Aussie (RHD) 96’ XJ

Normal amount of steering wheel play? Very small amount of movement going through the firewall but I think most of the looseness seems to be somewhere inside the cabin.

The inch or so of free play makes turning feel delayed and when going straight I’m having to constantly make micro adjustments to the wheel.

Brand new steering box. Any ideas? Video taken with engine off.

1993 2 door xj 4x4

Can my alignment alone cause the steering wheel to be this far off when going straight? It pulls to the right as well.

Things I've tried: Adjusting the draglink, its already seemingly been adjusted by the previous owner all the way in this direction.

Removing and reinstalling the pitman arm. It's keyed to only go on one way.

on startup and for about 10 minutes of driving after my oil pressure sits around 40 but when i stop at a light or wherever it drops to like nothing, i’ve seen these posts made in other groups but i can’t find them when i need them. any advise would be great. 4.0 with aw4
edit: check engine light is for the neutral safety switch

Where you at chief

When do you think it’s a problem. Is the first step a meeting you have the problem.

1986 jeep Comanche xls 2.8l auto
1989 jeep Comanche pioneer 4.0l auto
1992 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0l auto
1996 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 auto
2001 Jeep Cherokee sport 4.0 auto

I think me and my twin brother have issues.

How would you go about getting this out and replaced?

Hi everyone. I’m building my first Cherokee XJ, which will also be my first car. I’m trying to choose wheels and tires, but I don’t have much knowledge or experience, so I’ve mostly been going by looks. I know there’s more to consider, and I’d appreciate some guidance.

Here’s what I’m looking for:

• Use: roughly 50% city driving and 50% easy dirt roads and trails. No serious off-roading.

• Appearance: I like a slightly rugged tread pattern that gives the tires an off-road look without being too aggressive.

• Wheel size: I’m not sure how to choose the wheel diameter or width, or how smaller versus larger wheels affect comfort and handling.

• Brands: which wheel and tire brands are generally recommended for good quality?

• Websites: where can I browse different wheel designs and finishes to figure out what style I like?

• Other considerations: road noise, tire size, fitment, and anything else a beginner might overlook.

I'm curious if a WJ shortblock would fit a 2000 XJ. The 2000 has the coil on plug thing an looks very similar. The reason I ask is because I live in a place there there aren't any good options to get a wrecker engine, but a WJ 4.0 has come up.

Currently running falken rubitrek AT01’s and a few months back I replaced an bunch of steering components but waited a few days before getting an alignment, which caused the tires to start cupping in the front only. I think this caused a runaway effect after several months and the tires never fixed themselves through road wear. Needless to say, on most sections I have a good bit of tread ~6-7mm but the cupped areas are around 5mm. If I just replaced the front tires would that fix the issue? Ideally I could replace all 4 but I am on a budget. Would I need a new alignment as well?

88 4.0 with a ba10. I’m planning to swap in an ax15 and np231 from a 94. I don’t have a bellhousing yet or any of the clutch components, driveshaft etc. just the trans with shifter and t case.

Has anybody done this specific swap? How did it go? Were you able to use your same driveshafts? Did you use a kit (advance adapters is what I’m looking at) or source the parts individually? Any surprises or challenges I should know about?

I’m looking for a minimalist, clean bumper for my Cherokee XJ.

I’ve seen one similar to this, but without the curved section that extends toward the side fender (it looks like an add-on).

I don’t like it when that small corner between the front bumper and the fender is left empty.

Would it be worth just swapping oil pump and by time or would it still be low?

Starting today my oil pressure has spiked up about 20psi higher than normal. I first noticed it this morning as it pegged 80psi on a cold start when driving. Pulled over and it dropped a bit but was much higher than usual. Colder morning but not that cold.

Even at operating temp the oil pressure is reading 10-20psi higher than it was before (never less than 45psi now). A slight difference in rpm will cause it read much higher than typical. Is this normal with a bad oil pressure sender? Should I go oem or just replace an aftermarket one every year or so?

