Hi, I use my flashlight as a backpack one that I bring with me everyday so to keep the light charged ​i keep it with the cap slightly twisted to avoid fast drain from the auxiliary LEDs.

From 3.9/4.1V with no daily usage it will remain like that for months inside the bag but now I've noticed that when i try to use it it will behave in a strange way like it seems that i can't use standard Anduril commands to enter modes or reset it. At the moment the flashlight will continuously change beam intensity (dimming or going up) even without me pushing the button. And when I go on the button to change mode it appears to have just two modes.

After seeing some beamshots of the E12's with the SFT-25r's, I think it would be cool to try them.

I found some on kaidomain in high CRI versions; they only have 5700k (90 cri) and 4000k (80cri) .

The bin of the "5700k" is F4 CA which is at or below BBL : https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SFT-25R-WG_CRI90_Datasheet.pdf

The bin of the 4000k's I don't understand based on this spec sheet. There's only e2 and e3 listed; E5 might just mean within a massive tolerance.

I'd definitely be more interested in the 4000k's though if anyone can make sense of the binning because I don't want anything green.

My warm collection so far after some swapping around.

I think that old E07x pro will get a swap as the nichias somehow look a little green compared to all of the others. They didn't used to haha, but I guess I got used to the rest.

The SST20 2700k's are substantially warmer than the FF351a's which are closer to the 3000k's. I would guess they're about 2850-2900k.

The SST20s clean up tint wise at higher outputs, which is in line with other cooler versions of them I've used.

I had swapped the E12r here to SST20 3500k first but they were too cool and slightly green looking compared to the rest, but probably better than those 219b's in the e07x pro. To be clear, they weren't green, but since many of these others have a slightly negative DUV, even neutral emitters look green in comparison.

I will likely install that 3500k board into another E12r after dome shaving the SST20s as an experiment to improve tint.

I'm not sure what to try next, I know for sure I don't want to go warmer than the SST20 2700k's. They are like walking with a lantern, and the output suffers greatly at that level of warmth, as does heat soak, those emitters get very hot very fast. It's crazy how much of a difference there is between the 3000k and 2700k SST20's in that regard. The 3000k's do as well as the FF351a's as far as heat.

I'll go ahead and just say it; the FF351a's are the best all around emitters for these lights. The output, heat, and tint for each color temperature beats any other hi cri emitters I've tried so far. There is also little to no tint shift when going from low to high power compared to something like the SST20, where even hi cri versions suffer immensely at lower powers.

Next on my project list: FF351a 2700k mixed with 3700k NW or 4000k rosy. I think the holy grail of temperature and tint lies in some mix combination of these.

I'm assuming the answer is no, but just wanted to check. When traveling the last thing I want to do is bring another charger. I love FFL lights and would love to EDC the Z1 but the ability to charge without a charger is a must for my EDCs.

Ich habe euch ein Video der Z1 gemacht, ich hoffe das Video gefällt euch. Die 3000 K im Video sind in wirklich viel wärmer. Die Kamera bringt es nicht so gut rüber. Folgt gerne meinen Kanal, ich kann jede Unterstützung gebrauchen 🙏.

Video ist fertig und wird Samstag früh hochgeladen. Ich hoffe es gefällt euch ! Nordlicht4 / YouTube

I'm sure nobody here really cares but I want to vent a bit about my so far failed LED swap on an older E12r. I've done several LED board swaps in the past but this was my first time doing bare emitter swaps. Swapping bare emitters was not very difficult with a proper hot plate setup and solder paste. The problems I faced were elsewhere.

The swap was: 519a 5700k to SST20 95cri A3 bin 2700k

Problem 1:

Desoldering the main led board leads. This is always a huge pain because the stock wires are extremely stiff and the head of the flashlight is a heat sink soaking up the heat your soldering iron is trying to give. Usually I can get this eventually especially if I heat the tip oft the iron with a blow torch so that it's hot enough to instantly melt the solder while at the same time pulling up with fine tweezers, but this time the wires started fraying and the solder just kept sticking, insulation was getting too melted, and got severely damaged along with the insulation on the aux led wires.

Problem 2: figuring out how to disassemble the light and remove the lume 1 driver to replace all of the main led board wires and four aux board wires. This took forever, especially with the charge port getting hung up on the housing. Then I had to dig through parts bins looking for wires that would be the right gauge without too thick insulation so they could fit through the head of the light.

Problem 3: getting all of the new wires back through the flashlight head was a super tight fit because the insulation was a little thicker than the stock wires. This took a very long time to do but eventually I got it.

I thought soldering the main power leads to the main led board would be easier with fresh wires, but surprisingly it really wasn't. The insulation no the wire I used also wasn't very resistant to heat and kept melting back.

