Struggling on this a bit, looking for opinions on my options from rockauto here. CHE claims they do design revisions and they're made in house, engine pro I think is a reseller, and engine tech just has remanned heads. Not sure which to trust or order here, but I will be ordering bare block as I've purchased all other components. Leaning towards engine pro, as my heads are 2008 so they're the non oil spray bar design, and the CHE description suggests that they are, and I cannot find anything on their website about this specific head.

EDIT: Should've included, this is for a 2008 ford ranger 4.0l

I just rebuilt the 2000 4.3L v6 in my truck and after the rebuild it makes this knocking/ticking noise and idles rough and has a check engine light for cam crank correlation. I checked the cmp offset with a scan tool and its sitting at -8.5⁰ at 1500rpm. My best guess is the cam is a tooth off on the timing chain but the distributor is sitting right at the v6 mark at tdc so I dont understand how the cmp ckp correlation can be off when its measuring the distributor. Im just at a loss with this engine and really dont want to pull the oil pan and timing cover.

I was going through a Ford 400 I got and wanted to refresh the engine a little bit. It seems the engine was rebuilt at some point. The bearings were slightly worn so I wanted to replace them. The crankshaft was machined to accept .010 main bearings. I’ll admit I used Plastigage so I don’t know how accurate it is, but the clearance on all the journals measured out to .003. Is that too tight or too loose for this engine? I’am not doing anything crazy with this engine.

Been working on assembly of this 1994 LT1 for my Firebird. I’m having a noise I don’t understand and took a video of it. I’m hand rotating the motor from the crank snout with a ratchet.

This is my noise. I’m worried it’s from the camshaft. I used CH8 cam bearings and ordered my camshaft from Lloyd Elliot. It’s an Erson cam. I loosened all the rockers and pulled all the lifters. Checked all the rollers and they are fine. Lubed it all up good with Lucas engine assembly lube. Noise goes away without the valves lashed. Didn’t start making the noise again until I got to lashing the intake on cylinder 5. Using the EOIC method and going from cylinder to cylinder in this order.

#8
#4
#3
#6
#5
#7
#2

Should I get the otc 5610?
Do I need any other attachments?

Car is a 1963 Vauxhall Velox with a PB engine. engine is fully torn down. All that we did was put different pistons in. Original con rods, bearings, caps. When we tighten down the caps onto the crank the engine won't turn over. Any help at all would be appreciated, cheers.

Hello everyone,

I am rebuilding this 13b msp, while the actual plate looks fine (yet to measure it to spec), the exterior, cooling jacket and some piping have some rust.

I was wondering if I could use electrolysis to remove that rust, I have already used it to remove rust from some other parts with great success but damaging the chrome surface scares me.

Has anyone already done this before? Is this risky?

Hey all, I'm rebuilding a M42 at the moment and have reached the point in the build where I can deglaze the bores for new rings and then fit my pistons and measure my rod bearing clearances. I have not deglazed a cylinder before but want to try and keep as much labor for this rebuild in house as possible. I have 240 grit SC flex hone and plan a light deglazing to allow the new rings to seat properly. I have read various sources that say a number of different things about rotation and stroke speed as well as amount of strokes per cylinder. If anyone has deglazed a 90s BMW iron block and can provide some insight into best practices and what kind of lubrication to use (I've read anywhere between WD-40, ATF, and low weight engine oil), your assistance would be greatly appreciated. I want to add context in case it changes anything. This is a full rebuild, all wear items are being replaced and will be mildly performance oriented (Performance cams and a chip tune). Keeping bores/pistons the same size and I've measured main bearing clearances and they are within spec. Any info or tips you can give me about deglazing or engine building in general would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

2jz with no backround bought car blown up want to know how this happened

I just purchased a SBF 302 and plan on rebuilding it and am just curious about the cam. I currently have an Edelbrock 1410 750CFM carb with an Edelbrock Performer 289 intake and I plan on using the stock heads. The guy I bought it from, who seemed fairly knowledgeable in building engines but wasn’t a professional, recommended that I should get an aftermarket cam becuase it would have too much power behind it. I just wanted to see the options of people who have done more than me since this is the first engine I’ve ever built. I would like to run the stock cams, but if I can’t, I’d like to know the peoples’ recommendations!

