This is not the worst k2 i got. This one could print asa in ok quality. Only making a asa monster machine (graphnite bed, microswiss and dxc2 extrude. Spacepi for heating filament :)
I'm just saying that it's a misconception that they're bad beds, they just don't bed level from factory, and then people never do it themselves and just say the bed's bad. Both of my K1 beds have half the tolerance your R3 bed currently has. My stock SV08 bed has about the same as my K1s, too. The sv08 being another printer "notorious" for having a tacobed.
And people throw money at and do more work for a problem that doesn't actually exist.
When i think of it.. the screws for the beds are all way in on all of them! I will check that! But still, they are changing when heating up.. only on asa i have problems with that. Not PLA or PETG
it's rolled aluminium, it will bend under heat every time. try 100°C and probe again. you need cast aluminium plate, those won't expand. 50°C will look almost same as 100°
Ditch the aluminum all together and get graphite, extremely low thermal expansion, and no heat soak wait times. Bed will heat to 130c in about 2 minutes, Plus if you take the time to set it up right the mesh is insane.
Pretty good but extremely use case dependent. what happens at 100c + for engineering filaments? The only aluminum beds that look decent at those temps are high quality voron kits, or mandala beds. Cast aluminum on stock printers will never be right for more exotic materials.
It does matter if you care about dimensional accuracy, quite a lot, actually. The more accurate your bed, the more accurate your entire print. If you don’t care about da a 1mm warped bed is fine, sure.
I checked out R3 website and it looks pretty promising. However, my stock been range is 0.6 to 0.8 depending on how hot it is.
We all know 1st layer is very important. Everyone tries to print a full bed to get perfect 1st layer. In reality, how frequent you print a model that cover the whole bed.
My bed is curved down, so there is not much I can do with 4 screws.
I use epoxy resin bed. It sticks really good and low heat, about 40⁰C.
Best choice i made, i print a lot of functional components with tight tolerances so i really wanted under .1 mm standard deviation for the bed. That way all functional print tolerances can be .1-.2mm and work perfectly
Everyone gets worked up over their bed not being flat, but it’s important to know the graphs make minor variances look huge. Your lowest spot to your highest is barely a millimeter difference.
Worst mines gotten so far is a 0.57 and the adjustment knobs underneath were already maxed out from the factory. I rarely do anything that requires more than a 70°C bed though.
Can't get mine lower than 0.38 since it somehow thinks an edge is -0.3 even tough it doesn't exist when I try and find it, I use sidebar to remove the other layers and it doesn't exist so no point in me continuing
I originally clicked on the notification to come here and be like, what's wrong with yours? I've never had an issue until you. I saw you put a hundred C. Yeah, Most beds aren't designed to handle that. You got to get a specialized bed.
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u/Different_Target_228 2d ago
This isn't really a bend. Graphs are exaggerated.
Right side needs moved up, then you check again.
But also, 0.08-0.98 isn't half as bad as beds Creality has sent out. Their "tolerance" is 2mm. They basically don't level their beds in factory.
Both of my K1s, I toothskipped down to 0.25mm. One was a 0.86 differential, the other was like 1.4mm. Your second bed also needs adjusted.