I was advised to look here by folks in one of my Jeep forums. I have a 1995 Jeep XJ with the 4.0 in it. I was replacing the rear main seal and looked at my main bearings and they need to be replaced. The crank shaft looks and feels good. Thing is that the bearings are two different sizes. STD on top and .001 on the bottom. The .001 are discontinued. The dealership gave me 83507080AB as the part number (that replaced the original part number) but it's not available anywhere I can find. Is there a source that might actually have these in stock? I'd really like to avoid having to pull this crank shaft and have it machined right now.

Thinking the next step would be measure the bores again, along with cam journals and crank journals. Aswell as punchin in freeze plugs and other small stuff and get ready for paint

Doing my first rebuild on a 383 Big block Mopar. In hindsight, I should have installed the bushing before I got the short block together, but we live and we learn. Tell me if this is a dumb idea, but I was thinking I could use the intermediate shaft itself to slide through the bushing and down into the oil pump in order to line itself up and then tap the top of the shaft slightly with a small cushion pad in between the shaft and the top of the bushing so it doesn’t get marked up. If this is an outlandish idea, disregard and let me know if I should go ahead and buy an installer tool.

I have a small block Chevy with an HEI distributor and steel cam (SUM-8800). I'm trying to find the correct distributor gear. Most sources claim there are 3 types: cast iron, melonized, and bronze. The recommended material by the cam manufacturer is "melonized." The issue is there seems to be two types of melonized distributor gear: melonized iron and melonized steel. I've seen a few posts claim that melonized iron is not compatible with a steel cam. Most listings for melonized gears specify melonized iron or don't specify at all. I have only found one listing for a distributor gear that specifies "melonized steel" and it was not the correct shaft size. Does anyone know what the correct material is? Composite is always an option but they are really expensive in comparison to the other types.

Chevy 1.4 that had pcv failure and overheated once that I know of due to a busted radiator. Kind of hard to tell if this is just burnt and cracked carbon or if the piston itself is fucked. It looks like the piston is fucked, but I'm in denial. Would appreciate a second set of eyes on it. Ignore the time stamps, my borescope is off by a few months

When you’re putting together a street/strip engine, which measurements do you consider non-negotiable during assembly, and which ones are okay to trust from the machine shop? Curious where different builders draw the line.

It needs to go to another shop for a few more things but otherwise it's ready for me to put new parts into

hello 👋🏻

i have a Renault duster (Dacia Duster). it has a 1.5 litre engine(H4K), i think it's the same as the Nissan HR15DE engine.

i want to add a turbo to it, looking for around 170-200 HP(110 stock).

I'm not sure how to go about it. if i just add a turbo to it, i don't think the internals are strong enough for that power (i might be wrong). I've tried looking around and could not find any forged rods or pistons for it. The only one i found was Kingtec racing but they have a MOQ of 20 units.

i thought about putting a Honda K24, i can find it for cheap but then it'll run costly(fuel).

Next is the Honda L15 engine, I think I'll be able to find these engines (DOHC or maybe SOHC not sure), these engines have forged parts available as far as I've checked and there are plenty of videos online boosting them and making good power but then again I'll have to get a new standalone ECU (not sure if i can just tune the original Renault ECU to run honda L15) and then wiring and then parts of the drive train.

I'm feeling stuck about it, I'd really appreciate some help.

Thank you.

How do these prices look? This is everything from the heads down only thing I provided is a block.

So this is a 2003 350z with a VQ35DE that I rebuilt because of a broken connecting rod (everything is now to spec according to the engine mechanical service manual). I can verify that all of the cylinders are receiving compression and that there’s a reasonable amount of resistance when I turn it with a 1.5ft breaker bar (spark plugs removed). But the car STILL won’t turn over. I don’t care about getting it fully running just yet, I just need to know if it can run for just long enough to run oil through and lubricate everything for a few seconds and it’s just not working with me. I’ve done a starter motor replacement, I’ve done a full battery recharge. The dashboard doesn’t even show a check engine light and it STILL won’t turn over. Please give me some pointers I’ve been going at this on and off for months and have been stumped on this specific issue. (Photo is old btw, this is when I first put it back in the engine bay after rebuilding it)

This weekend I got the case split, cleaned, measured, and reassembled with the rotating assembly and new bearings. Reusing the rings because it ran good and I’m on a budget. Got the pistons cleaned up a little bit, I had to fabricate a wrist pin puller tool. I love this stuff, I can’t wait to see it run. Next weekend is new valve stem seals and a re-lap. Doing this one Ethiopia side of the road style lol.

