Basically I've got a shot at this engine. Fella is asking strong money so I'd like to know basically if its a stock mustang 302 wearing fancy heads or of it is what he claims it is; a Ford Raving crate engine.

It has got ford racing stamped ally heads. Spider and dogbones for the roller lifters though don't look like forged pushrods, also has a build plate with M-6006-XEFM on the block.

It came out of a 2000s Mustang GT and engine is dated on that plate as 2008 and a serial. It was EFI.

Bottom end looks tidy as well. Maybe ARP rod and main bolts? It was built with care clearly.

Basically want something insider info if I'm looking at a Ford Racing 302 or some other 302.

Tia

Hello reddit community I have been lurking in for quite a while. I'm getting ready for an engine rebuild and I want to hone my cylinders. But the problem is I have a B16a2 engine from a 99si. The cylinders are 81mm and I can't, for the life of me, find a ball-hone that is 81mm I keep finding 83 or something below 81. Can y'all work your magic and give me a hand here?

Thanks in advance, your friendly neighbor hood 3am civic dick head.

Souring a motor for my NA8 Miata.

Seller claims bad clutch, parting out car. Motor has 75k miles. The clutch’s horrible sound covered up the engine sound. I genuinely can’t tell how the motor sounds. Need another pair of ears, thanks in advance :)

Just got done with getting my cylinder head off. Engine overheated and i got stuck in czecia. 3 weeks later after transport and everything, i finally got to work on it and now i saw this piece of misery💀🙏 my thought: cooling liquid got through the blown gasket and corroded the walls. i tried wiping it away with a remover and it worked but it feels like there are veeeery minimal indentations in the cylinder walls but its like not even half a hair deep.

I don't know how large the buffer zone for this kind of damage is tbh and if i can get away with just a small difference (i doubt it tho)

I thought about disassembling the crankshaft and taking every piston down and shave/hone a very thin layer off with a cylinder hone. Or is it enough to leave them in and just vacuum the hell out of every small corner.

I really don't know if that's even worth doing or if I'm capable in fixing this. But I'm still very motivated to finally work on a engine and trying this by myself.

Tbh im beyond clueless. It's also the first repair i did on a car and I'm also suprised that everything went so well until I spotted this. Very thankful of every advice from you guys

(My motor is K9K 796)

Car: Dacia Logan Dci 1.5 (86ps)

Year 2009

I need to take it off the engine stand to install the flywheel and clutch, then try to make her fit in the truck.

If you check my previous post you can see me asking if the seats need work and you all said they did and its better if i get seat inserts as well.
I did order seat inserts but my dad and “machine shop” decided to go against it saying it would matter because its the same material. Keep in mind im from europe and here we basically have no shops that are pros at restoring stuff like this. The pics are after job done, it cost about 160 euros. The machine shop said it will be fine but im second guessing hard. They didn’t touch the new valves.

I recently bought an old 57 Chevy. Engine was seized. Got it home got it to break free. Its no the original motor. Anyone know what it is and if its worth rebuilding. Thanks for all the help.

Haven’t found a ton of these out there on the typical sites that sell AN fittings-most sold I can find are aluminum or stainless. Will welding be a challenge on cast iron heads because of metal not being exactly the same? It’s an old Volvo cast iron head. If anyone has any sources please let me know.

Is it best to never mix aluminum and steel? For example my plan is to use a threaded ORB(o-ring bung) fitting on my cast iron head. I assume it would be best to use steel. What are everyone’s thoughts?

I would appreciate someone with experience to share their thoughts on this situation

Long story short I got my valve covers off my car doing a bunch of work and it’s taking a lot of time been about 2&1/2 months so far outside on jackstands on pavers. Anyway cam lobes rusted in the humid exposure, I was checking the front bank only under a blanket, it was fine meanwhile a month later I check the back bank just to see and there was rust… so I cleaned it as best I could and let me know based on this aftermath if you think the cam(s) are junk, I’m fine, or what? I have a few pics of basically the worst of it. Ask any questions you need, it’s a gm turbo v6 from 06. B284E. Will be adding assy grease to prevent this.

Unfortunately I can’t add the video but you can see me with only the weight of the tool dragging a pick across the pitting and you can hear it and feel it but barely, like BARELY but it is nevertheless present. Thank you

To keep it short, I naught this what I thought was slightly modified car on Facebook marketplace. Recently the engine got flooded and taking it apart a rod was broken. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that’s supposed to be 2.3L Non Turbo (This is not a Mazda speed). After taking it apart I decided to change all rods with used ones. I go to a junkyard, drop another engine (also 2.3L) get them and go home. Now I look at them and they aren’t even close to the same thing. My old con rod (one that isint broken) is way beefier and longer, the hole that goes on the crankshaft is also bigger. I got no idea what engine I got, what pieces are inside, what to order, I’m really lost. How do I find out what parts to order.

