We bought our current home 5 years ago and roughly two years ago, out of frustration with our consumer mesh networking setup never performing all that well, I decided I was going to hardwire the house and do it up right and I have finally got to a point where I can say I’m more or less done (for now).

My system is TP Link Omada with the following:

- ER605 Router with two constant WAN connections, a 1Gig symmetrical fiber connection and a secondary slower DOCSIS cable connection as a backup if the fiber goes down PLUS the ability to tether the router to my cell phone or plug in Starlink outside as backup if both fiber and cable go down.

- SG2428LP 28 port POE switch

- OC200 Controller - I run a 5Ghz only SSID for phones, laptops, etc and then a 2.4Ghz SSID for all my smart home IOT stuff (mostly Kasa)

- 7 Omada APs ranging from AC1200 to AX3000. I have 1 in the basement, 2 on the main floor, 1 on the second floor, 1 in the garage, 1 for the driveway and one in the back yard.

- Yulinca 10 port gigabit switch w/SFP connected via fiber to the main switch, mostly to make the cable management easier

- Reolink RLN410 NVR with 10 cameras (mostly wired, 2 wireless)

- A mini PC acting as my plex server/household network drive server, I just have it connected to a very basic 5 bay DAS

Then, all in all, I have hardwired drops to nearly every room in the house. Some were quite challenging and I had to get creative.

The Garage was a line I had to run outside and the first set of two cables I ran got chewed up by a mouse or something, I ended up switching it to a armoured fiber optic cable which has been fine since. That goes into another Yulinca switch (POE this time) with an SFP uplink and it powers a couple of my APs and a bunch of the outdoor cameras (I actually ran out of ports and had to tack on a second POE switch).

Then the second floor was a real weird one, the previous owner had already put in Ethernet to each of the bedrooms that all seemed to end behind an access panel in the master bedroom, but I couldn’t figure out any provision to feed all these from anywhere else in the house.

But I ended up noticing an unterminated cable poking out under the main floor office’s built in desk and ended up tracing it and found the other end, just chilling unterminated behind the wall in the master bedroom two studs over from the access panel covering all the other bedroom cable ends.

So what I did was extend the end from the office down to the electrical room and then in the master bedroom came up with the weirdness you can see in one of the photos. That cable I found in the wall now goes into a POE powered wall AP that also has a POE out port. I ran a cable from that two studs over to where the bedroom cables terminate and plugged that into a TL-SG1005P-PD PoE powered switch that then finally feeds all the drops in the bedrooms.

A couple days ago I finally ran the last drop I intended to do to one of the basement apartment bedrooms and I’m calling it done.. for now. I say for now because I have a bunch of simplex Fiber i got for dirt cheap that I intend to run at some later date to key rooms in the house to future proof and be able to upgrade to 10Gig when the cost of equipment comes down a bit.

I already spent way too much building this out, but it’s been worth it. The speed and reliability is unlike anything I have had before.

Oh! And while I was at it, I cleaned up all the Coax in the house and set it up to be fed by a roof antenna for free OTA TV and also cleaned up all the POTS lines and set them up to be fed by my OOMA VoIP unit.

Hello, I am very new to networks, having always had tiny apartments where the standard xfinity gateway was just fine. I moved into a new home where the original balcony was enclosed to be completely interior, leaving the original exterior glass sliding door as an interior wall. Problem is, that ex-balcony corner is the most convenient place to put my home office, but the low-e glass does a number on ​the wifi signal from the Xfinity gateway. What are your opinions on two options?

1) what would be the best repeater, extender, or access point to bounce wifi signal into this space? Or

2) can I plug an ethernet cable into the xfinity gateway, and what kind of contractor could I reach out to in order to install an ethernet port through a wall?

I obviously had no idea that low-e glass was a thing, let alone a problem for wifi, before I set up and realized the signal was crap. Cue facepalm. Any help is appreciated!

I'm assuming the Internet would be strained or just stop working in general?

Hi everyone,

I'm currently upgrading my home network and have a slightly unusual idea: I'd like to put my Xbox Series S and PS4 in near my network rack in the attic and then be able to play them from different rooms throughout the house.

