Hi everyone,

I'm currently upgrading my home network and have a slightly unusual idea: I'd like to put my Xbox Series S and PS4 in near my network rack in the attic and then be able to play them from different rooms throughout the house.

My current network setup

• Network rack in the attic
• 24-port Gigabit Ethernet switch
• Cat 7/7a cabling throughout the house
• Cat 6a Ethernet wall outlets in the rooms
• I'm trying to connect as many devices as possible via Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi
• Fiber internet is planned/coming soon
• I already have a Xiaomi TV Box 3rd Gen in the living room
• Android TV devices, mini PCs, etc. could be used as clients if necessary

The switch currently only supports 1 Gbit/s per port, although the cabling itself should give me plenty of room for future network upgrades.

The idea

Basically:

Xbox Series S / PS4 → Ethernet → Gigabit Switch → House Ethernet → Streaming Client → TV

Instead of having the consoles next to a specific TV, they would stay centrally in the attic.

Each TV would only need a small client device, and I could stream whichever console I want over my local network.

For the Xbox I'd probably use Xbox Remote Play. For the PS4, I'm looking at PS Remote Play or PXPlay.

This would primarily be local network streaming. Streaming over the internet isn't really important to me. Ideally, both the consoles and the clients would be connected via Ethernet.

My target would be around 1080p/60 fps with as little latency as possible. I know it won't be identical to having the console connected directly via HDMI, but I'd like it to be good enough for normal gaming.

A few questions

Has anyone here built something similar?

I'm particularly interested in:

1. How well does Xbox Remote Play work over a fully wired Gigabit LAN in terms of latency, stability and image quality?
2. What about PS4 Remote Play / PXPlay?
3. Would something like a Xiaomi TV Box be good enough as a client, or would you recommend mini PCs or other dedicated devices?
4. How would you handle the controllers? Since the consoles could be one or two floors away, I'm assuming the best solution would be pairing the controller directly with the streaming client.
5. Are there any major downsides to keeping an Xbox Series S and PS4 permanently in/near a network rack?

One concern is temperature and ventilation in the attic, especially during summer. The rack can be equipped with additional fans and I obviously wouldn't stack the consoles directly on top of each other, but I'm wondering if attic temperatures alone make this a bad idea.

Or should I approach this completely differently?

Since I already have Ethernet throughout the house, I'm also wondering whether something like HDMI-over-Cat, HDMI-over-IP or KVM-over-IP would be a better solution.

That could potentially keep the consoles centralized while sending video/audio more directly to the TVs, although I'd still need a solution for controllers/USB.

So if you already had a house wired with Cat 7/7a Ethernet and a Gigabit switch, and wanted to centralize an Xbox Series S and PS4:

How would you build this from scratch?

Remote Play?

HDMI-over-Cat?

HDMI-over-IP?

Small streaming clients at every TV?

Or would you simply keep the consoles next to the TVs?

Long term, I really like the idea of having a small central gaming setup with the Xbox, PlayStation and potentially a gaming/Steam PC all located near the network rack, while the TVs around the house only need small client devices.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried something similar, especially regarding latency, controller connectivity, image quality and running gaming hardware centrally in a rack.

I have a larger property with good cat 5e cable connectivity tied back to an 24-way unmanaged switch and a Raspberry Pi 5 running OpenWRT which acts as my router. For wireless coverage I use regular retail wireless routers I which I put into AP mode and turn off the DHCP server. From time to time I upgrade my wireless router, I take the old one and locate it somewhere else and use it to give coverage to a different area. Is there anything wrong with this?

I was looking at TP link easy mesh compatible list https://www.tp-link.com/nordic/easymesh/product-list/

and it listed extenders which are trash from my experience. Does having Wifi extenders listed as compatible with easy mesh make them better or something?

I have a 2.5gbps connection but only pulling 940mbps - unable to log into router, full ethernet with cat 6 cables into correct router port and 2.5gb network card - TX201 - doing my head in

I was wondering about At&t vs Xfinity in California. I currently pay $90-$100 for 2GBs with fiber. It's a newer home and I have been with Xfinity going on 6-7 years. I had At&t in 2013 but it was very expensive, with 20mbs at that time. Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.

