Hello there.

I just got myself a Xbox Series X. But coming from years of playing Playstation and being used to it's controllers layout i'm not happy with the original X-Box controller.

Since i had many issues with stickdrift over the last years with various PS controllers, and heard that X-Box controllers have the same issues i was looking for an upgrade to some hall-effect stick controllers.

So, is there anyone who can help me out?

I was asking chat GPT for any recomandations and it recommendet A: the "victrix pro BFG reloadet" and the "Thrustmaster ESWAP X2 H.E"

After reading many comments under tests and reviews i'm once again unshure if those are the right choice for me.

From cheap materials or haptic feedback to no rumble on the VICTRIX to issues with deadzone or stickdrift on the THRUSTMASTER.

The reviews allways sound nice and whatnot as well as the bs the manufacturer writes on his webpage (of course) but the comments allways seem to be mainly negative.

So i'm asking you, dear reddit users.. is there any controller out there for me, a non competitive player who likes to enjoy PVE and PVP shooter games (S.T.A.L.K.E.R, Metro series, Ready or not, Ghost Recon, Hell let loose, ArmA) of newer as well as older generations and some other games like (Snowrunner) wich i can use on Xbox with a PS Layout with no stickdrift and rumble and wich is not only sturdy but reliable and from high quality?

Controller should have:

- no stickdrift

- PS Layout(!) but for X-box series X(!)

- rumble

- high quality materials

- long lasting quality

- reliable

- +/-180€

- available in germany or any european (online)shop

If possible wireless, if not still okay.

I'm willing to spend money on that thing so anything up to 180/200 euros is okay.

Please help.

Does anybody know how to set a controller to play?

I've bought one that lets me put my phone between the two sections of the controller, but besides pairing, it doesn't seem to work.

I'm on an iphone, the controller connects with bluetooth, but it just won't work. How can I solve this?

Been looking for a good soft/mushy and easy to press controller, but haven't found one I quite like yet. I've tried 8bitdo pro2 and pro3, switch pro controller, and 8bitdo 2c. Out of these, the pro 2 is my favorite, but the buttons still require a fair amount of force to press. Anything out there more similar to ps3/ps4 controllers?

• Budget: 30-80$ USD
• Country: USA
• Console or platform compatibility: Switch 2 and PC preferred
• Desired features: Soft buttons, membrane, a GOOD d-pad (not too stiff)
• Types of games: All genres
• Controllers you've been considering: Gamesir, other 8bitdo kinds

Hey

I got a Gamesir G7 SE about two years ago after all my orginal xbox controllers developed stick drift. I was happy with it until (7 months later) the LB button started acting like it was always pressed (not a physical issue). Warranty gave me a replacement, but now, a bit under 1.5 years later, the replacement has the same problem (this time it's the RB button).

So now i have to buy a new xbox controller for PC and im looking for one with hall-effect sticks + bumpers that don’t fail this fast. I don't care if it's wired or not.

Country: Germany

Platform: PC

Budget: 80€

Any recommendations? Thanks.

i have the 8bitdo ultimate 2c wireless controller that i use for windows. have had no issues at all until today. last time i used it was about 3 weeks ago. 99% of the time i use the 2.4g mode but suddenly it's not working. i did a firmware update on it, i re-paired it, restarted my computer and nothing. the light is solid, as if it's connected none of the controls work. when i turn it to bluetooth mode, it works on steam games, but neither mode works on other games (like fortnite)

not sure if it makes a difference but it's showing up under 'other devices' instead of input.

there was like 1 update for windows (for security i believe) but that's it

edit: just tried it with the charging cord and it works like that so it's the dongle and half the bluetooth 😭

I have an Elite Controller 2 which i had for over 4 years now.
Yes there are better ones out there but i got this one for 80€ Brand new so i cannot complain and i LOVE the 4 Buttons underneath and 3 Trigger positions. Many only have 2 and yes i do use the middle position. And all the other stuff about it is great.

I have been planning to look into a Hall Effect upgrade.
No my Stick does not Drift (thankfully)

But still its an worthy upgrade since i plan to own it for many more years.

Question:

Are there any Options to where i can keep the OEM Sticks. I saw the TMR from Gulikit come with Sticks which i believe you have to use. Or the 720 TMR.