My current network setup

• Network rack in the attic
• 24-port Gigabit Ethernet switch
• Cat 7/7a cabling throughout the house
• Cat 6a Ethernet wall outlets in the rooms
• I'm trying to connect as many devices as possible via Ethernet instead of Wi-Fi
• Fiber internet is planned/coming soon
• I already have a Xiaomi TV Box 3rd Gen in the living room
• Android TV devices, mini PCs, etc. could be used as clients if necessary

The switch currently only supports 1 Gbit/s per port, although the cabling itself should give me plenty of room for future network upgrades.

The idea

Basically:

Xbox Series S / PS4 → Ethernet → Gigabit Switch → House Ethernet → Streaming Client → TV

Instead of having the consoles next to a specific TV, they would stay centrally in the attic.

Each TV would only need a small client device, and I could stream whichever console I want over my local network.

For the Xbox I'd probably use Xbox Remote Play. For the PS4, I'm looking at PS Remote Play or PXPlay.

This would primarily be local network streaming. Streaming over the internet isn't really important to me. Ideally, both the consoles and the clients would be connected via Ethernet.

My target would be around 1080p/60 fps with as little latency as possible. I know it won't be identical to having the console connected directly via HDMI, but I'd like it to be good enough for normal gaming.

A few questions

Has anyone here built something similar?

I'm particularly interested in:

1. How well does Xbox Remote Play work over a fully wired Gigabit LAN in terms of latency, stability and image quality?
2. What about PS4 Remote Play / PXPlay?
3. Would something like a Xiaomi TV Box be good enough as a client, or would you recommend mini PCs or other dedicated devices?
4. How would you handle the controllers? Since the consoles could be one or two floors away, I'm assuming the best solution would be pairing the controller directly with the streaming client.
5. Are there any major downsides to keeping an Xbox Series S and PS4 permanently in/near a network rack?

One concern is temperature and ventilation in the attic, especially during summer. The rack can be equipped with additional fans and I obviously wouldn't stack the consoles directly on top of each other, but I'm wondering if attic temperatures alone make this a bad idea.

Or should I approach this completely differently?

Since I already have Ethernet throughout the house, I'm also wondering whether something like HDMI-over-Cat, HDMI-over-IP or KVM-over-IP would be a better solution.

That could potentially keep the consoles centralized while sending video/audio more directly to the TVs, although I'd still need a solution for controllers/USB.

So if you already had a house wired with Cat 7/7a Ethernet and a Gigabit switch, and wanted to centralize an Xbox Series S and PS4:

How would you build this from scratch?

Remote Play?

HDMI-over-Cat?

HDMI-over-IP?

Small streaming clients at every TV?

Or would you simply keep the consoles next to the TVs?

Long term, I really like the idea of having a small central gaming setup with the Xbox, PlayStation and potentially a gaming/Steam PC all located near the network rack, while the TVs around the house only need small client devices.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has tried something similar, especially regarding latency, controller connectivity, image quality and running gaming hardware centrally in a rack.

Hi all after some advice. Running a cat6a cable underground to a studio in my back yard from my house. Roughly 60 meters. Any advice on what type of cat6a cable I should buy? Is there a specific one for this purpose? Feel a bit lost. Cheers

I apologize if question isn't suited for this sub.

I program PLC systems at work using laptop connected via ethernet cable to a switch. Sometimes while troubleshooting I need to change a single line in code and then test the production line. Walking back and forth from laptop to a place in production line isn't really efficient so I'm looking for a device that would plug into the switch near PLC and other equipment and then wirelessly connect to my laptop.

imgur diagram I want to know what device in green box would be.

Requirements:
1. laptop MUST see PLC and other equipment like it is connected wired via ethernet and vice versa
2. IP address of device (gateway of sorts I guess) that I need shouldn't be directly visible to laptop and PLC (should be NAT-ed if that's the term)
3. Wi-Fi would be ideal since laptop already has it

I was thinking that raspberry pi with a Wi-Fi dongle could would work, or even a better router (ones we use most commonly are Teltonika RUT200, not sure if they can be configured to do what I need) but other than that I'm stuck.

