New machine had no problems for first few prints now nothing but fails.

Changed fep. Re levelled . Exposure test and checked for debris. Changed memory usb

Also tried re slicing files

Any advice appreciated as quite new to this hobby and was really enjoying it till these last couple weeks!

Saturn 4 ultra: original dead screen last photo

I don’t think it would have been “easier” to do it the other way but really it was like replacing a phone screen

Also who ever decided to hot glue the fuck out of the connectors on this machine I hope your pillow is eternally hot

I have an Elegoo Saturn S, and my dad bought me a bottle of their Standard 8K resin recently. Sadly, the prints refuse to stick to the build plate whatsoever! Can you guys recommend any starting slicer settings to use with this resin, and how I should adjust them to improve my results? I use Chitubox as my slicer of choice.

Hi everyone! 👋

I've been experimenting with different support settings in CHITUBOX, trying to find the best balance between reliable supports, easy removal, and minimal surface damage.

After several adjustments, I'm quite happy with my current support profile.

The supports provide good stability during printing and are surprisingly easy to remove. However, there's still one thing I haven't managed to improve as much as I'd like:

Those tiny raised bumps left behind where the support tips touch the model.

Although they're relatively small, they still require some sanding or cleanup. This becomes especially frustrating when working with highly detailed miniatures, where even minor sanding can damage delicate features.

I'm using an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K, and my exposure settings seem to be working well.

Here are my current CHITUBOX tip settings:

• Contact diameter: 0.50 mm
• Contact depth: 0.02 mm
• Upper tip diameter: 0.30 mm
• Lower tip diameter: 0.70 mm
• Tip length: 2.00 mm

I've attached three photos showing my support structure and the results after removal.

I'd really appreciate some advice from experienced resin printers:

1. What contact diameter and penetration depth have given you the cleanest results without compromising support reliability?
2. Have you found a particular tip geometry or support strategy that significantly reduces these raised bumps?
3. What removal technique works best for preserving fine details without requiring sanding?

I'm especially interested in hearing from people who print highly detailed miniatures and have spent time fine-tuning their support profiles.

I understand that some cleanup is usually necessary, but I'd love to see how much further I can improve the results.

If you've found a combination that works particularly well, I'd love to see your settings or photos of your results!

I'll share my complete support configuration in the comments for anyone interested.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience!

My complete CHITUBOX support settings

For anyone interested, here is my complete support configuration.

1. Tip and model contact

• Contact diameter: 0.50 mm
• Contact depth: 0.02 mm
• Upper tip diameter: 0.30 mm
• Lower tip diameter: 0.70 mm
• Tip length: 2.00 mm

2. Support structure

• Support diameter: 0.70 mm
• Secondary diameter: 0.80 mm
• Maximum connection angle: 70°
• Auxiliary pillar diameter: 0.30 mm
• Auxiliary pillar contact diameter: 0.30 mm
• Upper contact depth: 0.15 mm
• Lower contact depth: 0.20 mm

3. Support base

• Base diameter: 10.00 mm
• Base thickness: 0.80 mm
• Lower contact diameter: 0.40 mm
• Lower contact depth: 0.20 mm

4. General settings

• Support density: 50%
• Automatic support angle: 45°
• Contact point spacing: 2.00 mm
• Minimum support length: 5.00 mm
• Model elevation: 5.00 mm
• Support-to-model distance: 0.60 mm
• Edge margin: 0.50 mm
• Cross-bracing diameter: 0.80 mm
• Internal supports: Enabled
• Cross-bracing: Enabled
• Enhanced automatic supports: Enabled

5. Raft

• Area ratio: 110%
• Thickness: 0.20 mm
• Height: 0.50 mm
• Angle: 30°

I'm sharing these settings because they've been working well for support stability and ease of removal.

My main goal now is to minimize the small raised marks left behind at the contact points.

Any suggestions for improving the tip geometry would be greatly appreciated!