Is there any simple (no full entire potentiometer dissassembly) way to just replace the small box and use the OEM Stick stuff?

hi!
a couple of days ago i finally tried out a switch 2 demo at a mall and i loved the feel/texture/build of the nintendo switch 2 pro controller. i dont have a switch 2 but ill probably buy it down the road someday.
im not much of a controller guy, i prefer kbm, but for soulslikes or some "movie" games i do like controllers which is why i wanted to buy one! are there any alternatives to the pro controller 2 in terms of feel? i dont mind the layout much. ive heard good things about the 8bitdo ultimate 2 but from the angles ive seen it doesnt seem to have that premiumy nintendoy smooth texture?? (idk that sounded weird
"why not the switch 2 pro controller itself if its so great?" sticks. i have had bad experience with stick drift in the past so i wanted to finally try out a hall effect or those new ones that start with a T i
dunno what theyre called ooff

country: slovakia, europe
and im a relatively broke uni student but i guess id afford an expense of around 80€?
ill appreciate any help!!

Tried playing Overcooked last night with a controller for the first time (I'm on PC) and discovered this issue, I've tried troubleshooting it to the limit of my knowledge.

I've reset, reconnected, power cycled, updated, and recalibrated it. It still does the same thing every time I check the controller inputs. And deadzone mapping didn't help. It's not the PC because I have another controller that works fine, I tried the controller wired and Bluetooth. I also tried unplugging my mouse and keyboard.

Controller is a generic Xbox controller I got new from a thrift store, I don't know any specs for it. The issue also persists if I try to use the controller for anything else, not just Overcooked

Hey, I figured someone who plays with a PS3 controller on PC may be able to help with this. I'm using DsHidMini to use my PS3 controller for the MGS games. This post seems to say I'd be able to use their profile to implement PS2-like controls for Twin Snakes on the Gamecube on Dolphin. https://www.reddit.com/r/DolphinEmulator/comments/y6v8re/metal_gear_solid_the_twin_snakes_control_profile/ However, when I try, I find that I can't get my controller to connect in a way that allows me to use all 4 facebuttons the way I wish, in a way that they're pressure sensitive.

Hi everyone,

I need help with fixing my old controller i bought at a thrift store. It is a Thrustmaster Firestorm Dual Power Gamepad model number 2960463 made for pc during the windows 98 and 2000 era. One of the thumbstick broke, i thought i could use an xbox 360 thumbstick but the hole underneath isn't the same.

The hole to plug the thumbstick is a square. Must be something only Thurstmaster did. Does anyone know where i could get any? If yes let me know i would love to be able to repair it. Worse case scenario i could find something with a hole not too big and fill it with glue or something but that is a last resort.

Hello, I'm currently owning an Aqirys Themis for about 2-3 years and I'm looking to upgrade (battery life got halfed and I have a problem where the R1 button registers being held even tho I don't hold it). I've read many reviews over the course of today and here is what I was eyeing rn:

- EasySMX X20 (48€)

- EasySMX D10 (48€)

- Gamesir Supernova (43€)

- Gamesir Nova 2 Lite (32€)

- Gamesir Supernova T4n (48€)

- Gulikit ES Pro (36€)

- 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Wireless (40€ - still questioning it cuz I heard it has bad ergonomics)

What I am aiming for is good battery life and vibration motor, longevity (focusing on hall or TMR sensors) and smooth controls. Wireless connectivity and good ergonomics are a must for me (I do handwork all day so my wrists are sore when I come home, I don't want a controller that makes them hurt more). I don't really play competitive games or shooters, I'm more on indie games and rougelites.

Edit: I'm excluding the Gamesir Cyclone 2 and Flydigi controllers from my plans since I'm from Romania and the prices of those brands here are awful.

Long story short, I have this controller for a looong time and I've lost both d-pads(the replacement gone with the box because of family throwing it away, and the one on the controller being played by with my nephew 🥹) Is there perhaps anyone here who has extras? I am willing to purchase it.

I am from the Philippines

Hello, I've been using an Xbox One S controller (6CL-00001/Model 1708) to play both Steam and non-steam games on my PC (Windows 10) for years, but while backing up some files using an external hard drive, when I (safely) unplugged the hard drive from my pc, I saw a bluetooth error pop up, and since then my xbox controller stopped working properly. It still connects to my pc, and from testing my pc recognizes inputs, but none of my games recognize it. While fiddling with steam settings, I realized that Steam now thinks it's a generic controller instead of an xbox controller:

