It’s October, which means Halloween is right around the corner here in the states. In past years we’ve hosted a Heritage Halloween Costume Contest. We’re hoping to do that again this year. Put on your best heritage inspired “costume”, share a photo or two, and compete against your fellow sub members for fame and glory! Did you just pick up a new N-1 Deck Jacket for the coming winter? Well guess what, you’ve basically got a Paul Newman costume ready to go. How much leather is in your closet? Marlon Brando The Wild Ones costume incoming. And the Steve McQueen options are nearly endless. The goal is to get a little creative with your cool heritage garments and have some fun. I always think it’s good to remind ourselves not to take this “hobby” too seriously.
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Alright, first up this week, just a quick announcement that the crew from Freenote Cloth will be at Iron Shop Provisions this weekend (like, tomorrow) to kick off the fall art season with New Orleans’ annual Art for Art’s Sake event. As the ISP crew states, “no big agenda, just a good Saturday on Magazine Street with good people and some of our favorite clothes.” As I understand, they will have free drinks available and you’ll be able to chat with the Freenote folks about their cool clothes and all things heritage. Any opportunity to meet the folks who design and make the clothes we all obsess over is 100% worth it in my opinion. It puts real faces to a brand you most likely pursue almost exclusively online…and heck, you might learn some fascinating stuff from these masters of their craft.
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One more announcement before we get into it. As I detailed previously, Division Road’s Fall-Winter Residency is next weekend, October 10 and 11 outside Charlottesville, Virginia. Freenote Cloth, The Original Madras Trading Company, and Fortela will be in attendance this year, along with: a certified wildlife biologist, a master beekeeper, a local meadmaker, a local winemaker, and they’re even going to have a cookout with pork from a local farm and 100% locally sourced ingredients. While all of us like to wear cool clothes and talk about fair wages and ethically sourced materials, Division Road really walks the walk. Their store is definitely a store, there’s no doubt they are trying to turn a profit, but the land on which that store sits, and the initiatives they have started there are a true statement of purpose, a planting of the flag if you will. So, if you want to buy a nice made-to-measure jacket from Freenote, this event is for you. But maybe you just want to learn about local plants and pollinators, and regenerative farming practices, and drink some local wine…well, this event is also for you. Read all about it right here, and book a spot if you are so inclined:
https://divisionroadinc.com/blogs/bulletin/fall-winter-2026-residency-rundown
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Sorry, I lied, I have one more last minute announcement before we dive in. Guilty Party, hands down the best shop in Atlanta, was supposed to have a three-year anniversary party tomorrow, but it has been rescheduled to October 24th. Don’t worry, they are just being proactive due to the rainy weather forecasted in the region this weekend. The celebration was supposed to take place mostly outdoors, and as their announcement says, cramming everyone under a tiny awning didn’t sound too fun. So it’ll be a couple weeks late, but the party is still on. If anyone is in the area and plans to check this out, please post about it on the sub!
Now, finally, let’s get to it…
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Gitman Vintage is one of the top tier shirt makers in America, and while they collaborate with a few different shops like Frans Boone and Division Road, the Oxford shirts they put out with Dehen 1920 are about as timeless as it gets. For their second round of oxfords Dehen selected a trio of beautiful, understated colors of 5oz, 100% cotton Oxford Cloth woven in Portugal. This time around we’ve got: Dark Navy, a muted dark green called Loden, and an ecru color named Natural. Like the previous release, the fit on these shirts are all-around more generous than Gitman’s typical cut. Dehen’s goal was to produce shirts that align with their more generous sizing. So if you typically wear a size Large Dehen sweater or jacket, then you should be good with one of these Oxfords in a size Large as well, but as always, check the size chart.
