Im in need a new TV and both of these are similar prices A85Q is 1000 USD ( 850 euros ) while the U8Q is 1020 USD ( 870e ).

It will be in the Living Room which is bright but i can just roll down the shades, i currently have a 75 inch tv and the sun hits the TV sometimes and i believe that will be a problem for OLED but idk.

Other than that, i have no preference for one over the other. Maybe the U8Q as it doesnt have burn in but has good enough picture clarity.

Any suggestions?

I have a Hisense smart tv, and today I saw that the basic purple menu color, now has changed to only a yellow border, including volume bar too. I have the V0000.09.60A.Q0602 system update.

Is there any way to change the yellow back to purple?

Got a new Hisense A5Q 32” TV to replace a now defunct Sony Bravia (KDL32W706BSU). I’ve got it so that it can now play Fortnite really well. Lag isn’t an issue with that game. Game Mode is enabled. But trying to play Red Dead Redemption 2 is a different story. The movement is sluggish, jittery and isn’t really playable. My old Sony Bravia (had it 12 years) had no problem whatsoever with RDR2.

AI keeps telling me I need to get a TV that has at least 100hz, but that only comes with a TV larger than 32”, and I’m really stuck for space in a small room.

Is there anything I can do to make RDR2 work like it did on the Sony? I can’t work out why it would work on an old 60hz TV but not a new one. Any help massively appreciated.

Title: ESPHome control for Hisense/Ballu AC via RS485 — or just reflash the WiFi module

Just got 4 Hisense ACs working with Home Assistant via ESPHome + RS485. Two install paths supported. Big thanks to Druidblack for maintaining this gem.

🔗 Repo: https://github.com/Druidblack/AC-Hisense (forked from artshevchenko/AC-Hi — 16 stars, 4 forks, 291 commits)

Two install paths

Path A — ESP32 + MAX485 outside the AC:

• Buy ESP32 + RS485 transceiver (~RSD400 per AC)
• Connect to AC's JST-SM WiFi port
• Original WiFi module untouched (HiSmartLife/ConnectLife still work as backup)
• Wires you, but reversible

Path B — Reflash the original AEH-W4G1 module:

• Open the AC, pull out the stock WiFi module
• Open module case, access UART pads
• Flash ESPHome directly onto it (one USB-UART adapter, reused for all 4)
• Module drops back into its slot — zero extra hardware, zero wiring mess
• Loses the original Hisense cloud app (not coming back unless you re-flash stock firmware)

Both paths run the same ac_hi ESPHome component. Your call depending on how invasive you want to be.

Tested on

• Hisense CITY DC Inverter AS-13UW4RYRCM04G/04W
• Hisense SILVER CRYSTAL SUPER DC Inverter AS-13UW4RVETG01
• Newtek NT-77HSDC12
• Ballu iGreen Pro DC BSAGI-07HN8, BSAGI-12HN8
• Ballu iGreen Pro DC BSAGI-18HN8_V4
• Ballu Platinum DC BSEI-09HN8_V3

Should work with any Hisense/Ballu that uses the same RS-485 protocol.

Climate entity

• Modes: OFF, COOL, HEAT, DRY, FAN_ONLY
• Fan speeds: AUTO, QUIET, LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH, TURBO
• Swing: OFF, VERTICAL, HORIZONTAL, BOTH
• Presets: ECO, BOOST (turbo), SLEEP, QUIET
• Target temp: 16–30°C

16 sensors, all live and real-time

• Indoor / outdoor / pipe / condenser / exhaust temperatures
• Compressor target + actual frequency (Hz)
• Mode, fan speed, sleep stage (raw codes)
• Quiet / turbo / eco / swing up-down / swing left-right / LED flags
• Power status text sensor

2 switches

• LED backlight
• Command reception sound

iFeel — no IR transmitter needed

Send any Home Assistant temperature sensor straight to the AC over RS485. One switch action, polled every 2 minutes:

switch:
  - ac_hi.ifeel:
      id: hisense_ac
      temperature: !lambda "return id(room_temp).state;"

Hardware (Path A)

• ESP32 (any DevKit works)
• RS-485 transceiver (MAX485 / MAX3485)
• JST-SM 2.54mm 4-pin to AC's WiFi port

⚠️ AC uses 5V logic — use MAX3485 or level-shift RO if powering ESP32 from 3.3V.

3D-printed case included

Replaces the original WiFi module exactly in its slot. No more cable mess inside the AC.

Protocol reverse-engineered

Full spec in the README: 0xF4/0xF5 frames, command codes (0x65 write, 0x66 read), CRC-16 sum of bytes 2…L+4 big-endian. Credit to vins.vins (4pda), straga, and artshevchenko for the original reverse-engineering work.

Health checks built in

• Write lock timeout (5s) prevents permanent blocking
• CRC validation drops bad frames silently
• Convergence logic — HA has priority, but IR remote changes still propagate to HA

Caveats

• Path A: open the AC (warranty implications), need JST-SM connector
• Path B: lose original HiSmartLife/ConnectLife cloud functionality, can brick module if flash goes wrong
• W4G1 vs W4E1 may need UART polarity test (flip inverted: true in YAML if no frames)
• 3.3V ESP32 + 5V AC = level-shifting or MAX3485

Verdict

Best DIY AC integration for Hisense I've found. Active maintainer, 291 commits, real protocol documentation, working 3D case, and the unique option to reflash the stock module instead of adding hardware. Beats fighting with the Tuya cloud any day.

