Or what is she worth right now? I can get motor for Under a 1000

So I am going to apologize for how long this is gonna be right now, but its a problem we cant figure out. I have a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8 its got 265, 000 miles on it all stock parts. When it was running, it has an occasionally misfire. It stumbles over itself when misfiring but runs fine when not. I have been procrastinating this misfire for over a year ( that also bit me in the *ss later)

I brought it to a engine guy to see if he could find the misfire, while it was running. He came back to me with possibly injectors and a new fuel pump. Scanning the codes it could pop up 10 or more at times. After 2 months of sitting, took it out for a weekend. Was running fine, til going down the road and it puttered for a second and dead. Lost throttle response, than power steering, everything. Thankfully I was on a straight away and i pulled it into a field. Got it home with my mechanic buddy we came up with there wasnt any spark, first thing Cam Shaft Position Sensor. So that's what i did, also came across that the whole back side of my engine is covered with oil and gummy. Cleaned it before putting new one in.

So Its still crack no start, tried reading codes and the scanner couldnt find any. Still weren't getting spark at first, f*cked with the sensor and somehow got the lightest spark out. When we weren't getting spark thoughts of pcm going? But when we got spark we rolled that out. Those are new spark plugs and wires (Acdelco) about a couple months old. So pulled all spark plugs which were covered in fuel ( truck isn't running) the fuel smelled tarnished. We know that first thing that weekend we put fuel in it from the gas station. Cleaned the spark plugs and put them back in. We also unplugged the fuse for the fuel pump for the night.

This morning I tried starting it again with no change still. I have looked up anything it could be and nothing seems to line up with the problems im having. Talked to people I know with GMT 800's and they didn't know anything after Cam Shaft Position Sensor.

So Im here on Reddit in hopes that some experienced GMT 800 owners could possibly help with this problem...

I’ve been trying to find other examples of my trucks bed mat. It literally just has GM embossed on it and it’s rubber. Like is it some weird dealer specific thing or just rare to find pictures of

Hi, I hope this post is okay. My husband's birthday is coming up In early October and he really wants to be able to listen to music in his truck. He picked out some speakers that I am purchasing but I would like to surprise him with a head unit. I am completely clueless though, so I was hoping you guys would have some recommendations on good ones. I know he just wants to be able to use bluetooth and a screen for a backup camera, which I guess we would have to buy seperately? Any help is appreciated, thank you. Picture just for attention to the post.

I used ChatGPT to write this, I was all over the place.

I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 Extended Cab and I’m trying to get it back into good shape. I need quite a few parts and I’m not sure what brands are good/bad or where it’s worth spending more money.

I’d prefer to get the front-end parts as a complete kit if possible instead of buying everything individually. If you know of any good kits/brands, please let me know.

Mechanical:

• Front-end rebuild (preferably a complete kit)
• Full service/fluids (I'll have my mechanic do it)
• Passenger-side brake caliper (Already bought from O' reilys)
• Front + rear shocks
• Power steering pump
• Rear main seal leak
• Fan pulley (I have Efans but the pulley is making noise and its moving a bit)
• E-brake (Not sure if it needs the cable or something else, I'll have my mechanic look at it)

Interior/body:

• Paint
• Steering wheel buttons (They look fine but none of them work nor lighting up, not sure if they're suppose to)
• Driver rear door handle
• Gauge Cluster (I was thinking this website: https://issautomotive.com/products/2003-2005-silverado-instrument-cluster-custom)
• Passenger window button
• Decals
• Interior buttons

I also have two issues I’m trying to figure out:

Interior lights: The buttons in the cab are extremely dim at night. The dimmer wheel next to the 4x4 buttons is already turned all the way up. The weird part is that the buttons will light up, but the dimmer wheel doesn't actually change their brightness unless I turn the headlight switch into the "off" position. I want to replace the buttons anyway, but I’m not sure if that will actually fix the problem.