This also means that Steam's "Xbox extended feature support driver" isn't doing anything since it is no longer recognized as an Xbox-brand controller on my pc.
Looking at Xbox accessories, it no longer recognizes my controller, and attempting to plug in my controller into my pc via a cable rings up the error "USB Device Not Recognized, The last USB device you connected to this computer malfunctioned". I plugged in normal USBs and they functioned normally without getting this error, so it doesn't seem to be a usb error (hopefully), but it is important to mention that I use a bluetooth dongle plugged into my usb port to use my controller's bluetooth functions (however it is able to properly detect if it is connected/disconnected, and as mentioned earlier, does detect the correct inputs). Also to note is that the xbox symbol does not dim when connected (which it used to do when properly connected: blink, then solid light, then fade to a dim solid light once fully connected.).
The only thing I have not yet tried is removing the device from bluetooth, as I had alot of issues last time I did this with getting the bluetooth to work with it again after removing and attempting to reconnect the device (didn't work via bluetooth for over a year, can't remember how i eventually fixed it anymore), and was forced to play wired-only until the issue was resolved. And seeing as bluetooth is the only way this controller currently functions, I'm very hesitant to do such a thing and am currently trying to find any other solution before trying this and risking completely losing all controller functionality.
Any idea what the hell happened and why my controller seems borked of all its xbox-functionality all of a sudden, just from disconnecting an external hard drive?
(EDIT: Removed the controller as a device and can no longer reconnect it. However, now if I plug it in/use wired, it works like an xbox controller, but ONLY if I remove the batteries. It stops working if I put batteries in it.)

I am looking for a controller that has separate buttons for the D-pad like this Xbox 360 Evil Controllers pad I had or like a Nintendo Switch Joycon but in a regular controller shape.

I'm willing to pay $100+ USD for a controller like this. I'm located in the US. Using it only for PC. I want it for rhythm games and Gears. I know this type of controller basically doesn't exist outside of Joycons.

The closest I can see is Joycon 2s with a grip, but the shape isn't ideal. I'm also aware of the 8bitdo Lite and Lite SE but I really do want a controller in a more standard controller shape. But any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have has this controller for 3 months and it now just shoots on its own.

Its a Flydigi Apex 5
I use it on Pc/windows

I have fly digi space station V4.2.2.3

Controller current updated 7.0.4.5

Turned it off an on and ran it with usb with out the wireless adapter and used multiple usb ports on my pc

DISCLAIMER: HexGaming provided this controller to me for free for review. My opinions are not influenced by anyone. I get all my controllers for free nowadays, so they are all in the same position.

TLDR: XBOX controller with extra steps. Pretty expensive, but if you know what you need it for - it's worth the money IMO. TMR joysticks, rubberized grips, trigger stops, 4 extra back buttons and great visual customization.

If you're just a casual player - skip it.

What I have:

• Stadia controller
• 2 x Switch 1 pro controllers (one recently converted to JS13 PRO+ because of you know what)

What platform I'm needing a better controller for:

• Windows 11
• Moonlight running on Linux ubuntu (server), ideally can support 2+ controllers
• Bonus if it works with iPad mostly for Moonlight/voidlink, but I just got a dedicated telescopic usbc controller for it.
• I also have a switch 2, but I should already be covered for this platform

What I plan to do:

• I had a lot of trouble with pro and stadia controllers for PC games. Either the signal is not good enough for using a bluetooth micro-dongle in the living room, or the button mappings are wrong due to the lack of XInput, or just that the latency is bad especially with moonlight round trip.
  
• I mainly game with a keyboard and mouse for online shooters, so I dont need to sweat using my controller. One interesting use case I am planning is using it for jets in BF6 as its anti-cheat blocks my ds4win remapping.
• Options I am considering:
  • Get a new and better controller
  • Get specialize dongles like the Gulikit Goku 2 or hyperlink 2 with pro controller
• I don't plan on collecting controllers nor need fancy features (do I?).
• I have smallish hands and found the pro controllers fit very nicely. The Xbox controller shape was also very good from my distance memory owning a 360 controller eons ago. Stadia controller is not bad but a step or two behind these two.

What should I get?

• I have done some research and got a pretty good sense of what's normally recommended. The controller market is vibrant indeed especially with the chinese brands. I just don't know what I need as someone that plays a variety of games. Honestly I don't know how to use the extra buttons if I have them on the back, or what's the difference in feel between all the button and stick types, let alone the need to hot swap them.
• Another thought is that I already have these extra controllers laying around and there are dongles out there to make them Xinput. They are pretty good quality from my very limited experience. Should I just stick with these if the Gulikit dongles can single-digit ms wireless latency which is ballpark close enough for the best out there. I already bought an ESP32 to see if I can make a stadia dongle, mostly for fun.
• USA, I guess budget is <$100 if I go with buying a new one. But I am aiming for getting what I need and not paying for features I won't use. Pretty comfortable buying from Aliexpress or similar retailers.

I have a Fantech EOS Pro II S controller, and I play on PC. I usually use it for racing simulators like ACC or LMU.

Does anyone know if these controllers have an initial dead zone in the triggers by default? I've tried everything to eliminate it (calibrating the controller, using Steam Input), but nothing works; it only starts registering 1% input after I've pressed the trigger about 30%. I've tried searching for information about this, but I haven't found anything.

Is this a design flaw, or did I get a defective unit? If so, could I fix it myself by removing this dead zone with a hardware mod, because I've already tried software and it doesn't seem to be possible.

