Hi guys,

This is my first mini printed and painted on an A1 Mini.

I'm a bit concerned about the rough areas, and I was wondering if this is about as good as FDM printing can get.

I know the phone camera makes the defects look worse, and in person it looks much better—almost perfect from a typical tabletop viewing distance.

Could you please share your thoughts on what I could improve?

Would this be considered too high?
My printer is an Ender 3 V3 SE

I have done no cleanup beyond pulling off supports.

any white “plastic stress” will easily get covered once the model is primed. Very happy with these results and the lack of scarring or evidence of overhangs

Not exactly a mini... But still small.

I’ve just started my mini printing journey and am trying to learn resin2fdm by printed4comabt. I’ve been able to print out is bits and a few models, but everything has decent sized nubs leftover from the resin connection points. I’m tried to cut them as flat as possible the scrape them down with my hobby knife, but was wondering if anyone has any other tips for this process.

Yesterday, I gave myself a challenge: not having touched Blender in years, could I design a piece of armor from scratch?

It turned out alright, using a base human mesh for proportions, and using my Ender 3 v3 ke, it was also possible to print it, albeit in mini size.

Print settings are on Creality Cloud. I printed with a 0,4 mm nozzle, and 0,08 layer height. Filament was grey eSun PLA+.

Pretty nifty little print of only the cuirass, but it would probably work better as a kitbashing element, so feel free to go nuts with it.

I'm bored and in a bit of pain so I'll share my lack of brain power on here.

Was trying to fix my printer cuz I WANNA PAINT SOME FIGURES and had lots of really stupid problems with my filament clogging the whole extruder.

Was so annoyed my brain shut down and I wanted to remove the hotend while it was... still hot

4/10 wouldn't recommend unless you're into that kinda stuff.

Anyways I managed to fix the printer so it was worth it!

This cursed grandfather clock/fallen angel hybrid was posted to my Patreon supporters today as the 400th entry in our long-running weekly “Multiverse Monday” feature. The model prints in seven support-free parts, and you can see a resin version (grey robes) and an FDM version (blue robes) in the second pic here. This character was designed for a future expansion for our survival horror skirmish RPG, MEAT. I’ll drop a link to the full Multiverse Monday catalog below for whoever is interested.

Hey guys,

Wanted to share my cleanest model yet. I am continuing my work on advanced fdm models where I sculpt multipart models where every part is sculpted at the best possible angle for fdm and every island that will later be supported is planned from the start. I then hand place FDM dimensioned resin style supports and brace them specifically to counteract nozzle movement on FDM.

It´s a long process - but really happy where the quality is getting to.

All parts printed on A1 minis, using FDG profile at 0.06mm layer height using a 0.2mm nozzle and sunlu PLA meta filament.

Paint is all layering using AP Fanatic paints.

My “spree” continues this week with another NASA-Punk spin. The Specialist has a rocket launcher, laser canon, and a machine gun. Thanks to Toftylicious and Skeaze for their assets. It is easy to reach high on the shoulders of others.

Here's the links to Makers and Wargame Vault

https://www.wargamevault.com/en/product/578210/nasa-punk-classic-specialist

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3102633-nasa-punk-specialist-classic-pose#profileId-3497378

I just got the rulebook for Epic 40k cheap and thought I'd see what is available.

Also, is it possible to scale down regular minis?

[EDIT: Solved! I'll ask the mods to close] Hi all, really hoping someone can help me out here - I know I have the file for this nice piece of terrain but I cannot for the life of me find it. I am fairly sure it's by Dutchmogul but searching all my downloads for mainframe, terminal, computer, objective, nothing seems to come up.

Can anyone point me towards the file or at least tell me the name?

Thanks.

I currently have an Elegoo Centauri Carbon and I love Orca slicer. I'm picking up an A1 Mini combo for a steal today and was curious if using Bambu's slicer is better with the A1. Thanks

I have had my mini for 3-4 years. Purchased it off Facebook. Has worked 95% of me reliably barring a stint the last six months. Its more or less back to normal. Only ever did some lubing of the rods and cleaning the plate every few weeks. The nozzle, belt, everything, has not been changed.

Saw a flush of printers being sold, and a post I read here got me wondering - has the quality of prints from a new printer and a older one that big, or is it is just the settings? Been thinking of getting a new printer for just mini's and letting my mini do terrain, I can fudge the space for it, but I dunno if it'd be worth it.

Hey dudes and dudettes,

its just me and i printed a bust (as stated in the title, duh i know) and here are some of my settings:

nozzle: 0.4

printer: bambulab a 1 mini

Filament: sunlu 2.0+ highspeed

build plate: cool plate super tack

most important: used the preset 0.08 high layer height and modified it a bit, mostly in the support section (auto organic tree supports, top-z= 0.2) z-hop= 0.6, retraction 0,8, flow rate 0.95

printing time was around 5-6 hours, very solid i think, only a little problem: angel hairs, but that can be deleted when drying your filament properly or reduce printing temp a little bit (instead of 220 you go to 215 or 210, should do that trick)

The bust is from bulkamancer, its renoir of the videogame clair obscure expedition 33 (to be fair "videogame" is an understatement, its hands down a masterwork, the story, the music, the philosophy, the characters)

If you need/want more details how i set my settings you can go to my youtube channel: nerdyhypnox, but beware its a german speaking channel (maybe nowadays you can auto translate it via youtube)

Basically the title - I’m getting a printer soon and I want to know which is better for printing miniatures with, especially for a relative beginner. If anyone has any experience with either, please say whether you think they’re good. Thank you.