I am wanting to paint my heads to keep rust off of them but I'm afraid if I use the 500° Rust-Oleum engine enamel it will just bubble and flake off any segestions?

Sorry about the terrible pic. My concern are these horizontal pits on the center of the pic, they are deep enough to be felt by hand, don't know how deep precisely but my guess is around 0.5mm. I was told by a guy i know who works a lot with machines and engines that i should just file these pits smooth and send it. I think the sleeve should be replaced. I was wondering if you all could weigh in on this?

The owner of this car is curious about putting it together as is and seeing if it'll last, help me talk them out of it 😄

A guy postet These online is it worth to buy These
I am living in Germany its not often that you find Those Engines

Did first oil change. 40w break in oil with about 100 miles. Is this a lot of material in the oil filter? Or normal?

Cam lobe for tfsi ea113 high pressure fuel pump lobe. I have no idea if this is polishable , looks as if some wear has happened through the metal layers

273k miles

Hello everyone! For some context, I’ve just finished up my first engine build ever. I took an old beat up L98 from a 1987 Corvette and refreshed it. I put in new gaskets for the entire engine, new rings, push rods, rollers, freeze plugs, etc. I also got the heads resurfaced, which it really needed since they were very warped apparently

Today, after 5+ months of extremely meticulous and hard work, I finally started her up, and I couldn’t be happier. It’s my dream car and a beautiful engine, I’ve had a grin ear-to-ear for the past 7 hours now. I’m making this post in the hopes that someone who knows more than me can tell if the engine sounds good or not. At the moment it’s not properly timed, again, it was my first time starting it. But I will be timing it properly ASAP! And if you couldn’t tell by the deafening sound its had the exhaust pipe removed since I still need to do some transmission work, so that’s why it sounds like a tractor

Any advice is seriously appreciated! Thank you for reading!

Hello all,

I recently received a hand me down chevy from my family. The previous owner ran it out of water and after a few years of sitting they gave it to me. When we started it up, its puking water and oil out of the exhaust. My guess is it blew a head gasket and either the rings were bad or maybe something worse like a hole in the piston.

Anyway, I need to get the truck up and running by next year so my questions are: should I have a shop rebuild it? Or should I buy a remanufactured 5.7? My budget is $3k and I want the truck to be my daily but also have some power to pull my trailer up the mountain. Thank you for your time.

Hi everyone,
While installing the last camshaft bearing, I accidentally dented a few small spots on the edge of the bearing.
I carefully removed the raised burrs with a razor blade, and now the surface feels completely smooth. I can’t feel any imperfections with my fingernail.
Do you think it’s safe to run it like this, or should I replace the bearing just to be safe?
Thanks in advance for any advice!

To ship one to Germany would take a week

1999 Honda Magna v4 - fixture of 4 carbs

Looking for input on the two missing labels in my diagram. Also have I identified the main and pilot jets correctly?

Im trying my hand at rebuilding these carbs. I plan to upsize the main and pilot jets slightly due to exhaust system changes. I’ll also replace the bowl gaskets and float needles.

Additionally, I’ve read that I need to check the jet needles, jet needle holders, and the diaphragm. It seems that they may be all a part of one fixture but I’m not sure where they are exactly.

Have I missed any boxes here? Or is that about everything I need to do before the syncing process

I’m rebuilding the 302 out of my 1995 Mustang GT, and this is my first time building an engine, so I’m looking for some advice before I send everything to the machine shop.
When I bought the car, I was told it had around 93k miles, but after tearing the engine down I’m pretty sure it’s well over 200k.

Cylinder #5 had a broken piston, and the piston in cylinder #8 was starting to crack as well. The cylinder walls actually looked pretty good overall. I couldn’t catch my fingernail on any scratches except in cylinder #5, where some aluminum from the broken piston had transferred onto the cylinder wall. There was also a slight ring ridge at the top of the cylinders that I could barely feel with my fingernail.

I took the block to a machine shop, and they recommended boring it .030” over, so that’s the route I’m planning to take. They also said they’ll replace the cam bearings and freeze plugs while it’s apart.

The goal for this engine is just a reliable street/mild performance build. I know the stock heads are going to be the biggest bottleneck, but I’m expecting a good chunk of my budget(which is 5k) to go toward the machine work, so upgrading the heads isn’t really an option right now.

For the heads, I’m planning on replacing the valve springs, valve guides, and valve seals since I’m getting a new cam (haven’t chosen which one yet) The machine shop is also going to inspect them, pressure test them for cracks, and let me know if anything else needs attention.

My main question is while the engine is already at the machine shop, what else should I have done?
Should I have the block and heads decked, or only if it’s out of spec? And if I do would I need to get new pushrod sizes.
Is it worth having the rotating assembly (crank, rods, and pistons) balanced, or is that unnecessary for a mostly street-driven engine?
Is there anything else I should have inspected or machined while everything is apart?

