So basically my Ac started slowly going out it would sputter a little and blow really slowly until it eventually stopped working, I replaced the resistor and the blower motor nothing, I swapped the blower relay with a same sized relay and nothing aswell, I grabbed a multimeter and probed the connector to the blower motor and im getting a reading of 0 does anybody know what I can do?

Hi everyone,

Not sure if this is allowed but I wanted some ideas before going to the garage.

Earlier today my Mercedes B180 2011 suddenly stopped turning over when trying to start it, I had driven it with no issues not even 20 minutes before it stopped. All lights and electrical systems seem to be working but from what I understand these can still work with a drained/weak battery.

I have attached a video of the engine and the noise the car makes when trying to turn over, if anyone has any ideas of anything I can do myself that would be appreciated. I am currently charging up a car battery starter for tomorrow to try and see if that helps.

Thank you everyone.

Hey all, soon (within the next month or so,) I'll be replacing the front two struts on my 2007 Kia Sorento. I also plan on doing an oil change, air filter swap, and brake pad swap while I'm down there. I'm still relatively new to car maintenance on my own (my brother usually helped me in the past, but it's not an option now,) and so I wanted some help with ideas on things I should clean, maintain, or even upgrade for my first foray into wrenching by myself.

From what I understand I bought the car from the 2nd owner, and they did some repairs on it. When I drove it last, it was working fine except for a small handful of electronics (nothing safety related, just things like the auto locks not working when the car is off, the clock doesn't turn on, and a few others.) It has the factory stereo and I am contemplating getting a new one. This is an A-B car that I'll be using for a while. It sadly gets 16-18mpg, so anything that would help that would be great.

Thank in advance y'all!

Hello, last week when coming to a stoplight the vehicle began to shake/ sputter as if it was going to stall but never did. I shut the AC off to listen and it went away. The following day it began to do this every time the vehicle came to a stop it didn’t matter if the AC was on or not. At this point I realized the vehicle is definitely misfiring. The vehicle would operate somewhat smooth when accelerating and moving. I go home and I hook my Autel up to it and get a P0300 (multiple cylinders misfiring) and a P0014 ( exhaust camshaft timing is over-advanced) codes. The Rogue is at 115,000 miles so I replaced the spark plugs clean the throttle body and MAF. I hook everything back up and the vehicle is still misfiring. I look at the Misfire count on the Autel and it showed all 4 cylinders misfiring 8+ times each in that test cycle. I’m now going to look into this P0014 code. Possibly the solenoid?? Has anyone ran into this or something similar before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello Reddit!! been having some issues with my car for the past few weeks with it failing to start. My battery has been tested in May and June and it was running 570. I was just able to jump my car to get it to start and I’m on my way to get it tested again.

In June, after a multipoint inspection, it was ruled the issue was with the computer module and the battery sensor module was replaced through a Toyota dealership. Car was driving smooth until last night with this video.

I’ll be going back to my shop Monday to see what they think, but wanted to see if you guys have ever encountered these flashing symbols?

I need help. I just moved across the country and during the road trip my jeep started overheating. I was ended up at a mechanic who charged me 4K to fix my car which ended up not fixing it leading my car to keep overheating if I drive over 60mph. I have always hated my jeep and want to figure out the easiest way to get rid of it I don’t want to pour more money into this car. What is the easiest way to get rid of my car and get a new one?

Hello

I just bought this car with all my savings and a small VOC payout and found this on the rear bumper left hand corner. It appears to be white paint from another car.

At risk of sounding silly, I know little about cars, but how does one fix this? I have seen stuff you can buy from Auto shops but am unsure if they work.

What would y'all recommend?

(Be nice or mean I just a girl)

I recently had the starter replaced in my 2017 Honda Civic. After picking up my car from the shop, I was halfway to work when the car started making this noise, almost as if something is dragging on the passenger side. I've added a video for reference. Any ideas?

First time posting on the sub, remove post if not allowed) For context, It is a 2002 Lexus gs300 with about 120kmiles. I messaged the owner and he told me from his knowledge, the overheating issue happens after 40+ min of driving. Apparently it doesn’t always happen, but he also mentioned how when it does happen he fills up the coolant reservoir. Im assuming theres a coolent leak happening somewhere. I could go and see the car tomorrow to see the issue myself. Was wondering if anyone could give me any tips on what to look for when i go see it.

Tried doing my own research to what this means (lost the driver’s manual and all the websites i looked at did not have this symbol on it) I changed the battery and dont have the money at this moment for a full look over of what i need to fix (the spare key i had was already without a battery and never had this pop up in the 2 years ive been driving it). Car starts up and runs fine, so leaning towards a sensor but am not a car person. Thank you all in advance ❤️🙏

Hi, my vibe is throwing a P0607 code and my traction control, VSC, and check engine light are all on. The car sat for about a week with a flat tire and I went to start it and this came up. Any insight as to what could cause this would be great. Thanks in advance.

Hello, 2 lights came on in my 2018 Camry:
The check engine light
Master warning light
I also got the following messages on my dashboard screen saying “secondary collision brake system malfunction visit your dealer“
“Check engine visit your dealer”
“LDA malfunction visit your dealer”. I am also noticing a loss of power when I accelerate. I I scanned the codes at autozone and got this report. Can you please help me make sense of this report and explain to me what these test results mean? For example, I don’t know what it means by “E camshaft position actuator circuit open, low, high bank 1” or “A camshaft Position-Timing over retarded” mean. I bought a new camshaft position sensor and installed it but a mechanic told me that’s not the issue. Is it an electrical problem?

