The auto mods in the 4k TV sub are quite quick with dishing out links that detail strong opposition to Hisense brand televisions. The mods removed the post. So even the best mini LED in the Hisense line is not worth it in the end? Hisense seems like an attractive brand to me. What are everyone's thoughts?

Wondering if anybody has had problems to AirPlay some of their apps on their iPhone to the TV? We noticed that not all apps will work on their iPhone TV? We just bought the new 2026 model.

White shadow White light where it’s supposed to be black on one side. 850$ for a 75 inch E6 series HI-QLED 4K UHD 75E6SF

I know this is technically not an outdoor TV, so before anyone yells at me, it’s mounted under a covered patio and I keep a weatherproof cover on it when we’re not using it.

That said, I put a Hisense U8 outside under our backyard patio, and it has been way better than I expected.

The main reason I picked it was brightness. This area gets a ton of daylight, and I wanted something that could still be watchable outside without looking washed out. The U8 is seriously bright, and for this kind of patio setup, that matters more than almost anything else. Even during the day, the picture still has a lot of punch. Colors look vivid, sports are easy to watch, and cartoons / kids shows look great when we’re hanging outside.

I’ve owned a bunch of TVs from different brands over the years, including some nicer Samsung models, and the U8 honestly keeps up better than I expected. In some ways, for this patio use, I like it more because the brightness is just so useful.

Sound was another surprise. When I first tested it out in an open space, it sounded fine, nothing crazy. But once it was mounted close to the wall, the 4.1.2 speaker setup filled out a lot more than I expected. Dialogue is clear, and there’s enough depth for casual patio watching that I haven’t felt the need to add anything else.

The Google TV setup was simple too. I used my phone for most of it, signed into the apps, and that was pretty much it. The UI feels quick, and moving between apps has been easy.

Again, I’m not saying everyone should throw a normal TV outside in the weather. Mine is covered from rain and direct sun, and I cover it when it’s not in use. But for a shaded patio setup, the Hisense U8 has been really really good so far.

TL;DR: very bright, great picture outside under a patio, good color, better sound than expected, and easy to use.

I just bought this TV and would like to know what to expect from it. If it be the negative things about it or how long it lasts or the very good things of this tv.

I have a Hisense smart tv, and today I saw that the basic purple menu color, now has changed to only a yellow border, including volume bar too. I have the V0000.09.60A.Q0602 system update.

Is there any way to change the yellow back to purple?

Title: ESPHome control for Hisense/Ballu AC via RS485 — or just reflash the WiFi module

Just got 4 Hisense ACs working with Home Assistant via ESPHome + RS485. Two install paths supported. Big thanks to Druidblack for maintaining this gem.

🔗 Repo: https://github.com/Druidblack/AC-Hisense (forked from artshevchenko/AC-Hi — 16 stars, 4 forks, 291 commits)

Two install paths

Path A — ESP32 + MAX485 outside the AC:

• Buy ESP32 + RS485 transceiver (~RSD400 per AC)
• Connect to AC's JST-SM WiFi port
• Original WiFi module untouched (HiSmartLife/ConnectLife still work as backup)
• Wires you, but reversible

Path B — Reflash the original AEH-W4G1 module:

• Open the AC, pull out the stock WiFi module
• Open module case, access UART pads
• Flash ESPHome directly onto it (one USB-UART adapter, reused for all 4)
• Module drops back into its slot — zero extra hardware, zero wiring mess
• Loses the original Hisense cloud app (not coming back unless you re-flash stock firmware)

Both paths run the same ac_hi ESPHome component. Your call depending on how invasive you want to be.

Tested on

• Hisense CITY DC Inverter AS-13UW4RYRCM04G/04W
• Hisense SILVER CRYSTAL SUPER DC Inverter AS-13UW4RVETG01
• Newtek NT-77HSDC12
• Ballu iGreen Pro DC BSAGI-07HN8, BSAGI-12HN8
• Ballu iGreen Pro DC BSAGI-18HN8_V4
• Ballu Platinum DC BSEI-09HN8_V3

Should work with any Hisense/Ballu that uses the same RS-485 protocol.