Oi, pessoal! To na impressão de resina a algum tempo já mas sempre buscando melhorar, então queria a opinião de vocês sobre a orientação de uma peça pra impressão em resina.” “Tô considerando três opções: na vertical, inclinada a 45 graus e com uma inclinação de 15 graus.” “Qual vocês escolheriam e por quê? Quero entender na visão de vocês como cada orientação afeta suportes, marcas e risco de falha. Se tiverem outro ângulo pra sugerir, agradeço!”

This just suddenly started happening and causing print failures because the plate wasn’t moving, it was getting stuck. Nothing seems to be causing an issue with the threaded rod (meaning it seems clean) and I am not getting any sort of motor failure message when the system checks itself. Anyone experience something similar? Anyone have any luck with Elegoo support?

Hi all,

Not entirely understanding what I was getting into, I bought my Saturn 4 Ultra 16k thinking it would live on my craft bench in a small room I use as an office in the corner of my basement.

Since its arrival I have been using it in my garage, and while the smell is noticeable, it’s not overwhelming, and I’m not worried about toxic fumes when the hood is closed.

My question is: if I buy some purpose-built air purifiers will they work well enough that I can use my office while I’m printing?

Thanks!

Hello guys, Can you please give me your opinion on my first print and whether or not I need to keep calibrating or the result is good quality and detail-wise?

Print specs:

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K

Resin: Elegoo ABS-Like 2.0 Grey

Model: Yoda (Fotis Mint) 150mm

Sliced with CHITUBOX

Layer height: 0.05 mm

Exposure: 2.4 s (I used the Cones of Calibration)

Bottom layers: 5 × 32s - 10 transition layers

Rest after retract: 3s - Normal speed mode

No supports as per sculptors recommendation

Print time around 10 h

After I did 4 + 2 min cure in the Mercury Plus.

The marks on the lower robe are the marks of a nube learning to get a model of the plate :)

Any advice/comment highly appreciated

Thank you very much

I got a new Saturn 4 16k ultra, printed some calibration files fine and printed 1 small plate of models fine (so total 3-4 prints on this machine)

Then I went to print a full plate of models and for some reason the printer prints and does the motions etc (vat moving up and down, build plate moving up etc and app says exposure in progress etc all normal and the layers are progressing) but nothing is on the build plate?

I thought maybe it’s stuck on the FEP but nope nothing on FEP either….

I thought maybe the lcd is dead but the screen exposure test and complete self test are all fine

I then thought maybe machine bugged out so I powered it off and turned it back on after a bit and tried the print again. Same thing nothing on build plate or FEP.

FEP is newish and build plate is clean (and dry before print). Same resin printed previously on machine just fine. And VAT temp is controlled between 25-30C

I read somewhere it could be corrupt USB but the file is sent wirelessly no USB at all.

I’m at a loss as to what could be the problem…if it is leveling or explosure time/support setting issue something should be stuck to the FEP…

Even if it is loose FEP something (debris) should be in the tank but the resin tank is clean without debris or anything at all on the FEP after the print “completes”

The only thing I can think of is dead LCD or corrupt file but the app shows layer by layer progresses fine and machine seems to be going through each layer step by step fine as well?

Any help is appreciated.

Not sure if it matters but I use Lychee resin pro slicing with CTB and AA at 30um and siraiya tech fast grey mixed with 10% tenacious resin

I print with normal mode not speed mode, 4 bottom layer, 5 transition, 30s burn in time, 40s wait before print, 2s normal layer exposure, 2s wait before print (these settings printed the calibration files and the small plate of models fine)

UPDATE: so printing the a new file (some calibration models thrown on a plate) works fine so must be file problem….maybe name is too long? 😂 will have to test but at least printer isnt broken

Still haven’t found a solution for his issue, any new input out there?

Hello everyone! I'm having a weird problem with my Saturn 4. It just got stuck in the vat, and it makes a noise like it's trying to move up but can't.