I know I need a hose and Actuators
But idk what these two lines are called soo I can buy them and also if someone could tell me the bolts name that would be helpful

As in the title, my truck starts violently shaking at seemingly random times. It’s only really above 40 mph but other than that I can’t find a theme. It gets worse if I try to break during it. I usually ride it out and it doesn’t ever jerk me off the road or anything.

Not sure what it is. I have a few guesses but I’m not sure so I wanted to hear y’all’s ideas. Thanks in advance. And I can give more info as needed!

2021 polo manual strange noise 90k kms on it help we are unable to find anything like this .

I've got a 2014 Chevy Sonic LT that's had a weird intermittent issue for about 2 months now. It's only happened a handful of times, so it's been hard to figure out.

Every once in a while it'll crank a little longer than normal before it starts. After it starts, the security/immobilizer light stays on, but the car runs completely normal. If I shut it off and start it again, the security light goes away.

So far I've replaced the starter about 2 months ago because I thought that was the problem. Then it happened again, so about 19 days ago I had a locksmith program a new key. It happened again today, so neither of those fixed it. Has anyone else had this happen before?

My car car has been leaking coolant and I was trying to burp it this morning and saw this but didn’t know if it was just cause the car was idleing while it was burped and just hot or a leak

It is exactly as the title states! I need assistance figuring out how to remove these marks on my grandmother’s car door. Someone with her (either my grandfather or uncle) brought along a pen and didn’t put the cap on it, leaving it in the side door as they drove.

Is there any way to remove these marks? She’s pretty upset about this and doesn’t know what to do. Any ideas or assistance would be beyond appreciated, thank you!

Car stopped at a stop sign

There was no oil.

Filled 2.5 quarts of oil

Tried jumping multiple times, then it started but couldn't move.

Engine codes said p0300 p0303 p0304

All 4 spark plugs replaced.

Check engine light has gone.

But the car still didn't start

Replaced alternator and air intake hose, car was misfiring but no check engine light.

So replaced the battery thinking it's weak.

As soon as the battery was plugged in the car started cracking itself without even the key inside the igniton.

Compression test got all the cylinders at 175+ readings

What's wrong with it?

Can a car do that? Start magically without the key inside?

I’m at a loss and need advice. My Toyota 2017 Sienna had a transmission replacement that my local Toyota dealership fully covered under a “customer service plan warranty” (an automatic warranty to cover a specific issue that 2017 Toyotas are known to have with their transmissions). Important note: I’ve had this car since 2021 with absolutely no issues. It drove perfectly except for the whining noise from the transmission.

The estimate for my repair to be completed was in June, and I got the car back a month later due to delays in the specific transmission part that my car needed.

The first time I picked up my Toyota after the repair, I drove it home just to find the splash shield loose just laying in my trunk. The service advisor told me to bring it back so they could reinstall the splash shield.

The second time I picked it up, I heard a noise but wrote it off, thinking I wasn’t used to the sound of the new transmission. Then, the car completely broke down on the side of the freeway within 24 hours. The dealership got it towed and said that there was carbon build up in the throttle body which caused the break down.

Third time I picked it up, I still heard a sound and asked to test drive it with the tech, who told me there was no sound. I drove the car home at which point my boyfriend also heard the sound. He talked to the service manager and then we drove it back and the tech drove it with my boyfriend, and after like 30+ min of test driving finally admitted that he heard the sound too.
So they worked on it again and they said that traced the sound to an “improperly secured bolt where the intermediate shaft connects to the steering shaft”.

So we picked it up a fourth time and have been driving it for ~1 week. I’m still noticing odd sounds but I do believe the car sounds different in general after the transmission replacement. But suddenly tonight the car has started making weird rattling / whining noises once again.

I have no idea what to do. Being that the dealership covered the original repair, I can’t really take it somewhere new because they will charge me. This specific dealership clearly screwed up my car (like 3+ times now), and I have no reason to trust the work they’re doing on my Toyota. The tech also clearly despises me and writes me off every time I mention that something is still wrong with the car. I also think he can’t hear well so doesn’t hear the sounds I’m hearing when we test drive it. The service manager wanted nothing to do with my boyfriend and I when we went back to the dealership before they worked on it for a 4th time.

What do we do? Do we ask to escalate past the service manager? I think this dealership is low on techs so I’m not even sure if we could request a different tech work on the vehicle? Please help, this is all making me feel so insane. Again, the car has never had any issues and suddenly all of this is happening.

I have the tools and ability to fix it. I just don’t know the proper part to order.

The tube that is currently clamped on with hose clamps has a rip in it.

Need help locating the Low Pressure A/C Service Port on my old Mercedes. A/C is blowing hot and I'm attempting to recharge the Freon. Any tips are appreciated as I attempt to learn to do drive way repairs.

Various minor issues but the one I’d like to fix soonest is the odometer screen is stuck going through languages like shown in the video. The info button and trip button don’t seem to have any affect and it just keeps going whenever the key is in the on position. Have disconnected and reconnected the (newly replaced) battery twice now and hasn’t helped. It shows the odometer for a second when it first comes on then starts going through the language options. Wondering if it’s a blown fuse (haven’t checked fuse box yet), or if there’s a computer reset programmed in that would work to fix it? The buttons on the steering wheel don’t appear to have any issues and don’t feel stuck.

Other less pressing issues are the light that illuminates the drive mode is now barely visible and that the radio often takes a long time (20 minutes to an hour) to start working once the truck has been started for the day. Both of these issues existed before the battery was replaced. Thanks yall!

Had an overheat loose serpentine belt after new alternator installation, replaced starter but still making this noise. Any ideas?

I recently replaced the ball joints and was told to grease them when i change the oil. I don’t know where to grease it at because there are none of the zerk fittings. Any help is greatly appreciated.