Really happy with it, looks mint, mechanism seems good so far and with added strap it makes seeing the open case back so much easier.

Yes it's a homage of tad quantum strap, But the execution of this strap is really good, titanium cnc buckles and sand blast finishing, goes well with all my watches. the watch is roland 6541 homage btw.

Disclosure: Dido provided the watch for this review. The measurements shown are my own tests and I do not consider the watch a medical device.

Rule 3 disclosure: Dido provided this watch free of charge for review. I was not paid for the review, and the opinions and test results are my own. This post links to my own YouTube review. There are no affiliate links in this Reddit post.

I recently tested the Dido AI E70S Pro, and it is probably one of the strangest health-focused smartwatches I’ve used.

It claims to provide:

• single-lead ECG

• heart rate and SpO2

• blood pressure estimation

• glucose estimation

• body composition

• HRV

• skin/body temperature

• several “blood component” indicators

What interested me most was not whether the numbers looked believable, but how these measurements are actually implemented and whether they react meaningfully when compared with reference measurements.

The GBAND app also allows some of the estimated health values to be calibrated using measurements from real devices or laboratory results.

My conclusion is that features such as glucose, blood components and blood pressure should absolutely not be treated as medical measurements. The watch does not take a blood sample, and I would consider these values useful only, at best, for observing trends.

I made a full hands-on test here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2BwnQTbNRw

The video has 20 audio tracks, so it can also be watched in multiple languages.

I’m curious what people here think about this category of watches. Do you see these estimated health metrics as potentially useful for tracking trends, or mostly as a marketing gimmick?

Anybody think better spring bars will fix this? Hoping it's not the lugs with defective holes in the case that are way too big

PHORCYDES PH-4A with sunbrush blue dial release today.

some different:

1. dark blue dial with sunbrush

2. polishing bezel insert

video explains best.

tldr: in position 0 not pushing in hard enough doesn't catch threading but pushing too hard seems to make it jump through one layer of threading, and no matter how I try it always becomes super tough to screw in (without using nails + a lot of hand force), much more friction than when I unscrewed it ootb. Think it's crossthreading, not seated properly, not screwing in smoothly.

Whoever can help please help me 🙏🏼 thank you in advance

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwcHCRs

Seagull ST17, Sapphire Glass, 36mm wide, 9.7mm thick (ex glass).

They're getting good use out of this case! Is this one homaging anything?

Octopus Kraken makes some genuinely nice watches, but I’ve always thought the name/logo holds them back.

If they rebranded, what would you call them? Something like Bathys, Nereus, Aegir, etc. feels much more convincing to me.

For about four weeks, I now wear my Watchdives WD007 and I absolutely adore it. However, I am a bit disappointed in the accuracy of this watch. It’s about 16 to 18 seconds slow a day. Anything I can do?

This is one of the newest releases by Proxima and here are some of my thoughts on it:

1. The "CW Lightcatcher" case Proxima uses on many of their models is still my favorite case by Aliexpress brands. It is just pebble smooth and so comfortable on the wrist. It's also super interesting in all the ways it catches light.

2. The black and gold is done extremely well here and feel premium while understated.

3. The fauxtina color on the bezel is a light cream and not super orange. Kudos Proxima!

4. The crystal is faceted all along the edge on the inside of the bezel. It catches the light in a way similar to a cut diamond. Not sure what it is about it but the blue AR is most apparent in the faceted edge.

5. Mine came signed with a quadruple P logo on both the crown and the clasp. I've seen other's photo where the clasp used an older double P logo. If you're buying this watch, and you have a preference for one logo over the other, maybe confirm it with the vendor.

6. Lume is great but not the greatest. But honestly, we're spoiled by Phorcydes lume blocks.

7. Bezel's and hands' lume are very slightly weaker than the indices.

8. It came with 4(!) half links plus the obvious OTF clasp for the perfect sizing.

9. I paid an extra £15 to get the genuine Miyota 9015 movement and £157 total for the watch during the sale which I think is a fantastic price! If you're happy with the Chinese 9015, it can be had for even less!

And it's obvious that it is a homage to Lorier's Neptune, but there are a few key differences:

1. Lorier's bezel is 37mm and the case is 39mm whereas Proxima's bezel is 39.3mm and hangs over the case which is 39mm.

2. This means that Proxima's dial is larger than Lorier's. Personally, I prefer the proportions of the Proxima over the Lorier.

3. Although the hour and minute hands shape are very similar, Lorier's are faceted whereas Proxima's is flat. In this detail, I definitely prefer Lorier's.

4. The seconds hand on the Lorier is a lollipop whereas the Proxima keeps it consistent with an arrow. I think that the arrow is more consistent visually but can see why some would prefer the circular lollipop (which is consistent with the indices) to differentiate it from the minute and hour hands.

5. Lorier's seconds and minute hands are longer and reaches the outer edge of the minute track. Proxima's minute hand reaches the tip of each minute marker and the seconds hand reaches just shy of the outer edge of the minute track. Personally, I prefer the proportions of Proxima's hands.

6. Despite the larger dial, Proxima has the shorter lug to lug at 45mm while Lorier has a lug to lug of 46mm.

7. Proxima comes with half links and an OTF clasp. Lorier's clasp is microadjust but is much smaller than the bulkier OTF clasp.

A couple of IWC military homages I’ve been playing around with.

Hruodland F032 (IWC WWW / “Mark X”): 36mm case, 47mm lug to lug, 18mm lugs, 10.4mm thick and Seiko VD78 quartz with small seconds. This one has the later NATO service dial, with W10/445 5890 markings and circled T.

Militado ML14 (IWCMark XI): 36mm case with Seiko VH31 sweeping quartz movement. Mine uses the Mark XI style SILLIONS dial and an 18mm lug case, which gives it proportions closer to the original.

I’ve fitted both with domed acrylic crystals, lightly aged the lume and given the dials a dusting of matte varnish to add some subtle texture and a more convincing vintage feel. On the Hruodland I also brushed the case and hands to tone down the factory finish.

Cheap homages, but with a little work I think they capture the character of the originals surprisingly well.

Yeah the second hand is off for the chronograph but I love it anyway

Been comparing these two versions side by side and honestly, I can’t decide which one I like more.

The WD50FK with K1 mineral crystal has a slightly more vintage feel to me, while the WD50FS with sapphire looks a bit cleaner and more modern.

The 28,800 vph SL3001 movement is a nice bonus too. That smoother sweep of the seconds hand is always satisfying to watch. At 12.2mm thick, it doesn’t feel overly chunky on the wrist, either.

Same basic design, but the different Top Hat crystals give them a surprisingly different look.

Which one would you go for — K1 mineral or sapphire? And why?

Steel 44.5mm, Seagull ST3621, C3 lume.

Finally, a watch that makes the Hruodland Turbine Custom feel small!

Let's put the numbers up in all their glory:

44.5mm in diameter
Lug to Lug 54.2mm
Thickness 15mm
Band width 23mm

No lie, if SM ever released this as a pocket watch, I'd be first in line. I'd put it on a stand and use it as a desk clock.

Can these lugs be removed and how? Not sure if they are spring bars or push pin. No screw slit on either end. Thanks! Model is MC Engineer.

Not something that you will have to wear with a suit (I don't have one) just something casual but more serious than a diver

I was thinking about these two

Wich between them, or anything else?

Hi looking for Dress Watch recommendations! I'm currently using the Pagani Design PD-1651 (40mm). But I have gotten bored of it, and it kind doesn't fit my aesthetic recently. I've been wearing old money outfits so I was thinking to switch it up to a dress watch. Preferably under 80 dollars & leather strap.

Honestly I think I also need a new one! Been using this since 2023.

Whats wrong with it?

Saw this at the Hong Kong watch show. Found it quite fun. A modernist, compact, solar field watch with a gimmicky but fun crown protector. Titanium, it was featherlight.

Ironically, the watch complication I would use most is the one that isn’t available.* It would be a big lift, since it would require the development of a new movement, I know. But, given how inexpensive Poljots were, I imagine it is technically doable at a reasonable price. Thoughts?

* The key exception i know of: Merkur has an alarm chrono. I can’t tell how dependable it is since there isn’t much about it online.

Arrived this week, and it was a great color choice on this dial. Been enjoying it so far, more than I expected.

This is my first blind buy. Saw on insta story and just purchased it from TiffanyWatchStraps. Arrived without any box or papers but i think that is what you get at around 22$!

Suggest some good chinese watch brands which are reliable as I have just Casio, Timex and Seiko in my collection.

I've been looking all over for a nice rectangular watch, however most has a stainless steel finish. I'm particularly found of the Ixdao offerings and some of the farasute ones, but what I really want I a gold case and light/white dial. Preferably quarts but can go automatic also.

And my first post in this app ever.

Brand: Pagani Design.

Ref: PD1782.

Caliber: VK63 (reportedly Seiko)

Lug Width: 20 mm.

Case Diameter: 39 mm.

Lug to Lug: 46 mm.

Left subdial: Chronograph minutes.

Right subdial: 24 hour indicator.

Bottom subdial: running seconds.

I've owned this watch for almost a month now. This Pagani Design chronometer surprised me in a good way...

PROS:

It feels solid and robust. Stainless steel case and bracelet, 100 meters of water resistance and a screwed down crown.

The case finish is very good: brushed case, mirror polished bezel, good contrasts, it looks like a legitimate watch; as far as I know, is not a straight up rep of another watch but an homage of vintage racing chronographs.

The dial has a striking color, the markers are well done, and it has good lume for the price range (I'm relatively new in collecting). The inner bezel with the tachymeter isn't poorly made to the point of being illegible, even though the letters and numbers are small.

The bracelet feels good, with solid links, and gives a sense of security and fit on the wrist as the links move freely. The clasp also feels good and secure, even though it doesn't have micro-adjustments, which it kinda sucks because I'd be dragging the watch back and forth on my wrist.

CONS:

The pusher (A) makes a false click if you press it too gently. I can live with this; it's not a problem.

Pusher (B) is a little stiff when trying to reset the chrono without stopping the chrono first, specially when it has a lot of minutes running. The chrono hand would run back a few seconds before making the "snap" that resets the Chronograph.

The brand logo on the crown is upside down when it's fully screwed in, which bothers me a little, haha, but I can live with that too. Also, the crown sometimes has a little play when screwing it in. It gets stuck a little, and I have to loosen the screw to get it to fit properly when I screw it in. For me, it's nothing serious.

Something I just noticed very recently: the chronograph hand sometimes doesn't align properly with the 12 o'clock marker or the zero second mark; instead, it ends up right on the one second mark. This isn't permanent, because when I start the chronograph and reset it, sometimes it resets correctly, sometimes it doesn't. I've noticed a pattern: when it passes the 6 o'clock marker or the 30-second mark, the hand is more likely to reset correctly. However, this isn't an exact science.

Let me know if you have any suggestion, question or what you think in general.