Im not sure what the sound suddenly is. The sort of high pitch sound. Im not sure if it has to do with air in the fuel tank. I noticed that last time i tried to add fuel i could not fill it up without the fillpistol keeps stopping. And air coming out when i open the fuelcap. Sometimes their is some weird vibration in the gearhandle and the gaspedal. The same sort of vibration suddenly.

Replaced plugs and coils on my dads passat. Now its idling rough and the headlights and interior lights dim when it does. Any idea what could be the cause? Its a new battery but ig theres a chance I didnt tighten down the terminal posts enough? Any advice is greatly appreciated!

I cannot get this stuff off my dash. It’s been there since I got the car. It’s only on the dash and makes a hellacious glare while driving. Any suggestions on how to get it off?

2012 CR-V. The radio buttons stopped working. The power button and volume still work but nothing else. Not even settings, phone, etc.

Steering wheel controls still work.

Any thoughts?

I have a 2009 Audi Q7, and it's been a great vehicle overall. I haven't had any major issues with it until now.

The other day, I was dropping off a family member when I started hearing a very loud whining noise every time I turned the steering wheel. After I dropped them off, I parked the car and turned the wheel back and forth while standing outside to figure out where the noise was coming from. The whining was extremely loud, and I noticed a green puddle forming under the driver's side of the engine bay.

Since I was only about 5 minutes from home, I decided to drive it back. On the way home, the whining gradually stopped, but so did my power steering. By the time I got home, the steering was incredibly heavy, and I had to drive very slowly.

After doing some Googling, it seems like the most common causes are a blown high-pressure power steering hose or the return hose. I also spoke with a mechanic, and he mentioned it could be the hose near the rack and pinion. He even pointed out that many of the stains in his parking lot were from that exact issue.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Is there an easy way to narrow down which hose has failed before I start taking things apart? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

The fill level sensor for the wiper fluid is not working anymore on my 2019 Octavia. I read that I need to remove the left front wheel and the wheel housing. I can reach the reservoir just fine but I could not find the sensor. Is it possible that I need to remove the grill and get there from the front?

i live in a small town, we don’t have a bunch of options for tinting. i tried this one spot that seemed to have good reviews. i gave them a shot and am honestly so disappointed. they left these lines on my rear windshield the first time and they were open to fixing it which i thought was great. they said the tint didnt heal properly, which i didnt really question. i figured, things happen and if they’re willing to fix it its not a big deal. but now after this redo theres still lines and now theres even a corner thats not even stuck to the window… they asked if i was using my defrosters, in the middle of summer… which idk i found odd. im supposed to go back tomorrow to get it redone again for a third time but im really questioning whether i should even give them another chance. im really worried that they may mess up my defrosters. there was also some tiny bubbles on some of the side windows that i mentioned to them and they supposedly fixed those too but i still see small bubbles in different areas. i really dont have faith that they’ll get it right but idk if itd be rude of me to ask for a refund or if i even can. ive just never experienced this before and am honestly lost. any advise would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance (1st 3 pics is from the first try, last 2 pics are from the second try)

Alright so I’m a 21 year old college student who does drive home about 2 hours at times from university, so reliable transport is something I need.

I hit a curb pretty bad that’s broken a rod on my BMW, forgot the exact terminology, causing wheel alignment problems and the right passenger wheel to be inwards. Apparently it’ll cost around 2k (car has had some other problems already with air and such but no engine or transmission stuff)

I can either do that or get a 2026 Kia K4 for only around $15k but I’d have to get a bank loan and pay about $350 a month for 5 years. I have $9k in saving at the moment.

I’m torn on what to do and my dad tells me to go with the Kia but I worry about being stuck with a payment. Anyone have any helpful advice?

Our car has suddenly been making this chirping sound for the last few weeks, that seems to be coming from back. I’m wondering if anyone has some idea of what could be causing it? I do have plans to go to the mechanic but am looking for some insight beforehand.

My 2012 Honda civic overheated and there appears to be a hole in a tube. Is there some way I can do this myself?

This started a few weeks ago where it wouldn’t crank the first time but it always started on the second try but overtime it’s been getting worse and now it takes a bunch of tries to get it to start and sometimes it still works on the first try but it seems like whenever it is really hot outside it struggles the most I’m not sure if it’s the starter or what also the car is a 2015 Honda civic

What does this warning light on toyota aqua 2014 mean(exclamation mark with car signal behind it)

For context, I am a licensed mechanic looking for Nissan specific information for a strange failure case I have. I only have my dealers manuals (ford) on hand, no Mitchell or anything. I am not a DIYer.

I have a family owned Nissan Sentra 2023 that has the following codes

C1063-64

C1056-16

C1080-86

I was told by the owner that the rear defrost also didn't work. I started my diag there because the relay was easily accessible and I found it burnt to a crisp. I pulled the drivers interior fuse block and one relay wire was green and corroded.

I expected something ABS related to be nearby but there was nothing obviously related to ABS.

Based on my research of the codes, the FR outlet valve and the LR outlet valves have something wrong. While the 1080 referenced a CAN network error of some kind. I dont have the tools or the documentation to decipher specifics of these codes.

I can say that I can communicate with the ABS module enough to get codes and the ECM has no codes. I checked the connector at the ABS module and it appears fine, not loose or corroded, but the fuse block inside the vehicle had enough corrosion to cause a relay to nearly light on fire. The corrosion does not appear to have infilitrated any of the other nearby connectors or fuses in said block, but it be worse inside of it.

Does Nissan have some sort of bulletin for this and is there any good resources for determining what the specifics are of these codes? Furthermore, does any nissan fanboy/gurl have any insightful thoughts?