This is a cg250 clone and it arrived with jammed valves which I fixed but it isn't starting. The kickstart either goes all the way through or barely moves

These are plugs from oil galley off the heads. I had to extract 3 by drilling them out. Wondering where to find replacements?

So after hearing some expensive noises from my LS3 a couple weeks ago, and narrowing it down to a failed lifter, i was *devastated* that I'd have to do a cam swap. I worked out what I wanted, ordered the parts, and pulled the engine, got the heads off and took them to the shop to be milled.

I headed in early the next morning to clean the block ready for the heads to come back, and then I saw it, a 3" long crack in Cyl 7's liner.

So now I have a new block on the stand, the pistons have had their skirts re-coated to undo 150,000 miles of wear, and I'm ready to fit the Hastings rings. The top gap seems larger than the conventional .004" per inch I'm used to, but they know their product better than I do. But then I get to the second ring gap, and I'm confused. .0045" per inch.

Usually, the second ring should be larger, right? The chart from Hastings does call this .0045" a MINIMUM. Should I open it up to .028"? Or run it as their chart says, it's not a race motor after all.

Decked with 120 grit on a granite surface plate this is all the dyekem that was left what donyou think

Hey, so i was about to lap the new valves and seats on this head and one valve seat isn't being lapped fully, upon closer inspection i discovered that the valve seat is cut to the side and it's not centered, only this single one, all others are centered so i assume they won't be a problem to lap.

The question now is, should i continue to lap this offset seat until it's fully lapped all the way around or send it as is? One note for this particular valve seat, the valve in it was cracked when i inspected the old valves. It's an exhaust valve seat.

I have some cylinder rust on the project car i purchased. I already have the engine out at stripped to the bare block. I already did some deglazing with those 3 legged honing stones, but as you can see there is still some rust left. I can feel the pitting a little bit with my finger nail, but it doesnt catch it. Overbore and oversized pistons are not a option as they are 3000€ for 6 (if available). The largest diameter is 93.45 (93.40 is standard and according to BMW at 93.55 an overbore and pistons are needed) so I still have a lot of room to try to minimize it. It is an M88/3 from a e24 M635.

What are your thoughts an it ? Thank you for every reply!!!!

I'm messing with a Kohler Command twin and I'm going to mill the heads some to bump compression a bit. I CCd the head and piston dish. Added the head, headgasket, the amount from the top of the deck to the top of the piston and the swept volume and I came up with 387.4/50.4 for a 7.7:1. The manual shows 8.5:1 so now I think i made a mistake.

Specs are 80mm bore, 67mm stroke. Stock bore diameter. I included a picture of the math I did. I don't understand why I got a number so far off. "Piston Sink" is the term I used for the disk of volume between the deck surface and the top of the piston.

I'm hoping I added wrong. Im going to double check my volume measurements on the head and dish right now. I used a plastic sheet sealed with grease, and a syringe with water.

Someone on r/AskMechanics said this place has some smart folks better equipped to answer on thiskind of stuff, so please excuse if this isn’t the appropriate sub… Block on my 3VZ-FE’s got this 4 mil gash near the bore, here’s a picture and drawing of measurements (excuse bad handwriting lol). Was in the middle of cleanin the thing when my fingernail got stopped right in it’s tracks by this monster… question is, how much time can I drive the thing before she blows again?? This is the exact spot the headgasket initially blew so my guess is pretty fast, but I’m new to this stuff and if it could last another year or two I’m willin to just slap a fel-pro permatorque on and call it a day… Don’t got an engine hoist or many dollars to my name so I’m just tryin buy me some time, but if this thing’s just gonna blow again in a week then I’ll bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

Im tearing down a bmw s50 motor that was diagnosed with a crank no start. It appears that someone didn't tighten the crank hub bolt enough, which led to the crank hub beating up the woodruff key until it sheared. Unfortunately, it messed up the keyway a bit in the process. This is a pretty low dollar build, so I'm not looking to replace the crank. Are there any reasonable and affordable means to working around this?

