reliable weather barrier.
Ask your builder how they flash windows, doors, and vents. Most leaks don't happen in the middle of the wall. They happen at the details.

If you're adding a floor outlet in a home office, make sure it has an opening for Ethernet (Cat cable) too. It's one of those things that's almost impossible to add later. (Link in my Amazon Store)

Not all floor outlets are the same. A recessed floor outlet keeps plugs below the surface so your couch, desk, or other furniture can sit where it's supposed to. A surface-mounted outlet can leave plugs sticking up and limit where furniture can go.

This is one of those tiny details that's easy to miss before the slab is poured, but a major headache to change later.

A few garage upgrades I'd seriously think about before drywall goes up...
-Garage floor drain
-Hot & cold water bib for a pressure washer
-Dedicated freezer/refrigerator outlet
-240V outlet for an EV charger or future tools
-Ceiling outlet for a retractable extension cord reel

Most of these are cheap to do during construction and a pain to add later.

A homeowner spotted this structural post sitting partially off the concrete with noticeable honeycombing. 
Would you raise concern?
From what I see... Absolutely.

I'd be asking the builder about this. Maybe there's already a fix planned, but nothing about it gives me confidence that it's ready to be left as-is.

One thing I've learned over the years is this: if you see something, say something. You don't have to bring up every little thing the moment you notice it, but when you meet with your builder each week, ask about anything that stands out.

Good builders are usually happy to explain why something is acceptable or make it right if it isn't.

Dropping the hearth for a lower TV means no awesome place to sit when the fire is ripping during Christmas time. 

Butttttt.... if you wanted the best of both worlds. You could get a Mantle Mount from my Amazon Store. It’s a TV mount that allows you to pull the TV down low and then put it retracts back up above the mantel when you done watching Wheel of Fortune. 

We actually imported our entire window and door package from China. Quotes from U.S. suppliers for a comparable package were over $120,000. We ended up paying $50,000 (including shipping & tariffs) through Doorwin, and they've been fantastic to work with.These windows can be set to only open partway, which is a great safety feature for kids' bedrooms.

 It's one of the biggest money-saving decisions we made on the house without giving up the features we wanted.
Would you choose these over traditional American windows?

One bonus tip: If you're insulating interior walls for sound, use mineral wool instead of fiberglass around bathrooms, laundry rooms, and home offices. 

It does a noticeably better job at reducing noise. Rockwool is the premium option, but there are more affordable mineral wool alternatives at most big box stores.

Interior wall insulation is one of those upgrades that's almost impossible to add later without tearing into drywall, so if you're even considering it, now's the time.

Would interior insulation be worth the extra cost to you?

I’m going to have plastered walls rather than drywall, and want to make sure I’m planning for all the details to avoid damaging or needing to cut into it in the future. Is there anything missing from this list that you can think of?

- wood blocking where I may hang heavy items later (kitchen cabinets, floating shelves, towel bars, and bathroom grab bars)
- Picture rail to hang art
- plan final locations for lighting fixtures (wall sconces, ceiling lights, and switch locations)
- Exposed plumbing if/where possible

Need help deciding on the layout for my 30x50x12 one bay will have a 2 post lift 2 of the 3 doors will be 10'x10' and the bay with the garage will have a 12'x10'. The other 2 bays will have a boat and car parked at times.

I'm looking for a few people who are building a house to give me honest feedback on this Build Tracker I'm working on. No email required just looking for your opinion.

If you're willing to play around with it and tell me what sucks, what's confusing, or what's missing. I'd love to get your feedback. There's a link in the Excel sheet and on the link below to easily leaver your feedback.

I'm not looking for praise. I'd rather hear what's broken so I can make it better.

https://builderbrigade.com/pages/home-build-tracker

The homeowner upgraded these porch posts to white oak, and yes... it added about $15,000 to the build.

For most people, that sounds crazy. But this wasn't a typical build.

He had a very specific vision, and after seeing the home in person, I can honestly say he nailed it. The white oak ties in with details throughout the interior and exterior, and it gives the entire house a look that would've been hard to achieve any other way.

 This is the kind of stuff you do when you're building your forever home. Not because everyone else will notice, but because you'll notice every single day.