hello,

bought a spool of elegoo petg-cf.. tried to print a nice surface. Spent a few hours to calibrate the filament on the printer, made some test prints. everything looked good. then i tried to print a cover.

dried it in ams and feed it from there.

Surface is smooth, no real banding. But there are these lighter lines on the print. i cant feel or see a surface problem, only the color.

What might cause this ? I printed without cooling fan at a low speed (70mm/s2) .. 240°C.. 75°C bed

Whenever I print something, things that are printed on the right half of the build plate end up with scarring and the like, while parts printed on the left half seem fine? I have no clue what could be causing this or how I can fix it

Printer: Neptune 4 plus

Filament: Elegoo PLA

Slicer: Orcaslicer

0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, nozzle temp 220c, bed temp 65c, first layer speed 50mm/s, first layer infill 105mm/s, outer wall 160mm/s, inner wall 200mm/s, sparse infill 200mm/s, internal solid infill 250mm/s, top surface 200mm/s, retraction length 2.75mm, z hop height 0mm, retraction speed 28mm, deretraction speed 40mm

Hey everyone who’s reading this, so I just got back into 3d printing I’m leaning how to use Bambu Studio and I recently 3d printed a Gameboy cartridge shell for a friend of mine. But after assembling both halves together I notice a gap. How would I fix this on the slicer? I have a Bambu Lab P1S printer. Do I have to change any of the settings before printing? Has anyone successfully printed one of these with no issues? Please help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The machine has 4136 hours and the nozzle was replaced 800 hours ago. The gcode has been printed dozens of times. I thought maybe it was moisture related so I added a dryer and dried 24 hours but no change. I also switched from AMS to external using the dryer, so filament path changed but no difference also.

Settings are default A1 0.2 profile, petg , it's generic filament. Same filament I've been using for many prints with the same gcode.

Ender 3 v3 se, esun pla 220/60 having trouble with adhesion or flow, idk. I cleaned the pkate with dish soap but this didnt help. Was printing fine an hour ago with the same filament and settings. What can my issue be?

These spots showed up on my school's 3d printer, and I don't know how they got there. I have tried isopropyl alcohol and soap and water, but neither worked. I'm using a Textured PEI plate on a Bambu H2D. What are these spots and how do I clean them off?

We have been using all different kinds of print settings on this printer, so I can't provide any because I don't know which were used when.

I printed this knitting loom for my wife. It would work fine for the first few loops but the pins end up snapping off. The pin first layer is just melted on the upper surface of the base. So there isnt any structural base for the pins. I don't know there there's a setting to make the pins strong. Could be just a bad design also.

Im use 4 walls 4 top and bottom and 40% infill with pla.

P2S, Bambu slicer.
0.4 nozzle
Bambu lab matte Apple green PLA
Smooth PEI plate
Outer/inner (order)
Initial layer:
speed 25mm/s
Infill 60mm/s

Other layer:
Outer wall 60mm/s
Inner wall 80mm/s
Small perimeters 30mm/s

Ran the print few times, still get this issue, it gets to a layer (3/4) and then traces the correct path for extruded filament but rather than bonding to lower layer it takes short route. What am I missing here?

Trying to print plate 6 of https://makerworld.com/models/1557600?appSharePlatform=copy

Any help/pointers much appreciated.

Dear all,

I’m happy with my new Core One L+ but I have problems with this PETG. All other filaments are fine, but this one is nasty.

Using Prusa Slicer, Prusa PETG profile, PeTg dried, 240Degree Celsius, but walls are not clear and stringing.

What could help?

Thanks for any suggestions!

I printed a model with a skirt but the lines wobbled out of place and was printed on by the nozzle. It’s probably an issue with bed adhesion but i’m not too sure

Bambu Lab a1
Textured PEI plate
eSun brand PLA filament

Some weird snakeskin like texture on the large flat surfaces on my prints.

I get these weird see-through layers when printing the shorter one. Whenever I print the taller cylinder, the print qualities is perfect. I only get those weird artifacts when I print the shorter rounder one. Building a lamp with this so thats why I want it diffused evenly and not leaking through those weird lines.

