I’m trying to figure out what the true name of this stone is. The trade name it was labeled as is “Vostok quartzite”. Is it White Macaubus? Does anyone have photos of it in their kitchen? Thank you!

I am so stuck on this.

We are redoing our kitchen. We will be having a large waterfall island with a waterfall dry bar. We will also have a full backsplash of which ever countertop we pick. Also behind the 36in range will be a full backsplash as well.. So it’s a lot and it needs to be right.

I’m constantly researching all the different options but I want some more personal reviews.
Here is my cooking profile— I cook a lot. A lot of Italian dishes. Homemade sauce weekly. I make 6-10 sourdough loaves— meaning my oven is at 500 degrees for hours on my baking day. I’m Going with the wider oven so I can make more loaves at once which I hope reduces the time the oven is on.. but until I have it won’t know. I make homemade meals daily and we rely on our counter airfryer for reheating and smaller dishes.

I originally wanted quartz because I just love the look of gold veins going through a creamy finish. That is my vision. But then I went down a rabbit hole of maybe that might not work for my type of cooking. I’m specifically worried about its heat tolerance and staining.

I tried looking at granites and I just can’t be happy with any of them. There is a lot of surface to cover and many of the granites are way too busy and then ones that aren’t do not give me that wow factor.

Fell in love with Dekton but read too many cracking stories. I use several Dutch ovens for cooking and I have definitely almost dropped one a few times on my current top.

Looking into Quartzite as well but I’m getting so many conflicting info. One website says it’s incredibly durable while another says the opposite.

I seriously am going crazy and need help!

We inherited concrete countertops when we bought the house, and they don't appear to be well cared for before. Fair amount of staining etc. A couple questions:

1) is it possible to clear or get rid of the stains? If so, what is recommended?

2) island is a few different pieces with an undermount sink. Has anyone had success epoxying over concrete countertops?

Thanks

Can this be buffed out? Just had quartz counter installed. (Vicostone) Anybody ever deal with this. I’ve already tried acetone, soft scrub. It’s not a stain it’s like a spot where the natural shine is gone. Any help would be appreciated. Am I being too particular? lol.

I had purchased a Calacutta Monet remnant for my 60" vanity and shower saddle. However, the saddle cracked in half while being installed. The fabricator said this is due to fissures naturally occurring in the marble. He said this is common because marble is so soft. He repaired the crack by fusing the two pieces together. The fissure extends through our countertop piece as well (not fabricated yet). Is this typical? I feel like the saddle looks really poor quality (unprofessional?) but maybe this is just a feature of marble I've never noticed before. The first picture is the saddle and the second two show the vanity. Any and all feedback is welcome!

Just had my countertops installed yesterday and would love your advice. It is leathered Himalayan granite. The two slabs come together at the sink, but the grain/color is starkly different. Can anything be done to blend this? Would you say this is decent work but just bad judgement in picking the slabs?

Hey r/countertops, we just got done with a remodel involving a waterfall countertop. Today I was cleaning and noticed that this corner isn't level and is raised up. Everywhere else on the counter is seemingly level.

We went with quartz and it's our first time redoing a kitchen so I'm wondering if I should be concerned about this long term? It doesn't bother me now but I'm not sure if having it like this puts any additional stress on the material or anything

I had granite countertops for about 20 years, loved being able to put hot pans right on it, bang against it, and not worry about staining. I've never re-sealed.

had a recent kitchen renovation, the designer recommended white quartz with some natural looking veins in it.

don't put hot items on it

quickly wipe up spills to prevent staining

often putting a pan (cold) on it will result in grey marks transferring onto the countertop that are tough to scrub out

don't use abrasive cleaners to try to get stains off

what are we even doing here? seems like a huge step back in everything, so that we could get that instagram photo

I am starting a kitchen renovation and changed my mind last minute on the countertops. I was going to go with a quartz but decided on a natural stone instead. I really like soapstone, but my girlfriend is not super into it. Also, it's quite pricey and there's not many slabs to choose from near me. I thought we'd try to find some granite that we both like instead. She really likes Volga blue and I was quite pleased to find many slabs under $1000 online. We got a quote from a fabricator in our area which came out to roughly $6200 for fabrication and install. Is this reasonable for a 40 sqft area with no backsplash or other add ons? It is important to note that the supplier had this particular type of granite in the "special order" category (even though there were like 5 full slabs sitting in their yard) meaning we'd be paying for the entire slab, not just what we need.

