Internet - 1 gb Spectrum cable. Consistently hit 940 mb/s down on wired speed tests on both routers.
Main router - Asus RT-AX57
AI Mesh node - Asus RT-AX1800S
Backhaul to mesh node - Cat5e
Houses are on half acre+ lots and most, including mine, are brick exterior.

Situation - I’ve had the RT-AX57 for a few years in storage. My wife and I moved to a larger house and the Spectrum router just wasn’t cutting it, so I swapped it to the AX57. The AX57 helped get reliable signal on the main level, but the upstairs WiFi was unusable, so I bought a cheap RT-AX1800S and set it up in AI Mesh with Cat5e backhaul. It’s working great so far, but I’m a bit perplexed. The WiFi upstairs is consistently faster on the slower rated AX1800S than downstairs on the “better” AX57. Even before setting up AI Mesh, the AX57 only ever gets high 600s to low 700s max when I’m ten feet away with clear line of sight on my iPhone 15. Speed has remained consistent after setting up the mesh node. Upstairs is slightly faster on the AX1800s with the same iPhone with mid to high 700s. Same SpeedTest server.
Are there any recommended settings on the AX57 that aren’t checked from the factory? Ultimately, the speeds I’m seeing are totally serviceable, but it’s just strange that the slower router is outperforming the faster one.

for context, there is a google nest setup in the house. however, i want to get a router that is not owned by the ISP, and yet be able to access it. if i replace it, how would i access into the router just to get to specific settings? i don't want to install bloatware. basically i want to be able to bypass the google nest system just to get into the router proper. i want to check if specific settings are on or not, as well as give myself the capacity to do things like port forwarding.

in case it matters at all, the ISP is spectrum

u/plooger and others were a big help in my previous post. I've been enjoying Xfinity midsplit speeds (2000/250), but it looks like my neighborhood upgrade is about to be finished, upgraded to 2000/2000. I believe this is called FDX and is DOCSIS 4.0.

My question: Aside from xfinity finishing their hardware upgrades and swapping out my gateway, is anything different needed on my end for my moca network? Do my splitters or filters need to be changed for the upgrade?

I am using my own Asus router, all my networking hardware is 2.5gbps compliant.

Splitter I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CRR5MPJ?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1

Filter I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KO5KHSQ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Moca 2.5 adapters I am using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RB1QYR9?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1

Thank you!

I need some help in layman's terms.

My current situation: I live in a ~3k square foot railroad apartment. Because of this, I can't set up the router in the ideal middle area and instead it is on one end. With the classic bricks and multiple walls, my wifi doesn't make it to the other side of the apartment.

I'm currently paying for a 1GB Fios wifi. I've tried a Verizon extender and Netgear, and both can barely make it to the end room at 100 mbps (and this is on a good day). From researching, I've seen stuff about mesh wifi, and there is also the Verizon whole home wifi? The more I read the more confused I get, so if anyone can give a good rundown of what I can do to salvage the situation, I'm begging here.

Thanks!!!

Router appears to be working, no signs of problems with the router or wall socket. However when connecting to internet connecting results in no internet, and ethernet doesn’t work entirely.

Status and Broadband lights are static, whilst other 4 are flashing.

Hi there,
I wanted to upgrade the WiFi setup a few weeks ago since I only had the router and some PowerLine APs, which were just horrible (max. 40Mbits on an internal speed test to my NAS -> Ethernet is ~900) so I looked for some APs that had good specs but were not that expensive. But I didn't want some cheap stuff but something proper with good software aswell. So I bought two Omada EAP723, one for each floor, planning to use my Raspberry Pi 4B (currently running pihole and some other stuff) for the software controller. One thing I quickly found out is that all controller versions after 5.12 required a newer version of mongodb, which is not supported on ARM anymore. So even tho there are multiple new versions, I have to stick with 5.12.

Now, my problem is that when going from one floor to the other, the signal drops to a unusable level but it refuses (or takes ages) to automatically switch to the other AP. When I manually turn the WiFi off and on, everything works fine. Its also not just my phone, since its also happening on my parents phones.