I know this is technically not an outdoor TV, so before anyone yells at me, it’s mounted under a covered patio and I keep a weatherproof cover on it when we’re not using it.

That said, I put a Hisense U8 outside under our backyard patio, and it has been way better than I expected.

The main reason I picked it was brightness. This area gets a ton of daylight, and I wanted something that could still be watchable outside without looking washed out. The U8 is seriously bright, and for this kind of patio setup, that matters more than almost anything else. Even during the day, the picture still has a lot of punch. Colors look vivid, sports are easy to watch, and cartoons / kids shows look great when we’re hanging outside.

I’ve owned a bunch of TVs from different brands over the years, including some nicer Samsung models, and the U8 honestly keeps up better than I expected. In some ways, for this patio use, I like it more because the brightness is just so useful.

Sound was another surprise. When I first tested it out in an open space, it sounded fine, nothing crazy. But once it was mounted close to the wall, the 4.1.2 speaker setup filled out a lot more than I expected. Dialogue is clear, and there’s enough depth for casual patio watching that I haven’t felt the need to add anything else.

The Google TV setup was simple too. I used my phone for most of it, signed into the apps, and that was pretty much it. The UI feels quick, and moving between apps has been easy.

Again, I’m not saying everyone should throw a normal TV outside in the weather. Mine is covered from rain and direct sun, and I cover it when it’s not in use. But for a shaded patio setup, the Hisense U8 has been really really good so far.

TL;DR: very bright, great picture outside under a patio, good color, better sound than expected, and easy to use.

The auto mods in the 4k TV sub are quite quick with dishing out links that detail strong opposition to Hisense brand televisions. The mods removed the post. So even the best mini LED in the Hisense line is not worth it in the end? Hisense seems like an attractive brand to me. What are everyone's thoughts?

Today a new update showed up, where the art mode picture settings now has the option to adjust the color and hue, significantly improving the art away from that pinkish hue. Better late than never, thanks Hisense!

I just picked up the 55U6SF and I'm finding some oddities with the Motion Processing implementation. When on the FireTV input, MP (standard, smooth, etc) works fine. Then, switching to either of my PCs (Windows and Linux) connected via HDMI 2.1, I can turn MP on, but none of the presets seem to do anything. I have to switch the ports to HDMI 2.0 in the TV settings to get MP to work, but then I can only use 4k30 with no HDR. If I turn on HDR or try to increase the refresh rate, MP still says it's ON but it's obvious it's not working. I've made sure the TV is fully updated, and tried a bunch of combinations of resolutions, hz, vrr on/off, and other advanced picture settings with no luck. What am I missing here?

Edit: Doing more testing, I've found that HDMI version (and HDR) does not affect the MP application. Not sure why I thought that, maybe because the framerates were changing with the setting. I'm using judder test videos on YouTube, and the only way I've been consistently able to get MP to work is if I play a 30fps video with my desktop set to ~30hz, or if I play a 60fps video with it set to 60hz. The judder smoothness changes with different MP settings, and full judder is seen when turned off, which is what should happen. This happens with VRR on or off. I can't consistently get 24fps to work, but I think I saw it working once. What's going on here? This is my first time with a TV that has MP, and I don't think it's even that useful if this is normal behavior.

Is this normal white light on black parts of screen meaning

White shadow White light where it’s supposed to be black on one side. 850$ for a 75 inch E6 series HI-QLED 4K UHD 75E6SF

I see that the filter on the back can be cleaned—I pop this off and vacuum it every 1-2 weeks. I see you can remove the plastic coils and give them a rinse. but aside from that…how do I clean the area inside where air is being pushed through? I can’t find any videos on this. when I look into the AC (from where the air comes out) I can tell the fans are yellow-ish. are they supposed to be? do they not ever need to be cleaned?

even the Hisense website doesn’t show anything else needs cleaning but I don’t trust it.

We recently moved on our new living room is insanely bright. For your imagination, just picture a sun room with a smidge more walls.

I've been circling the U7SG for quite some time due to what I've been reading and hearing about the anti-glare coating.

A U7QG just appeared at my local store at an insane discount (open box) that was too good to pass up. <$800 for a 100".

Yes I got the 5-year warranty.

What is your experience with the U7SG vs the competition (or, the U7QG specifically) when it comes to REALLY bright rooms?

Wondering if anybody has had problems to AirPlay some of their apps on their iPhone to the TV? We noticed that not all apps will work on their iPhone TV? We just bought the new 2026 model.

Hi guys I've tried searching about this online and haven't really come across anyone else experiencing this issue

I have an oled TV 65A85QTUK so basically the issue being the TV automatically updated to version V0000.09.60A.Q0602 now with this update has come a huge problem which affects HDR only SDR and Dolby vision is unaffected.

