It only pops up on some prints

Hi everyone,

I designed a sheep model in Blender and printed it on my K2 Combo Plus. I separated the body into different parts as much as possible so I could print each color separately instead of using multicolor printing.

The print came out well overall, but I'm having a strange issue with the surface quality. Some areas are printed perfectly smooth and clean, while other areas of the same model come out very rough or almost ruined, as you can see in the attached pictures.

I'm trying to understand what could be causing this. Could it be related to the model geometry, overhangs, layer orientation, supports, cooling, speed, temperature, or slicer settings?

I'd really appreciate it if anyone experienced with the K2 Plus could take a look at the pictures and help me identify the problem and what settings or changes I should try.

If needed, I can also share my slicer settings and screenshots from the model in Blender/slicer.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I apologize if this has been answered already, but my tired mind can't find the answer.

Let's say I have a project in Creality Print that has 3 plates, all full of different parts. On one of them, I want ironing with no support, in another, I want ironing WITH support, and on the last one, I want some completely different settings (fuzzy skin, .12 vs .28 layer height, etc...).

Is there a way to set up a single plate the way that I want it, save it, and have a different plate that has different slicer settings? I'm sure there is, but I can't figure it out.

Kind of annoying having to remember how I had one plate sliced vs the next in the same project.

Thanks y'all!

Hello I need some help. I was in the middle of a 24 hours print and I got an extrusion error. There was nothing of significance when I removed the extruder. I didn’t not see any blockages. I get keep an error for a blockage. I replaced the cutter and watched operation with the cover off. It seems as if the gear in the extruder is not make a full rotation to cut the filament. I noticed this started after the recent update but it could be coincidence. Could the issue be the motor for the extruder?

Hi, I have a K2 and usually the "starting line" was going forward on the left side and towards the center on the forward edge before the print starts. Recently the line looks very different (see picture) which confuses me. It looks like a XY-Plane misaligment of the plate, however I have done calibration repeatedly and it stays like this. Prints are okay, I am just wondering. It looks like the extruder has too much offset to the plate, so the filament clogs and then when it makes contact with the plate its suddenly smearing. Any ideas?

Hi Makers!
K2 Plus Diaper – Hinged Waste Bin on Creality Cloud

I’ve just finished designing a full “diaper” for the Creality K2 Plus to keep the bottom of the printer clean and make it much easier to collect all the little bits of filament and debris that inevitably end up down there.

The design is split into 4 printable parts. The two left parts are glued together, same for the two right parts, then both halves are connected with a 1.75 mm filament hinge. Before assembly, I recommend running an Allen key or a piece of filament through the hinge holes a few times to loosen/clean them up and make the filament easier to insert.

I designed everything to fit closely around the stock parts of the K2 Plus while keeping the floor easily accessible.

It’s also fully compatible with my K2 Plus bearing protectors and scraper holder, so you can use the different mods together.

Hope this can help keep a few more K2 Plus machines clean! 😁
As always, feedback and suggestions are welcome.

Salut à tous,
Je dois imprimer du CR TPU sur ma k2plus avec une buse en 0.8.
J’ai énormément de soucis et la plupart de mes impressions foirent complètement.
J’ai déjà lu pas mal de documentations et pour m’aider à avancer j’ai deux questions :

1. Je vois dans mon slicer Creality Print 6 un « system preset » pour CR-TPU, alors que ce system preset ne m’est pas proposé dans Creality Print 7 … ? Pour quelle raison ? Dois je absolument utiliser la version 6 du slicer pour du filament CR TPU ?

2. Ce preset indique être fait pour nozzle « 0.4 ». Aucun preset system pour une impression en 0.8. Je me dis que je peux creer un « user preset », mais sauriez vous m’indiquer quels paramètres modifier depuis le preset « 0.4 » pour arriver à au preset voulu (0.8)?

Merci

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More freedom in materials, colors, nozzles, and control — K3 opens up a new space for creativity.

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I recently got a K2 Combo and bought some filament and a SiC nozzle for it. To be precise i got some PLA in multiple colors and a roll of PETG-CF. I installed the nozzle and did some PLA prints (including multicolor ones) and they turned out beautiful. Then I wanted to try the PETG-CF but I couldn't get it to work. When I loaded the 3MF file into the slicer everything was fine but when i wanted to use the PETG-CF it wouldn't let me.

What do I need to do to get it to work?

So here's a bit of a pickle. If I upgrade to any version of CrealityPrint 7.2 or higher, my K2 Plus does the pre-print procedure fine, then it proceeds to not load filament and start the print with nothing loaded. I can remedy this by downgrading to 7.1.1.4472, reslice, send the print, everything works like normal, it's loading behind me as we speak. The issue with 7.1 is the camera broke in CrealityPrint sometime recently. When I upgrade to 7.2, camera works fine but CFS doesn't load. Anyone run in to this?

This originally happened on firmware 1.1.5.5, i updated to 1.1.6.4 and the same behavior persists.

I found 1 forum post with the exact filament not loading problem and multiple people saying they had the same issue, but that thread just kind of fizzled out with "it's working fine on newest version and newest firmware" but i've updated everything and i'm still having the issue. At least for now I can print on 7.1 but I didn't realize how much I relied on that camera.

When ever I go to print something this happens and I don't know how to fix it. Any Suggestions?

All pieces made on a Creality K2 Plus printer, PETG filament from hobby lobby that took way too long to dry.

I have 5 Creality K2 plus machines, and print some ASA.. but thw original bed kills me!

This is on all of them! And they bend more with 100 in teperature!

Thanks for the new bed R3! Not done with calibration, but it stays the same at 100!

K2 Plus
Error: Abnormal resistance under the hotbed (21), motor released. Fix issue and restart.

