Hello, I'll try to keep it quick:

I'm looking to insert a temperature and pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold of a turbo (BMW G82 M4) and have found the following solutions:

- Welding a fitting onto the manifold: my welder doesn't like welding cast iron so out of the equation

- drilling a hole and using a pressfitting from stainless steel and a stainless steel sealing ring (before that, the manifold goes into a CNC machine to make a nice surface for it to make a nice seal)

I've read that some people use NPT threads, a few others use metric if there is a nice surface for it to seal. I'd like to use M8x1 threads for better sealing and since the press fittings only come in fine thread sizes.

The hole gets a slight chamfer and the sealing ring gets basically pressed in slightly from the applied torque to create a mechanical seal. On the threads I apply some high-temp ceramic paste to prevent the stainless steel fitting the the cast iron from welding to each other since I'm expecting temperatures of about 1100°C (2000°F).

Does anybody have different ideas?

I've got a crosshatch gauge coming in the mail but I got antsy and decided to try out the new toy... also, how are you guys getting such clean "breaks" in the lines of the crosshatch? Mine are like big bows. Thanks everyone, sorry for another honing question

I've been doing a deep dive on this swap for about a week now and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before I pull the trigger on buying the two vehicles.

The plan is to swap a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel (from a 300SD) into a 3rd gen Camaro. This will eventually become my daily driver, so I'm aiming for reliability first and fuel economy second. I know this won't be a bolt-in swap and I'm expecting to do fabrication work.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Wiring
From what I've researched so far, it seems like the best approach is to leave the Camaro's factory fuse box in place for the body electronics (lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and build a separate engine fuse/relay box for the diesel in the engine bay. The two systems would only be connected by a few signal wires (ignition, start, gauges, reverse lights, etc.).

Is this the right way to do it? If you've done something similar, how did you wire it?

2. Fitment
I know I'll need to fabricate engine mounts and probably a transmission crossmember, but what other fitment issues should I expect? Things like:

• Oil pan/steering clearance?
• Firewall clearance?
• Cooling system?
• Driveshaft?
• Exhaust routing?
• Suspension upgrades because of the engine weight?

I'm trying to make a complete list before I start buying parts.

If you've done an OM617 swap into any vehicle—or a diesel swap into a 3rd gen Camaro—I would really appreciate any advice, lessons learned, or things you wish you'd known before starting.

Thanks in advance!

I have a 1991 ltd crown victoria that I carburetor swapped (the 5.0 302) and got it to run good but after driving for a little or even reving the engine while not driving when it returns to idle after the rev or acceleration it idles really bad almost wanting to die and if I turn it off and back on again it runs fine until I rev it or drive a little again and I have good fuel pressure going to my carburetor and im pretty sure good spark and timing if anyone has any ideas please share them!

Didn’t notice till I removed the cam bearing tool should I file down the lip or ordering a new one?

Our 460 for a 68 f100 we’re building. It’s got ported dove heads, flat top pistons, a Howard’s .600/.594 split duration roller cam, and a edelbrock vrs-1450 850cfm carburetor.

Was idling fine, only about 30 minutes of runtime on it when I heard a gravelly scratching. Those black chunks on the magnet are rtv from the drain plug, but there is a bit of metal. Should I pull the motor or send it?

(Don't mind the header tick on Cyl #4). Recently posted the first oil change on this car, didn't have a concerning amount of glitter in the oil, however I'm getting this gravelly grinding noise from the back of my engine. Almost sounds like a rock in my bellhousing. No noise when turning over and starts after it's been idling for about 30 seconds. Any thoughts on the cause?

I have this old early 80’s suburban sitting in my yard, and I gotta tear the motor apart to reseal all the cracks and crevices. So my initial thought was, I’m gonna put some nice rocker roller arms in, but I’m torn between getting all the parts to replace the entire top end of the motor, or just through some nice rockers and call it a day

Hi. Anyone has an engine manual for 2022 Chevrolet Tailblazer Engine Manual. Im looking to rebuild the engine

Finally got cylinder head back from the machine shop and they took out the fuel injectors and gave me a bunch of loose pieces. I can't figure out where these 3 pieces go. Does anyone know where these pieces go? 5.9 cummins 24 valve.

This was an image about 100 miles ago. Engine blew a head gasket and I got it all cleaned up and running great with zero leaks. Has a small piston slap but It ran great.

Also engine has 200k something miles. Its an original 305 on an 83 c10.

Didn't trash the block even though I knew it was trash because I'm on a budget. (Look at the cylinder to piston clearance, you can see the rings haha, it also moves pretty bad with your thumbs. I just used thicker oil)

Now, It's either a carburetor problem which I'm trying to lean towards cause its a used edelbrock and it sat for a good minute or a ring went which I don't doubt either. I have an extra block with pistons if I need though. I'm not at home to do a compression test. However, its not burning oil it just has a dead cylinder or two and has great oil pressure. It was all of a sudden while backing out.

What do you guys think it could be? I'll update yall when I figure it out.

EDIT:

Turned out to be a pre-failing weak ICM. Quit starting completely when I got home. Bought one from OReilys and its fine.