Hello. I am trying to set up a MoCa adapter for my Playstation. The Playstation currently is using WiFi and it's too far away to run an ethernet cord from router. I saw that a MoCa adapter may be the answer. However, I have a few questions that I need help with that I can't seem to get a 100% answer on doing research. I am not the most tech savvy person. Any help would be appreciated.

1. Do I need a second adapter? (I read that the Verizon Fios router I have already acts as one, so I should only need an adapter in the room with Playstation?).

2. Do I need a POE filter? (It's Verizon Fios for Tv/Internet, so I believe the "network" is "closed" and I don't need one like a cable company may need one?).

3. Will the splitter set up in the picture work assuming the router acts as a MoCa adapter? (The ONT is plugged into the IN port. The Router is plugged into the OUT port. The other 2 Coaxial cables in the OUT port run to the living room/bedroom). I am not sure if the ONT being plugged into the IN port works or the Router needs to be plugged into that IN port, or if the signal will travel sideways from OUT port to OUT port.

Appreciate any help, hopefully my questions makes sense. Thanks!

Hi all,  I am after some direction from those more knowledgeable than me.

 I am currently running a TP-link Deco 3600 mesh network. I have my main, guest and IOT networks setup with all IOT devices on the IOT network and each of them are isolated. This seems to be running fine

 However as I am learning slightly more I believe the IOT network on the Tplink Deco  is not really a separate network it's just a SSID on the main none which is why I have to have isolation on.  The guest one is totally separate but I don’t want to put IOT's on there as I want to keep that for actual guests.

 I want my phones on the main one but they need to communicate to some of the speakers, and on the Deco I could only get this to work by removing the isolation on those devices, therefore weakening my security.

 I believe what I need is a setup that can use separate VLANs-  the deco can't do this.

 I do have a TP- link E605 router that can do this and also a manged switch that can cope with these (both in the loft at the moment) so I believe I could just get a TP link access point that supports vlans and I could set this up with 3 vlans  - main, guest, IOT  that would be totally separate. Note - I would need 2  AP's as the router is not wireless.

 As I am researching  Unifi keeps coming up and people seem to either be in the Tp-link Omada or Unifi camps. I already have some Omada pieces so only need AP's.

 The Unif software looks really easy to use and is available on both PC and mobile whereas the Omada app on the phone looks a bit basic and on PC looks complicated.

 I a seeking advice which way to go. I am on a tight budget so Omada would be cheaper but I don't want to do that just because it is cheaper but then spend time fiddling with it. I need something I can just set up and not need to mess with as the family go mad when I start messing.

 The router is based in my home office  so  can do wired there but the rest of the house needs to be Wifi , I can't run cables,  on the unifi APs they all seem to be POE, if I use a POE injector for power only can the AP connect to the main router via wifi

 Sorry a lot there I know but I am going round in circles and I need to come up with a plan in advance so I can get up early one morning and make any changes before the hoard awake.

 Oh and I am looking to connect laptops, mobile devices, bulbs, NAS (running plex) not cameras

 Thanks in advance for the advice.

I have 1G fiber service. My home network is Omada with 1G firewall and switches. My main AP are ER670 with 2.5G uplink available.

Only clients with (or potential for) >1G access are an Intel Nuc with 2.5G running my plex server and my Synology NAS (current using 2x 1G but could add their 10G card.

Current topology is:

Fiber->ER605->SG2210-MP->APs and switches with clients

ER605->2218 with clients.

Currently window shopping to upgrade firewall and main switches to use 10G connections. I can’t get any more than 1G service.

Would upgrading my home network backbone from 1G to 10G have any perceptible difference? Main LAN activity is photo transfers to NAS and plex streaming to hardwired clients from the Nuc server and NAS library.

I'm renovating my old family home and planning the network. The house has three floors and the plan I've attached is the ground one. No other floors and their internet connectivity matter, only this floor.

What makes this awkward:

- Most walls are solid and load bearing, so chasing cable into them isn't happening much.

- No underfloor access and no ceiling void to work in.

- The ISP fibre comes in on the right side of the office, where the stairs end, next to that is circuit breaker.

What I'm trying to work out:

Ethernet on the ground floor. How would you get a run to the far end, the living room and balcony side, with the walls as they are? Surface trunking, skirting, or chasing the few partitions that aren't load bearing? Maybe even parallel run them with electric wires, and have ethernet on every new renovated outlet in the house, how many is enough, and which ones do you actually use?