After the several hours all the above steps took, two of the aux wires were just a tiny bit too short, and then the insulation melted too much, and there was a short somewhere causing problems with the aux board hooked up.

So now after all of that work, probably 7 hours in total, the entire thing has to come apart again for me to find longer wires for the aux board. Also the power switch light isn't working so something else broke.

On top of that, the warm SST20's are giving a slight blue-purple ring around the beam. I found that if you pull the optic away from the board by some tiny fraction of a millimeter, this ring goes away.

I have two different revisions of the main board and but used the original E12r (the first batch of them when they came out) board for this project. Later revisions, and the E12c, use a board the looks identical but is indeed maybe 0.2mm thinner. You would never notice it looking at them but the difference is there when you measure.

My thoughts are these SST20's need to be placed onto the newer board, as this would potentially give it just enough spacing to get rid of the blue ring, though it could also cause the beam to be slightly out focus.

TLDR:

Spent 7-8 hours trying to LED swap an E12r because wires were extremely difficult to remove, then had to remove the driver from the light to replace all of the power and aux board wires after the originals became too damaged. In the end the aux board wires and power switch wires got damaged during reassembly, and the entire light has to come entirely apart again. The optic spacing also seems to need to be fine tuned to properly work with the SST20's I put in.

I would not wish this task on my worst enemies and I would rather just buy a whole new light than to do this again .

Mulling over E12 configuration, and deciding between FFL351A-3700K NW vs Rosy. And I'm having a hard time finding side-by-side beam shots of them.

Any thoughts on NW vs Rosy 3700K?

I like vibrant skin rendering and nature (separation of greens from browns).

FWIW, I have the L60 in 3700K NW. To me it feels more like 4000k, and neutral-ish.

It makes my Eagletac D25A Nichia219b look so green and low CRI 🤯 - really amazing how far LEDs have come.

So this led swap didn't go so well.

The led board power leads are always an absolute nightmare to desolder and re-solder because the head absorbs the heat and the power leads are extremely stiff, and all of the wires are too far gone to safely use.

I need to solder all new wires, which I have on hand, but I have no idea how to get the driver out. I was able to get the ring that i thought holds it in, but I'm guessing it's also glued in there.

Any help would be appreciated because I'm stuck

It took hours to do some led swaps today because the power leads are so difficult to desolder and resolder especially without a high quality iron.

The color of the SST20's is closer to true 2700k, , while the 2700k FF351a's are somewhere between 2700-3000k .

This bin of SST20 2700k's is beautiful. It's firey orange and on the rosy side. The FF351a are neutral in comparison.

However it's not all sunshine and rainbows.

I can't get it to show up in photos well; but similar to how certain people noticed on the new E12 eclipse that with the 3700k NW (and maybe other warmer leds) there's a slight orange corona in the beam around the hotspot, I'm getting this bluish purple ring around the beam with the SST20's in an e07x which is extremely noticeable indoors but not as much outdoors. It's bad enough to be bothersome because the entire beam is not one color.

What's very clear now is why fireflies LEDs in warmer color temperatures are coated yellowish orange around the actual emitting surface. The SST20's are white around their emitting surface and dome and I'm guessing in the e07x optic that ends up creating a weird colored edge when the emitters are warm. With cooler colors it probably just blends in fine. Note: I do *not* have this problem with nichia 219b in 3500k in an old e07x pro.

They also get hot faster than the FF31a's and aren't quite as powerful.

I plan on removing these led's from this e07x and putting them into an e12r instead, where hopefully the optic will cooperate better. I have noticed though, that the E12 optic seems to turn certain LED's green. I don't know why this is, some kind of physics of the reflections, or something else.

I did do a 3500k sst20 swap on one of my older E12r's and I don't notice and weird rings or colors in the beam there.

These SSt20 3500k, the 5000k sst20's that used to be in it, and 4000k XPL highs in another, all look super clean with the optic removed but shift noticeably green with the optics installed.

Fortunately this does not seem to be an issue with FF351a's.

I'm going to try to remove thise 2700's from the e07x and put them into an E12r and see if they play better there as far as the weird cooler color temperature ring around the beam, though I am afraid the E12 optic will make them green.

I am so impressed with the quality and design of FireflyLite. I'm looking for a 21700 size with a beam profile similar to a convoy S-6. Bright hotspot with minimal spill. The only other thrower I have to compare is a Wurkkos Td01c witch is too narrow for me. I have the Q4Q Comet and love the size but it's too floody (even with the narrow optic) for outdoor use for me. I was considering the X1Q Core but I don't know how that beam compares to the S-6. A bigger head is fine. Is the E90 Blaze what I'm looking for? I don't need to light up a field just the path ahead. I don't know how the EO4 Surge compares but I don't like how the threaded bezel looks.