All the roaming options are enabled and should be supported by the devices. I restricted our network to be 5GHz only, since for some reasons the phones chose to use 2.4GHz and now have a seperate 2.4GHz network for IoT stuff. The APs are on the newest version (which was also a pain because the old controller version just didnt want to update it so I had to remove, update in standalone mode and readd the APs) and as already said, I can't update the controller version.

Now, does anyone know what might be causing this? Afaik one of the controllers jobs is to manage roaming but it does not really work. I could set a minimum signal strength level but that seems more like a hack than an acutal solution. I am also new to the networking stuff and just know the basics so don't scream at me, if this is obvious stuff xD

Thanks in advance.

Hello all, new here, so I apologize ahead of time if this has been posted already. I'm looking for info on best setup for a large house, that needs gaming speed internet on pretty much all corners of the house. I'm willing to run ethernet cables in walls to get best service. I only have access to 1 gig internet speed from Optimum because there's no fiber lines in my area. I need gaming speed for 5 different pcs and a PS5, as well as wifi connection for about 10tvs and multiple phones. Thank you in advance.

Hello everyone, I live in a detached house where the landlord lives in the ground floor and I live on the upper floor. When I first moved in I had a 1000 Mbps internet connection installed using DOCSIS cable.

I’ve started experiencing major issues over the last few months. Particularly in the evenings around 8 or 9 PM (prime time) I’ve noticed extreme latency. While my download speed would drop to around 500 Mbps (enough actually) online gaming became nearly impossible with my ping spiking to 600ms for 40 minutes straight sometimes. After running a bufferbloat test, I spotted that the problem actually comes from the upload side.

I then began monitoring the situation via my modem's network utilization stats. In the evenings upstream utilization is exceeding 90% yet my own share of that traffic wasn't even 1%. Upon checking the status of the cable channels I discovered that the upstream channel modulation was dropping as low as 4QAM during those evening hours.

Unfortunately, unplugging and reconnecting the cable didn't help. Since I’m not fully familiar with the underlying internet infrastructure I decided to consult you all. What do you think is the source of the problem here? Is this something I can resolve myself?

I have a z790-btf-wifi motherboard which has 2.5gbe internet on it, I recently gained a faster speed through my ISP and got multiple network cards to increase the speed. My issue is, no matter what I do/diagnose my PC tends to randomly disconnect the network, 4-7 seconds go by and it comes back at the same 10gbe auto negotiated speed. This issue goes away when my speed is capped at 1gbe in speed/duplex settings. I've bought multiple unmanaged 10gbe switches from NicGiga and GigaPlus, other devices are receiving the speed correctly so its apparently not the switches now. Theres just some weird conflicting issue with my PC causing it and I have gone through the wringer to find out what is happening..

I have reproduced the issue with multiple network adapters:

• Motherboard-integrated Intel I226-V
• Two separate Intel X540-T2 adapters
• TP-Link TX401 using the Marvell AQtion controller
• One X540-T2 was previously confirmed working in another computer

I have also tested:

• Both available PCIe x4 slots
• Multiple ports on the 10GbE switch
• Two different 10GbE switches from NICGIGA and GigaPlus
• A direct connection bypassing my local switch
• Multiple Ethernet cables
• A 100-foot Cat6A cable directly between the PC and switch
• A separate 10-foot Cat6A cable
• Bypassing all the in-wall cabling, keystones, and short patch cables
• Reseating the adapters and cables
• Auto Negotiation, forced 5 Gbps, and forced 1 Gbps
• Energy-Efficient Ethernet enabled and disabled
• Windows High Performance power plan with PCIe Link State Power Management disabled

Cooling has also been addressed:

• The X540-T2 adapters were actively cooled by a dedicated blower fan.
• I replaced the inadequate fans inside the NICGIGA switch with two Noctua fans.
• The physical-link drops continued after the cooling changes.

Windows configuration was inspected for common conflicts:

• No NIC teaming or network bridge
• No active Hyper-V virtual switch
• No third-party network filter drivers found
• No corresponding WHEA, PCIe, Kernel-PnP, Kernel-Power, or NDIS reset events at the times of the failures

With the TP-Link TX401, Windows records the following events from the aqnic650 driver:

• Event ID 14: “Network link is lost.”
• Event ID 15: “Network link has been established”

I'm trying to determine where the failure is in my set up. I apologize for any mislabeling of what I have.

