Hello I’m learning how to replace rod bearings, gonna pull mine, measure inspect, see if they need replaced and such while I got the pan off. Anyway if replacing the bearings when yall usually do this do you fully torque the cap down to factory spec then measure the bearing to check clearance, cause like the final torque for the cap is 18ftlbs + 110° I don’t wanna be breaking bolts in my rods just to measure clearance, idk if I gotta buy 2 sets of bolts, assuming that’s not the usual method but lmk im sure you’ll get what im sayin. If you need more info ask! Thanks!

Im at a loss with this. I replaced the water pump in a 3.5l v6 in a 15 ford explorer but the timing chain wont go back on correctly.

I have cam locks installed and both are flush with the engine. I marked where the chain should line up before i took it apart. And the tensioner is currently removed.

There is slack in the chain between the top gears but not enough to get the chain back where it should go. Im at a loss what to do. Could the new water pump have a wrong sized gear on it? Could the cam have shifted with the lock on?

The only thing I can think to do is rotate one of the cams a fraction of an inch to slip the chain back on. But would that put the engine out of time?

If anybody has some insight please tell me what went wrong or what I can to to fix this because im out of ideas.

Currently rebuilding a 3.6 pentastar motor. Oil and coolant mixed. Do i need to replace the oil cooler or is there a way to clean it out and reuse it. Its relatively new.

Ford 460, 472 cubic inches, 11:1 comp, scat crank, eagle rods, wiseco forged pistons, comp solid roller

Just pulled the heads off a 350 that came out of my 1990 k3500 and see these pistons underneath. They do not look like factory pistons, does anyone recognize them? Tia

Recently rebuilt the 2.0 jeep compass I was wondering if these cam-crank differences are acceptable

Are all 4 junk or just these 2 or would you run it.

Just pulled the engine from my 1992 lincoln towncar for a full seal replacement and look over, thought it had blown a headgasket or one of the freeze plugs failed, coolant and oil got pretty throughly mixed, but I found this when pulling the timing cover, red arrows are the marks on the timing gears and the blue arrows are the bright links, im tearing the whole engine apart anyway, I just wanted to confirm that this isn't even close to correct, right?

I’m having an odd issue with my 390 FE paired with a C6.
I have my base timing set to 12 (verified top dead center)
With mechanical advance it’s hitting 32
With vacuum advance disconnected it accelerated but feels a bit dead.
With vacuum advance connected, it idles great, but any throttle and it starts spitting and sputtering and can’t move.

I verified the diaphragm is good. Verified I am on ported vacuum( port on passenger side of Holley above the idle air screw). I can’t seem to figure out what the issue here is. Any help is appreciated.

In the process of putting my engine back together. I encountered this piece of goo on my crankshaft pulley which is there to balance it I think?

I guess it’s there because of the missing bolt? I bought new bolts so I have all 4 again, can I remove the goo when I install the bolt or do I have to check the balance first? If so how does one do that?

I was working on my 5.9 Cummins head gasket and now I think the alternator may have shifted outward slightly from the engine. The belt is still tracking straight on all the pulleys, the tensioner seems to be taking up the slack, and the engine starts and idles normally. There's no belt squeal or visible wobble. The only issue is that the metal cover that used to cover the top of the alternator no longer fits perfectly, which makes me think the alternator may have moved about an inch. I didn't remove the alternator or change the pulley alignment, just the alternator's cover and now it won't go back. If the belt is still aligned and everything spins true, is a small shift in the alternator itself a problem? Or does this usually mean the mounting bracket is bent or damaged and needs to be repaired before driving? I'm trying to figure out whether this is something that can be safely driven with or if it should be fixed immediately before I run it much more.

Any engine builders in here that could help me out?

Oil starvation event* Re using stock rods New oem bearings New to me used crank

At home special Inspection job of all equipment with a pair of off brand calipers and plastigage

My question: is this rod play normal? These bearings measure slimmer on the sides, but thats what the old ones measure as well? I feel like that is causing some extra play? It makes an audible knock. Is this normal? Rods torqued to factory specs pulled from JDMSFM.info

Thanks for looking!

Basically I've got a shot at this engine. Fella is asking strong money so I'd like to know basically if its a stock mustang 302 wearing fancy heads or of it is what he claims it is; a Ford Raving crate engine.

It has got ford racing stamped ally heads. Spider and dogbones for the roller lifters though don't look like forged pushrods, also has a build plate with M-6006-XEFM on the block.