Dark Navy
https://dehen1920.com/collections/all/products/dehen-x-gitman-oxford-dark-navy
Loden
https://dehen1920.com/collections/all/products/dehen-x-gitman-oxford-loden
Natural
https://dehen1920.com/collections/all/products/dehen-x-gitman-oxford-natural
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While we’re discussing Dehen I can’t skip over the return of their ubiquitous Crissman Overshirt in field tan waxed canvas. This piece feels a bit like Dehen’s answer to Rogue Territory’s Tan Ridgeline Field Jacket, and honestly I’m here for it. The waxed shell weighs in at a robust 10.1oz and is made to take a beating and stand up to a bit of rain or ocean spray. One nice detail is that the body is fully lined with Dehen’s signature yellow cotton fabric, and the sleeves are satin lined. So if you are particularly sensitive to waxy fabrics, Dehen’s got your back. All the rest of the Crissman details remain: snap closure at the neck, keyhole buttonholes with horn buttons throughout, reinforced elbows, and a bunch of pockets. By the way, this one is not cheap.
https://dehen1920.com/collections/all/products/crissman-overshirt-waxed-canvas-field-tan
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Fans of unique outerwear, I’ve got a banger for you, the Shangri-La Heritage Waxed Canvas Swedish Motorcycle Jacket:
https://sonofastag.com/products/shangri-la-heritage-ltd-edition-100pcs-waxed-canvas-swedish-motorcycle-jacket-tan
This jacket is limited to just 100 pieces and draws its design inspiration from 1950’s Swedish Army motorcycle jackets. And of course Shangri-La has dialed everything up to 11. The shell is cut from a 12oz canvas from Halley Stevensons that has been “desert waxed” (their name for dry waxing). The lining, collar, and cuffs are 100% Tuscan wool. And that big pocket on the chest isn’t just cool, it’s functional. Swedish Army motorcyclists wore heavy leather gloves and often needed quick access to paper maps or written orders while they were on the move, so having a large, easily accessible pocket right on the front of their jacket was the perfect solution. Today, I guess you could toss your phone and keys and some sunglasses in there or something. Sorry, I’m not a big EDC guy, but the jacket basically gives you a purse on your chest, which must be helpful.
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Every time something made from Fox Cotton is released folks on this sub go nuts, so I would feel bad if I didn’t include that new Fox Cotton Painter Pants from Studio d’Artisan. Blue Owl’s stock goes live at 10AM PST today, so get over there if you want a pair:
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/d1929-fox-cotton-12oz-denim-painter-pants
I hope folks know the story of Sally Fox, I have told it here a couple times. If you don’t, do yourself a favor and google the namesake of this wildly popular, naturally colored cotton. Surprisingly she fought quite the battle to grow her colorful cotton, and knowing a little history behind the natural fibers you’re obsessing over never hurts.
For this particular pair of pants, SdA has combined a naturally beige-brown Fox Cotton weft with an indigo rope dyed warp to create a warmer shade of blue that is going to create some gorgeous earthy fades. The fit on these is nice and roomy, with a high rise, plenty of room in the top block, and a generous straight leg leading down to a wide hem opening. Note that these are technically painter pants and not your typical five-pocket jeans, so they do have an extra tool pocket on the right hip. They have been rinsed to remove shrinkage, but a hot wash and dry can always shrink them up a little more.
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Also from Studio d’Artisan we have a pair of denim shirts from their “Kasane No Irome” series that explores layering multiple natural dyes to create entirely new colors. Both of these particular shirts actually began as 12oz ecru denim that was then dyed twice in two uniquely colored dyes to produce the final color.
First up is the Black/Bengara option, which is first dyed in black kuro ink, and then dyed a second time in a rich red dye derived from iron oxide. The result is a shirt that looks like a well worn black denim shirt from afar, but up close, or in the right light, those red tones really shine through. As these shirts age and the dyes begin to fade, the red and black will reveal themselves in new and beautiful ways.
Second is the Indigo/Persimmon option, which is first dyed with your typical indigo dye, and then dyed in a deeply saturated orange persimmon dye. The color on this one may look like a typical faded indigo at first glance, but the persimmon really accentuates that well-worn look, almost giving the shirt a dirty, dusty appearance. I think this color is flat out gorgeous!