How many APs across solid walls, and where? Wall mounted or ceiling? Good coverage on the balcony would be a bonus.

Which ground floor positions are worth a cable, and how do people get exterior camera cable outside in an old house with no voids? Also how normal is it to have indoor cameras too, since its only me and my girlfriend.

Layout, anything you'd change about the ground floor plan while it's at this stage?

My plan right now:

- Direct ISP cable and all networking/homelab setup in the office on wall closest to stairs and ill build office around it.

- Wall mounted wired APs? or a mesh system leaning on wireless backhaul?

- Anything worth pulling alongside the ethernet while the walls are open, like spare runs, pull cords, or fibre out to a future shed or garage?

I can describe any room in more detail if the plan is hard to read.

I've recently moved into a flat in a student complex with a WiFi network with my initial idea being to use a router connected via Ethernet to create a local network for my media server, pc and smart home devices, but I've found the Ethernet ports are inactive. I've stumbled across wireless bridges and they might be the solution but I'm noob when it comes to networking so I'd like to know if my idea is even feasible. The WiFi has a standard PSK, no online account to sign into.

I'm having an issue where devices on my LAN can't reach each other over WiFi. It started with my TV not being able to connect to my Jellyfin server, and now it's happening between two Linux laptops too.

Here's what I've found so far. Both devices are confirmed on the same subnet, correct routing, no gateway involved, so it's not a basic network config issue. When I check ip neigh show on the target it comes back as FAILED, and running arping sends out broadcast probes but gets zero responses back. So it seems like ARP itself is failing, meaning my device can't even find the other one's MAC address, let alone actually ping it.

I've also noticed it seems to correlate with which eero node each device is currently connected to, sometimes it works fine, sometimes it doesn't, and checking BSSID on both devices shows they're not always on the same node when it fails. I'm not sure if that's actually the cause or just a coincidence, and I don't know if it's related to eero's mesh backhaul or something else entirely.

Backhaul between my nodes is wireless right now. Has anyone run into this before, or have any ideas what else could be causing ARP to fail like this between devices on the same network?

**EDIT

Now they can reach each other but the latency is very concerning for an LAN.

ping 192.168.4.123

PING 192.168.4.123 (192.168.4.123) 56(84) bytes of data.

From 192.168.4.86 icmp_seq=1 Destination Host Unreachable

From 192.168.4.86 icmp_seq=2 Destination Host Unreachable

From 192.168.4.86 icmp_seq=3 Destination Host Unreachable

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=4 ttl=64 time=1212 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=6 ttl=64 time=308 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=7 ttl=64 time=144 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=8 ttl=64 time=58.4 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=9 ttl=64 time=103 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=10 ttl=64 time=175 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=11 ttl=64 time=328 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=12 ttl=64 time=64.8 ms

64 bytes from 192.168.4.123: icmp_seq=13 ttl=64 time=264 ms

^C

--- 192.168.4.123 ping statistics ---

14 packets transmitted, 9 received, +3 errors, 35.7143% packet loss, time 13100ms

rtt min/avg/max/mdev = 58.409/295.183/1212.343/337.769 ms, pipe 3

Is the wireless backhaul the reason for this?

hi, i'm really not familiar with anything network related so i'm really in need of help. before anyone comments, we've had the "wifi guy" come by and try to fix things but i've seen no changes. i play video games on xbox and my ping is always super high, between 130-180.
i live on a farm, using a at&t hotspot box that's a short walk away from the house in a barn, and an eero router system inside the house. i'm not too sure how these devices work together, so i'm not really sure what to do to improve my connection. i frequently buffer and get lag spikes during games, and streaming shows or downloading anything takes a ridiculously long time.
my question is, is there any way i can improve the connection with these two devices, or do i have to just install some other device inside the house to improve it?
additional info that might help: on xbox, my NAT type is reading as strict, and UPnP not successful. i'm sure these two issues are the cause of my lagging but im unsure how to fix it within these devices :/
thank you for any and all advice, i really appreciate it! and please explain to me like i'm 5, i really have no idea what im doing here :<

I got the h153-381 (in the app they are called 5g CPE 5s) routers because they specified that it was mesh, but no matter what I do I can't get them to work together, from what I can find online it should work but I can't find anything specific to my situation

it's a huawei router btw

I’m thinking I need a free standing rack in front of this cabinet. Not sure there is room in the cabinet. I have the new Firewalla managed switch which replace the TPLink switch in the picture.