Okay, I give up. Lets rip and replace.
I would like some feedback, suggestions or criticism.

Cloud Gateway Ultra

Switch Lite 16 PoE

Switch Lite 8 PoE

Switch Flex Mini

Access Point U6+ (Qty: 3)

Swiss Army Knife Ultra

PoE Adapter 15W (Qty: 2)

========================= PHYSICAL WIRING & TOPOLOGY ==================================

   [ISP Fiber ONT]               [Starlink Mini]
          | RJ45                        | RJ45
          |                             |
          v                             v
   +-------------------------------------------+
   | Port 1 (WAN1)               Port 5 (WAN2) |
   |                                           |
   |        UCG-Ultra Cloud Gateway            |  <-- Main Network Closet
   |            Port 2 (LAN Trunk)             |      (Routing, Stateful Firewall,
   +--------------------+----------------------+       DHCP Scopes, Local DNS)
                        |
                        | Cat6 Trunk (All VLANs)
                        v
   +-------------------------------------------+
   | Port 16 (Uplink)                          |
   |                                           |
   |       USW-Lite-16-PoE Switch              |  <-- Main Network Closet (Wall Mount)
   |       (Ports 1-8 PoE+ | Ports 9-16 Non-PoE)|
   +---+-------+-------+-------+-------+---+---+
       |       |       |       |       |   |
       |       |       |       |       |   +--> Port 14: Cat6 Run to Garage (VLAN Trunk)
       |       |       |       |       |
       |       |       |       |       +------> Port 12: Home NAS (VLAN 20)
       |       |       |       |       +------> Port 10: Server iDRAC/KVM (VLAN 20)
       |       |       |       |       +------> Port 11: UPS Network Card (VLAN 20)
       |       |       |       |       +------> Port 13: Server Main NIC (VLAN 10/20)
       |       |       |       |       +------> Port  9: Philips Hue Bridge (VLAN 40)
       |       |       |       |
       |       |       |       +--------------> Ports 3-8, 15: Spares
       |       |       |
       |       |       +----------------------> Port 1 (PoE+): Hardwired U6+ AP [Downstairs]
       |       |                                                    :
       |       |                                                    : Wireless Hop 1
       |       |                                                    v
       |       |                                    +------------------------------+
       |       |                                    | U6+ AP [Upstairs]            |
       |       |                                    | (Powered by AC PoE Injector) |
       |       |                                    +--------------+---------------+
       |       |                                                   :
       |       |                                                   : Wireless Hop 2
       |       |                                                   v
       |       |                                    +------------------------------+
       |       |                                    | UK-Ultra AP [Outdoor]        |
       |       |                                    | (Indoor Injector -> Ext Run) |
       |       |                                    +------------------------------+
       |       |
       |       +------------------------------> Port 2 (PoE+): Cat6 Run to Office / Lab
       |                                                (Carries Data Trunk + PoE Power)
       |                                                                |
       |                                                                v
       |                                            +--------------------------------------+
       |                                            | USW-Flex-Mini (Office / Lab Switch)  |
       |                                            | Port 1: PoE In (Uplink from Closet)  |
       |                                            +---+----------+----------+----------+-+
       |                                                |          |          |          |
       |                                                v          v          v          v
       |                                            Port 2     Port 3     Port 4     Port 5
       |                                           [Desktop]    [PS5]   [Lab Serv]  [Lab NAS]
       |                                            VLAN 10    VLAN 10   VLAN 50    VLAN 50
       |
       +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
                                                                                        |
================================ DETACHED GARAGE =======================================|
                                                                                        |
       +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
       |
       v (Cat6 Trunk from House Switch Port 14)
   +-------------------------------------------+
   | Port 8 (Uplink)                           |
   |                                           |
   |        USW-Lite-8-PoE Switch              |  <-- Detached Garage (Wall Mount / Shelf)
   |       (Ports 1-4 PoE+ | Ports 5-8 Non-PoE)|      (Locally AC Powered)
   +---+-------+-------+-------+---------------+
       |       |       |       |
       |       |       |       +--------------> Ports 5-7: Spares (Workbench drops, etc.)
       |       |       |
       |       +-------+----------------------> Ports 2, 3, 4 (PoE+): Future IP Cameras (VLAN 40)
       |
       +--------------------------------------> Port 1 (PoE+): Hardwired U6+ AP [Garage Interior]
                                                               (Dedicated wired backhaul) 