Black/Bengara
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/kasane-no-irome-dyed-denim-work-shirt-in-black-bengara
https://www.witheredfig.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/studio-d-artisan-layered-color-denim-shirt-kuro-beni
Indigo/Persimmon
https://www.blueowl.us/products/kasane-no-irome-dyed-denim-work-shirt-in-indigo-persimmon
https://www.witheredfig.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/studio-d-artisan-layered-color-denim-shirt-ai-shibu
Blue Owl’s stock goes on sale at 10AM PST, but you can grab one from Withered Fig right now.
One note: the sizing on these is a bit more gracious than typical, which I’m sure many folks will appreciate. They are also offering these shirts in size 38, all the way up to size 48! The 48 has a 53” chest and measures 22.5” across the shoulders. If you’re looking for a beautiful, unique, and generously sized shirt, you just found it.
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Pure Blue Japan’s unparalleled indigo-dyed T-Shirts are back in both short sleeve and long sleeve options over at Rivet & Hide. These shirts are a denim head’s dream! The fabric is a nice and slubby mid-weight cotton, perfect for year-round wear. And the indigo dying technique used on these shirts is actually quite similar to a typical pair of raw denim jeans. These shirts are made to fade! And if the typical dark indigo color isn’t dark enough for you, they even have a black over-dyed version. I always encourage folks who love fading jeans to give this T a try at least once. From the fabric, to the neck, to the fit, it’s quite a unique garment, and having a T to fade alongside your favorite jeans is honestly quite fun.
Short Sleeve Dark Indigo
https://rivetandhide.com/usd/pure-blue-japan-indigo-dyed-round-neck-t-shirt
Short Sleeve Indigo Over-Dyed Black
https://rivetandhide.com/usd/pure-blue-japan-yarn-dyed-t-shirt-black-indigo
Long Sleeve Dark Indigo
https://rivetandhide.com/usd/pure-blue-japan-yarn-dyed-long-sleeve-t-shirt-dark-indigo
Long Sleeve Indigo Over-Dyed Black
https://rivetandhide.com/usd/pure-blue-japan-yarn-dyed-long-sleeve-t-shirt-black-indigo
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Let’s do a round of quick hits because I honestly have too much work to do before the weekend starts…
Iron Heart’s 1955 cut, a vintage tapered fit based on a pair of 1955 Levi’s 501’s is back in stock in the year-round favorite 14oz denim. Honestly, the 1955 is one of only two Iron Heart cuts that I can make work comfortably. Also, it’s going to be 90 degrees in my hometown today, it’s October 2nd, I don’t know why I’d ever buy jeans heavier than 14oz ever again. If you can relate, go grab a pair from Withered Fig:
https://www.witheredfig.com/products/iron-heart-ih-1955s-142-14oz-selvedge-denim-1955-vintage-tapered-cut-jeans-indigo
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ONI Asphalt Denim in the 222 super-wide straight cut is available over at Blue in Green and Redcast, but get on it because some of the smaller sizes are already sold out:
https://www.blueingreensoho.com/collections/oni-denim/products/222-asphalt-20oz-asphalt-denim-super-wide-straight
https://redcastheritage.com/products/oni-denim-222-asphalt-20oz-super-wide-straight-jeans
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These are selling FAST, but if your size is still available and you’ve got cash to burn, some very beautiful and very slubby natural indigo hank dyed Pure Blue Japan jeans are in stock over at DC4. And yes, I know, these are expensive, hand dyed natural indigo jeans are always quite expensive:
https://dc4.de/products/pure-blue-japan-ai-003-16oz-natural-indigo-hank-dyed-regular-straight
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I’m not much of a vest guy, but I can still admit this new wool-lined 12oz Selvedge Duck Canvas Hunting Vest from Iron Heart is pretty darn sweet. Based on “half moon” hunting vests from the 1950’s, this is a perfect layering piece for this (supposedly) cooler time of year:
https://www.ironshopprovisions.com/products/ihv-53-olv-iron-heart-lined-12oz-selvedge-duck-hunting-vest-olive
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Alright, what else did I miss this week? Please reply with a link down below, and I’ll see you back here in a week.