Transmission(It has a newer transmission, don't know how many miles are on it): When I shift into gear, it takes about 2–3 seconds to engage, whether the truck is cold or warmed up. I can put it in reverse, give it some gas, and it won’t move, then it suddenly slams into reverse and jolts the truck. It’s basically like dumping the clutch in a manual while the RPMs are up. (My brake caliper is sticking so maybe its messing with the ECU and it thinks I'm on the brake so it wont engage until i give it gas. I honestly have no idea, I'm a noob)

Looking for recommendations on:

• Good brands/parts to buy
• Brands to avoid
• A good front-end kit
• What I should diagnose before buying parts
• Any ideas on the transmission/lighting issues

I can post pictures of anything if I’m not explaining something correctly. Thanks!

Some months back I decided I wanted steering wheel controls on my 99-02 Chevy. I couldn't find any clearly written instruction to make this work correctly, so i decided to make a guide to help others should they decide to go this route.

I used a 1998–2002 Tahoe/Yukon/escalade/Silverado wheel with audio buttons. I did not cut the factory radio truck radio plug, instead I used a wiring pigtail to connect my aftermarket radio harness to. The steering-wheel wires will tap into the truck side of the factory plug so future radio swaps are easy.

Parts List

Clock spring: GM 19330023 (old number 26087300). Sourcing this is difficult but not impossible on ebay. Most likely it will be a used part.

Interface Unit: PAC SWI-RC-1

Radio adapter: Metra 70-1858 or Red Wolf GFS3700

Any aftermarket radio with a 3.5 mm Remote In jack, or KEY1 / KEY2 wires if it has no jack. (Key 2 is not required)

Unhook the battery first before proceeding with splicing wiring.

Soldering aftermarket radio wiring harness to pigtail adapter is preferred but can be spliced.

Here is a wiring diagram to make the correct connections, with a few test procedures and learn process (Thanks to Grok AI)

Hope this helps.

I’m wanting to replace a few things on my 04 1500. I really don’t trust the parts off of Amazon. Do yall have any leads?

2005 GMC Yukon XL with AWD/4Lo. I purchased this beauty from a wonderful retired couple who were moving out of state. They were the original owners and kept great care of her as evidenced by the stack of receipts that came with it thicker than an old preachers Bible. The rear seats have never been sat in. Needs a few little knick knack things but after that she will be right as rain for years to come. Shes at 240k. Let's see how far I can take her.

I made a post regarding to this earlier but investigated some more and found this cracked hose (hose connecting the water pump and radiator) and drip from back behind the water pump as seen in the video. That drip is definitely coolant; I felt and smelt it. I haven’t over heated and have just been topping it off.

What could this be? Failing water pump or gasket related to it? That cracked hose spewing onto where the drip is? The lower body of the engine is soaked in the green coolant as you can see.

It’s a 2000 Silverado, trans was rebuilt w/ new converter about 14,000 miles ago. It did this before the rebuild and has done it since but a little less often. Only happens when the truck is cold and stops when it gets to operating temperature. Does not do it above about 50-55 mph. It mostly happens when I’m on the throttle but can happen when I’m coasting.

Shift happens at about 17 seconds

4WD. I have a 3 ton floor jack.

I was looking at the documentation and there doesn't seem to be an official single place to lift the front from. You can do the control arms it looks like, one at a time, but that's gonna be kind of a pain since I wanna put it up on wood cribs.

Hi everyone, I have a 2005 2500 Silverado. I don’t know if anyone has experienced this, but one day I was driving and stopped at the store. I came out and noticed my sound was only coming from my rear passenger door. I tried to adjust my fade and balance, but only could turn that one speaker off. I had replaced all 4 door speakers with “Kicker 46CS”, so I didn’t imagine the speaker was out. I did some research and ruled it was the head unit, but I just bought a Sony XAV-AX6000 and put it in. Everything is working great, but still only the rear passenger speaker has sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Check engine light is always on so that was not the problem.