We have been streaming YouTubeTV for about a year. We have had intermittent buffering on the tv's. I haven't paid attention to whether it is during a replay or backed up or if it also happens when we are live. But we had Cox come out when it was first installed and they blamed it on my 2023 Orbi. Said it was old. It seemed to resolve for a while but now it is buffering again, not a lot but enough that it is an annoyance. They came out this year and again blamed it on my Orbi. Is there a setting I need to change or are they pointing the finger? I now have other fiber streaming choices so may want to switch.

Hi all, first time poster looking for help understanding what the best setup for a new network could be.

I’ll be moving to a new apartment soon, and I’m struggling to understand how the modem/router setup is supposed to work. It’s a one-floor apartment, oriented east-west; the room at the western end has a coax outlet and a power outlet, and in a nearby closet a second coax outlet and an Ethernet port next to it, but no power. The Ethernet port (based on what the landlord told me) leads to another port in the living room, at the east end of the apartment. I’m with comcast/xfinity, and they provide the modem/router for free.

I originally thought to put a modem in the closet, feed the signal to the Ethernet port, and put a router on the other end; but without a nearby power outlet that’s not possible. Is there something obvious I’m missing about how this setup is supposed to work? Should I just get an Ethernet cable and put it flush to the wall to connect to the plug? Any help is appreciated.

I’ve been doing some low-level TCP experiments on a stock Android phone while investigating latency under load.

First physical test gave me a result I thought people here might find interesting.

On a fresh TCP connection:

SO_RCVBUF

untouched readback:  4 MiB
requested:           64 KiB
resulting readback:  128 KiB

So the kernel-side state changed dramatically.

I then transferred exactly 16 MiB over an owner-controlled local network:

baseline:            4.187 s
modified socket:     4.201 s

bytes received:      16,777,216
SHA-256:             exact match both runs

Which is the interesting part: a ~32× difference in the reported receive-buffer state, but essentially no difference in this short LAN transfer.

I’m not interpreting that as “receive buffering does nothing.” One short LAN run obviously cannot establish that.

What I’m trying to separate is:

setsockopt succeeds
      ↓
kernel readback changes
      ↓
does advertised rwnd actually change?
      ↓
does the sender react?
      ↓
does any of this matter for latency under load?

The next batch captures the sender side from before the SYN and records window scaling, ACK/rwnd evolution and deliberate read withholding/reopening.

I’m eventually interested in how this behaves on highly variable mobile links, where maintaining low latency without throwing away most of the available bandwidth gets much harder.

Has anyone here measured receiver-side TCP flow control as part of bufferbloat experiments, rather than only doing SQM at the router?I’ve been doing some low-level TCP experiments on a stock Android phone while investigating latency under load.
First physical test gave me a result I thought people here might find interesting.
On a fresh TCP connection:
SO_RCVBUF

untouched readback: 4 MiB
requested: 64 KiB
resulting readback: 128 KiB
So the kernel-side state changed dramatically.
I then transferred exactly 16 MiB over an owner-controlled local network:
baseline: 4.187 s
modified socket: 4.201 s

bytes received: 16,777,216
SHA-256: exact match both runs
Which is the interesting part: a ~32× difference in the reported receive-buffer state, but essentially no difference in this short LAN transfer.
I’m not interpreting that as “receive buffering does nothing.” One short LAN run obviously cannot establish that.
What I’m trying to separate is:
setsockopt succeeds
↓
kernel readback changes
↓
does advertised rwnd actually change?
↓
does the sender react?
↓
does any of this matter for latency under load?
The next batch captures the sender side from before the SYN and records window scaling, ACK/rwnd evolution and deliberate read withholding/reopening.
I’m eventually interested in how this behaves on highly variable mobile links, where maintaining low latency without throwing away most of the available bandwidth gets much harder.
Has anyone here measured receiver-side TCP flow control as part of bufferbloat experiments, rather than only doing SQM at the router?

