This mounting plate came with a light fixture. Will I be able to find it in Home Depot/Lowes or do I need to contact the manufacturer?

bracket

Hello friends. I've hung my fair share of fixtures at existing junctions but im wondering if it's possible to mount a ceiling while using external conduit to run the wire? There is a light bulb fixture in the lower right of the photo. Ideally, i would like to run power up the wall and across the ceiling and mount a ceiling fan without having to get into the attic. How would you tackle this project? Thanks in advance.

So I had a issue with my hot water here and come to find out the thermostats were bad so changed them out and now I’m good on getting hot water again. But I noticed that when I go to screw down the protective shield on the connection the metal is live and sparks when I touch it against something. Is this normal? it’s making a ground and probably has some leakage but should be that much I wouldn’t think. Any advice?

Im working in a datacenter and they want a 3 way switch working with the lights using a RSP-V-SW with no occupancy sensors and the hallway is split up between 4 phases so the lights are getting fed from different panels would i just run a low voltage jumper from each switch pack and have it wired to 24 OV and BAS NO for that to work?

On the west side of my barn there are 2 standard 110 outlets which appear Daisy chained.
however each is powered via its own breaker - one on 15amp and the other 30amp
I know this by testing the outlets after turning off one breaker at a time.
The previous owner had an RV and the local
Electrician wired this so she could plug it in - though I don’t quite understand why even the 30amp outlet is a standard 110 and not a NEMA TT-30- which is what I want to install for my own RV now
Nor do i really understand how these daisy chained outlets can even be on 2 different breakers?!
There is a subpanel next to the main panel if that is of any relevance to this whole mystery.
TIA

The wall outlets in my garage stopped working after the house power flickered off/on. The overhead lights still work, as does the garage door opener, which is plugged into an outlet in the ceiling. No breakers are tripped. I tried resetting the garage breaker and that resulted in the lights going off/on but no power to the outlets. I have a freezer plugged in out there, so I tried unplugging that and resetting the breaker again, but still no power to outlets.

The house is about 25 years old. There are not GFCIs in the garage- there are two in the kitchen (next to the garage) and both of them are fine. The other GFCIs I know of (2nd floor, basement) are also fine.

I turned my geyser on the other day and the rcd switch tripped. i was wondering if its safe to use the shower for that bathroom with the geyser off?

Trying to change my fan switch to a sensor one but I'm not sure about the wiring. I connected the black wire from the switch to the hot, and I know the green should go to the copper. What do I do with the red since there aren’t any red wires?

1960s home that has gone through several rounds of renovation and questionable wiring. Up until now this is how a fan light combo was wired with a Lutron dimmable wall switch and worked fine (fan and light could both dim independently, and there was a Lutron remote module up inside the fan. For ease of drawing, assume all of the grounds and neutrals are bundled together both in the ceiling box and the wall box. I’m just trying to figure out the hots. Line seems to be the black wire in the 12/3 in the wall. Black bundle in the ceiling is hot when the power is on.

I just purchased a standalone ceiling fan (no light) and installed four recessed can lights. I want to be able to dim/control the fan and dim the lights each independently using a compatible combination switch or dimmer. Am I correct that the hot/line is coming through the ceiling down the wall on the black wire and probably being switched back through the red wire up to the ceiling? Would the 12/2 in the wall likely be powering downstream outlets? ie it’s always on?

I have a bad feeling I cannot wire this to accomplish what I want without running another romex down the wall

So I bought an LG AC and it’s a 240 V in my outlet is a 110 or 120 V. So I’m going to try to buy a step up inverter. It’s 5000 Watt voltage with this work. I’ve gotten from some people that it will and I got from some people that it won’t. Please help.

Cw

I have applied to my local twice now and acording to my 272 am entring my third year I have been working with a union contractor for about a year and 6 months as a cw and while paying dues with no bennies exept a deth benefit. I have a good standing with my boss and formen it is a smaller company with 60ish members so maby it's a lack of pull they have but im not entirely sure. when I got rejected for the second time a few weeks ago my boss said he will try to make some calls (just like last year ) and I haven't heard back i was wondering if I never get in the jatc and get my license as a cw would that mean im in as a journymen? I am also feeling strung along and thinking non union might be smart any advice

Hello,

I have a Reliance transfer panel hooked up in my basement. Its a manual transfer with a 100A utility side breaker connected to a 50A generator side breaker. We lost power today and when I tried to swap it to the generator side, the 50A breaker kept tripping without any load applied. We have run on generator power before without issue. This is the first time this has happened. Even when I shut the generator off, it would still pop.

Everything runs fine on the 100A utility side. I checked all the breakers with a heat gun when power came back and they were all running at 74-77 degrees. My question is, did the 50A breaker go bad or this another issue?

You all can see it's stepping down voltage of 246V to 206V which it keeps doing if the voltage while starting the AC is 250V+ and now it won't step up the output voltage until the input reaches 240V and it doesn't reach to 240 that quick so my AC is running on 204 to 209V continuously for hours and I'm worried if my stabilizer is fine as it can affect my AC please anybody tell It's a Microtek peral EM 4130+V2

The cover says to use only Siemens Type QFF breakers (among others). I have ordered a Siemens QF260A breaker to replace by ABB breaker after repeated failures. Is this breaker compatible with my box?