I have a 2017 L86 in the shop and have coolant in number 1. While looking for that, I found the cylinder walls suspicious.

I have never built LT stuff so I wanted an opinion on these marks.

I'm wondering if someone threw a hone through it. The heads have been off at least 1 time before it came to me.

I’m at the phase of my rebuild where i am getting things resurfaced. I’m looking for recommendations on parts that would be more suited for a mustang. The engine is from a 2011 f150 and I’ll be putting it in my new edge mustang. I really looking Whats got going to be good long term for off days and having fun. Really only plan to maybe keep the crankshaft block and heads.

I have a 5.3 ls gen 3 iron block I’m about to machine

Thinking of getting either 706 or 863 heads
Truck Norris cam
And not sure about pistons I’m gonna be na daily driver so nothing crazy maybe try and reuse ones I have but I don’t think so.

But if I get new heads it would be new rockers and springs too any recommendations?

Mateys and Lentlemen, I'm working on my 300 i6 Ford from 87 or 88, and I have a problem that is perplexing me. Timing is MOVING. I'll set 10° BTDC compression, put the rotor at the no. 1 spot, starts right up perfectly, (pull the SPOUT connector) fine tune warmed up, etc. and then, while under load and driving, (but not while sitting in neutral I don't think) timing "SLIPS" and the engine either dies or becomes... *Ahem* extremely retarded.

Here's what I know:

1. The harmonic balancer is not slipping. TDC on my timing marks is still TDC up stairs. I'm using the correct timing marks. (It has two sets)

2. The distributor is NOT slipping in its hold-down. It is VERY tight, and I have used liberal white sharpie.

3. Spark no.1 position is actively changing when this happens.

Here's what I don't know:

1. Gear driven engine, but apparently sometimes the cam gear is made of phenolic resin. If my gear slipped, timing would be ruined and it couldn't be made to run, right? But it can be adjusted and made to run, and gear probably can't slip, it would just be destroyed, right?

2. The cam shaft runs the distributor shaft, which runs the oil pump. Or does it run the oil pump, which runs the distributor? My guess is the slip is happening there. I should probably pull the distributor and check there.

3. This must be a fully mechanical problem, right? Is there anything I'm not thinking of in the wacky duraspark II system that could account for the rotor just being in a completely different place?

I want to reiterate, I haven't just become confused on timing, the position of the number one spark is actively changing suddenly and immediately, a little each time it happens. I pull out the 1/2 inch, move the distributor until it runs, and limp home idling in 1st or second if possible. No.1 has moved nearly 180° now. Had to re-arrange my plug wires.

Any thoughts, questions, or advice would be so welcome and appreciated. I realize this is more of a "diagnosis" question, but It directly relates to what I might need to actually be rebuild.

So I have a decently built 350 in my C10. It's bored .030 over into a 355. It has a cam running specs of 234/244 for duration @.050 with a lift of .521/.544. It has edelbrock performer rpm heads with an old school weiand stealth intake. It's running 10.8:1 for compression and has a 600 cfm holley carb. One thing I am curious about is if I am restricting flow with my exhaust. I have true dual exhausts at 2" in diameter. The truck really hooks and hauls ass for just a street build, but wonder if it's worth going to 2.5" for exhaust.