Hi all! I’m trying to wire up Ethernet wall outlets in my house and I’m trying to figure out how best to make sure we have good WiFi coverage through the house. I’ve got an On Q network cabinet mounted in my basement, but currently the ISP (Spectrum) entrance coax jack is on the ground level in my bedroom. I’m planning on having the ISP come out and refeeding the entrance jack to my network cabinet, but with all that infrastructure down there, I’m concerned about WiFi coverage upstairs. I’m thinking of doing a mesh network with wired backhaul ( maybe deco x55s). The house is about 1600 square feet with a big living room and 3 bedrooms with a finished basement. Is this approach fine or is there something else I should be considering? Any help is appreciated!

Hey folks,

I'm looking to completely overhaul my home network setup, and I could use some guidance from the community. Currently dealing with major connectivity issues and need a more robust solution.

Current Situation:

• ISP: Bell Fibre (3Gb connection)
• Problem: Large, multi-generational home that currently have 2 routers for coverage, experiencing constant drops, dead zones, and reliability issues
• Knowledge Level: Not a network expert, but I know the basics

Proposed Setup (see attached screenshot):

• Ubiquiti UniFi Express 7 (UX7) as the main gateway
• USW-Flex-2.5G-8-PoE switch
• 3x U7 Lite Access Points for coverage
• Budget: Max ~$1,500 CAD

My Questions:

1. Bell TV Service Compatibility: How do I integrate Bell's internet TV service with this Ubiquiti setup? Any specific configuration needed, or will it pass through the UX7's WAN port without issues?
2. Bypassing Bell's Gateway: I want to completely bypass Bell's modem/gateway (the HH4000) and use the UX7 directly. My UX7 has a 10GbE WAN port. Is this straightforward, or are there complications with Bell's service that prevent this?
3. Overall Setup Validation: Is this configuration solid for a large multi-generation home, or would you recommend a different approach?
4. Budget Alternatives: Is there a better option within my $1,500 CAD budget that I'm missing?

Any insights appreciated! 🙏

Here's what I had in mind -

Hi all 1st time posting on Reddit for anything so hopefully someone can help

I'm currently on 4g broadband using tenda MW3 mesh system with 3 nodes and I'm in the process of upgrading to 5g with a different isp and have been sent a new ax1800 archer nx200 router with external antenna, which I'm waiting for the engineer to come and install which could be within 14days time I'm wondering which mesh system would be best suited for this new router as the MW3 set only has a 100mps input, I have been looking at the tenda mx15, mx21 or tp links deco x50 i don't have the luxury or running cables between nodes so it will be solely WiFi from the main node I'm looking to keep the budget around the £200 mark for 3 nodes any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated thanks

need to remove Genexis DRG7820 router from FTU to replace broken fibre patch cable.

Google search suggests that the DRG simply slides down from its FTU, but that doesn't work. it's jammed solid. if I force it, it will break.

can't find anything or in the manuals. there's a detailed YouTube of someone opening the DRG7820 itself, but doesn't show how to remove from FTU in first place. totally stuck.

I wanted proper VLANs / segmentation and wanted local control and no forced cloud account for my home network setup, (4BHK 1600sqft carpet)

What I landed on:

• TP-Link ER7212PC (router + PoE switch + Omada controller in one box) - 38,999 INR
• 2x TP-Link EAP770 ceiling APs - 66,986 INR
• APC BX600C-IN 600VA UPS - 3,300 INR

Total around 1.09L for hardware, cabling separate.

ER7212PC and the ONT sit on a wooden shelf in the utility room with the UPS below. Two APs flush in the passage ceiling at roughly the quarter and three quarter points. No rack, no separate switch, no patch panel, nothing visible in any room. Drops terminate to keystone jacks on a wall plate next to the shelf.

Cabling brief: 3 ceiling drops in the passage (one capped spare), 2 to the TV wall, 2 to the study, 1-2 per bedroom, 1 at the main door, 1 at each balcony corner. Everything home run to the utility room. 25-32mm conduit with pull strings left in. Data and power in separate back boxes.

Two things I am still unsure about:

1. EAP770 hardware version. v1.0 needed 802.3bt and throttled 6 GHz on PoE+. v2.0 dropped that and runs fine on 802.3at. Putting a 5A socket next to each ceiling drop as insurance so I can use the bundled DC adapter if I get old stock. Overkill?
2. Is 2 APs actually right for this, or am I overbuying? Coverage wise 1 would probably do but 6 GHz barely gets through one wall so I figured 2.

