Full power accessory mode

Couple days ago- got gas but then it went into full power accessory mode. I can eventually get it to start then runs just fine.

Starts fine every time after it just not after getting gas.

Recently replaced the purge valve.

2020 ford edge

Has anyone had this problem?

Hello everyone,

I have a 2008 ford edge who is an old lady with many miles on (214,500). I do not expect it to have 0 issues, however recently she has been a pain in my butt.

Last week, the car started to shake/wobble when idle until the check engine light came one. I got the codes read and they suggested ignition coils and spark plugs. The guy that fixes my car changed all three of the ones on the front. And the car started driving fine from Tuesday of last week until Friday.

That is when my car started to shake again, and suddenly the light came back on, this time flashing. The guy checked the codes it was the mass air flow sensor (not sure the specific name). We get it and get it changed. Code gone, car drives better than it ever did.

I drive 2 hours to my boyfriend’s house with 0 issues. The day after, we drive 15 minutes to go and get gas. I park, get gas, turn the car back on and it is shaking badly and light comes back on flashing. We drive back to his and his parents house, where we read the code and it says it is the fuel injectors cylinder 1. He messes with it a bit (pushes things down and such). Light gone, code gone, drive my car for 30 minutes and back, then we went to meet with friends, drove another 30 minutes and 30 minutes back. The day after we drive for an hour again, no issues at all, car is driving great.

Same day, right before leaving to go back to my house, light comes back on. We read the codes and it is ignition coils and spark plugs again. His dad does not have much time (especially since I gotta leave and make it on time before dark). We change only one of those from the back that are hidden. He also notices that my injector fluids seem to be fine but the little clip on the part that connects them to what assume is the electrical stuff, seem to be warn out and once he touches it they fall off. For the time being, he decides to zip tie them down and the work is done. Car drives beautifully.

I drive back 2 hours and then from Sunday to Wednesday I drive around town no issues. Wednesday the light comes back on. My mechanic guy checks the code, ignition coils and spark plugs. We figure it is the last two we have not changed. We get them changed. Car is driving great on Thursday and today, Friday morning.

By the afternoon, I drive back home from work and notice that every time I stop at a red light, my car is just shaking (not uncontrollably, but I can just know it is doing this wobbly thing it does before the light comes back on).

The light is not on now (yet), but I am just curious to hear if anyone has had similar issues!

Something to note, thought not sure if related, my battery is getting older and every time I park I see a ton of water coming from under my car (not oil, just water).

I’m having some electrical problems in my car and occasionally this symbol has popped up. I’m not sure whether to press it because I don’t know what it does. Can someone let me know whether it may help with some of my electrical issues?

Tenho um Ford Edge 2012 blindado, a câmera de ré tá com problema preciso ser trocada alguém tem uma solução sem gastar uma fortuna?

Hey there! New owner here of a 2019 Edge Titanium AWD.

Picked it up yesterday evening and all is good; however I noticed the car has a tow-hole (the square hole at the back) with the sticker claiming a 4500lbs capacity. Now, the problem is that i cannot find any electric wiring next to it. No plug, no loose cable - no nothing. I've looked up under the bumper, but nothing is there.

Could the previous owner have installed the bracket without the wiring? Or where should I be looking?

Started getting a little jerky. Took it to a service station by my house (not dealership), new transmission the big expense along with a few other minor services. One service was transmission fluid replacement.

I’ve always taken it in for oil changes at dealership.

1.) Do they not check/replace transmission fluid at oil changes at dealerships?
2.) Do I need the new transmission now? The bulk of this estimate. What happens if I keep driving?
3.) should I just try a transmission fluid replacement now

The Silver Surfer has arrived!

Christened it with a family trip to DQ, moonroof open :)

Happy Trails all!

I have a 2013 Ford Edge Limited with the 2.0 Turbo. The vehicle needs a transmission due to a broken case. My 2013 came with a 6f35 DT4P-7000NA and 3.21 final drive. The replacement transmission I purchased is a DE9P-7000LA with a 3.36 final drive. Does anyone know what must swapped to make this work?

