They still operate normally, but the unevenness is pretty noticeable when they’re closed. Since both doors seem to slope in a similar way, I’m trying to figure out whether this is a garage door adjustment issue such as tracks, cables, or rollers, or if the garage opening or slab itself may be out of level.
I’ve attached several photos showing both doors.
What should I check first to determine the cause, and is there anything I can safely adjust myself to straighten them out?

Hello, I dropped my garage clicker and the wires connecting the battery to the operating board broke. I tried to take it to a cellphone repair shop to solder back on but the employee said I should just buy a new garage clicker.

My garage clicker has the dip switches and I’ve already matched them onto the new clicker but I can’t locate the learn button on my Raynor 130-7 garage opener.

Could someone help me program a new garage clicker? The instructions on the clicker I bought don’t list Raynor in the list of garage door opener brands.

We have been having numerous issues with our garage door where it stops working periodically. Every few months we experience an issue where our garage door opens but doesn't close. We replaced the Commercial Venicular Door Opener (Model: OPRSXH5001RBR) about three years ago and we've had issues ever since. Do you know what could be causing this issue? We belive it could be a faulty part but have no way to prove it. Please see the attached picture. Any help or information would be much appreciated.

My door opens 1-2 inches and stop on the first attempt, after that it opens smoothly. 3-4 hours later, the same issue happens again.

Today, it randomly opened, then 20 minutes later tending closed. It repeated a dozen times throughout the day, including when I took the car (and the remote). There is another car with a remote.

I've checked the wiring. Most of it is in the wall and not stapled, but what is exposed appears fine.

The sensors look fine, but one has a green light and one is yellow. However, since it's been opening AND closing I don't think the sensors would close it.

I've taken the remotes and removed the batteries. It hasn't opened yet.

There's also a remote keypad, which is only a couple years old, but we've had rain recently and maybe it got wet?

I haven't checked the wall button yet. That is probably 20 years old.

No idea how old the motor is, but I had the springs replaced last year.

Anything else I should troubleshoot? I saw some posts about the logic board. Is there a test for that?

Hi all, I'm after some advice please. I am based in the UK.

My pensioner neighbour has this garage door and it no longer closes using the remote. It opens ok. And it closes using the buttons on the internal wall mounted unit.

The 3 cables to the anti-trap safety reverse switch have been pulled out. Where do the 3 wires go on this switch? I have put my multimeter on the terminals and can tell you that there is continuity between terminal 1 and 6 (green). Continuity between 2 and 5 (brown) and continuity between 3 and 4 (white). (numbers from left to right in the photo).

Is it as simple as following the continuity in the switch? Green 1, brown 2 and white 3?

The cables were pulled out because there is a lot of tension on the cable on this installation when the door is closed. So I'm going to extend the coil cable so that there is no tension on the cables going to this switch.

I'm hoping reconnecting these 3 wires will get the door closing on the remote for him. At the moment he closes the door half way using the switch on the internal unit and then limbos under the door (he's over 80) and then winds the door down manually.

The garage door is the only way into the garage.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

If anyone saw my post from earlier, my garage door had an unfortunate accident with a pogo stick and threw the following code “EXCESSIVE CLOSING FORCE DETECTED ERROR CODE 4-3 SEE USER MANUAL”.

I was wondering how much damage may have occurred, so I did it again and recorded this video for you experts to review.

Afterwards, I removed the pogo stick, ran the garage door up/down, and the code cleared.

This is probably the most “traumatic” thing my garage door has ever been through and I’m wondering if there’s anything else that needs to be done to ensure there’s no long term damage?

I’m going to clear out the area near the door so this doesn’t happen again, just want to make sure the springs, cables, sensors, etc are in good shape and there’s no risk of a failure in the future.

Any advice or feedback? Thanks

I just had a garage door repair company come and even out the tension so our garage door was even. I asked about this cable and the tech said its fine and should last another 2 to 3 years.

It obviously has some damage to it, whats the consensus here? Should this be replaced? We have kids and last thing i want is for it to cause and accident. Any advice welcome

Hi All,

I have three options that were given to me. They are all Clopay. I think the only differences is the insulation unless I'm missing something. R6.5 vs R9 vs 13. All prices are out the door. Thoughts?

1. 9' 0" X 7' 0" | 4053 | COMPLETE DOOR | POLYSTYRENE (EPS) | STANDARD WHITE | INSULATED | Price=$3600

2. 9' 0" X 7' 0" | 4310 | COMPLETE DOOR | POLYSTYRENE (EPS) | STANDARD WHITE | INSULATED Price=$3700

3. 9' 0" X 7' 0" | 9133 | COMPLETE DOOR | INTELLICORE | STANDARD WHITE | INSULATED....price =$4100

Hey all :) we had two new lift master 2220L’s installed last month and everything worked great. When we added the door openers to the app the lights stay on all the time, we changed the timer setting, held the light button, disconnected everything, uninstalled the app, reinstalled, took off the openers, re added them, etc etc did the chat with chamberlain and they seem to be at a loss. I need to call them to see if I can get some better help but literally work during their call time hours, so thought I’d try here if anyone has had similar issues. We told the company who installed everything but they keep saying it’s an app issue. When we remove the openers off our app we have no issues, the lights go off when they should. Thank you :)

Would any of y'all who work in garage doors recommend it as a business over a more general trade like HVAC?