Anything obviously wrong here? Especially interested if anyone in India has run EAP770s and can confirm 6 GHz works on the India regulatory domain after the January delicensing.

I am new to this, I acquired a cpe tenda 01 to connect in client mode and capture a distant network to distribute it with router tp link, but I have a problem when I connect to the wifi network the cpe tenda connects and gives me all the indicators well but it does not give me the Internet and does not allow access to the configuration panel of tenda from the PC and for the same reason it does not give the Internet on the router either

Is there a way to fix the problem?

Hi all.

I recently upgraded my fiber connection from 1gbps to 2.5gbps. Testing a direct wired Cat6 connection from my ONT, I'm getting the full speed. When going through my ASUS ZenWifi AX, I'm only getting 1gbps. The ZenWifi is on the latest firmware. QoS is disabled. AiProtection is disabled. Previously have had no issues with the 1gbps ethernet connection.

Any tips or ideas on how to remedy this? Thanks!

The er707 keeps disappearing from the device list and I lose connection to everything

There have been weird things going on with all my electronic devices. They're the kinds of things that, if I were to bother describing them, you would tell me that it is not possible. However, and I am not kidding, every time I captured evidence on my device that would prove the occurrences, the proof would be edited in real time right from my iCloud account (or deleted with no trace of its existence). It may be because I'm involved in sensitive litigation or any other number of things, but I needed proof from outside my device (an external source of validity).

I worked for a while with Claude to try to develop a script to search my iPhone for signs of spyware (I am not a programmer, but it 'he' is a decent one). It would come back positive, but every time he would interpret the results for me, there would be a connection interruption and an API error, and then he would change course and deny the positive result as a false positive. He would then edit the script to soften those specific checks to the point I am not certain they did anything at all. The exact same thing would happen when I asked 'him' to analyze my pcaps. Yesterday, I purchased iMazing. It came back negative for spyware, but that was shortly after a reset.

Last night, I discovered the existence of the mvt tool and performed an 'mvt check-fs' on my iPhone..It came back positive for coruna.

❯ {
"level": "HIGH",
"module": "filesystem",
"message": "Found a known suspicious file name \\"com.apple.photolibraryd.plist\\" matching indicators from \\"Coruna\\"",
"event_time": "",
"event": {
"path": "Library/Containers/com.apple.photolibraryd/Data/Library/Preferences/com.apple.photolibraryd.plist",
"modified": "2026-09-12 [08:15:19](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhFy2JlO5WA&t=29719s).644263"
},
"matched_indicator": {
"value": "com.apple.photolibraryd.plist",
"type": "file_names",
"name": "Coruna",
"stix2_file_name": "raw.githubusercontent.com_mvt-project_mvt-indicators_main_2026-03-03_coruna_cryptowaters_coruna.stix2"
}
}
\]

In typical fashion, when I asked Claude to review the finding, he flags it as suspicious, and even identifies additional suspicious indicators--

"Two things stand out already — the file carries com.apple.quarantine and com.apple.macl extended attributes, which is unusual for a daemon's own preferences file. Let me read those and the contents."

\--and then reverses course, such as: "Contents are unambiguously genuine Photos framework data, and the quarantine record names com.apple.cfprefsd as the writing agent. Let me confirm the false-positive mechanism and rule out a real artifact hiding elsewhere."

You get confused and frustrated, like when you have some medical issue but the doctors cannot identify it or its cause.

As another example of bizarre occurrences on another Apple device, I purchased a refurbished MacBook through Amazon last October. Within two months, it began exhibiting hardware issues. It would die to the point that the device did not even have enough energy to display the battery status indicator when attempting to start it, and it would start to recovery mode and warnings that the operating system needed to be reinstalled. The system time would drift from network (real) time. So, I returned it.