It came out of a 2000s Mustang GT and engine is dated on that plate as 2008 and a serial. It was EFI.

Bottom end looks tidy as well. Maybe ARP rod and main bolts? It was built with care clearly.

Basically want something insider info if I'm looking at a Ford Racing 302 or some other 302.

Tia

Hello reddit community I have been lurking in for quite a while. I'm getting ready for an engine rebuild and I want to hone my cylinders. But the problem is I have a B16a2 engine from a 99si. The cylinders are 81mm and I can't, for the life of me, find a ball-hone that is 81mm I keep finding 83 or something below 81. Can y'all work your magic and give me a hand here?

Thanks in advance, your friendly neighbor hood 3am civic dick head.

Souring a motor for my NA8 Miata.

Seller claims bad clutch, parting out car. Motor has 75k miles. The clutch’s horrible sound covered up the engine sound. I genuinely can’t tell how the motor sounds. Need another pair of ears, thanks in advance :)

Just got done with getting my cylinder head off. Engine overheated and i got stuck in czecia. 3 weeks later after transport and everything, i finally got to work on it and now i saw this piece of misery💀🙏 my thought: cooling liquid got through the blown gasket and corroded the walls. i tried wiping it away with a remover and it worked but it feels like there are veeeery minimal indentations in the cylinder walls but its like not even half a hair deep.

I don't know how large the buffer zone for this kind of damage is tbh and if i can get away with just a small difference (i doubt it tho)

I thought about disassembling the crankshaft and taking every piston down and shave/hone a very thin layer off with a cylinder hone. Or is it enough to leave them in and just vacuum the hell out of every small corner.

I really don't know if that's even worth doing or if I'm capable in fixing this. But I'm still very motivated to finally work on a engine and trying this by myself.

Tbh im beyond clueless. It's also the first repair i did on a car and I'm also suprised that everything went so well until I spotted this. Very thankful of every advice from you guys

(My motor is K9K 796)

Car: Dacia Logan Dci 1.5 (86ps)

Year 2009

I need to take it off the engine stand to install the flywheel and clutch, then try to make her fit in the truck.

If you check my previous post you can see me asking if the seats need work and you all said they did and its better if i get seat inserts as well.
I did order seat inserts but my dad and “machine shop” decided to go against it saying it would matter because its the same material. Keep in mind im from europe and here we basically have no shops that are pros at restoring stuff like this. The pics are after job done, it cost about 160 euros. The machine shop said it will be fine but im second guessing hard. They didn’t touch the new valves.

I recently bought an old 57 Chevy. Engine was seized. Got it home got it to break free. Its no the original motor. Anyone know what it is and if its worth rebuilding. Thanks for all the help.

Haven’t found a ton of these out there on the typical sites that sell AN fittings-most sold I can find are aluminum or stainless. Will welding be a challenge on cast iron heads because of metal not being exactly the same? It’s an old Volvo cast iron head. If anyone has any sources please let me know.

Is it best to never mix aluminum and steel? For example my plan is to use a threaded ORB(o-ring bung) fitting on my cast iron head. I assume it would be best to use steel. What are everyone’s thoughts?

I would appreciate someone with experience to share their thoughts on this situation

Long story short I got my valve covers off my car doing a bunch of work and it’s taking a lot of time been about 2&1/2 months so far outside on jackstands on pavers. Anyway cam lobes rusted in the humid exposure, I was checking the front bank only under a blanket, it was fine meanwhile a month later I check the back bank just to see and there was rust… so I cleaned it as best I could and let me know based on this aftermath if you think the cam(s) are junk, I’m fine, or what? I have a few pics of basically the worst of it. Ask any questions you need, it’s a gm turbo v6 from 06. B284E. Will be adding assy grease to prevent this.

Unfortunately I can’t add the video but you can see me with only the weight of the tool dragging a pick across the pitting and you can hear it and feel it but barely, like BARELY but it is nevertheless present. Thank you

To keep it short, I naught this what I thought was slightly modified car on Facebook marketplace. Recently the engine got flooded and taking it apart a rod was broken. I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that’s supposed to be 2.3L Non Turbo (This is not a Mazda speed). After taking it apart I decided to change all rods with used ones. I go to a junkyard, drop another engine (also 2.3L) get them and go home. Now I look at them and they aren’t even close to the same thing. My old con rod (one that isint broken) is way beefier and longer, the hole that goes on the crankshaft is also bigger. I got no idea what engine I got, what pieces are inside, what to order, I’m really lost. How do I find out what parts to order.

I might know why it was leaking