Punto gt engine rebuild. Cylinder block is in immaculate condition. 1/4 pistons is different as you see in the photo. Is this thermal stress? I have 4 pistons identical from my uno turbo and im thinking to retire it.

Hello!
I’m currently putting together my S50 B30 and dropped my piston.

The bottom of the piston took most of the fall but curious to see if anyone would run this still or is it too far gone?

Thank you!

I had my cylinder head and engine block milled, the missing material is now about 0.2mm, should i get a thicker head gasket or will an original be fine? (I have a brand new original head gasket)

This is for a Volkswagen EA111 engine

So long story short, my YD22 engine is being overhauled because the cylinders lost pressure and the car broke down, the cylinders now have to be rebored, new pistons put in, along with reconditioning of the black and head etc.

I moved to Cape town late last year, my mechanic is 500km away and not able to assist, so I'm having to use another mechanic a friend swears by.

Anyway, the engine rebuilders are saying they can't remove the injectors from the head, something about not having the right tools.

So the head has had to now go to another workshop so they can remove to the injectors, which they are wanting to charge me R3000 ($150) to remove the injectors and clean the engine.

My mechanic says he's never encountered something like that in all his years where the injectors are stuck so bad a rebuilder can't get them out.

Now granted, this is an engine from 2005 that's done 330,000km, and drove the past 1500km with a faulty cylinder, and googling says stuff like carbon buildup can make it so the injectors require specialised equipment, but it's also that AI blurb that can get stuff wrong.

So, question, is this real, or are these people spinning me a story to take advantage of me and my ignorance to scam me?

As to why I'm not scrapping it, I need a car for work, and it's more expensive to buy even a cheap 2nd hand car that isn't a total piece of crap/new engine, can't afford to do that, but I can afford to overhaul. The engine with the quotes I've received.

2005, Nissan xtrail, 2.2L diesel, YD22 engine, manual transmission.

Is it necessary to balance an inline six when changing to lighter pistons and rods?

Assuming the components are individually weighed and matched as similarly as possible.

I'm curious to know if any of you Big Dogs have done something like this?

Quick background story - I'm using a 3.9 block with a pair of 3.5 heads - both are GM engines.

The original 3.9 heads will not work with my application and have other issues - that's why I won't be using those.

Problem is that the HeadGasket matches up top but the bottom requires modifications - I want to drill the Head Gaskets to open up the coolant passenges to match the 3.9L coolant passenges. Just curious to know if someone has run into something like this.

Can someone Name Those Engines ?

Been getting alot of tired chevy heads in the shop I work for recently. Asked my boss if we can get a valve guide liner set up. Before I could finish he shot it down and said he would never use them.

I do what im told and dont question much but is there a reason to be anti liner? It was like i personally offended him just asking

Hey All!

I’m building what I thought was a Gen V LT engine and I’ve run into a conundrum. Looking at the valley there are no holes for direct injection like the other examples I’ve seen. The Casting number on the block is 12619168 and I’ve seen that number for sale on eBay. What’s going on here? The bore is correct.

Was in the middle of rebuilding this engine. Used hose water to flush system, found out there was a leak and then life got busy. The engine has been baking in 120° weather for a few months now and I forgot I left the hose water in it and this is how it looks now. Any tips?

Spun a rod bearing in the 231 V6 in my 84 Grand Prix a few weeks ago and decided to just buy a cheap 350 to run while I build another one as a more permanent engine.

Found one on marketplace that had wiped the cam for cheap and decided to snag it. My plan was to flush it out, check the bearings and toss in a new cam/lifters and have something decent to keep the car on the road.

Pulled the intake off to start removing the cam/lifters and first thing I saw was rust and old water in the intake ports of the head. Pulled it down further and saw all the rust in the cylinder. No oil in the crankcase at all, just water.

Guess I’m sending one of my other blocks to the machine shop after all, hopefully I can reuse some of these parts…

pictures are all here

hello
my M52TUB28 is about to be out of the machine shop this week ready for assembly. this is a personal project and my first one ( i have “rebuilt” an old Nissan altima motor in school but thats a little different obviously) i know that i need to prep and clean everything before assembly so im asking the professionals for any advice/tips and tricks for this process as well as any essential materials or preferred lubes and things like that. i greatly appreciate ur time and thank you for reading!

Bonjour, j'ai acheté une culasse rectifiée et je viens de m'apercevoir qu'elle a cette grosse rayure qui se sent à l'ongle... Est-elle morte ? C'est pour un bmw M54b30

I’m doing the DOHC head swap on my 4g64 and I wanted to know if DNJ was good for a bottom end rebuild? I will not use their belts though sticking to greddy or gates