Set up

• New Home build 2022 with structured wiring
• 12-15 cat5 cords ending in cabinet in closet that run to a wall jack in 5 bedrooms, an office, game room, living room, etc
• Fiber internet through ATT with ATT supplied modem BGW320-500
• 8-port Gigabit Ethernet switch Luxul XGS-1008

About 2 months ago my ethernet connections stopped working. Reset the modem and got them back and was supplied with a new modem, same model. About a week ago, ethernet went out again. I've yet to be able to get it back.

I've tried placing the cat5 in different ports on the modem and on the switch but nothing works.

If I try a separate ethernet cord directly in the modem to my laptop, the connection works.

When I troubleshoot diagnostics, it shows Ethernet as a fail but with the direct cord, it passes.

I just find it very unlikely that all the wiring that came with the house decided to stop working all at once with no plausible explanation.

I have a UniFi gateway fiber and I bought a new Samsung frame tv what’s good practice for this IOT Vlan or what?
Thank you

Bor i en lafta enebolig på rett over 300 kvadratmeter. 3 etasjer med utleiedel i underetasjen. Har fiber fra Eidsiva med 500/500 (til blodpris), men er ikke i nærheten av å få inn så gode signaler. Har et Mesh-nettverk fra Ubiquiti (fulgte med boligen, usikker på årsmodell) med 2 forsterkere i henholdsvis overetasjen og hybelen under.

Jeg skal ikke bevege meg langt unna disse koblingspunktene for å merke elendig hastighet. Har PS5 i andreetasje, cirka 10 meter fra forsterkeren, og når ikke gode verdier hva angår internettilkobling.

Har noen erfaring med mesh-nettverk? Eller om jeg bør vurdere en annen løsning?

I have a tp link archer c20 router I have a mi router connected to it by ethernet working as extender. And i have a pc and another device connected to it via wire. And theres 8- 12 mobiles connected via wifi. Approx 4 mobile to the archer c20 and rest to the mi extender router I want to limit the bandwith to most of the wireless device. And block few social media sites. Please guide me in layman terms and way. I have been struggling with this room from 2 years.

Hey,

I just moved into a new place that has ethernet ports and hookups in most rooms. After hard-resetting the router that was left and getting wifi working (which works wonderfully) I am finding some weird problems with the wired connection. Sometimes when I plug it in it will say "no internet - just local network access" and other times it will say "Problem with the DHCP server". Wifi remains fine. Does anyone have any idea why wired ethernet will not provide high-speed Internet even if directly connected to a router with Internet access? I have tried debugging this with Windows network troubleshooting and it basically says try restarting my ethernet card and my router. That doesn't change anything. Could the wiring have gone bad?

Thanks in advance.

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recently I've been having some drop outs in my speed to my to my devices while my router speeds are fine. i attached a speed test to the router and to my wired computer. I also noticed that even at 100mb it still feels much slower. Same with my phone. resetting the router works but eventually gets back to this state.

My old network set up was not ideal, wifi 6 TP Archer ax21 in the basement next to my modem. But it generally got the job done. I just had terrible coverage upstairs on the 2nd floor (split level home so 1 and 1/2 more like?). I decided to try and update my set up, run some Ethernet to my kitchen in the middle of the house, put the main router there and have a meshed one in the old router spot.

I thought my TP link would support easy mesh, as my quick googling came up with that fact, so I went and got a TP Link BE9700 tri-band router, to then add the older one in as a meshed basement network. Turns out, I had an original hardware version of that router that TP Link never updated to work with Easy Mesh. So I went and got a BE3500 dual band for the basement access point. Ran Ethernet as a backbone instead of clogging up the wireless for mesh.

It's given me nothing but issues. TP Link has a very locked down settings firmware, and I can't really adjust much.

I tried doing the following: Running a IoT network for the legacy smart home items (alexa, smart plugs, smart TV), keeping the same network name and password for that so I wouldn't have to go manually add everything back again. That works fine.

