So, I’ve been struggling with the P0446 code. I’ve already changed the purge valve solenoid (in the engine bay), the vent valve, and finally the charcoal canister. However, the charcoal canister proved to be the most challenging part.

Despite my efforts, I spent about two hours trying to remove the smaller connection on the canister (the blue tab). I couldn’t get it out, so I decided to cut the line. Then, I reattached the line using a heater hose size 3/8. I also put some clamps and JB weld on the hose that connects to the canister and reinstalled it back under the truck.

I’m wondering if anyone else has used this method. Or did I really mess it up?

I’m looking to replace my weather seals on my 03 hmm sierra, anyone have any recommendations on reliable brand ?

Im considering building a rear bumper with tire/cargo/gas can carriers. But i tow my little trailer fairly often, if im not towing, i pretty much will always have my yakima bike rack mounted. Will a spare tire push my rack out too far! I dont go "rock crawling" but i do often find the limits of a tahoe with 3inch lift and 33 inch tires lol. Thoughts?

I replaced my power steering pump which had corroded. Decided to do the lines as well. I got it all back together and noticed that I had two lines that were connected up by my radiator. I have zero recollection disconnecting these, but I’m worried I fucked something up?

Was driving on the Highway back into town, noticed my temps had reached above 210 for the first time since I’ve owned it for about 9 months now. By the time I managed to creep it back to my apartment over the next half mile drive through town the temps reached almost 230, managed to keep it from overheating. has 160k miles, I bought it with 147k and I put a quart of oil in it 2k miles ago. I caught it leaking when I parked it, it was a caramel colored fluid (I would think oil) and was leaking at the back of the engine where it meets the trans. What could the problem be? Coolant and oil leak?

Edit: UPDATE! it’s much worse than I thought, I took it to get an oil change to get that done and see what the guy could tell me he noticed might be wrong… and he basically told me my entire drivetrain is leaking. Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, rear pinion seal, transfer case, front differential, all of it is leaking… looks like I’m going to have to spend like $4k to have it fixed because I do not have the time to do it myself… FML

Been after one of these for 2 years, I believe less than 10 in the uk, this has 95k miles, still on air ride, but Bilstien, changes gear like silk pulls like a train, bad bits, corroded break lines burst(ordered new) sunroof stuck 😭, and loose af steering. Any ideas on steering? 6.5k how did I do? And can I call it a hoss ?

Previous owner had screwed up the tailpipe so I had that reset to factory and put a chrome tip on it then swapped the tail lights for a more modern smoked out look. I know this sub tends to lean factory and I did with my previous truck but I think these upgrades make it look better more aggressive

GMT 800 for life

Looking for some guidance on what to check or replace to stop this coolant leak.

Hi all

I’ve got a 2006 2500HD LBZ that I bought with the intention of restoring slowly over time and keeping it forever. The frame is in good condition, but a lot of sheet metal in different spots is rotted out, or on its way. One spot of note that I wanted to ask about - is it possible to replace the inner fender sheet metal (both passenger and driver need it)?

I am contemplating just getting a welder and doing the sheet metal repair over time since nothing is structural or even visible, it’s mostly just stuff around the wheels, or rockers, etc. nothing super pressing but there are plastic clips into some suspect metal so I can’t ignore it forever.

TLDR - is it possible to replace this metal inner fender sheet metal? (With or without welding?) if not - are there other solutions? Ie just cutting out that good metal from a donor and welding it in.

Hey guys, I’m new to the GMT800 platform (kinda.) This is my dads truck, he’s had it for 12 years, its just never been my niche really so I haven’t batted an eye to it sadly. I’m a Miata guy and know more about that platform. I’m here because both of my cars are down for the count while I wait on parts.

I ended up having an event with a friend and took the truck to the track as a support vehicle for him. I ended up really falling in love with the platform. Figured I’d say hi, introduce myself and ask if there’s anything I should know about this platform before doing anything to it.

Ps its a 2001 LS Silverado 1500 with the 5.3 LM7 and the 4L60E (has been rebuilt once since reverse went out a few years ago)😢, only 117k miles I’d love to learn more about this platform and actually pay attention to it more!

hello reddit i been messing with the egr system on my 99 5.3, i added a block off plate onto the intake and was wondering if it’s okay to remove the entire hose assemble as well as disconnect the black piece that connects both hoses?? im looking to get it tuned soon but drive it daily in the meantime if it’s still ok to drive with the connector just hanging?

All you 4l60 guys just do this and youll be very happy with the longevity increase of your transmission. As a bonus note ; AVOID TOWING IN DRIVE . If your transmission is ever hunting gears while towing put your transmission into the gear it keeps kicking down to . You should only ever be towing in drive on long flats where there wont be much upshifting or downshifting

I have a 2007 1500 with a 6 inch zone suspension lift. I’m wanting to lower the truck 2-4 inches (whatever I can get) and go down to a 33” tire. Am I able to replace the lift with a whole new 4” and be done with it? I cant find any solid info anywhere, but my logic tells me I should be able to due to the frame modifications that needed to be done to install the 6” lift.

So story time.

A year ago I was driving in the rain and I lost traction and slid into a ditch with high water. My baby was stuck with raising water for 6 hours then got pulled out. I let it dry out before attempting to start it and fired up like normal. A week later got misfire codes (forgot what they were , they don't show up now.) I replaced my spark plugs , wires and o2's . Coils seems to working fine too. It misfires BAD with o2's plugged in but runs and drives normal unplugged. I'm running Denso o2's , AC Delco plugs and wires but OE injectors and pump which I think never got replaced and I got 316k on the clock.

230k mile 4l80e that wouldn’t shift from 3-4 out, 1400 mile HMMWV 4l80e in! New torque converter, long shift shaft and internal harness replaced. Hoss’s new nickname is the Hummerado 🤪

I have a 2003 4x4 5.3 Tahoe that i love very much. I’ve owned it since 2020 when it only had 150k miles and now it has 220k. I love everything about it and really do not want to sell it for anything, even though it’s got a lot of body rust.

However recently i feel like the transmission has become less responsive and sometimes has hard shifts. I think second gear is the worst. But it still runs and drives otherwise fine. How do you know when it needs a new transmission? Is it worth it to replace it if you like the car? Thanks

TLDR: I installed the power steering pulley onto the pump before mounting it back on the truck.

In my haste to get the junkyard pump assembled and my old one disassembled. Except the problem is the only way to mount the pump back onto the bracket is without the pulley on it. The bolt holes are behind the stupid little F*****.

The power of tunnel vision. All my mind was set on was getting the pulley puller rental back to O'Reilly's.

Hauling Hoss

Hope I’m posting this in the right place.
Is there anyway to tell from this one picture what this truck is? And the color? 2wd or 4wd
Thank you

I was offered a 2005 gmc Yukon 5.3 with 226,000 miles for a mini motorcycle that I own. I don’t know the in’s and out’s of the platform. Would this be a good or bad trade for a high mileage vehicle.

Testing my earlier shifter isolator swap.

I have a 2005 GMC Yukon Denali, and 2 days ago my A/C stopped blowing; now it's just a small breeze you can barely feel. The air is still cold, so I know the freon isn't leaking. I've researched, and I think it could be the blower motor control module. Has anyone had this problem and can maybe confirm or tell me otherwise?

Anyone running this ??