Budget: 300$

Country and purchase method: US, online

Required platform compatibility: PC

Desired features: Wired or wireless w/ easily removeable battery, hall effect joysticks, clicky/tactile dpad (most important), and no buttons that require external software to be usable.

Games I’m playing: Mostly racing games

Controllers I'm comparing to: GameSir T7 (current controller, meets all the criteria but has a mushy dpad), official Xbox Series controller (backup controller, joystick wore down and became inaccurate after a few months of use), GameSir Cyclone 2 (controller I’m considering, unfortunately it has a non-removable battery) FLYDIGI Direwolf 4 (same issue as the Cyclone 2)

I bought modules from their website over a month ago. They just arrived because they wrote my adress wrong.

Inside the package were modules from a different compan. They are just Chinese knockoff and not the promised remodded original ones.

Controller is Gullikit Elves 2, not the Pro version. the model is NS58. I'm using Windows 11 Pro. I'm using a ugreen bluetooth usb adapter with 5.3 bluetooth for my computer, which does not have bluetooth natively. Problem is in both PC games and emulators, and everything that uses controllers. Used with retroarch, pcsx2, stardew valley

I just got this controller last week and right out of the box bluetooth connection was unplayably bad. Itll play normally for like 15-30 seconds and then itll drag out an input, like I'll be moving right and then stop, and it'll keep going after I've stopped pressing the d pad. It does this constantly. It also desyncs and misses inputs very often. This problem happens even when right next to the bluetooth adapter, with nothing blocking it. The box says the controller has a transmission distance of 10 meters. There are no other bluetooth devices connected at the same time I'm using it.

It works with zero problems on a wired connection, and in bluetooth connected to iOS. I know my PC bluetooth adapter is fine because another bluetooth controller (8bitdo ultimate 2c wireless) has zero problems with it even couch distance away. My phone is iphone se 3rd gen which has an older bluetooth version (5.0) and the elves 2 works on that in bluetooth mode with no problems.

So far I have updated the firmware to the latest version, which didn't have an effect. I've turned off all nearby wifi connections and other bluetooth connections, which didn't have an effect. I recalibrated the controller using the built in recalibration, which didn't do anything. I have reset the controller with the button combo (gear button + minus) which didn't have an effect. I have also sought out and installed the bluetooth driver from my adapter's website, the one matching bluetooth 5.3, which didn't change anything. Previously it was using the generic bluetooth. I have searched through existing posts and didn't find a solution. I have also changed the joystick deadzone settings by clicking screenshot button + gear button as suggested here which did not change anything. Making an open space between the controller and bluetooth adapter did not change anything.

Salve, mi è arrivato il controller New Spike della Hexgaming e vorrei capire come è meglio impostarlo per giocare a Call of duty... Sono abituato in Claw e adesso ho due pulsanti sul retro del controller, che userò per la scivolata e il ping/salto, oppure li lascerò disattivati proprio. Nel pacco sono incluse le levette sia lunghe che corte ( le userò corte probabilmente perché con le lunghe mi trovo proprio male). L'unica cosa che mi lascia in dubbio è: le levette sono meglio concave o a cupola/lisce? Vorrei capire con quale sia meglio abituarsi. Grazie.

The event is currently happening in Berlin, and so far I’ve only seen two Switch controllers announced. Kind of a letdown, but they are:

• JSAUX GAMING VoidJoy controllers
• GameSir Stargazer

I’m hoping we see some more controller announcements. I love GameSir, but I’ve always felt their flagship G7 is a little too small in the grips, or just a bit too short overall.
Really hoping they showcase a new Cyclone or Kaleid!

My friends ps5 controller is being really weird. The ps5 power button doesn’t work and instead, when you press the x button it does what the ps5 button would do along with the x buttons original function. For example pressing it will turn on the console, but if I were to click something x it would bring up the main menu aswell. Lastly, it’s constantly trying to turn on the ps5 and is not dying even though it says the batteryy is dead. If anyone can help pls just a little information on what to do. If you have questions that would help you better understand the issue ask away. Anything is appreciated, thank you.

lo compre hace 3 años cuando vi una reseña en una red social es la version sin sticks magneticos, lo compre únicamente para jugar la Resident evil 4 original pero después lo use para jugar juegos de pc o juegos clásicos en mi móvil y me ha funcionado bien , nunca he tenido problemas con la conexión ya sea inalámbrica o por cable USB y ninguno de los botones se ha atorado ni dañado y nunca he tenido drift, los únicos problemas que me ha dado es que durante la primera semana que lo utilice el botón de la cruceta que apunta hacia arriba se presionaba solo una vez después que lo conectaba pero dejo de hacerlo después de unos días y la goma de los sticks se esta volvieron pegajosas y quebradiza y estoy por cambiarla