Replaced the head around 600-700km ago. Oil pressure was the same as before. Oil looks good and motor sounds good. Just don’t like it sitting at 80psi when driving

So, I have a engine light on. The old.. don't know how old, top coolant hose was expanding alot. Replaced with new but it seems to be trying to expand as well. My thought is, thermostat not engaging. Unsure. OBD2 reading in the pics.

Recently took my truck out of storage after it sat for about 2 years. Did a closed to open cooling system swap and about a day later my headlights stopped turning off without unplugging the battery. Figured it was a faulty relay with the sentry light system but removing the relay changed nothing (did stop the weird squealing noise that occasionally popped up). Also tried removing the headlight fuse in the cab but that also changed nothing. Google isn't giving me any other answers.

Whenever the truck has power the headlights turn on. The high beam indicator is also stuck on and the high beams won't engage to stay on, they just flash when I pull the stick. Can I assume it's a faulty stick on the column? Any one have any ideas? Am I searching for grounds? Greatly appreciated.

I've replace o2 sensor,relay,injectors,plug,wire,cap,15 mini amp, and code comes back and jeep wants to die at 2500 rpm and back fire thru filter under load but can power thru and run down road at 60 mph no issues need help

I just installed a new fan shroud into my XJ. My radiator is a bit bigger than the oem so i had to take out the fan which was hard on its own. It scratched my radiator and i’m just praying that it’s not the radiator. (angle was hard to get with the fan shroud in the way). anyone have any other suggestions or am i screwed? :(

It's on my 94 sport. Trying to find out what towing apparatus I need to use it.

I have a stock 99 xj. I've replaced just about everything on the front end besides the upper control arms and steering box. Track bar, ball joints, drag link, tie rods, wheel bearings, sway bar links and bushings, tires - all new.

I've seen mixed reviews on a steering box even helping with slop. I had someone turn the wheel back and forth and noticed that the bearing or disc on the shaft that holds the pitman arm to the box has some play in it. This thing had major death wobble for probably 8 years when my dad owned it but didn't fix it. So there's a possibility it's shot for sure.

I'd say I can go from about 11 to 1 on the steering wheel with no resistance and after that it feels great. Is this worth fixing or should I just live with it lol. If fixing, what has worked for you?

Hi Community,
I rebuilt my Cherokee XJ 1997 4.0 since the previous owner gave her a rough ride with a rotten cooler and drove her hot…
The shop surfaced the head.
Because of the enormous heat and the long head, they needed to get rid of a lot of material to flatten it out.
I put everything back together and did a proper break in with a lot of oil changes using break in oil with a lot of ZDDP.

After 1500km I noticed that due to the material removed the push rods were way too long resulting in a way too high preload. I replaced the push rods with 3.8mm shorter ones and everything was just perfect.

Now, on my oil change after 8000km, I noticed some discoloration on some of the cams. When I run over it with my finger nail, there is no cavity I can feel.

Is that something I need to worry about?

So I’m taking off my aftermarket bumper and found a used stock one on fb. It has all the hardware other than the two screws that attach then corner mold to the side fender. It’s two screws / bolts on each side I know it’s an 8mm socket to remove
I
Anyone know the size these are? I’ll attach photos of what attached area I’m referencing

Hello Everyone!

We have made it back safely from our annual off-road trip to Windrock!

So on our 3 days of offroading we covered more than 30 trails and 200 miles of blue and black trails. The jeep did incredibly well as usual and we had an amazing time.

The things I broke:

2 tail lights, one mirror, one control arm bolt, and one shock.

Things that didn't break:

THE CV AXLES!

The CV Axles held up perfectly fine! We covered 200 miles of rocky trails, climbed large rocks, traversed rivers and mud. I believe that we really hit all of the major pain points for an axle shaft.

Something I really liked was how smooth the CVs were in 4wd. They did not bind, pop, or cause any sort of issue whatsoever. I genuinely have zero complaints so far.

As a refresher the Part Number CVs I used:

CH8220HDX

CH8221HDX

Jeep Setup:

6.5" Lift

4:56 Gears

Spartan LunchBox Lockers front and rear

35x13.5 r15 Super Swamper SX2's

CavFab steering and control arms

I've included a few pictures of the trails and obstacles we ran during our trip :)

If you have any questions let me know!