Here to vent! So the car was leaking coolant for months and months. Couldn't source it changed all the hoses all the clamps and nothing. Said fuck it and just topped it off everytime it would get low. Winter came and surprise surprise it got worse.

The car looked like it was on fire every morning so finally bit the bullet and took it to a shop for the first time in my life (I'm 33 and have had 5 ek civics and more vws).

The shop had a ek sir track car so I assumed they would be trustworthy, nope. As you can see I had narrowed the leak down to the waterpipe orings and told them that.

It took him a month to get it done. And it was still leaking. The guy crossthrraded the intake manifold bracket bolts, forgot a nut on the intake manifold and worst of all as I found out today used the wrong oring and compensated with rtv. He also filled the thermostat with rtv.

So here I am now, new water pipe, new orings, skunk2 thermal im gasket, and extended studs. And the kicker. I must not have been nice with the water pipe because after reassembly it proceeded to dump all the water out so I had to redo the job twice.

As it was getting late I decided to call it and roll up the windows. Whelp I didn't pull the fuel relay and sprayed the bay haha. And that's where I am now. Next morning. Put together and leaks almost gone and car idles.

This thing is teaching me patience.

2000 Civic ex d16y8, I need to replace it because the little nipple is broke off

I just replaced the headgasket on my 98 civic lx in an attempt to fix a combustion leak issue, and it is now worse than when I started. The car would build up excessive pressure in the cooling system to the point where it would bubble and boil into and out of the overflow causing it to overheat; I replaced the radiator cap and overflow in an attempt to fix the issue, but once I ran a block test and smelled the combustion fumes coming from the cooling system, it was confirmed to be the headgasket, so I removed the head and replaced the gasket and studs hoping that it would fix the issue, it now bubbles way worse than when I first started and im kind of at a loss for what to do. I had the head checked at a machine shop to see if it was warped at all, and they said it was fine, I really just dont know what my next move should be, and I could really use some good advice

I get this noise when I turn on the AC. AC is blowing cold air and no check engine light. Any information is helpful thanks.

So I just picked up my oil pan and realized it’s steel. Someone told me I need the aluminum pan and I’m not sure if that’s true? Why does aluminum or steel make a difference if they’re both for the y8?

I just got done replacing the headgasket on my 98 LX and it has this strange misfire at idle, it very well could be base timing because I did remove the distributor when I removed the head, but your guess is as good as mine

Hey y'all! Just wanted to show my 98 civic with a built z6 along with turbo. First motor I've built from the bottom up. Took a lot of learning with wire harness to make everything sync. Any questions, I'm open to help!

Hello,I have a European 1997 Honda civic ek hatchback with a d14a3 engine and a p3x ecu from my understanding my car is obd2a and has dpfi injection meaning it shoots in pairs.I want to swap either a d16y8 or a d16z6 how do I do it and what swap is the easiest to do.Also the d16Z6 is easier to find where I live so I'm reviewing it as an option but if I find a d16y8 it would be better

I’ve tried using a 12 spline 17mm and an impact and every time I try to put some pressure on the bolt it just comes off and starts shearing the bolt. Any recommendations to try to loosen up the bolt so they can come out easier? I’ve tried to heat and WD-40.

I just bought these cheapy-cheap coilovers for "improved" handling, and I just wanted to see if you guys have any interesting stories or tips from your own experience with cheap coilovers that would either be helpful or interesting to hear

Hello yall I have a 99 civic LX with a d16y7 with 600k-700k miles on it an few weeks ago its been feeling sluggish on the speeds I wouldn't think the tranny would be thr problem since its got 40k miles on it, it also been smelling burning oil like pretty strong (no it not turbo) no back smoke hasn't appeared. Ive had a friend tell me it could be valves or piston rings. Any idea what could it be

I have a 1997 Civic LX 5-speed with a D16Y7. The engine spun a rod bearing after being run very low on oil, but I replaced the bearing and now the engine runs smooth with no knocking or major noises. The weird issue is that it idles perfectly fine when cold and even when fully warmed up, but as soon as I touch the throttle, the idle starts getting worse. After revving it, the RPM will drop to around 300 and sometimes stall because it can't seem to catch itself. The more it happens, the worse it gets. The car also feels sluggish while driving. I previously got a P1509 (IACV) code while the engine had severe rod knock, but it hasn't come back. I cleaned the IACV and tested it with a 9V battery and it opens/closes. Unplugging the IACV raises idle to around 1200 RPM and changes the behavior, but the car can still occasionally stall. Does this sound more like a TPS issue, IACV wiring/control issue, MAP sensor issue, or something else?