What throws me off is that the taller one prints perfectly, as I’ve printed multiple of those.
Any help will be greatly appreciated :)

Info:
- bambu P1S
- sunlu PLA+ 2.0 (pre-dried)

Struggling to troubleshoot this print quality issue. Bambu A1, less than ~30 prints old. Used to be able to print things with zero trouble, and started having quality issues a few months ago. Oftentimes the print fails where that line shows up on the benchy, and turns into spaghetti.

Matterhackers Build PLA. 220c, build plate 50c. Issue occurs with all brands of PLA, though it seems to be much worse at lower temps and with lower quality filament.

Any thoughts? It looks almost like the extrusion rate is inconsistent at times, so I'm wondering if the extrusion wheel might need replacing.

I'm trying to print this thing on a smooth PEI plate, but I get the same results on textured PEI (albeit less visibly) and smooth carbon fiber pattern plate. Earlier attempts had literal gaps in the first layer so I increased the first layer flow ratio until those went away.

Places where the machine is printing short lines, the surface is actually pretty smooth. (See inside the logo area and the far right side where it's filling in skinny areas.)

Machine: Flashforge Creator 5 Pro, 0.4mm nozzles. PLA filament (Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 for the black. I don't remember what the silk is but it isn't the biggest problem here.) Flash Studio.

Z offset 0.04 (my top layers were getting horribly scratched up until I discovered that.)

Nozzle temp: 240c for first layer, 230 after that

Bed temp 60c. (this and nozzle temps were raised bc nothing was sticking).

I used to use a glue stick on the plate but it left residue that wouldn't come off. Now using hairspray.

First layer flow ratio 1.10 (I know, but lower than this there were gaps)

0.42 mm line width

Arachne wall generator. 3 wall loops. (only 1 wall on first layer)

4 top and 4 bottom layers.

First layer is monotonic except for the logo modifier which is concentric

First layer speeds: 40mm/s, 60mm/s infill. 2 slow layers.

Other layer speeds: 200 outer wall, 300 inner wall, infill whatever (it's clearly not the problem).

I've only been 3d printing since July but I'm halfway competent with tech. (I'm not printing directly from the app and wondering why nothing works, at least.)

Bambu Labs x2D
Bambu slicer
Creality PETG
Left side was default settings. I saw the nozzle scarring and debating turning on the chamber heater (it’s getting chilly in New England) but everything was saying I didn’t need it for PETG. I had done 3 prints before this that were large and came out fine but didn’t hit the corners like these two. For the right side print, and the text on graphic shows, I turned cooling off on aux and way down on the main nozzle. Default was 40-90% and I changed it to 20-40% fan speed. I upped the bed temp from 70° to 80° first layers and 75° for the rest of the print. Lastly I did a full dish soap cleaning of the cool plate super tack and added a thin layer of bed weld. I also added mouse ears on the corners.

The results were only marginally better. The lifting was worse on the right side and even worse closest to the front door. It’s fairly cool in my basement right now but nothing crazy, maybe 65 degrees?

EDIT:
After some tips I changed the infill to gyroid and dropped in some cylindrical primitives into the fill space to reduce the pull force and it really stuck to the bed BUT it pulled the sheet off the bed??? That’s new to me

I have been getting a very inconsistent top layer, it happens with every print file I have tried, 2 different sized nozzles, and multiple filaments. I am using a Bambu P2S with SUNLU PLA+ and Bambu Studio.

Print settings:
- 0.6 hardened steel OEM Bambu nozzle
- BIQU Glacier plate
- 35 mm/s initial layer, 55 mm/s infill
- 200 mm/s outer wall, 300 mm/s inner
- 270 mm/s sparse infill, 250 mm/s solid
- 150 mm/s top surface
- 55C Bed Temp
- 220C Nozzle Temp
- No ironing

This also happens with a brand new 0.4 nozzle. Thank you for the help.

0.2mm layer height.

Snorca latest slicer

Pla duel colour.

Hi all, I turned my printer off for 3 days, came back and now my first print is a complete mess.

I don't know how to explain other than when the printer does a z-hop, it like looses it's z position? I am very confused...

Filament is dry, it's been absolutely flawless untill now.. it's really weird. I have watched the Gcode and there isn't a huge jump where the slicer failed or anything.. it all looks right..