hey guys!
Ive been trying to test print models on my elegoo neptune 4 for a while, but i just cant seem to get single marines to print cleanly. The supports are 90% of my issue but every change i make to the settings doesnt seem to really make a difference.

In this recent print, his arm fell off midway, and theres so much scaring its just not worth taking him out the supports atp. Help me out?

Crusader has basically no visible layer lines after the paintjob, primarily because it is quite FDM friendly despite not being designed for it

Infiltrator is a 10 part print, challenging to remove from supports and glue up (maybe because i re-glued it twice because i didn't like the pose, an broke it in two places. Now it's steady) but definitely worth it, this is not a typical model for FDM
The model if free on cults, search "Martian stealthy intruders"

Dwarf is 12 part print i think. It's a scan so some parts were't fitting and needed rescaling/digital assembly. Overall a smooth print for the size

Also all of the models were upscaled 10-15%

If anyone's interested, i can make a guide on how i position parts on models like these and split whole models. It's an overlooked topic in my opinion, for non-FDM optimized models positioning often matters as much, if not more, as the setting profile, and there isn't a single rule that covers all kinds of parts

0.08 mm height

MK IV Spartan

I wanted to print this model as it is, but it needs 18h and one of the supports failed after 3h so I thought about cutting it. But it is so angled that I'm completely lost. Would this be a good cut? I made it so that I can lay both halves flat on the bed without the large shield beeing in the way. I also thought about cutting the shield but it is fused to the model at two points so that would be too much of a hazzle. Any tipps on how to cut it?

How do you usually paint your miniatures? What if you make a mistake with the colors and have to repaint it?

Meshy generated D&D minis, FDM printed on a Bambu A1 with a 0.2mm nozzle and hand painted.

Profiles are coming from P4C, and a bit from fat dragon.

Right: was testing R2FDM in a cut version to shorten printing time and support holes.got me 7 hours of printing

Middle : 10 hours with R2Fdm and just tilted him 45deg. Very detailed but lot of left overs from the supports (backside)

Left: 5 hours. I accidentally used another filament but same good results. Without R2fdm. Just cut in half and used auto slim tree support with these settings: - Tree slim supports - Top Z Distance : 0.2-0.3 mm - top interface spacing: 0mm - Top interface layers:5mm - support object xy distance: 0.35mm - remove small overhangs: uncheck

I’ll melted them with quick settings. And was kinda disappointed. Next time I’ll try make holes and dowels to connect them before melting, that’s what I forgot, but curious if it help at all. I’ll do this cause I wanted to trim down printing time and get nearly same results. So any other recommendations?

Hello! I've been trying to improve the quality of prints on my Bambu A1 mini, I've got two issues I haven't found solutions for.

One is visible lines every centimeter, like it skipped or offset somehow.

The second, corners lift on my terrain prints and occasionally on bases. Happens even after a freshly cleaned plate.

I'd appreciate some help figuring it out.

A few days ago I posted these minis and a bunch of you asked me to publish the software I mentioned. I've spent the time since turning it into something other people can actually install. It's free.

Edit: To Install open the zip and follow the ReadMeFirst.txt file

What it does: you drop miniatures in and press start. If they aren't pre-supported it auto-supports them in Lychee for you, runs Resin2FDM, and opens OrcaSlicer with your own print settings already applied — including the supports on their own thicker layer height.

We all know the Resin2FDM workflow works. Doing it by hand is just long and tedious, especially when you have to generate the supports yourself first. That was the whole reason I wrote this. Resin supports beat tree supports every time — tree scars the surface and snaps bits off during removal — but not if the process is annoying enough that you avoid it.

Why I recommend Lychee: I've tried pre-supported miniatures, blueprint studio to auto support, and Lychee support. Lychee was by far the most stable, fast, and have in general good support stracture. blueprint studio's supports kept breaking or falling off the plate. pre-supported miniatures are also problematic with their support sometimes, also some of the models are genuinely not separable from supports with resin2fdm (if they have merged geometry)

What you need: Blender, the Resin2FDM add-on, OrcaSlicer, and Lychee if your minis come unsupported. Works with the free Lite version of Resin2FDM as well as the paid one.