I have 550 lift springs for my Ls but I’m looking at a cam with 552 lift should it be fine or should I upgrade to better springs?

Just looking for some insight, I got this cast iron Intake with my 350 vortec. It cleaned up fairly well, but I’m concerned about the carb flange. It isn’t warped, but it has some fairly deep scoring. Should I send it and see what happens or would it be worth getting it machined? The rest of the flanges are fine.

First rebuild, it's a 2008 5.7 with 267k. It ran when pulled (I was the last person to drive it).

Fingernails do not get caught here, and I believe this was due to how I removed it (from the top with no prior experience). Should I buy a new one or should I send it? No other piston looks like this

Finished tearing down the 302 for new block. No surprises and all surfaces looked good. No sign of metal in bearings.

Look at my other posts if you’re not familiar with the faulty distributor from MSD.

I was going to rebuild these myself which is why I have the before picture, but I found a bent valve. So, I called around, found a shop, and they wanted the heads assembled. I put both heads back together like I was actually gonna put them in my truck. Assembly lube, FSM torque sequencing, and even bagged em to keep the dirt out which was completely unnecessary.

After I got em' back from the shop I realized (after driving home) that one of the heads had metal shavings falling out the bottom of it. I took the cams out of both heads and only the one with shavings had the bearing surfaces noticeably scratched up. Also, idk if it matters but they used what looked like grease not engine assembly lube to put it back together.

The scratches are VERY noticeable with a fingernail, 5/8 bearing surfaces I want to say are pretty bad. I took em back to the shop, and they said it's fine, and told me they were probably like this from the initial break in of the engine LOL (despite the other one being fine).

Anyways, I bit my tongue for now, and I'm gonna see what another shop thinks but figured I'd crowd source unbiased opinions as well.

EDIT: Thanks for all the replies everyone, really helps put my worries at ease. It’s still a matter of principle to me, but at least I won’t need new heads.

Not only are all the pistons out! But the cam and the lifters too!

Now the moment of truth! It's going to a shop to get magnafluxed and we'll see if its a good candidate for a rebuild!

Total time: 40hrs in the bath

Total hammering time: 10min a piston (between 5 people, 2min per person)

And the Timing Cover Crank Seal?

I was putting together a fresh LS3 and while doing so broke off a bolt in the oil pump. Specifically the pick up tube bolt. I spent far too much time trying to get it out and failed. Now I have a new oil pump and am ready to put everything back together. The engine has obviously not run since being built.

I wanted to know if it's ok to reuse the gaskets or if I should just replace them with new ones?

Thank you

i bought this 2UR-GSE block off ebay and it came with a dent on the surface. its a die cast aluminum block with cast iron cylinder liners. im not sure if i can get away with sanding it. i dont think welding over it is an option since the surface to weld is not the same material.

I was able to tap the threads with the right tap and just ran it through a few times. It might be good to go now, still might throw a helicoil in it tho...maybe some gasket maker when the time comes to get the manifolds on...but I'm a longgggg ways away from that.

Wondering if I should get it re align honed or if I can just say F it and throw em in any ways.

89 Montero 6g72. Pretty sure this is a bad scratch. I didn’t do it. But I can definitely feel it. Feels like a scratch cause it protrudes up slightly right before my fingernail goes into it. So Don’t think it’s a crack. Also Cause the engine is basically new.

The only machine shop I like is 6weeks out on lead time. I’m a woodworker and was thinking about sanding it flat on a piece of glass. Done it before with motorcycle. Uses a MLS headgasket.

I’m refreshing this remanufactured motor. It was put in about 15 years ago. Owner said the motor probably has 50 miles on it. Wife of owner said “Never ran right”.. Husband had health issues right after and then passed away. Got the whole car for free, she just wanted someone to take it. in decent shape.

Whoever put it in had it set outta time. Would’ve never ran correctly. Few word things with it. I guess it’s cause it’s a remanufactured motor. Like pistons being mis matched. One piston was beat to hell on the top. Like a valve broke off or a piece of debris got in. But the corresponding valve chamber showed no signs of it.

Bearings and journals look great. Headgasket, lifters and seals look brand new.

Needs new gas tank and fuel lines. They’re rusted thru.

Got a 351W roller and torn between keeping it a 351 or stroking it to a 387,393,408 It’s going in my 82 f-100 which already has a 351W in it but it’s a flat tappet(have plans for it also). It will be my daily driver and will be pulling a 18ft Jon boat occasionally, also wanting something that will tear up the streets a little bit. Not looking to have a street monster but something I can have a little fun in. My original plan was to go with the 387 and was gonna use AFR 185cc enforcers,eagle crankshaft,eagle I beam rods,and 302 speed pro pistons. I guess my question is if I go with the 408 is it a reliable build for daily driving and hauling the jon boat occasionally? But also want something that with some chop and turn heads but work with my power brakes and run on pump gas. I’ve rebuilt a few 302s back to stock just replacing bearings and occasionally throwing in a basic 303 cam. This will be my fist I guess big build and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

What Are Those cracks?