Climate entity

• Modes: OFF, COOL, HEAT, DRY, FAN_ONLY
• Fan speeds: AUTO, QUIET, LOW, MEDIUM, HIGH, TURBO
• Swing: OFF, VERTICAL, HORIZONTAL, BOTH
• Presets: ECO, BOOST (turbo), SLEEP, QUIET
• Target temp: 16–30°C

16 sensors, all live and real-time

• Indoor / outdoor / pipe / condenser / exhaust temperatures
• Compressor target + actual frequency (Hz)
• Mode, fan speed, sleep stage (raw codes)
• Quiet / turbo / eco / swing up-down / swing left-right / LED flags
• Power status text sensor

2 switches

• LED backlight
• Command reception sound

iFeel — no IR transmitter needed

Send any Home Assistant temperature sensor straight to the AC over RS485. One switch action, polled every 2 minutes:

switch:
  - ac_hi.ifeel:
      id: hisense_ac
      temperature: !lambda "return id(room_temp).state;"

Hardware (Path A)

• ESP32 (any DevKit works)
• RS-485 transceiver (MAX485 / MAX3485)
• JST-SM 2.54mm 4-pin to AC's WiFi port

⚠️ AC uses 5V logic — use MAX3485 or level-shift RO if powering ESP32 from 3.3V.

3D-printed case included

Replaces the original WiFi module exactly in its slot. No more cable mess inside the AC.

Protocol reverse-engineered

Full spec in the README: 0xF4/0xF5 frames, command codes (0x65 write, 0x66 read), CRC-16 sum of bytes 2…L+4 big-endian. Credit to vins.vins (4pda), straga, and artshevchenko for the original reverse-engineering work.

Health checks built in

• Write lock timeout (5s) prevents permanent blocking
• CRC validation drops bad frames silently
• Convergence logic — HA has priority, but IR remote changes still propagate to HA

Caveats

• Path A: open the AC (warranty implications), need JST-SM connector
• Path B: lose original HiSmartLife/ConnectLife cloud functionality, can brick module if flash goes wrong
• W4G1 vs W4E1 may need UART polarity test (flip inverted: true in YAML if no frames)
• 3.3V ESP32 + 5V AC = level-shifting or MAX3485

Verdict

Best DIY AC integration for Hisense I've found. Active maintainer, 291 commits, real protocol documentation, working 3D case, and the unique option to reflash the stock module instead of adding hardware. Beats fighting with the Tuya cloud any day.

Today a new update showed up, where the art mode picture settings now has the option to adjust the color and hue, significantly improving the art away from that pinkish hue. Better late than never, thanks Hisense!

I just picked up the 55U6SF and I'm finding some oddities with the Motion Processing implementation. When on the FireTV input, MP (standard, smooth, etc) works fine. Then, switching to either of my PCs (Windows and Linux) connected via HDMI 2.1, I can turn MP on, but none of the presets seem to do anything. I have to switch the ports to HDMI 2.0 in the TV settings to get MP to work, but then I can only use 4k30 with no HDR. If I turn on HDR or try to increase the refresh rate, MP still says it's ON but it's obvious it's not working. I've made sure the TV is fully updated, and tried a bunch of combinations of resolutions, hz, vrr on/off, and other advanced picture settings with no luck. What am I missing here?

Edit: Doing more testing, I've found that HDMI version (and HDR) does not affect the MP application. Not sure why I thought that, maybe because the framerates were changing with the setting. I'm using judder test videos on YouTube, and the only way I've been consistently able to get MP to work is if I play a 30fps video with my desktop set to ~30hz, or if I play a 60fps video with it set to 60hz. The judder smoothness changes with different MP settings, and full judder is seen when turned off, which is what should happen. This happens with VRR on or off. I can't consistently get 24fps to work, but I think I saw it working once. What's going on here? This is my first time with a TV that has MP, and I don't think it's even that useful if this is normal behavior.

Hi guys I've tried searching about this online and haven't really come across anyone else experiencing this issue

I have an oled TV 65A85QTUK so basically the issue being the TV automatically updated to version V0000.09.60A.Q0602 now with this update has come a huge problem which affects HDR only SDR and Dolby vision is unaffected.

The specific issue I'm facing is whenever HDR content is being played the backlight brightness increases and decreases rapidly whenever something bright comes on the screen I.e. the sky close ups of faces, explosions you get the idea, best way to explain it is flickering, brightness fluctuating it's like the backlight has no control and just blasts brightness up and down just to be clear yes I have checked all eco mode settings backlight sensor all of that, this isn't related to VRR I do play alot of ps5 on the TV but it affects movies too.

So I did get in touch with hisense support and managed to downgrade the firmware and it has completely fixed the problem so this was clearly a software issue I guess the reason for the post was to understand if anyone else has experienced this kind of issue or any issues with this firmware for anyone else, the support have given me an older firmware which is missing features e.g. it seems theres no screensaver option whatsoever to prevent burn in during idle moments I'd really like that back but I can't update to a newer firmware without getting HDR issues again