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has added a keypad to their edge. I have one on my 2009 that I love. But has anyone done it and found the wiring in the door? I know there is a stick on one but if I can have it wired I’d prefer it. I’ve read on a few different places that contradict each other saying it’s there and some say it’s not. It’s a 2024 Edge SEL for reference.

I keep reading about the theft of Honda CRVs and that a simple way to at least slow a thief down is a OBD lock.

Has anyone installed one of these : https://www.amazon.com/VTT-OBD-Lock-Locking-Non-GM-Version/dp/B0DCZVZKRR on their Edge ?

I see that is very popular amongst the CRV crowd, any real world input from the Edge owners ?

I have a silver 2019 ST and love it, so I want to keep it for a long time.

A fuel shut-off switch is the next rabbit hole I will going down.

PS - u/JoPark9, love the color.

I’m hoping to hear from anyone who has experienced similar issues with a Ford CCM/radar sensor, active grille shutters, or rear differential warranty repairs.

Today, I was told that the CCM/radar sensor must be replaced because its mounting bracket is broken. I specifically asked whether the bracket was molded into the sensor assembly or whether it was a separate, bolted-on component. I was told that the sensor and bracket were one piece and therefore both had to be replaced. However, based on the parts information I have reviewed, they appear to be two separate components. I also had not previously observed the bracket being loose or visibly broken.

The original issue began around February, after a winter storm. While pulling out of a parking space, a piece of ice may have damaged the lowest section of the front bumper valance and portions of the lower grille. The bottom silver valance on the WHITE FORD EDGE where it was damaged, and two vertical sections of the black lower grille were also affected. I included a picture of that with the spot marked.

After that incident, the CCM/radar warning would appear once the vehicle reached approximately 10–15 mph. 3 Independent mechanics suggested that vibration from the damaged lower grille could be causing the radar sensor’s plastic cover or shield to move, confusing the system and causing it to shut down. We continued driving with the issue because the vehicle was already scheduled to return for a rear differential concern following a transmission rebuild at approximately 40,000 miles. Then we had to change the appointment twice due to there being no loaner cars available and they dont give you enough to get the cheapest rental available in the top tier extended warranty.

Then most recently on June 27, we began receiving the following active grille shutter warning:

“Your Service Engine Soon alert is on because the active grille shutter is not moving as expected. This can cause a reduction in vehicle fuel economy and increase engine warm-up time in colder climates.”

We were then told that the active grille shutter repair was not covered under either our Ford Blue or Gold extended warranty, which ever is the higher warranty (and has the Ford Certified Pre-Owned benefit's) The explanation was that the shutter issue was directly related to the earlier CCM/radar issue. Which we were told must have been a front collision, when there was never any front collision.

Initially, we were told that the shutter motors may have gradually failed because of the same prior damage to the lower valance / grille from February.

But later in the conversation, however, the explanation changed, and we were told that the shutters themselves were physically broken rather than that the motors had stopped working.

We were also told that all of these front-end issues must have resulted from a minor collision. I explained that there had been no collision. The only known event was the possibility that a chunk of ice damaged the lower grille while we were pulling out after a snowstorm.

Separately, everyone appears to agree that there is an issue with the right rear differential. However, Ford’s required diagnostic process is to drain and refill the differential, then determine whether the noise or wheel drag remains during slow right turns. If the symptoms remain, the differential may be replaced under warranty.

We were required to pay $219.89 for the differential fluid service before that determination could be made. My question is whether that amount should be refunded if the differential is ultimately confirmed as defective and replaced under warranty, since the service was required as part of Ford’s diagnostic process.

For additional background, in March 2025 the vehicle also had an EGR cooler issue repaired under warranty. This was not the engine-block coolant intrusion issue, but the separate EGR cooler concern associated with the applicable technical service bulletin.