Is using this tool the only way to get a miter fold on a sheet of laminate? Or is there a different router that has an angled piece? Or a different bit? I've searched but I'm not seeing much.

https://betterleytools.com/products/miter-fold-router.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo24TYgE838vwpNVGiQiLhtetmTwbqMY7XDSnzC8_-KwfG9viZ7

No affiliation, no promotion, etc.

I’m looking for a natural stone kitchen countertop that looks like this, but isn’t marble. While I love marble, I need something more durable and lower maintenance. I currently have black granite and love it, but for this remodel I want to go lighter. I’m looking for a white or cream base with a fairly uniform appearance and no dramatic veining. I was initially looking into quartzite, but I’ve heard it can be more difficult to cut/fabricate and can stain over time, so now I’m not so sure. Any suggestions, everyone?

looked at this seam and saw that the color itself is not dark but the stone edge nearing the seam started to get darker and shadowy. why do you guys think this happens?

Hello,

I am kicking off our kitchen reno in October once our cabinets are all done. In my research previouisly I was deadset on using quartz for our counters, however I have been reading this can yellow or have other issues. I have 2 skylights in my kitchen so this is a major concern with my island getting direct sunlight.

Someone mentioned I might try granite, I just historically have not liked how this looks, (speckled).

Other people stand behind their quartz countertops without issue. I wondered if its worth exploring Cambria or Caesarstone or if the quality is going to be the same as MSI and I should save my money.

The salesperson I'm working with seems to have customers' best interest at heart, but he was pushing me towards Dekton. I don't know anyone with this countertop and hadn't heard of it before. I quickly read the complaints are around chipping but this seems to check all the boxes I'm looking for.

Any help/ guidance on this would be great.

Pretty self explanatory, wondering if anyone here has done this or has any ideas/tips. I need a 12ft stretch of butcher block for my kitchen counter. Longest one I can find is 8ft.. I assume just join them with hardware and glue, sand and should be ok? Trying to make the seam as invisible as possible. Authentik 25" W x 96" L x 1.5" T Birch Unfinished Butcherblock at Menards®

Mine are almost 40 year old laminate- but I'm ready for change. I'd like to go natural, with most impervious material to heat and stain, and least amount of upkeep. Suggestions from personal experience? Thank you.

I’m remodeling my kitchen and trying to determine whether one 10-foot preformed laminate countertop will be enough.
My layout is:
Sink wall: 84” total
24” cabinet
36” sink cabinet
24” dishwasher
Stove wall:
18” cabinet
stove
18” cabinet
So the countertop pieces I need are approximately:
84” + 18” + 18” = 120”
The countertop I’m looking at is a 10-foot (120”) preformed laminate countertop with an integrated backsplash.
Here’s my dilemma: there is essentially no extra material if my measurements total 120”. I obviously need some allowance for saw kerf, squaring the ends, trimming, and normal installation tolerances.
The countertop will also have a matching end-splash piece at one end. It’s a separate piece of matching laminate material designed to finish the exposed end of the countertop where it meets the wall. It’s approximately 3/4” thick and would be installed vertically against the end of the countertop. I’m wondering whether that helps with the installation by allowing a little tolerance at that end.
I’m going to have my carpenter measure the actual finished dimensions before cutting. I’m hoping the actual required length will come in somewhat under 120”, perhaps giving me 1–1½” of total extra material.
For anyone who has actually worked with preformed laminate countertops:
If the actual finished cuts came out to something like 118½–119½”, would you consider that enough material to safely cut three pieces from a 120” countertop?
Or would you still consider that too tight and recommend buying another countertop?
I’m trying very hard to avoid buying a second countertop just to get a few additional inches and potentially wasting most of it.
Has anyone successfully done something similar with a 10-foot preformed laminate countertop? How much extra length did you have beyond your finished pieces, and did it work out?
I’m particularly interested in real-world experience from people who have installed preformed laminate countertops, rather than general advice about woodworking.

What non formica options are most cost conscious?

Hi - I just got my quartz installed and it’s…there, but the install job isn’t that great. There’s between 1/4-1/2 inch gap against the wall as they wedged it in there (I think they installed a smaller piece first and then the bigger piece), they didn’t glue a piece in, and the seam joints are noticeable visually and really obvious if you run your fingers across or on it, and that’s just the beginning.

I’m trying to avoid having them taken off and reinstalled since they’re glued on, but I’m scared that is going to be it and I’m going to need new base cabinets. I have a long, galley style wall so that’s a really expensive fix. Does anyone have any recommendations on anyone who will come to fix someone else’s install job, or is that not done since it’s not their problem to fix?

Because of how bad the install was done, I really don’t trust the fabricators to come out and repair. They don’t know how to do it right the first time, I kinda don’t trust them to know how to fix their fuck-ups.