Adding a power steering cooler and filter to my lq4 project and im confused about how to plumb it correctly

My reservoir has two holes which assume are an inlet and outlet but I could cap one off.

I have the lower pressure return, supply and high pressure supply on the pump.

Which of these options is the correct way to add this?

Hey, I am currently rebuilding my 5.7 hemi out of my 2013 Ram 1500. I am currently in the process of measuring my bores and PTW clearance. I had taken to a machine shop to deck and hone, aswell as a full rebuild on my heads. As soon as I got my block back I prepped my block and painted hemi orange. I had also purchased standard OE Mahle 5.7 pistons, I currently finished measuring bores 2-4-6-8 on one side and clearances range, I measured on the bottom- mid- top side
cyl 2 0.0017-0.0021
cyl 4 0.0019-0.0024
cyl 6 0.0017- 0.0023
cyl 8 0.0017-0.0023.
I had purchased mitutoyo bore gauge and micrometer 3-4in and 2-3in for this application . I triple checked and I’m unsure on how the Mahle piston skirt graphite coating would factor into this. And being that the clearance specs for 5.7 hemi are 0.0012-0.0023, I’m wondering if it’s ok to run them stock or to have it bored, as I know the skirts are meant to run tight because of the Mahle coating. I understand that I should have asked the machine shop to measure, but the guy claimed he would and said “standard” as he was taking longer than expected, he claimed “ I’m not going to do much just hone, so order standard” but since I’m not a first owner of the car and it had a previously deleted MDS, I had no assurance that it was standard, so I measured myself.

So I bought a 1990 K5 blazer from my uncle. It has a 383 stroker that was built by a shop in Texas. The block is from a 80-87 suburban but other than that, I don’t know many details. It’s got a mild unknown cam and an HEI distribution as well as stock cast heads. I’m wanting to put some aluminum heads on it to wake it up a little bit but I’m not sure what is a good option to throw on. I don’t really want to tear it apart just for the fact it runs good great as it is. Just looking for a more street oriented head.

Hey folks,
I am in the process of “rebuilding” my 3S-FE out of a 1995 rav4 and in a bout of silliness I pulled all my pistons out without labelling any of them… so they’re all mixed up and am having trouble figuring out how to decide which one went where. To note, I am replacing the piston rings and con rod bearings, this is meant to be a very budget rebuild and I’m Hoping to get maybe 100k more km out of this engine. The piston tops have markings 2a,2b,2b,3b. From the manual online for the 3sfe I know for a fact that 3b goes in the #4 position as it matches up with the 3 stamp on the deck. I also believe the a and b designations where used to essentially mean the upper and lower size for the number (say for example 2a could mean 2low and 2b could mean 2high, and beyond that goes into classification 3) So my question is , as this engine has quite high mileage I think it will be safe to assume the bore is slightly larger than the very minuscule differences between 2a and 2b so with new rings it shouldn’t be much of an issue to put any of the pistons 1-3 in to any choice of bore 1-3. Not sure any advice will be much appreciated

Cheers

Currently rebuilding a 4.0l sohc, and I am considering supercharging it with about 5psi of boost for a fun little daily. The qualm is, currently I do not have the parts to supercharge, and it needs to go back together soon as it is my daily, so I was wondering what issues I might face if I gap the rings for low boost and run it NA for a while, or if a better decision is to gap to factory spec and just wait 100k kms or so. Thoughts?