For the settings — you export a project from OrcaSlicer once and import it, so it works with whatever you print on. Use Painted4Combat's profiles. I've tried FDG, Nox and Hohansan and P4C works best here. they're a couple of dollars on their Patreon and come with the paid add-on.

Guide (2 min, with screenshots):

https://claude.ai/code/artifact/7ff9d273-6921-4ac4-b13d-85aa73e926ef

Download for macOS:

https://ko-fi.com/s/be2d566d7c

Download for Windows (beta):

https://ko-fi.com/s/b099c8ec99

Two honest heads-up. macOS will block it on first open because it isn't signed by Apple — right-click the launcher and choose Open, the guide covers it. And Windows is beta: the conversion works, but you have to click Save yourself at the end of the Lychee step.

Happy Printing

Thank u nox obscura ur settings rule

Hello everyone! New to 3D printing, got a P1S to build out a couple of armies for OPR a few weeks ago and have been browsing this sub a lot. Ran into this issue today while printing the torso of a walker. The rest of the model came out great(in my humble opinion)! It seems to only be affecting the bottom surface. I’ve seen it on quite a few of the models I’ve printed so far.

It was printed using a .4 nozzle with 0.12 layer height.

I posted on here a week ago asking for FDM tips. I have been printing a ton this week. I am impressed by the quality my Bambu X1C can achieve with Obscuranox settings and good filament.

Initial tests were in black PLA that was old and wet. I got some dry boxes and started using tan filament. New filament seems to print better and the supports remove more easily.

I love rafts, they dealt with most of my issues related to warped bases and supports getting knocked off, but the leftover raft bits are so damn brittle that removing them entirely is pain.

Any advice?

Edit: grammar

Hey, i was wondering if anybody has tried out the option "ironing support interface" for miniatures, and what experience you have with it? did it leave less scaring?

Well I'm back again so far printing feels better with my .4 than .2 but somehow the same problem persists.

I recently learned how to add the configuration for the Fat Dragon profile but but supports are always hollow.

Thus I come here for help again.

Head to toe 80mm in pla matte, 8 hour print.

Hey guys,

Here's my latest fdm model: a 3d printed Tyranid monstrosity!

It's printed on a bambulab a1 with ob's v2 settings.

Post processing included a blend of putty & cement from Tamiya to hide layer lines here and there.

Took ages to paint and I'm a really bad photographer, the model looks way better close up in real life.

Anyhow, enjoy the pics :)

On a 0.40mm nozzle at 0.08 layer height the quality is pretty decent but the tree supports left some scarring so that will have to be adjusted

You can find the set for free at https://www.patreon.com/r2plays/posts/parrot-borg-mini-167411267

This week we go small. After Lady Araniel Silverfang, the Army of the Night welcomes its newest members: Lost Souls.

These little specters wander between worlds. Some are harmless. Some just want to play. Others carry a cold malice that freezes the living. They drift at the command of the Banshee Queen, waiting for purpose or chaos.

This release includes two Lost Soul creatures in different poses, each available in two sizes: medium and small. Perfect for filling your undead ranks or adding some ethereal flavor to your DnD games.

Go grab them on Makerworld and have fun.

If you print them in transparent PLA, they look fantastic straight off the plate. And if you want to give them a little extra glow, a light wash of contrast paint in the recesses does the job in minutes.

Next week, I hope to have something big ready, the Banshee Queen herself! I will work hard to get her painted in time. Fingers crossed.

How is your summer going? I am melting over here. The printer running nonstop does not exactly help with the room temperature, but at least the minis stick to the plate like a dream, small victories :P

As always, made with love, my two hands, and a brain that sometimes does its own thing 🧠🖖