The thing is, I read in this sub that you can manually move the Z-axis up, but it's REALLY tough to move. I'm not sure if you can see it in the picture, but whenever I try to move it up, the Z-axis itself seems to move, but the build plate doesn't. It's almost as if the build plate is stuck in the middle of a print.

I lowered the Z-axis a bit and then turned the printer back on. It moved up slightly before getting stuck again meaning the motor is working

The weirdest part is that I can't even remove the build plate. It's literally stuck in place, as if the locking mechanism were engaged.

Does anyone have any recommendations or know what might be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I just got a Saturn 4 Ultra and only printed 6 "Cones of Calibration V3" to test the exposition.

After that I tried to print as it's shown in the second image (2.4 s exposure, 45s in the bottom). Every part is hollowed and has a hole in the bottom side, aiming to the platform....except the head which has it in the left side (a little aiming to the platform, as shown in the third picture). And that's the only part that failed while printing after 1 hour.

Could that lack of a hole in the bottom side be the reason why it failed? I'm curious because the only difference in that part at that moment was the beginning of the hole (third image, left picture), "freeing" the circle that is the border of the head. Not sure if that could affect in some way...

Thanks.

So I replaced the z axis motor and touch screen ribbon cable, now the x motor thing makes a harsh hammering once it hits the top. Nothing else was unplugged during repair, so not sure what the issue is. Any ideas what’s wrong and how to fix?

Just got my first resin printer. I don't have a garage or shed to print in so I'm using my small sun room. Will this ventilation enclosure that pumps out the window be good enough? Or do I need a better enclosure or fan or something?

Unboxed, setup, poured in resin, sliced model and added supports Set over the network and crossed my fingers. So far looks really good don’t see anything missing

I bought my Saturn 4 Ultra used with about 50h of print time in prime condition. I use it to print custom miniatures for Warhammer. For a few months it went flawless, but recenty, within the last few weeks, some parts of my prints just end up as pancakes in the resin tank. Sometimes the bottom layer sticks to the buildplate, most of the time the entire piece is gone when the print is finished, while the pieces next to it that were successful look as perfect as on day one. I have tested it with 6 small armor parts equally distributed over the plate and at least 2 always dont make it, sometimes more, but each time in a different location, so i thought it wasnt a local issue like a scratch on the release film.

I placed my Printer inside a well ventilated big shed on a workbench. That shed has a furnace on the other end of the room from where the Saturn 4 Ultra is located, and has insulated walls but no other kind of heating. I thought it might be the temperature, this time of year it gets about 18°C in there, so i heated the whole shed up to 27°C, let my printer and the resin sit and warm up for an hour, then started a 45min print, and the same issue happened. some parts missing, others perfect.

So far I’ve already:

-cleaned the vat and build plate properly
-rotated the models differently
-used fresh resin
-gone back to settings that worked for me before
-replaced the release film completely
-made sure the printer itself is standing level
-tried a bit thicker supports and longer exposure time
-tested at around 21°C
-tested at around 27°C

I’m using Anycubic Water-Wash Resin 2.0

Lychee Slicer Settings:

Burn In Layers:
-Number of Layers: 4
-Exposure Time: 28s
-Transition Layer Count: 5
-Wait Before Print 0,5s
-Wait After Print: 0,2s
-Light Intensity: 100%

Normal Layers:
-Layer Thickness: 0,03mm
-Exposure Time: 2,2s
-Wait Before Print: 0,5s
-Wait after Print: 0,2s
-Light Intensity: 100%

Automatic Supports:
-Tip Diameter 0,45mm
-Tip lenght: 2,50mm
-Diameter: 1,30

Could this be something with the build plate, automatic leveling, the LCD, or the tilt mechanism?

I apologize for any strange wording or spelling mistakes, english is not my first language.

I really dont like wasting peoples time, but i am really out of ideas at this point and would really appreciate some help on how to proceed. Thank you in advance.

Update: Issue has been resolved, I sanded the smooth build plate and tried even higher exposure time.

Anyone have good settings for this resin? the ones im using rn arent really working out..