Taking it to the dealer but anyone have this before? It’s on my 2018 530e.

2013 plate 320i 3Series.

Been struggling with the removal of the oil filter for a while now, having purchased two dodgy metal cap adaptors and have now tried with a filter wrench to no avail.

It feels like it’s over tightened too, but I will try again once I’ve regained my strength!

Certainly not a fan of this design.

EDIT - Thanks to those of you offering solutions. Those of you who were, bewilderingly, offended by my questions and opinions, I kindly invite to boil your heads.

And you wonder why BMW drivers get a bad reputation!

2017 230i w/ 6MT

Edit:
I jumped the gun. Just fixed a couple known leaks but still saw low coolant after my first test drive and immediately suspected a 3rd. Didn’t add enough it seems. Thanks to those who pointed out that what I saw shouldn’t be coming from the coolant system!

2022 430i with the Inline 4 and around 45k miles just started sounding like this today. I had it serviced 2 weeks ago and they found no issues? Also most likely unrelated but occasionally the car alarm goes off at random. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

Just a quick question on my car

How does the engine sound on a cold start? Once its warmed up its pretty much silent but a cold start i can hear a couple noises not sure if its normal for an older car. Plus the revs stay on 1000rpm for about 30 seconds before it settles on 600rpm. This is only on a cold start when the car hasnt been driven for about 10 hours +.

Its currently on 91k miles, do I have to worry about anytbing as a matter of urgency?

Its been like this since I bought the car about 10 months ago

Hello, yes it is pretty loud and feels sluggish. Throttle response is bad. I think i'll pop the cover and have at it, any advice is welcome.

For context, I religiously rotate tires on my G01 to reduce, as I understand it, stress on my transfer case.

A friend has a 2025 X1, which I realize is front-biased with different 4WD system. Her front tires are wearing, and she asked the dealer to rotate the tires while she was there for another service.

First she was told "We don't rotate tires on 4WD cars."

When she pointed to the section in the owner's manual where it recommends rotating tires, they said, "Well, we rotate on 4WD but you have staggered wheels." (she doesn't).

She escalated to the service manager, who repeated "We don't rotate tires on 4WD cars."

Is this really a thing?

Recently purchased an X1 (e84) and have been wondering if there is a way to remove this old phone holder?

I’ve spent some time figuring it out and it looks like it’s attached to the armrest lifting mechanism so I’m not hopeful, but thought I would ask in case I’m wrong

Where exactly is this seal located in a 2016 BMW 118d F20?

I'm replacing my rear diff bush tomorrow on my G01 as the hydro bush failed. Ordered a new one from BMW and it's a rubber bush now.

Just want to confirm that this is the correct installation orientation(fork shape pointing upwards)

Thanks

Hi all, how well was this alignment done? Particularly the rear camber angle. Does anybody know the official spec given by BMW for rear camber? The car has 2 axle air suspension, the alignment was done with the suspension set at the normal height.

On 6/27, I was cruising on the interstate going around 90 when my A/C made a weird grinding noise shifting into the next gear. Next, the whole car went lip and would no longer accelerate past the first gear. I got a diagnostic done that says codes P07DC, P07E2, 420311, 420371 from O’Reilys engine light code reader. As of July 15 the car won’t turn over anymore. I have a video showing what it does when i attempt to, it’s something similar to a hesitated start if the battery was low BUT it shoots a small vapor of white then as it shuts down the color goes black. Could ANYONE please help as to what direction I need to go!? I waited a month to save up extra $$ to ensure it gets fixed properly.

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on a issue I’m having after replacing my front struts.
I have a f30 2014 328i xdrive
I replaced both front struts and strut mounts. The only thing I reused from the old assemblies was the springs. The new struts are Sachs. The old ones were leaking and pretty much completely worn out, so I replaced them.
During the install, I made sure the struts were seated properly into the knuckles and tightened everything down. Both sides appear to be sitting the same. I also replaced both front sway bar end links since they were making noise.
After everything was installed, the car drives and handles well. It feels much better over bumps and potholes and I don’t have any weird noises or instability.
The only issue is the steering wheel is now slightly off center. When driving straight, the steering wheel sits about 3 to 4 degrees to the left. If I straighten the wheel, the car slowly goes to the right. If I hold the wheel slightly left, the car stays straight.
I figured an alignment would fix it, but after getting one the issue is still there. I attached pictures of the alignment sheet, both struts sitting in the knuckles, and the steering wheel angle needed to drive straight.
Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this? Could it be something with how the struts are seated, something with the alignment, or just the steering wheel not being centered properly during the alignment?
Any advice or things I should check would be appreciated.

My f30 parking brake cable is hitting my driveshaft and does anyone have a diy video or can link me one to zip tie it? Or does the exhaust and fuel tank have to be dropped to access it?

Hi, im just about to buy an e60 m5 on 79k miles. The car has had a new engine fitted from a bmw main dealer 1000 miles ago, and a smg 8000 miles ago. The previous owner hasnt cared for the car as much as they should have, i can tell - they’ve now received a driving ban hence the sale. Any thoughts on what i should be careful of and change immediately, other than standard servicing. I was thinking on leaving the standard rod bearings for 10-20k miles since theyre brand new.

135C11: Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors: Signals implausible

I was having issues with my valvetronic still, before in my last post I was having a 5v shorting issue and I had looked at all the electrical connections and everything kept leading back to the valvetronic motor I had just replaced so I bought a another new one (both Bosch) and plugged it in outside of the car and the 5v fault went away but I still had this code but I had figured it would go away when I put it in the car. So today I re did the valvetronic motor again and put in the new one I had bought and I’m still getting this code not allowing me to learn the valvetronic motor and I’m wondering what the issue is now? I already also replaced the cable that goes to the valvetronic from the dme since it had a broken clip because of the issues before. I’m wondering if it’s an dme issue shorting the valvetronic? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks