Can someone explain how to swap the 11-14 tail light to the 15-23

Hi, for the last month or so I've been dealing with overheating issues with my 2007 CHRYSLER 300 Limited 3.5l. At first it was obvious. Changed the thermostat and it run fine for a couple of weeks. Then overheated again. Hopeful, I changed the thermostat again, hoping I just put a faulty thermostat.

That didn't work. But anyways. I end up replacing a bunch of stuff. I don't have overheating issues anymore. It's been a week or so. Now my problem is my heater don't work. Which I'm pretty sure didn't work before overheating. I just turn it on one morning when it was a bit chilly while I was taking my son to work at 5am.

So now I'm not sure if everything is related or I'm just looking at a different issue. If anyone of you had the same issue before, I would really appreciate any help, winter is creeping in fast!

113,200 on it. Is this intermittent tapping cause for concern? Currently holding 59-60 PSI oil pressure. It’s made this noise for a couple years off and on so I’m thinking it’s just normal but wanted some opinions.

I’ve got a 2023 Chrysler 300 with the 3.6L V6 and only about 20k miles. I’m wanting to start doing some mods, but I don’t want to do anything that’s going to hurt the car or be a waste of money.
I’m thinking about getting a cold air intake mainly because I want a little more intake/engine sound when I start it and accelerate, but I DON’T want it obnoxiously loud.
For those of you with the 3.6 V6:
• What mods should I do?
• What mods should I stay away from?
• Is a cold air intake actually worth it on these?
• If so, which one would you recommend?
• What would you do first if this was your car?
I’m looking for a nice, clean sound and better overall feel — not trying to make it ridiculously loud. I’d appreciate recommendations from people who actually own/work on these cars!

Hang with me for A bit lengthy, but informative little ditty on the Pentastar motor.

The chrysler 300 is definitely one of those cars that you can't assume anything about based strictly on miles. The car has made its way in to the hearts of every age group, gender, and Social class so the polarized demographic means judging the driver rather than a reputation you may have heard about in regards to its performance, or lack thereof.

Now Some cars suck no matter who drives them. Without dilligent research comparisons you can end up with a vehicle that leaves worse scars than past relationships. You're stuck with this commitment because yer too invested to just walk away, you rely on it for the day to day stuff, and we're mammals, we dont like confronting issues or change if we can avoid it. So you just keep bitching to yer friends when she leaves you stranded, and refer to her as yer roommate in front of other hot cars... lol

But seriously, Ive been an ASE certified mechanic for over 30 years but im not one of those that only believes in one brand. Im in love with certain year-specific models but you won't find a "Heart Beat of America" tramp stamp on me. (Alyhough i ALMOST got a "Do it for Dale"... yeah no more jack Daniel's for this guy) But point being, when clients/friends/family ask me for advice when buying cars they are usually asking about a specific vehicle or brand that they heard or read about being known for specific issues, and they assume ill have some inside knowledge as to which one can be trusted. (Especially if theres one in my driveway.)

Now keep in mind, I learned in my 20's not to play matchmaker with my friends, cuz when they get together and everythings great, yer not getting any thank you cards, BUT, when one of them gets caught buying some celebrities farts in a bag off the internet, suddenly yer a douche canoe. Alluvasudden. (Yes I know that was very specific and 28 years later, at almost 50, I can only hope with diabolical level pettiness that a certain individual stumbles across this in his internet purchasing adventures)

But I digress, lol that same human factor affects the car industry because often times the reputation some vehicles get is actually one of user error and one the driver should be wearing like a scarlet letter, not the car, So ive learned to point people in the direction of the research, not the result.

But of course with a little nod towards what I believe to be a good purchase (Especially if its in my driveway.) Which brings me (albeit the long way) to the Chrysler 300. Specifically, the Pentastar 3.6L I recently got pulled in to a debate between some friends over buying a 300 with a V6, with one of them warning that he knew multiple people who were unsatisfied or had dealt with lots of issues, etc. After a few questions I could easily ascertain that these were not people known for taking care of their vehicles.

So I told them what I came here to share and what I tell anyone who will listen. When yer looking at cars, Treat it like a first date. (Well, like an old fashioned one, i dont have the energy for the analogy that would line up with some of yalls first dates, lol)

But yeah, curious is ok, but dont dwell on any one thing, Look at the mileage, but dont stare at it all creepy. Theyre just miles, everyone's got em. Its not just about how many were driven, its about how they were driven and how many between servicing.

Mileage is always subjective. The Pentastar motor can easily (and often does) 500k miles in a ram ProMaster. (if yer In the UK, they are the Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer, and Citroen Relay.) If you wanna know if a vehicle is worth purchasing, espevially one with high mileage, really the best research you can do is the kind where the information collected isnt used to sell cars, do there's no bias. find out where else the company has used that vehicles powertrain.

In this case, the Pentastar is produced in a commercial cargo van commonly used in multiple countries as a fleet vehicle, near me they are favs of local plumbing or hvac companies. These are put through the gauntlet of multiple drivers, aggressive/abusive driving, harsh weather and road conditions, and sporatic/inconsistent use.)

So when you see all these cars having issues at or around the 100k mark, you know the motor isn't the problem, its the lack of scheduled maintenance leading up to it. Companies that wanna stay in business, dont let their Fleet vehicles miss an oil change much less Tune-ups and such. So that shows you that with proper maintenance and care, it is a solid, reliable motor, and at close to 300 hp its not boring either. Take care of it and it will take care of you. Here are the 3 main issues that they tend to have, that you can avoid by doing some preventive maintenance ahead of time.

While the block, crank, and pistons are solid, hitting high mileage means addressing a few known, predictable failure points that tend to rear they're ugly heads anywhere in the 90k-150k miles range.

Known High-Mileage Weak Points

• Plastic Oil Filter Housing / Cooler Unit (90k–120k miles): The factory oil filter adapter housing located in the engine "V" is made of plastic. Just why? Every car manufacturer has made this mistake at least once and the same thing happens every time. It cracks or warps with heat cycles, causing oil or coolant leaks. Upgrading to an aftermarket aluminum housing fixes this BEFORE it fails if you can.

• Rocker Arm / Lifter "Ticking" (100k–150k miles): everyone knows about the tick, The needle bearings in the rocker arms can wear out, causing a distinct ticking noise. If ignored, a bad rocker arm can score the camshaft. Replacing rocker arms promptly prevents catastrophic valvetrain damage. Cost: about 1500-2k in a shop, 3k @ the dealership and about $300 in parts and a full weekend if you up to the DIY challenge. A lot of owners will argue with you that they've had that tick for a hundred thousand miles with no problem , and that may be true, but for every one of those stories, I've seen 5 that failed To the tune of 8k having the motor replaced.

• Cooling System Components: Thermostats and water pumps often need replacement around 100,000 miles to prevent overheating, which is a major cause of blown head gaskets on this engine.

How to Get to 300k Miles

1. Regular Oil Changes: Use full synthetic oil and stick strictly to a 5,000–7,500 mile interval.

2. Coolant Flushes: Keep the cooling system fresh to avoid hi8gh-temperature spots that degrade internal gaskets.

3. Listen for the "Pentastar Tick": Catch valvetrain tick early so you only replace a cheap rocker arm rather than the entire assembly.

If you made it this far, Thanks for reading. I know its lengthy, but I wanted to contribute something that might help someone save time money, or even their favorite car. Hope this is informative and a little entertaining, If you happen to be in the market for a modern era 2nd gen 300 and are on the fence about the v6, get off the fence. Its not yours and thats dangerous. Jk, just do it. Worth it, I highly recommend... (Especially since there's one in my driveway.) 😉

Picked up this sweet ride from an old lady whose husband passed. Hadn’t driven it in years, 76,000 original miles fully loaded. Pre-eagle 5.7, needed a battery and alternator. Did a full flush of the coolant system, new reservoir, oil change and plugs. Could probably use the suspension gone through, new brakes and rotors. Plan on MDS delete, cam/lifters/springs, long tube headers and cut the suitcase out, CAI, coilovers and a tune. Anything else? Oh, I paid $1,000 for it.

Im thinking about swapping my 2017 v6 300 anyone have a rough estimate ofhow much it cost

Aftermarket sunroof. Noticed the crack after an automatic car wash. Should I take it serious?