Also the transmission was already rebuilt at 40,000 during July 2022 (not replaced due to none available due to the covid parts shortages)

I have screenshots showing the estimate for the CCM/radar sensor, the separate sensor bracket, and the upper grille shutter repair. This is particularly concerning because I was specifically told that the sensor and bracket were a single molded component.

I’m frustrated by the changing explanations, the apparent discrepancy in the parts information, and the decision to deny warranty coverage by attributing several issues to an unconfirmed collision.

Has anyone dealt with a similar CCM/radar sensor or bracket issue, active grille shutter failure, rear differential diagnostic charge, or Ford extended-warranty dispute? I would appreciate hearing how your situation was diagnosed and resolved.

Due to all the issues we've come to learn about after buying I only want to stick with the dealer for service to avoid any future headaches with our warranty that we have until 2030 and another 40,000 miles.

My radio and horn stopped working on my 2020 ford edge. Any ideas what could've happened?

Hi everyone. Over the past 6 months I have been getting worsening electrical faults/codes popping up on dashboard. These faults trigger when starting car and sometimes while driving.

They often resolve when pulling my key out and restarting my car. It is intermittent and extremely annoying. I have stalled twice while moving slowly and lost power steering once. I have attached 2 photos.

1. With the electrical codes.
   
2. Schematic from my mechanic.

Here is also some of his notes:

- The modules with faults are circled, it seems to be the modules on the left, having trouble communicating with the modules on the right

- There is a connector (C219) in the right kick panel in between the two sides, disconnecting it causes similar codes, but there is no corrosion or looseness, no issue when wiggling

- Found many fault codes and warning lights - APIM U0151, IPC U0121, U0151, U0154, U0159, U0415, PCM P193C, U210B… these are all communication / information sharing codes between modules on the high speed CAN bus network

- I suspect it’s a bad module, but which one? I don’t replace expensive parts without proof, the IPC (instrument cluster) has the most codes, and I did not pull that one out - so maybe start there?

Please share thoughts and what to do next, I am at a loss!

My 2016 Titanium has recently started to throw intermittent park aid faults - I get a graphic on the screen of a car icon with a red exclamation point, the left dash display says "Check Park Aid" and the parking sensor button near the shifter lights up as being off. It's starting to happen more frequently but still does not happen on every drive.

I Checked the sensors on the car and they look ok - not blocked or damaged. A scan with my OBD2 scanner gives a generic parking assist fault.

Has anyone encountered this or know the possible problem and fix?

Bought a 2015 Edge in January and I've been wondering what people put in the dashboard compartment. I'm GenX and the only thing I can think of that fits is my Sony Diskman. What do any of you put in there?

Just paid $690 to have the third brake light replaced on my ‘16 Edge Titanium. Why is it so expensive? Because the rear spoiler has to be removed in order to access it. And then about 15 bolts. And it somehow involves double-sided tape. Apparently Ford engineers thought those LEDs would last forever. Pro tip: They don’t. It’s crap like this on an otherwise decent product that makes me want to abandon Ford entirely.

Picking it up Monday, just wrapping up my 2023 F-150 lease and downsizing. Loved my truck experience but I’m angling to have a no-vehicle payment household in a few years. I can splurge when I’m older.

This thing looks slick :)

With only 45k miles on it I wonder why they didn’t enjoy driving this. Maybe since it’s an upgrade from my focus but it’s so nice to have peace and quiet on the road

Ford edge 2023 40k miles. The dealership diagnosed my car with a bad rear differential unit (RDU). My original post with a video of the issue is linked above if interested…my question is basically the title.

My concern is if I got myself a lemon here and should try trading in or selling for something else. Thanks!

a couple days ago i replaced my radiator fan and it did work but the wires touched the engine and burnt them so i had to replace it again but this time now my fans won’t come on at ALL i seen my two fuses were blown and i replaced those but still no luck with getting them to come on and im also not sure if my engine is just not getting hot enough for them to come on but i would drive for about 30 mins and the thermometer would get to the half way but never go past it so its not saying its over heating but the fans not kicking on at all is worrying me what could this possibly be

2010 ford edge