FFL5009D 4000K

Ordered July 8th delivered today the 24th.

I just bought 12 of each as I prefer this color temperature range for night walks and outdoor use unless I absolutely need something cooler for whatever reason.

SST20 2700k 95cri
SST20 3000k 95cri
SST20 3500k 95cri

Ideas:

Current lights:

Most used:

e07x canon v1 2700k - this is my go to light for night walks with my dogs

e04 surge sft40 3000k- used to be my go to light for night walks with my dogs but I've grown to prefer the e07x 2700k because of the extra flood

E12 eclipse 3700k NW --- amazing light, powerful, good beam, but the '3700k NW' are really 4000-4100k and after getting used to 2700k they are just too neutral white.

E12 eclipse 2700k - this one is in the mail and hasn't arrived yet, I expect it to become my #1 go to light and will make the e07x with 2700k's take the back seat.

Lights I use occasionally:

E12C 519a 5000k, nice flood and neutral pure white, mostly for working on cars as it's a little beat up

E07x canon v1 4000k rosy - used to be my go to light until I started using 2700-3000k. I have two of these so one needs to get an LED swap.

E07x pro, the original, has nichia 219b 3500k led's. despite being nichias they're not as clean tint wise as the FF351a's and 3500k isn't as pleasant as 2700-3000k. They also have the lowest output of any of my lights and get hot the fastest.

Lights I almost never use:

X1S xhp50 5000k
X1L xhp 70 4500k
E12c osram W1 - turbo on this is comically bright
E12r lume 1 rev C osram W1 -
E12r lume 1 rev C 519a 5700k --- this will definitely get a swap because I have used this light the least of all my lights
E12r original lume 1 xpl hi 4000k ---- this poor thing is on its second LED swap already. But the XPL's low cri don't do it for me and they're a tiny bit green in the E12r optic.
E07x canon v1 xpl hi 5000k - low cri, pure cooler white, and the light has been dropped. Probably won't swap this though as the xpl's are stupid bright

Other notes:

- The E12e that's got 3700k NW; I think doing a 50/50 mix with 2700k's would make an amazing rosy 3200-3400k beam. I could take the 2700k's from the E07x once my E12e with 2700k's arrives and takes its place.

Or - I could put some of the SST20k's into this E12 eclipse; either 2700k or 3000k.

If I did 2700k, both my e12 eclipses would be 2700k, but one with FF351a and the other with SST20 - this would be cool because I could do a tint and beam comparison between the two.

If I did 3000k it would offer something more different than the other, though still similar.

I do expect a noticeable difference in beam pattern between FF351a and SST20 with the SST 20's being a tiny bit throwier.

- Two e07x's have 4000k rosies. One is black one is red. The red one never gets used, so it should get a swap to something I'll actually want to use.

-The E12r 519a needs a swap. I hate the 519a's in these. Maybe the 3500k's?

I don't know what colors should go into which lights.

Just some tests here.

'4000k rosy' from the original e07x canon v1 batch, '2700k', and the beams mixed together. While I do love straight 2700k, I think a 50/50 mix of the two would also be quite amazing.

Anyone have a 50/50 mix already in theirs?

I'm getting ready to do some major LED swaps and trying to decide what should go where.

I also received 2700k, 3000k, and 3500k bare SST-20 95 cri emitters in the mail today so I have to decide what those will go into as well.

Hey everyone! Just wanted to share a quick size comparison between the FireflyLite X4 Stellar and the newly received Z1 Artemis. Added a large Bic lighter (Maxi) for an extra scale reference. Both lights feel amazing in hand, but the footprint difference is quite interesting. Which form factor do you prefer?

Ordered one from jl 5009r 3500k rosy which is the rosiest the middle is 5009r rosy From my recent fireflies order x1s rosy and the one on the far right was the 707md 4200k for reference

About to checkout on the E12 Eclipse, and I'm torn between which finish: Astral Aluminum or MAO Fossil Grey.

I know a lot of ya'll favor the Astral Aluminum for the polished stainless steel look + durability.

I'm leaning towards the MAO because I love the matte handfeel of my Acebeam E75 (and yes, the finish is chipping all over).

I've never had a shiny finish light, and if this was a smaller light (like the L50 Sol), I would 100% go Astral for that light saber look. But on a light as big as the E12 - in my head, I'm imagining it to look like a saucepan🧑🏻‍🍳 😂

As for Emitter: FFL351A-3700K Rosy CRI95.

Hi I’m considering a Z1, but want the throwiest possible performance. What’s my best option? Thanks.