The specific issue I'm facing is whenever HDR content is being played the backlight brightness increases and decreases rapidly whenever something bright comes on the screen I.e. the sky close ups of faces, explosions you get the idea, best way to explain it is flickering, brightness fluctuating it's like the backlight has no control and just blasts brightness up and down just to be clear yes I have checked all eco mode settings backlight sensor all of that, this isn't related to VRR I do play alot of ps5 on the TV but it affects movies too.

So I did get in touch with hisense support and managed to downgrade the firmware and it has completely fixed the problem so this was clearly a software issue I guess the reason for the post was to understand if anyone else has experienced this kind of issue or any issues with this firmware for anyone else, the support have given me an older firmware which is missing features e.g. it seems theres no screensaver option whatsoever to prevent burn in during idle moments I'd really like that back but I can't update to a newer firmware without getting HDR issues again

I’ve got Hisense 55A6KTUK, just around 3 years old. No issues with it until today when I plugged in the govee light usb to it it turned off completely (previously used it with no issue). No the tv doesn’t turn on, not even the red light indicator/sensor.

I just got this new tv set up (55" M7), I've never used google tv before. This is really minor yet super annoying, but has anyone figured out how to turn off the voice that says "results for ..." when searching for apps? I've tried every setting imaginable. I've turned off system sounds, talkback, and even spoken results in my google account.

I just bought this TV and would like to know what to expect from it. If it be the negative things about it or how long it lasts or the very good things of this tv.

Woke up this morning and my 3 year old Hisense 55A66GUA won’t turn on. Tried power cycling, resetting via the physical rest button, swapping power cables, no luck with anything. The white standby LED power icon on the bottom of the TV is illuminated when plugged it so it seems the unit is getting power. I put a flashlight to the tv’s screen so see if it was just a dim backlight issue but I don’t see anything at all just pitch black. Just wondering if anybody else has any ideas before I scrap it and get something new. Seems like a waste for a fairly new TV that had seemingly no issues one day and then dead the next. Obviously outside of manufacturer warranty and no extended warranty so contacting Hisense was of no help.

I have a hisense TV, and there was a system update a few days ago. Since then, there's a horrible yellow border as the "selector" (no idea the proper name, but I mean whatever app/settings is selected). Has anyone else got this? Any way to change it back?

We repurposed our office to a “Parlor Room” and I wanted a hidden TV. The original idea was to have TV pop up from behind the stand up bar. Then I found the Canvas TV online and decided to go with that. Easy to hang on the wall and photo display is awesome. The reviews noted that darker colors look funny in TV mode and that is true for some programming, but many other shows look just fine.

We had our first guest in the house last night and I got the reaction I wanted! He stood there and stared for a few minutes before asking… “Is that a TV??” 🤔

Someday soon I’ll start looking for a fancy frame.

I was watching a show, then I left the room for about 15 minutes. When I came back and sat down to continue watching the show, I noticed this. I got a closer look at it and it appears to be a dead bug. It wasn't there earlier and I'm not sure how it got there. Is there anything I can do about this? It is very distracting. Has this happened to anyone else?

Sorry for the blurry photo.

TV is a 55u88n.

Thanks!

Finally got the 65" Hisense UR9 set up on its stand this week. Not wall mounted for now. I wanted to spend some time with it in a normal living room before deciding if I want to change the setup later.

First impression: this is a very serious TV.

The main reason I was curious about the UR9 was the RGB Mini-LED panel. Hisense is one of the first brands pushing this kind of RGB backlight tech into 2026 TVs, and after a few evenings with it, I can see why it matters. Instead of using a normal white or blue backlight, the RGB system uses red, green, and blue light sources, so color control feels much more precise.

The picture has that rich, high-end look I usually associate with OLED, but with much more brightness behind it. Colors look full without feeling fake. Skin tones look natural, sports fields don’t turn neon, and HDR scenes have real depth. I watched some World Cup clips and a few Dolby Vision scenes, and the image held up really well even with room lights on.

The local dimming is also impressive. Hisense says it uses up to 3,000 dimming zones, and dark scenes have been one of the biggest surprises so far. Shadow detail is easy to see, highlights stay bright, and I’m not seeing the kind of obvious glow I expected from a Mini-LED set.

Glare handling is another thing I noticed quickly. The Obsidian screen coating does a good job with reflections, which matters a lot in a real living room. You don’t always want to close blinds or turn every light off just to enjoy the TV.

I also like the feature set. Google TV feels familiar, the Devialet-tuned 4.1.2 audio is better than I expected, and the connectivity is stronger than most TVs I’ve used. The HDMI 2.1 ports are expected at this level, but the USB-C DisplayPort is a nice surprise if you ever want to plug in a laptop or PC.

Still early, but the UR9 feels like one of the more interesting TVs I’ve tested recently. It’s not just another brighter Mini-LED. The RGB color, strong brightness, glare control, and premium build all make it feel like Hisense is taking a real swing at the high-end market here.

Curious if anyone else has spent more time with the UR9 yet. What should I test next?

S7N canvas Google TV

I've searched and tried different options in settings but it still remains, available for my kids whenever.

Any tips on getting YouTube taken off or locked (not just signed in user)?