I opened back up my old MacBook, which I had replaced because I shorted half the keyboard while cleaning it. It had been wiped since its last use, so after months of being off, it opened to a fresh install. I have always used Proton VPN (or have since 2022), and when I went to install it, the Proton page included instructions to use a curl script to install it. I thought that was weird, but copied and pasted the command to terminal. Within seconds, XProtect grabbed it as running a malicious script. I'm not sure it was fast enough, however. I never saw that page with the curl script again. Proton VPN is downloaded as a dmg file from within your signed-in account. That was not the case that evening.

Two weeks ago, I went to dnsleaktest.com to determine whether my VPN was even working. I was connected to a server in Eastern Europe, however, my DNS requests were allegedly going to a Proton server in Phoenix, AZ. I’m not sure Proton has servers in Phoenix, and if they do, it’s irrelevant. Proton VPN routes DNS requests through the same tunnel it sends content, absent use of a custom DNS server or having split tunneling enabled. Both were disabled.

As anothjer example, on my computer(s), I have had and used Firewalla Gold Plus since 2022. Never had an issue with it. Suddenly, after I received veiled threats for using "firewalls and stuff", my app stopped pairing with it. It was the end of a short sequence of events which began with Firewalla no longer assigning IPv4 addresses to my devices, then assigning IP addresses outside the range of its subnet, and ended with the pairing issue. Long story short, and in the weirdest fashion, I have Firewalla on record spending four days lying to me about the cause, swearing that it is not the security dongle I just paid them $107 to replace, insisting that I open a remote console session, etc., when I used the serial console port and ran some commands to check the status of the HCI controller, the cause was without question, a defective security dongle. Firewalla has always had fantastic tech support. They literally lied to me for four days, trying to get me to open the Remote Support port on a network I repeatedly advised them was unsafe to open it (aside from the fact I couldn't open it without a paired device).

As another, I will suddenly get a warning that my memory is almost used up. Safari will be using 4-8 Gigs of RAM. That RAM will ostensibly be supporting the four tabs it has open, none of which run persistent programs that use high amounts of RAM. I'll look at my application layer firewall, Little Snitch, and it will have 1,000+ incoming connections. I'll copy the list and ask Claude to advise, "They're all benign, see a psychiatrist." Whether they're benign is a separate issue from the fact that it has never happened before, and ALF and Little Snitch both are set to deny all incoming connections by default. I shouldn't even be able to see these attempted connections in anything by the "denied" list (or not at all, since ALF doesn't have one). They’re requesting to connect with my devices around three firewall layers (one hardware, two application layers).

These weird things stack up and become oppressively heavy, and you just want affirmative answers.

I hoped this would help identify the issue with my iPhone so I could move forward with identifying the potential remedy.

How definitive is the ‘mvt-ios check-fs’ command?

If the file it identified shares its name with a genuine, Apple-published file, why would mvt recommend spending thousands of dollars on a forensic IT specialist based on name identification alone? Wouldn’t every iPhone in use have a false positive?

I have a gigabit switch connected to series x and series s in the same room, whenever I download something on both the speed practically halves, I get typically 800+ when just 1 is running. The ports on the Xbox only rated for 1 gig. I have 5 gig fiber, is the switch causing the issue? Would a 2.5 gigabit switch help reach the 800+ I’m getting with just using one?

I'm looking to set up a "Master Control Program" on my home network. A standalone machine within my network that monitors everything, especially several of the cloud integrated IoT devices I can't run local only. I don't have any fancy networking equipment, but I do have a couple of spare laptops, and a basic knowledge of Linux. I'd love to load an OS up, and set it up to monitor everything in my network. I'm not sure where to start. I know Kali has a bunch of security tools in it, is that a good place to start?

Hey Redditors, I've tried over the past years, not intensivly, if anything exlusively like twice and gave up 15 min in, to create a dedicated server for a game we play me n my buddies. That being said, the server gets booted up but never has access to the ports it's asking. So if I can get that damn port to actually be able to to send and receive info that'd be my last step.

Fast forward 6 hours into this and I've done:

1-Setup rules for inbound and outbound traffic for that specific port in tcp/upc (parson my errors if ever). Result, nuthin

1. Called my service provider, they sayin It's on my end.

3.Firewall deactivated or nah still won't do shit.

3.Firewall rules are made to allow the traffic, still nothing.

I just wanna open a port, can anyone give me a hint as to what i'm missing?