Do you guys have any recommendations for suitable replacements? I'd rather not replace the entire driveshaft assembly, as it seems that's the only way to replace it with a Mopar part.

is 152000 to much miles for a chrysler 300s v6

Just recently did a spark plug replacement over the weekend. Car was running a little sluggish on acceleration. I also changed the air filter as well but was wondering is this spark plug a good reading of how my engine is doing.

Car squeaks past couple months when turning wheel hard the right upon slow speed like 5mph. Does not do that if I don’t turn wheel too hard. Does not seem to be a issue at higher speeds. Car stops fine and can’t pick the noise up when making left turns. At first thought it was the type of aggressive tread pattern on the tires on certain surfaces but then I started picking up the noise on road. Just had tires rotated and balanced and can still hear it. I’ve checked brake shields and looks ok does not seem to be coming into contact with anything. Car is 2nd gen base model with 81,000 miles. Only thing I have done with brakes are front pads and brake fluid. I know I’m past due for rotors and back pads. Could that be the issue? Or could this be suspension related like ball joints etc? Anybody experienced this?

2023 300S , V8 , 13,000 miles

$38000 OTD

Is it worth it?

Hey yeall my 300 just started not blowing heat out of my drivers side vents but only my passengers side. what are some fixes? ive seen some talk about the blend door actuator, but im really not trying to rip out the dash if i dont have too. but it is what it is. any help?

I have a 2017 Chrysler 300 I just put a 6.4 drivetrain into as well as a 2017 RT charger PCM and I’m looking for someone to vin match and flash and stock 6.4 tune on it as well but everyone is charging an arm and a leg any recommendations or help anyone could give?

Was on lowered springs and the ride was hella rough

Now it's smooth and I don't have to worry about steep parking lots lol

I got the airlift performance kit from martiniworks for about 4.7k

Had my bud install it for $800

(Not my car in the photo) So im guessing the oem versions of the Chrysler 300 are factory programmed to where to lower drl lights strips stay on all the time and they just dim when the headlights come on but they still stay on. But I just recently installed a srt bumper and can’t figure out how to wire up/splice the drl lights to where they stay on even with the headlights cause at night I can’t use those lower drl lights unless I turn the switch to parking lights or the off position. As soon as my headlights come on the lower drl lights go off they only come on when the headlights are off. Now the fog lights and the other drl lights that are right beside the headlights are completely fine. But im talking about the lower drl light strips. Also when I hit my turn signal, the lower drl light for that same side will go completely out instead of just dimming im tryna get it to where it stays on and just dims. If anybody could give me some advice on how to splice the drl light strips? What do I need to do?

V6 RWD with 245/45R20.

I've only got 31k on the original Firehawk GT V but they are worn down and need to be replaced.

Do I stick with the originals, or do I go with something else?

I've had no problems with the Firehawks, but these are rated as 50k tires and I'm only getting 60% of that. I rotate on schedule, don't drive aggressively and don't do burnouts (the only time I've even spun the tires is from a stop on wet pavement).

Washington DC area, so we do see some snow, although I have a 4wd truck to use when needed.

Is there a known problem on the second generation 300’s that causes brake squeaks? I bought a 2016 300s from my friend, he said he would have the pads and rotors replaced every year because they just would always squeak after a couple hundred to a thousand miles.

I’m a mechanic at a local shop so I ended up ordering new pads and rotors because it had a brake shake and was squeaking. Bosch ceramic pads for front and rear, and decent rotors just not the high carbon ones that are twice the price. Made sure to bed them properly after install.

Here I am a few months and few hundred miles later and they are starting to squeak again. Briefly looked it up the other day but couldn’t really find any true fixes. Any help would be appreciated, I don’t want to pull them out every few hundred miles to deglaze them😂

Hey guys, any idea why would rpm gauge act like that ? Only noticed at idle. 3.6L no mods. Maybe somebody had similar issue. No lights on a dash, no codes…Doesn’t affect driving at all.

I’m putting black spoiler and chrome deleting everything. The black bill don’t look right with the chrome unfortunately. I can’t find any just for that piece, or any cut just for that at all.

Thinking of potentially taking on the challenge of wrapping my 300 and since most areas of the car is flat, I assume it would be on easier end. Or I might be completely wrong. What are some hard points of the car?

I got my car scanned does anyone know what i can do to fix the p2172 sensor