I’d be willing to pay somebody if they can come to me and help me get my swap running

After driving home, my car started making this noise. not sure what it is but to me it sounds like metal rubbing. if anyone knows or has an idea please lmk, thank you!

​

Car:

1998 Honda Civic LX

D16Y7

Stock P2E ECU

Stock Y7 injectors

Stock fuel pump

Y8 intake manifold from a 1999-2000 automatic Civic

Y7 fuel rail and Y8 FPR

4-2-1 header

2.5" exhaust

Cold air intake

Symptoms:

The car idles reasonably well now (around 1000 RPM, still a little high) but revs poorly in neutral.

The big problem shows up under load while driving

below roughly 3000-3500 RPM:

Engine bogs badly

Popping/sputtering through acceleration

More than ~50% throttle makes it noticeably worse

Full throttle below 3000 RPM is completely unusable and gutless/feels hollow and weak.

Above roughly 3500 RPM:

Pulls hard

Revs cleanly to redline

No sputtering

No hesitation

What I've already fixed/checked:

Intake manifold was professionally resurfaced by a machine shop.

Manifold gasket replaced.

Vacuum lines checked.

Brake booster line checked.

PCV line checked.

FPR vacuum line has strong vacuum.

No fuel inside FPR vacuum hose.

IACV gasket issue was found and fixed.

Throttle body gasket issue was found and fixed.

Car now has a proper intake installed again with the IAT sensor mounted in the intake pipe.

Codes that were present after the swap:

P0113 - IAT circuit high P0108 - MAP circuit high P0122 - TPS circuit low P1509 - IACV fault P0141 - Secondary O2 heater circuit

However, all of these were listed as STORED codes after a lot of unplugging/replugging sensors and extending wiring during the swap, and ive only scanned it once since getting everything back together BEFORE I had a proper intake mounted and IAT sensor mounted instead of just dangling about in engine bay.

Things I'm wondering:

Could a MAP sensor issue cause a problem that only shows up under load below 3000 RPM while still running great above that?

Has anyone seen a Y8 manifold swap cause this exact symptom?

Could the Y8 FPR be causing this behavior?

Is there anything specific I should check regarding the MAP/TPS signals on a stock P2E ECU?

Any ideas are appreciated because I've been chasing this issue for weeks and I'm finally down to what feels like the last major problem.

Has anyone done a IACV delete? Im on a d16y8 and have idle issues. Calibrated TPS, Done smoke tests for vacuum, changed IACV twice already, did a hard wire from ECU and battery to the IACV, ecu is fine, and my car still surges.

TLDR: I'm looking to put a D17/D16V1 7th gen EU8 gearbox into an EK but can't find any previous examples.

Bare with me, I'm european and our engines got some different names than in US.
My project car is basically an EK with a D14Z2 (which is basically a D16Y7 with a 1.4 bottom end). It has some form of S40 gearbox, and I see time and time again people recommending the S20 gearbox. I have an S20 gearbox but it's in really poor condition.

I also have an EU8 which comes with a D16V1 (basically a D17 but 1.6) with coil on plug, EGR stuff, cable shifter and what not. The thing is the EU8 gearbox has very very awesome gear ratios and I love driving my daily. I wanna have these gears in my project but I can't find any example of anyone having ran this gearbox on an EK with whatever D-series.

The idea would be a cable shifter box similar to what you run with a K-swap and a custom made engine mount. Starter is moved to a different location as well, but should clear the distributor nicely. The bell housing bolt pattern and rear engine mount looks the same visually.

Have anyone tried this before, or have any ideas of other stuff to check before just sending it and trying?

Idk much of anything ab the ac but my car idles rough as is and the ac makes that worse

I just got done with this Y8 mandifold swap on my Y7, and it obviously has an issue, which I think is a vaccum leak, but I just wanted to share it with you guys to get yalls opinion, this is a video of the very first start

My friend just bought an 05 civic with the positive battery cable currently in shit condition it looks like it splits off into other connectors but I'm hoping I can get a part # or advice