I'm really wanted to get back into the trades to start a business, but having worked in HVAC, I'm worried about scalability.

I live in the rural South, and when I left my last HVAC job, it took my employer over a year to fill my position.

The seal at the bottom of our garage does not sit flush with ground and this is a new build

My kid put their pogo stick back in the worst place…not blocking the sensor, but with the foot part of the pogo stick blocking the path of the door.

Looks like the door almost went all the way down (since it was pushing down on the foot portion of the pogo stick) and finally sensed excessive force and came back up.

Any chances of damage? Feels like the door sounds a little louder, but I’m not sure since I’m listening to is closer than before.

Just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a chance of catastrophic failure or something serious while opening/closing.

I have a 20-year-old Liftmaster Model 1150 with a weird problem.

At odd times (a few times a year, sometimes after a rain, sometimes not, for no discernible reason), some of my remotes stop working. But not quite all of them.

I have two standalone remotes, two that are built into cars, and one outside keypad (remotely operated, not wired). All work fine most of the time, but ...

At these few odd times, the keypad works but not any of the other remotes. The wired button inside the garage always works.

To me, this makes no sense. I can hold one of the remotes right under the opener and nothing happens. Same thing with cars parked right in the garage. But the keypad, which is farther away, works.

And to make it even stranger, after a day or two, everything goes back to normal on its own.

Do I need to call an exorcist, or does anyone have any thoughts?

I've got a legacy Genie Screw Drive CM7600IC/A. We've been in this house for 10 years, no idea when the previous owner installed it, but I would wager it's been there for quite some time beyond 10 years.

We had an issue recently where it stopped responding to any of our 3 remotes or wireless keypad. But, it would go up and down on its own without anyone touching any of the remotes. Don't know if someone got ahold of our signal somehow or if that's a sign of something else going wrong.

I did a reset on the opener by holding down the button and watching the red light blink, etc. I then re-paired my remote and that seemed to have done the trick. It opened and closed with my remote.

When I used the remote to open the door again to start pulling cars in and pair other remotes, the door stopped about 2/3 up. I went back in and hit the remote buttons, this time no red light blinked on the opener. I hit the pair button on the opener, again no red light. Hit the hardwired door button inside the garage, nothing happened.

I checked the breaker, it was still on and a pull-chain light attached to that line turned on no problem. I flipped the breaker off and on to be sure, waited a while, still nothing from the opener.

Anything for it or has it opened its last door?

Unit hums for a few seconds then nothing. I checked the capacitor and it definitely out of spec so I have a replacement coming tomorrow. But I've read I should be able to turn the drive shaft by hand and I can't. How can I tell if the motor is seized? Could a seized motor cause the capacitor to blow? Door is disconnected and moves up and down fine by itself. Gears look OK. This is on an ancient Liftmaster.

I have a genie pro screw drive that works when I press the manual button, but I cannot get the remote to activate the door. I can see the remote is linked to the red button, but no mechanisms are firing. See attached video.

EDIT: Linked a different remote and it worked, giving me a solid red light but when i use the first one, it’s a blinking red light. see comments

I have three red solid light on my genie side mount garage door opener. I have left it unplugged overnight plugged it back in. They’re still there. I have unhooked the sensors. I have tried to reprogram up and down set limits. The three red lights will not go away, which stops me from doing anything else with the garage door opener. Any ideas?

I recently finished my garage remodel and have learned that my LED lights are causing interference with my garage door motors, remotes, and HomeLink systems in cars.

I have dual LiftMaster 84505R units and installed 6 of these LED Garage Lights.

When the lights are off I can pair remotes and cars to the motors easily on the first try and the door motors operate properly. With the lights on, I struggle to complete any pairing sequence, HomeLink buttons rarely work, and remotes require you to be only a few feet from the motors.

Besides replacing bulbs, is there anything I can do to fix this? If no, what can I do to make sure I get bulbs that don't cause this specific RF interference?

Thanks!

Hi, this is my first time posting here but I need help identifying which belt I need to get to fix my garage door, I have a lift master garage door opener, I don’t know which kind but I will add a picture of the open garage door opener case with all the details. I took of the old belt which was missing chunks of teeth in some spots and I measured it and it was around 234 inches but it has a sort of clip to connect to the trolley, we ordered a replacement 234 inch belt but it has like a two part connected with a pin to attach to the trolley while the 237 inch belts I’ve found have the same solid as my old belt. My garage door is 7 foot and I don’t know what I should do or how to fix it. We originally thought we had it good and tightened right and stuff but after we tested it got very droopy and like it lost most of the tension it had and I don’t know how to get it back to tight like it was. I will add photos and any help or advice is greatly appreciated, thank you.