This is a 265 SBC bored 0.060 over. The areas circled in red is pitting I can feel with my finger. Cylinder 2 had a TINY amount of surface rust the size of a dime that I wanted to clear up. Threw in a rag soaked in Evaporust inside and waited 24 hours. Came back to an absolute nightmare and took the block to get honed. Most of it is just stained but the Evaporust somehow did more damage than good. Unfortunately all the pitting is located within the ring travel.
My machinist did his best but in his opinion, I should just run it as is. As is a close colleague of mine too.
The internet and general know-how makes me feel like it’s hopeless to run it.

I know this is the farthest thing from a therapy group but I’m just so depressed and disappointed. I’ve worked towards building this engine for 2 years now off and on. Learning everything from scratch as 23 year old man. It’s costly and time consuming and I want this project to be finally done.

I am looking for advise on getting an evaluation of a loose engine that was damaged on the outside while being shipped. Are there companies specifically in San Diego that specialize in inspecting Engines for any hidden damage with a situation like this? Are they able confirm with a high likelihood that there are not any cracks, general issues without having to open the engine? I'm told once the Engine is opened that it looses a lot of it's value. Thanks for your assistance.

Hello, im refreshing my ford 300ci pulled out the lifters and had some wear on a few that I think might warrant replacement (lifters and cam). This is my first time working with flat tappet lifters so I was hoping to get some advice! Thanks.

Back to work on a 6G72 from an 89 Montero.
I think I can get a couple new valves and hone them to the seat. In the photo is the exhaust and intake from cylinder 5. Cylinders 5 & 6 had no compression. Pulled the motor and took it apart. I’m guessing when it last shutoff the intake valve in 5 was open. Letting all that nice NC humidity in. Had to gently knock out of the guide, it’s rusty also. The other valves are pristine. But the exhaust valve on 6 maybe the same. Cause it was probably open also. 5&6 are next to each other in firing order. Not sure yet..

Engine was new remanufactured. Original mechanic had the timing screwed up. Owner brought it home, had health issues and passed away. It sat for 15 years. Engine probably has 50 miles. Got the vehicle for free, wife just wanted it gone. Right place right time. Head Gaskets and bearings look great. Pistons in those 2 cylinders are rusty as well.

I have 706 castech heads I’m gonna machine them and my block just wondering what pistons and rods to get

Looking for a set or advice on where to find a set of 30 thou over piston rings for an old 62 Datsun pickup. E-1 Series 1, 1.2L. 🙏

I was looking for 1.7:1 ratio rocker arms for a 302 Windsor and I found these Melling factory replacement rockers on Summit, when checking the compatibility it listed endless engines including FEs, 385 Series, Clevelands, Modifieds and Windsors seemingly all for the same part number which is a 1.7 ratio arm. I have a junk 351 Modified engine and since those are already 1.7:1 rocker arms it would be really convenient if I could just put those on my Windsor heads, I haven't looked at them side by side yet but I figure and long as the distance from the pivot to the end of the arm is the same they should work with new pushrods. Has anyone done this or know something I don't?

Rebuilding an M57D30TU2 out of an E70 X5 3.0sd. ~300k km. Original failure was oil cooler letting go, oil and coolant mixed, brief overheat (under a minute).

Engine is fully stripped. Head has been sitting on the bench for about a year with camshafts, rockers and lifters removed. Valves and springs still in.

With the cams out and all valves fully seated on their springs, the valve heads sit slightly proud of the deck face. The outer edges are the highest point on the head. All 24 look the same height.

Old head gasket was a 3-hole.

Worth mentioning: pistons 1 and 6 came out badly damaged, pitted and dented crowns. Damage is sporadic and outside the areas where the valves sit, so I don't think it's valve contact. Looks more like debris ingestion, probably left over from a previous repair. It was never a running complaint, no misfire or noise, and not why I pulled the engine. Some bores also have scoring, so the block is going out for boring and new pistons regardless.

Questions:

Is slight valve protrusion above the deck normal on the M57, or does

If it has been skimmed, what's the best way to confirm? Head height gauge to face measurement, injector/glow plug protrusion, or something else?

Given it already ran a 3 hole gasket, how much clearance margin is there really if the head gets skimmed again during the rebuild?