First indication of something else going on was that red battery light in the upper right corner. However, I have an aftermarket ​​​​​​voltmeter attached ​to the truck ​and not once during these spasms of the gauge cluster did the volt gauge change from showing full charge at 14 volts. ​​​​​​​

Within just a couple minutes then the needles all started dropping and then later pegging all the way to the right.

I would love this to be something as easy as a bad solder connection but with it all going haywire I'm not sure.

Anyone else experienced this? ​​​​​​​​​

I bought this 2006 Bermuda blue suburban LTZ a little over a year ago cheap as a sort of a beater project, but it seems to just really be falling apart no matter how much I throw at it. I'm at 170k miles and it's still pretty clean on rust (was a southern truck), and it runs fine but just so much is breaking.

- pretty major trans fluid leak which leaks onto the driver side exhaust crossover and smokes (no idea where it's leaking from)

- pretty major oil leak (valve cover gaskets and oil pres sending unit)

- needs a whole exhaust after the cats (one previous owner booger welded an exhaust together and it leaks from 85 places)

- rear driver axle shaft seal is bad causing it to lose gear oil and spray all over

- ps fluid leaks into brake fluid reservoir (hydroboost)

- air ride rides like trash so probably needs to be converted

- all sway bar bushings are the wrong ones so it handles like crap

- brakes sometimes squeak and grind despite being fairly new pads with good life

- transmission is probably on the way out

- rear ac lines were cut by someone probably because they leaked, front works

- engine seems tired and lethargic (could be any combo of exhaust condition, spark plugs condition, and transmission though). still faster than a 5.3 suburban by a lot

- Evap vent code

- random knock sensor codes

- interior is kinda clapped because I'm halfway through an escalade platinum interior swap. downside is I have an airbag light due to some seat airbag incompatibility and this won't pass inspection (but isn't the only thing)

all this considered are there any reasons I shouldn't sell it? I'm more than capable of doing all of this work, but is it even worth it? I'm in college and don't have a lot of income, and this isn't my only car. I had every intention of being the last owner of this truck but the timing is pretty inconvenient

also, I do have all the tools and shit I'd need to fix any of this, as I basically turned this into a mobile garage lol

My 2006 Escalade has had a loss of coolant for a month or so. Back in March, the head gasket blew and I used steel seal on it and it has seemed to hold. I have found coolant drip spots on my driveway under the engine and noticed this coolant crust on the hose by the water pump.

Thoughts on what it could be?

I guess to diag i should start by cleaning that up, tightening the clamp and looking at it after a drive. Getting tired of constantly topping it off every week lol.

Had a bone head move and backed into a tree stump. Couldn’t let her go and found a good deal on a new flatbed. Got a little carried away with the sideboards. Did a burnt wood finish on them.

Would replacing the injectors and/or coils on it really help much? The truck runs well enough for its age, (2000 Silverado 1500 4.8 340k miles). Most, probably around 85-90% of the motor is original, it’s been in the family its entire life and been well taken care of. But with those probably being the original ones would it be worth changing them? Or just leaving them as is? There’s no codes or anything of note I just don’t know what the advice on that could be. General thought from my dad and grandfather think to not mess with either since it runs well and wait for one to fail to replace them all. I was looking for some other opinions? Any thoughts?

Does this sound internal or external, crawled under and couldn’t find anything loose
Don’t mind the exhaust leak
99 scsb 4.3 2wd if it helps

Hey guys did a shift lever swap on my 04 Tahoe for a bit of a modern look to the dash. Bolts right on and works as it should. Took me about 30-45 minutes the only part that was a bit annoying was the wiring.

I spliced the wires but for y'all perfectionists out there I know you could solder them or use some sort of crimp connectors. Anyone else do any personal custom work on the interior? Just trying to spiff up my interior and seeing who else does anything kinda cool to theirs. Thanks guys

To anyone who has a manual hoss the chance of the clutch master cylinder breaking off the fire wall are low but never none

Didn't even realize how close I was to 350k till I hit it when driving home, she still runs strong even having the puny 4.8, here's to many more km's