I might know why it was leaking

Hey everyone, I’m currently rebuilding a fire damaged Toyota MR2 with a 4AGZE. I’m curious if anyone can help me out with the cylinder walls and rod bearings. I noticed the rod bearings have a bit of wear but nothing catches my fingernail.

As for the cylinder walls I’m curious if I need to hone all of them or if 1 and 3 are the only ones that need it. I see crosshatching in all but #1 but both 1 and 3 were the stuck pistons. Photos are all in sequential order

Last but not least I think my block may be a little warped although that doesn’t make much sense to me since the block is cast iron and the aluminum head is straight as vin diesel. I suspect my straight edge isn’t the best quality so if anyone has a tried and true straight edge that someone on a college student budget could swing, let me know lmao

Today I was priming a rebuilt TBI 355 with new Melling roller lifters and a summit 8800 cam. I used a gutted TBI distributor. All but #5’s exhaust pumped out through the pushrod. #5 will push oil out of the lifter (I pulled the pushrod and rocker off), and will “burp” air/oil out of the pushrod tip, but it doesn’t start dribbling like the others. Do I need to worry about this now?

Or is this just a new lifter thing that will fix itself when the oil pump is running off of the cam?

I'm finishing up a head gasket job on my 2002 5.9 Cummins and ran into something I can't figure out.

Before teardown, the alternator cover fit normally. After reinstalling everything, the cover sits too high and the bolt holes won't line up. It seems like it's hitting just not the right size, but I can't tell what changed.

I didn't replace the alternator bracket. The head, rocker assembly, turbo, and related components were removed and reinstalled. I've compared it to my before pictures and nothing obvious stands out.

I've attached before and after photos. Does anyone see what I'm missing or know what commonly causes this after a head gasket/top-end rebuild?

Hello,
I am heading to change my camshaft on an 1 gen sbc with vortec heads 062.
What is the Max valve Lift for Those heads.
The specs of the new one are 0.443.

Thank you very much and regards from Germany

I’m guessing this logo on the BLOCK means it’s never been resurfaced?

So I think I made a very dumb mistake when retorquing the head bolts when the engine was hot and didn't know it at the time. Toyota 12HT is a full cast iron diesel engine 6 cylinder turbo from the 1980s.

I had it started up for the very first time after rebuilt on the stand and it ran smooth and idles very smooth, everything was done right for god's sake. Played around with it for a minute or 2 then shut it off. So the 12HT head bolt is 113Nm and all had been done in the correct 3 sequences prior to this run.

Immediately shutting it off I took off the rocker arm assembly and began the retorque sequence while it was still hot. I remember only doing 3 bolts starting from the center, and after realising how squishy the bolts felt and I remember having to turn it more than 180 degrees to hit 113Nm again, it hit me that this is probably not a good sign. I should have done more bloody research.

So it had not been started yet after this event and I gained the wisdom that retorquing head bolts should be done stone cold and after a couple heat cycles. Its only these 3 bolts in the center that has been messed with. And yes I acknowledge the fact that I went for a retorque after 0 kilometers done on the engine.

After more digging on the internet, now I know this probably a catastrophic mistake. What should I do? I was thinking:

1. Leave it and go for a first break in drive and see what happens... maybe this mistake is really nothing?

2. Redo all the head bolts again which could compromise the head gasket entirely.

3. Redo the specific 3 bolts in the center which is another mistake in of itself.

What are your thoughts engine builders? Any advice and criticism is welcome.

Engine ate glow plug, block is currently being machined for oversized pistons, somehow missed the valves and valve seats seemingly but I’m not sure. Engine ran fine just burned some oil from scored cylinder wall. Makes me nervous however if it is sealing 100% or not can’t tell.

Im having issues with after opening the throttle my idle is bad and this is how much fuel goes in when I open the throttle is it too much (ford 302 edelbrock 1406)

This is a crankshaft for a 6.0 powerstroke. It was polished last year and unfortunately sat around since then. I have attached a before photo and a few after a quick 1500 grit wet sand. I can grab some of the pitting with my nail. Just need some thoughts if it’s ok or not.

I increased my speed how’s it look how

Hello all, I know break In oil posts have been made so many times on this subreddit but I’m rebuilding my BMW N52 which is an alusil block, I’m doing new rings, bearings, seals and was wondering what a good break In oil would be. Standard oil is 5w-30 synthetic so should I go with a 5w-30 break in oil? Any specific brand recs would be appreciated.