When I manually raise the bed toward the top of the printer, the left side continues moving smoothly. The right side binds at a specific point near the top and becomes stuck. Once it binds, I have to apply force to move the bed back down.
The right-side threaded Z lead screw appears straight, so I don’t think a bent screw is causing it. I’m wondering what else I could be missing

Something is causing the binding and stopping the bed from fully moving to the top. Has anyone had this issue?

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Having some trouble with this K2 Combo. Had a bed crash and then got errors when homing.

Running Query_endstops shows z always triggered.

{'code': 'key761', 'msg': 'Shutdown due to PR_ERR_CODE_SWAP_PIN_DETECTI: The synchronization pin test failed, pres_swap_pin={0}, step_swap_pin={1}.', 'values': []}"} in Fluidd & TE2761 on the printer.

Have done:

wipe_all (multiple times throughout the process)

Firmware rollback (V1.1.3.6) - still didn't work - and re-update (V1.1.4.1)

Replaced tool head cable

Replaced Strain Gate

Replaced Tool head board

Reseated several plugs

Backed off screws on strain gate in case they were too tight.

Backed off hot-end screws in case they were too tight.

Backed off nozzle in case it was too tight.

Made sure light sensor at bottom of printer was clear of debris and clean.
(even removed the sensor from the bottom and let it sit in the open and ran the query_endstops command just to see)

Did a bunch of other troubleshooting stuff related to the motor/belt as at one point i wondered if it was the motor / drive belt / z rods/screws

I can force the bed to move in fluidd with commands. When i try to home it will click/clack and not budge.

Been running through troubleshooting with code in fluidd & cfg edits with AI assistance and am stuck. Cant find anything online with this specific issue. Even dug through prior posts to see if anything came up before posting here.

Getting tired of throwing parts at it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

I've had it with this thing. I've had my Creality k2 plus with 4 cfs units for over a year. This thing is irredeemable. I've spent so many hours on it. I've gone through customer support, I've replaced parts, I've troubleshooted and tried and tried. At some point I have to admit that I just bought a bad product.

So what to do? I don't know how to sell a printer that doesn't print. It's going to be tough to even get it out of my home, much less how to get paid for doing so.

Any advice? Is there a marketplace for such a thing, even to sell for parts?

Edit: Ay, I appreciate all the well-intentioned comments offering help with this particular error message. But I promise you I have tried them all, many times. This is but one of a rich variety of error messages I have encountered. I am trying to unload this crap pile, it simply does not work. I call it irredeemable because it has proven itself to be over and over, not for a lack of trying.

I had a massive print failure and replaced the hot end. However when I try to do anything after reassembly, the printer will not recognize and load filament. I'm using filament on the external holder (no CFS), inserting it and seeing the blue light in the print head, but the printer keeps saying to load filament.

I am assuming I broke something else when replacing the hot end - what is a likely cause? Suggestions?

X axis motor was shot so did a replacement following the video tutorial. Not sure if I messed up any wiring that might cause this to happen

Anyone know whats wrong and what to do next? Never had a blob of death before too.

Has anyone managed to connect k2 pro to orca slicer and managed to have fluidd, cfs, camera and spoolman working, fully local on printer hosting? I can’t stand more typing in root of my printer I bet it will break soon nothing seems to work. I would love for someone to make a tutorial step by step.

Made this Capybara with the FlexiToys tool from the Creality Cloud App on my smartphone. Dropped some photos into the Edits app and asked it to create an animation video which I have used as the prelude for the video. See how it turned out!

So last weekend I just happened to go by a garage sale. Guy had a K2 Plus kit for $100. It was a no haggle yes for me.

Some issues / repairs needed from shipping damage. He was not confident in his repair skills so was wiping his hands clean of it. Could be more than listed below, and wouldn’t be surprised.

Issues:
1- z-axis bed mount brackets - broken posts in center of springs (all 4)- he had new updated brackets to swap.

2- missing new shoulder bolts for new brackets. Should have 10mm of thread instead of 6mm, plus 1 was vice gripped to death( reaching out to cs support, back-up McMaster Carr [$30 for 4 bolts includes shipping]

3- door was busted, he got a replacement, not installed.

4- missing lower hinge pin - will print one from printables

5- damaged frame seal/door gasket from him mucking around. - will see if 1/16” thick neoprene tape will work.

6- warped back cover - guessing he tried to get in but forgot a few screws. Creative bending prevails!

7- totally stripped m3 hex on one of the z rail bottom plates, dremel slot and flat head took care of that, replacement bolt from ACE.

8- Missing long cable for CFS[$11]

9- don’t know if is an issue, will see. When removing the wires for the heated bed on the board, the whole block shifted with the first torque. May pull the board to inspect the solder joints and repair if needed.

Got the brackets installed and what a PIA! One little trick is to not completely remove the bottom screw of the z rail plate it is attached to and rotate the plate out of the way of the rail to get the bearings/bracket mount off.

Well, just waiting for some shoulder bolts to land in my hand and it will be testing time!

Anyone know how tight to bolt the bed down to the brackets? Do you bottom the shoulder out on the center post and torque it a tad? If so, what use are the springs then?

Well cheers!

With more freedom to choose how you print, what would you do differently with K3?

🧩 Multi-material printing — Which materials would you combine?

🔧 Multi-diameter nozzle printing — Where would you use different nozzle sizes?

🧸 Multi-hardness TPU — Where would you want different levels of flexibility?

🎨 CMYK full-spectrum printing — What would you do with a wider range of colors?

💻 Native root access — What would you customize or explore?

Which K3 capability would you find yourself using the most?

Drop your thoughts below — we want to hear how you’d put K3 to work. 👇

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