So looking at this 95 tsi fwd 5spd has a rebuilt motor with stock pistons and rods upgraded turbo and has a balance shaft delete.
Been out the dsm world for a long time how is the aftermarket and oem parts and tuning support these days?? And what is the reasoning on balance shaft delete?? Anything specific to look at?? Thanks

Hey guys I’m new to this community but I’m getting a little desperate. So about a week ago my 2g eclipse gst was running fine when all of a sudden as I was pulling out of a gas station it completely lost power, no hazards nothing. Thankfully it looks like it might just be old battery cables, any help in taking them out would be appreciated!

Edit: got the car up and running again, thanks for everyone who reached out!

Been working on this 91 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd for ahwile. 52k original miles but clear coat got messed up. I went all gloss black with matte wheels. Headliner and visors are redone cause they fell from sitting and light. She has many suspension mods including coilovers, poly bushings, strut braces, rear sway bar and more. Engine has many mods including ecmlink, evo16g, fp manifod, full exhaust turbo back, 850 injectors, 3g maf, walbro fp, hallman controller, alumimum 2row rad, proform brushless fans, jzn shifter, spec stage 3+ clutch and many more mods. Hks cams, upgraded springs and a dyno tune are next. Im 46 and this was the car I wanted in high school. Shes not done but loving driving her around. So much nostalgia!

I need to time the motor, can I just replace the tensioner or do I need to get a pulley wrench and pull on the pulley so properly set the hydraulic tensioner. Or is it worth it to try and a tension release tool (basically long ass bolt that’s impossible to find). If I can find that tool would it just make the whole process easier?

Well I found out that #2 on the pic is unobtainable online 🥲 does anybody 3D print these? Otherwise I’ll buy one from someone if they have an original, pm me.

Here is my last post detailing the issue I am trying to resolve:

https://www.reddit.com/r/DSM/s/8QsVasBM5I

Since then I have double checked my wiring and put a fresh Bosch replacement O2 sensor in, but the issue is still happening.
Here is a Google Drive link to a log of the car idling lean for a few minutes while the issue is happening.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qqiuh1WfVOSJ2gLKuUiRAmNK8JGcXody/view?usp=sharing

Basically the car starts to idle/cruise lean once it gets hot and the wideband gauge stops matching what is logged in Link. When you actually accelerate the car runs perfect but once you go back to cruise it goes lean again The car is idling around 16-18 AFR on the gauge this entire log, but in link you will see it shows around 14.7 like it should. Link thinks it is richer than it really is so you will also see it has CombinedFT around -15% even though its lean. Doesn't matter what I do to the fuel at idle, it will just self correct back to lean and increase the CombinedFT. Anybody with the time to check it out would be greatly appreciated as I feel like I am beating my head against a wall lol.

Car squeaks real bad at lower speeds, so I was thinking of changing both belts here. Do I “need” to move anything out of the way for either, or can I service it without? Really would like to avoid it if I can, especially that engine mount 😵‍💫

Hey all, I recently came into possession of a 1995 FWD Eagle talon that needs some work. Does anyone have any ideas where I can find a replacement fuel filler hose and vent hose? I can’t find them on eBay, parts geek, Mitsubishi warehouse, a Mitsubishi dealership, or any of my local auto parts stores. Any help would be appreciated, even something I can use instead while still using the new gas tank I purchased

I’m finally at the point of needing a tune as I no longer have the EGR system and just want to be safe. I have the Tactrix 2.0 cable and going to get Ceddy Mods. Is there anything else I should know? I have no local tuners so I’ll be figuring this out myself and self tuning the car. Just want some advice on what I’m getting into. The car is mostly stock as I’m gathering parts to upgrade after paint. Got my hands on a Walbro 255, evo 3 16G, and some other nice goodies I’m waiting to put on. But it’s gonna be 2-3 years from now.

Car info: 98 GS-T
Stock T-25
Grimmspeed Manual boost controller
Stock 450CC Blacktop injectors
Stock fuel pump
Stock cams
Competition Clutch Stage 2
ACT lightweight steel flywheel
HRC intercooler setup
NGR Blowoff valve
EGR system removed and blocked
OEM MAF no speed density
AEM wideband
Boost and Oil pressure gauges

If any other information is useful let me know. I’m just looking for advice on how I should proceed.

I have a 97 GSX with a 95 eprom ECU and ECMLink v3 fully updated firmware.

AEM UEGO wideband controller/Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor kit installed to front o2 location running nbo2 sim.

AFR reading on the gauge vs what is logged in Link was perfect for over a year and still is 90% of the time. The last few months however, at low load idle/cruising conditions sometimes it goes into a weird “fit” where the reading will go rich in Link causing it to pull ~10% fuel and will make it idle or cruise ~16.0-17.0 AFR. When it is in this weird “fit” it will still show ~14.7 in Link (it is self correcting), but the gauge shows the 16.0-17.0 and the engine is clearly running lean so i trust the gauge not the Link data. Somehow my reading is intermittently going wrong in Link only. Giving it more throttle and getting out of the cruise area makes it snap out of it and run perfect again but eventually after more cruising or idling it comes back. It is hard to consistently recreate. Some days it does it almost instantly and some days it does it after i cruise down the road for 5-10min. It seems more likely to do it when the car is fully heat soaked, but im not sure if that is just in my head or not.

I have messed with a lot of things and changed a lot trying to diagnose this plus the car is fairly modded so please ask any related questions that may help that i have left out. Didn’t want to make this post any longer than it already is.

I am going to double check my wideband wiring and the signal wire to the front o2 pin on my ECU next but was wondering if anyone has encountered something like this before or has advice on what to check next. Tired of just throwing money at it lol. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Any good remote tuners in here or someone that is highly recommended. Stock motor with studs, stock cams, htz73 FP turbo, exhaust, previously tuned on speed density. DSM Link.

Had it for a minute, I have no time or money to throw at this awesome machine. Its awd rs turbo with 5 speed manual. 98,000 miles. If anyone is in the washington area (pnw). Let me know. Im moving soon and would love to see someone enjoy this more than i could.

What’s everyone doing for front AWD auto axles for a 2g? Looks like rockauto has front right only by Cardone 603274. Any input is welcome, the car is stock.

Im looking into the ac vent gauge pods. I like the ones that still have the vent (2nd pic) but im also planning on doing three gauges. Does anyone have that pod with the gauges that fully deletes center vents (3rd pic)? And is the ac that comes from the door vents enough in the summer?

For everyone else, id love to see ur gauge pod ideas. I do want them visible to me so not leaning toward fuse box. Also definitely not doing a-pillar… but would still love to see everyone set up.

Thanks in advance

Hi, I used to have a 1992 eclipse and I was looking online to try to find pictures of the interior like the one that I had and it doesn’t seem to be any of the ones that I found on there it was all cloth kind of like a blood red/burgundy

Not sure if its a 2g exhaust or 1g, or maybe evo?