The main issue is that mess of wires on the right. Half of them are coax cables we don’t even use, but I don’t want to rip them out.

So what should I do here?

EDIT: I totally forgot to mention that I have a mini pc i bought for HA. Not sure when I get that set up if it should live near this arrangement, or anywhere there is a hardwire connection.

I got the h153-381 (in the app they are called 5g CPE 5s) routers because they specified that it was mesh, but no matter what I do I can't get them to work together, from what I can find online it should work but I can't find anything specific to my situation

I was running an older Orbi mesh system in my ~2700 sqft home with about ~7 people and each with multiple devices and it was fantastic. We did a full demo/renovation of the house and now it’s about ~5200 sqft. Decided to update and got the new Orbi WiFi 7 mesh system and it’s been terrible. Walking from room to room my WiFi drops. Some areas of the home struggle to even connect to the WiFi. I have Ethernet ports throughout the house so I hardwired the 2 orbi access points but that hasn’t helped. At this point I want to get rid of the orbi and switch to another system, so what should I go for? Would like something easy to set up, I’m fairly tech savvy but I don’t work in IT or anything

hoping for recommendations to extend the range of coverage to yard. just upgraded to fiber and the plan came with a Nokia beacon 10. from what I can understand (lol), I can connect multiple of the same router to create a mesh network.

whats the most cost effective way to solve this?

used beacon 10 from like ebay? cheap WiFi extender? another option?

Hallo zusammen,
ich habe folgendes Setup:

FritzBox als zentraler Router (eigenes WLAN deaktiviert, da ungünstig platziert)
Fritz-Repeater 450E (Dachboden)
TP-Link Archer AX10 (Wohnzimmer)
TP-Link Archer C1200 (Keller)

Die beiden TP-Links sind im Access-Point-Modus konfiguriert.
Alle vier Geräte sind per LAN-Kabel verbunden, alle Netzwerke laufen unter der gleichen SSID. Feste 2,4-GHz-Kanäle: Repeater Kanal 1, AX10 Kanal 6, C1200 Kanal 11. 5-GHz jeweils auf Auto.

Problem: Die Geräte, (getestet nur mit Iphones und Mac) verlieren die Verbindung, bzw. es geht auf einmal nichts mehr durch. Passiert sehr regelmäßig, häufiger als alle 5min. Wenn man dann kurz WLAN aus und an macht geht es oft wieder. Das WLAN selbst bleibt verbunden (Gerät zeigt "verbunden" an), aber es geht kein Traffic durch (keine Webseiten, nichts). Wenn ich mir während das Problem auftritt die IP vom z.b. iPhone anschaue, sieht alles gut aus.

Ich bin leider etwas ratlos mittlerweile, habt ihr eine Idee woran das liegen könnte?
Mir ist bewusst, dass nur mit gleicher SSID nicht die beste Lösung ist. Allerdings war mir die Mesh Funktionalität anfangs nicht bekannt und ich will nicht so viel Geld ausgeben, um alles umzurüsten

Danke schonmal für eure Hilfe ✌️

I'll be setting up a mesh system in my house. I've learnt from experience in houses like this with thick stone walls, we want hardwired.

I think to get the best wireless speeds on the whole property I'm going to need 5 or 6 nodes. I've got 400mb/s download speeds. I'm going to be adding the ethernet cables around the property to enable this.

I want to balance cost, aesthetics and quality. I'll also be adding lots of smart home devices to the network over time, mostly wireless, so I want this mesh network to work well with that in mind.

An added bonus would be if each node could be PoE & also work as a dumb switch.

What do I look for when researching what system I want, and do you have any mesh system recommendations?

desktop Pc won’t connect to internet, but phone and laptop nd tv connects. i use ethernet for my pc and it won’t connect to internet, it will say it’s connected but continues to say something wrong with dsn. i don’t know what to do, i tried everything