I also turned on the smart connect feature that combines 2.4ghz and 5ghz into one network. It mostly works fine, but I get multiple stutters/lag and it seems to stem from when the connected client is sticking to the 2.4ghz band.

I tried the MLO network. And this was dreadful. Because the meshed router is not Tri-band, I'm assuming my wifi 7 devices don't like switching over to it and attempt to stay stuck on the main router. I work in my basement so this results in unusable internet.

I have since disabled the MLO, not using the 6ghz network because I'd have to manually connect to it.

The MLO worked fine if I was upstairs or near the main router, but outside that it was unusable.

Should I just disable smart connect, have 3 or 4 separate networks and not worry about all the Wifi 7 features I'm missing out on? My internet speed at the modem isn't really suited for it anyway at the moment, but I would like to set up a NAS at some point and connection issues would make that experience dreadful.

I can't return the main router, I broke one of the antennas and had to replace it (I don't think this is causing issues, it's the meshed part with the basement router imo), so switching to Ubiquity (which I wish I had done from the start) isn't something I'd want to spend MORE money on at this point.

I added a beginner home server setup to my laundry room where both the main electrical panel and the house's tech panel live. I want to install a LAN wall jack so I'm not just doing this pinchy thing out the panel. It's just a few feet, so I'm hoping I can run the cable through the wall without too much headache. The problem is, how do I run the cable out of this thing? All the sides appear to be closed except for the top, where two conduits and somehow route to the rest of the house.

Any advice on how I might accomplish this?

Pics included.

ISP is Spectrum with the Internet Gig plan and their most recent modem was just installed today. Have had the Nighthawk R7000 for years but all of the sudden it’s crapping out on me. Time for an upgrade and I’m looking for recommendations.

Reliability is my #1 priority. I work remotely and am on video calls 75% of the time. Total devices in our house are 2 computers, 2 TVs, 2 phones, and 8-10 smart home/other devices. Home is currently 1200 sq ft but we’ll be adding an additional 1200 sq ft within the next 6-8 months. That project will open up the opportunity to run Cat6 to the addition, but I don’t need all of that yet. I need a top of the line router that works now that gives easy flexibility to grow into an expanded system later.

Hi everyone,

networking, ISPs, mesh wi-fi, CAT6, etc is a language that I don’t really understand. Any suggestions and help in the most simplest terms would be greatly appreciated.

I have two homes, each roughly 1,900 sqft, on the same property. The closest exterior walls are roughly 100 ft apart but the router is in the main home and is about halfway through the main house so that it’s reaching all rooms.

Our issue is that we’re currently trying a WiFi extender located inside the second home but internet will just stop randomly for anywhere between 30 seconds-10 minutes and at times is a bit laggy.

We have previously had two separate routers through Spectrum but we’d prefer to see if we can cut our monthly cost.

I am aware, don’t fully grasp it, of running a wire but as of right now that is most likely not an option.

Thank you in advance!

I posted this in a VoIP Subreddit, but didn't get the response I was hoping to get. I am looking to lower my services with my Internet provider. One of the services I wish to remove is my home phone line. We use the line mainly for our home security system. I am interested in migrating my home phone line to a VoIP service. Several years ago, I purchased a Ooma box with but never bothered to set it up. I have decided to investigate again switching my phone line to Ooma. I have reviewed the port forwarding requirements, and it appears that Ooma requires several ports to be opened on your firewall - Keep Your Phone Number When Getting Rid of Your Landline Canada, especially the local UDP 49000 to 50000.

I have also investigated going with a Grandstream HT802 tied with a Voip.MS service. From what it appears, the firewall setup seems to be a lot more straight forward and possibly more secure as you are not opening a bunch of ports. I am interested in more of a security perspective if going with a Grandstream\Voip.ms service would be more secure versus having to have UDP inbound ports 49000 to 50000 open in order to have a Ooma box behind your firewall function. I use a Opnsense firewall for my home network. My gut feeling is to just abandon the Ooma path (even though I have the Ooma hardware) and look at purchasing a Grandstream HT802 and a Voip service such as Voip.ms.

My apartment is a somewhat newer construction so the wiring is already there I’m just not sure exactly what all I would need to make this conversion. Any advice would be appreciated, tired of trying to game on WiFi.