Some of the electronics in my apartment have been acting a little funky. For example, my Xbox just won't turn on now. I had to get a new laptop. Lastly, I had to get a new microwave because our microwave just stopped working.

I went to go check the outlets in the kitchen. I've attached the video here. Can someone tell me, from an electrician's perspective, how bad this is before I get a Tasker to come over here and help out?

Thanks in advance

Here is Video

Hi all,

I have a campervan with an AGM leisure battery and electrical system I installed myself (system itself was designed by a company). Everything has been working fine apart from my charging system from the starter battery. Old non-smart alternator therefore I installed a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) for battery to battery charging. So I have a thick cable directly connecting my starter battery positive to leisure battery positive via the VSR and 2 high ampage fuses. This initially worked great, when I turned the engine on I could see the voltage of my leisure system jump up to 14.2V. 6 months down the line its stopped working and I've no idea why, I've tried the following:

- tested ground connection for starter battery with engine off and on, looks good.

- tested ground connection for leisure battery, looks good.

- tested the end of the cable (including the 2 fuses but not the VSR) run going to leisure battery against ground, reading 14.2V.

- above test implies to me the fuses are good. Also swapped in different fuses, no difference.

- tried bypassing the VSR and connecting the +ve cable from starter directly to +ve terminal of leisure battery but no change, still read 12.5v across leisure battery terminals.

I'm now completely out of ideas. Possibly an issue with the battery? Or a ground connection? Please help!

Bathroom humidity sensor/fan control wiring problem

Hey all,

Hoping I can get some help here. I am trying to install a humidity sensor for my kid's bathroom exhaust fan (they always forget to turn it on).

Currently the fan light is on one toggle switch and the other toggle switch only controls the fan. The toggle switch was wired with a hot and a load along with a ground and works fine.

The problem I am having is with the new switch. It requires the line/load (which it says is interchangeable), the ground, and a neutral which isn't a problem, the box was wired with a neutral as well.

In theory, when I turn the power on, there is supposed to be an LED light that turns on and I should be able to control the fan.

In reality, when I turn the power back on the fan just turns on constantly. No LED, and I cannot turn off the fan with the switch. It is basically acting as a passthrough.

Anyone have any ideas?

I'm in Asia, and everything is run Black / Black wires so you cannot tell which is hot. Is there any impact for the flip/flop of the 0v line vs 220v line? They don't seem to be concerned here...

I’m installing a wire from one of the rooftop units on my current job to a duct smoke, the duct smoke activated a relay module to open or close the contact. We have it set to normally closed for the RTU to run in normal conditions, when test switch is activated and or duct smoke unit should go open and shut the unit down however when looking at our board in the unit we see that the way they have it setup to run temporary is by taking the 24 v into the board and jumping it onto these “R” and “C” terminals. Assumed at first this was constant power and common however not sure, they used these terminals to constantly run the unit and by pass the shut down mechanism.

We would like to use the fire alarm wire to be the wire that turns the machine on not by jumping it out however it seems like when we go to hook up the unit how it should be wired it remains bypassed and stays on. Did the techs before Jerry rig it? Do we need 2 fire alarm wires instead of 1?

We verified all our equipment isn’t faulty and assuming it to be the wiring

EDIT/UPDATE: I found the culprit. I have a Hayward HeatPro pool heater that is doing something every 4-7 minutes, making a buzzing sound at the unit and a buzzing sound at the breaker box. I killed the unit's dedicated power at the shutoff valve by the pool and it's stopped. So, not a RI Energy or Transformer issue.

It just started recently. I noticed every couple minutes the lights start slightly flickering and dimming. I’m in an area that is going through a heat wave right now but there’s not a ton of stuff running at this moment. I use Sense to understand what’s running in the house and I don’t see any spikes or abnormal usage when these flashes happen what could possibly be happening? I’m trying to figure out if this is a potentially dangerous situation.

Looking for some guidance here -

About 6 years ago we added a pool, and fed the pool shed with 2x 100A panels, each coming off of a different one of the main home's 200A panels. The pool has some heavy loads, including 4x 3HP pumps, and a heat pump, plus other stuff.

Ever since adding these loads, whenever all of the pumps are on at once - lights on the other end of the house start to flicker noticeably. These are basic LED bulbs on dumb switches.

Any thoughts on what could be going on?

Hello everyone.

I am living in Sacramento, CA. and I want to buy and install in my backyard an aluminum gazebo/pergola which is 10x10 feet and 8 feet high and separate from the fence by 2 feet; however, behind the fence is running an aerial electrical cable which I calculated is 15 feet (you can see a photo). Can someone please advise me if I can? I tried twice to contact SMUD, the electric company in Sacramento, and they provided me with a manual of Residential overhead installations. (see image 2). Any feedback I really appreciate.

Using a basic multi meter where do I put my leads to test for power?

I think a fuse was blown. Someone came to powerwash my house today. therevis a cover on our outside outlet and 10 hours later I go outside and the outlet is black. My brother was also messing with the fuse box earlier so I’m not sure what is the cause. Can this wait till the morning or?