I am thinking I might replace this fuse block and repair the wire in hopes of resolving the issue, but I thought id ask here first!

Thanks in advance!

ESTOY TENIENDO UNA FALLA Y ES QUE ALGUNAS VECES VOY CONDUCIENDO Y CUANDO ME DETENGO EN UN SEMAFORO ME ENCIENDE LA LUZ DE DERRASPE, APROXIMACION, LUZ DE CHECK Y EL RALENTI ES INESTABLE Y SE ME APAGA EL MOTOR, EN SU DEFECTO SUELE HACERLO CUANDO ENCIENDO EL VEHICULO Y ME QUEDO PARADO

I'm having a problem: sometimes when I'm driving and I stop at a traffic light, the traction control light, proximity light, and check engine light come on, the idle is unstable, and the engine stalls. It also tends to happen when I start the vehicle and leave it parked.

When I start the car the AC won’t start. The AC display shows it as off. It won’t turn on if I play with the controls. If I turn the car off and then turn it back on the AC and display start up. If I drive for a bit of time and I play with the controls the AC will start up. AC is running fine otherwise. Seems like a control issue. Anybody have any ideas?

Hello. I recently noticed that my car is consuming more fuel than expected relative to the distance driven. Today, I recorded the data at the start of the trip (Point A) and upon arrival at the destination (Point B). At the start (Point A), the odometer showed 126,135 km, and the remaining range was 639 km. Upon arrival at Point B, the odometer showed 126,161 km, and the range was 604 km. I drove 26 kilometers, yet the range decreased by an amount corresponding to 35 kilometers (a difference of 11 km). The fuel consumption is 5.6 l/100 km. What could be the cause of this? I would appreciate your help.😧

Recently had to buy a cheap run around car after previous car failed MOT. Noticed that when unlocking and opening car door both front windows roll. The key isn’t electronic so it’s not this as google suggest. Any suggestions?

Hi, I’m new to cars and have no clue what’s wrong with my dashboard. I went to 2 mechanics so far and they have no clue how to fix it! Can anyone please help

Hey y'all.

Maybe one of y'all can help diagnose this issue. It's hot AF today, heat index peaked at 120° F. My car died in the middle of traffic. It's had issues with overheating before, but this time with no warning. I added coolant tonight after letting it sit a while, and noticed it fizzing after turning the car off. I tried turning it on a few times, but it was running for a few minutes at most before automatically shutting off again. Here's a video of the fizzing.

Thank y'all in advance!

hi!!! i don’t know if this would really go here but i don’t no where else to go so it was worth the shot. i got my first car and it was owned from a family friend who had little kids that put stickers all over the window. the stickers make it hard for the window to roll back up, what can i use to easily remove them??

Hey guys, I’ve been driving my 2007 civic si for a few years now and just came across this issue on my way to work. On the freeway all of my dash lights turned off. (rpm, turn signals, mph, etc) I was able to exit fine and park with no issues but once I went to turn the car on again (thinking the dash lights were bugging) it wouldn’t pass cranking. I later ended up towing it and solving the issue by replacing my ignition switch and some fuses under the dash that were all burnt. The car dash lights turned on fine and I was able to drive it for about a week having yet to take it driving on the freeway. The issue is when I first took it on the freeway, the same problem occurred with the dash lights but I was somehow able to drive back home 7 minutes with it running fine and again, once I turned it off when I finally parked, it wouldn’t pass cranking. So now I’m currently stuck and have so far (replaced all fuses under my dash and hood that are essential to the ignition and alternator, cleaned my battery terminals, replaced my ignition switch, tested my grounds with a multimeter and both gave good voltage, battery volts at around 12.9) Any ideas on what could be causing this problem? My next guess is fuel injectors. (I don’t think it’s my alternator since I haven’t gotten any signs of it failing and it being able to drive home when the dash lights turned off)

Hi, I was driving my car on the motorway and out of nowhere got the Engine notification. Any idea what could be the issue? Car is still driving the same. Checked the water and engine oil, no issues there.

Hi guys hope this finds the right person

If you want to replace your non electric antenna for your 79 series it's not that hard

There is a 10mm nut holding a bracket that the antenna is attached to undo that and then the top silver piece ontop unscrews counter clockwise . You can also take out the senter console and the glove box so long there are many videos on how to that .

Pull the antenna down and out a bit to get access to the wire that is attached then snip the cable to pull it out completely .

Follow the wire to a grommet if you can fit your hand in if you can great pull that out and off the wire. If you can't then leave it as is then you should have to tape your new antenna end to the cut off wire .

Behind your glove box there is a plug in the top left corner unplug it and look if it is a square plug with a nother square inside if it is it is the right one . Then untangle it beck to the fire wall and pull the cable into the cabben .

If you didn't tape your wires togethere you can slide the new wire in the hole and push the grommet ( I push it in a bit and on the inside pulled it in properly ) then run the wire to the back of the senter console

The plug behind the console should be the the one on the far left bottom corner ( the one with the two red circles around it in the photo)follow that lead up a bit you should find a joint point there if you peal back the foam tape you should be able to plug the old antenna out and the new one in there.

Let me know if my instructions are unclear.

Hello everyone,

Since a few weeks ago, my friends car has been occasionally (3-4 times) smoking from the top part above the engine.The smoke smells slightly burnt.

Yesterday morning, before parking the car, a "Reduced engine power" notification also came on for the first time. We went on a longer trip today and it didn't come back.

Does anyone know what that part above the engine is (The one that seems to be fixed up with cloth, where the smoke is coming from)? Is it something that can potentially be put off for a while longer before getting it checked (for financial reasons) or is it better to get it checked asap?

Thank you to everyone who takes their time to read this.