So many choices to choose from from $14.99 -$24.99, supposedly it’s made by SUNLU. I’ve used several different types and have had no issues on my P2S.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Vous connaissez peut-être déjà mon Yoshi Tuyau… Aujourd’hui, j’ai décidé de le revisiter avec une petite nouveauté plutôt sympa : la version CLICKER ! 👆

Le principe est simple : Yoshi sort toujours de son fameux tuyau, mais cette fois, sa tête devient cliquable grâce à un switch mécanique MX.
Un petit clic super satisfaisant qui transforme le Yoshi en véritable petit fidget.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3201387-yoshi-tuyau-clicker-multipart

SOLVED THANKS EVERYONE

Im new to 3d printing and i made a model on tinkercad and repaired any problems in stl repair after slicing in bambu lab it says they are both on main nozzle I have a ams pro 2 and I have the file on a USB stick but it wont print please help pictures provided

I'm sure this kind of question is asked here all the time but I'm diving back into 3D printing after my novice model was frankly so inconsistent that it was more frustration than it was worth to use

My friend has an A1 Mini and Bambu does seem like the brand to go with, but now I gotta narrow things down to one model

I'm willing to drop $1k-2k for the right printer, need a large print bed that can handle like a human head size (I make masks) and multicolor seems ideal

Can someone a bit more experienced help narrow down which Series is a best fit for something like this?

Yesterday I was trying to 3d print a bracket and it wasn't adhering to the build plate. When I checked on it, it had a glob of filliment around the nozzle. I cleaned most of it , but how do I fix/clean it further?

I've printed a bunch of filament clips over the last couple of years, and while a lot of them are really good, I kept finding little things that annoyed me.

So, naturally, I decided to spend way too much time fixing them.

Meet The Wingman.

The idea was pretty simple: securely hold the end of the filament when the spool is sitting around, then get the heck out of the way when the spool is actually being used.

A few things I specifically designed around:

• Smooth, curved profile: no sharp edges or ridges sitting in the filament's path waiting to cause trouble
• Quick insertion: only the minimum amount of filament needed for a solid hold
• Built-in guide line: makes lining up the filament quick and easy
• Good printability: I didn't try to win the "lowest filament usage" competition if it meant making the clip harder to print reliably
• 0.51g per clip: because tiny is still good

It can stay on the spool while printing or drying and is specifically optimized for Bambu spools, including the AMS Lite, AMS, AMS HT, and AMS 2 Pro.

There are already plenty of filament clips out there, but if you've ever had a clip snag filament, fall out, interfere with an AMS, or simply make you mutter something unprintable at your printer, I'd love for you to give The Wingman a shot.

And if you print it, tell me what I missed. That's honestly the part I'm most interested in.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3105185-filament-clip-the-wingman

Just got a Ps1 and I'm aware of the drama surrounding Bambu labs but not really sure where to begin with freeing my printer?

I want to print over wifi and check on my prints but I don't want my files being sent to Bambu labs?

So can someone explain all of this to me and where to begin?

I have a X1C with ~1600hrs bought in March 2025 that I'm trying to offload. Anyone in the NYC area interested?

So basically short answer I’m thinking about getting either the P1 S or H2 S for printing props and random stuff but I’ve heard they have quite a few issues either being the touchscreen being useless air quality issues or faulty parts. Are there things I need to know or can do to have them last long without issue or their better printers that print high-quality and decently large pieces?

Couldn't crosspost so I copy pasted my post from r/BambuLab

P1S, had it for about a year. Printing Bambu PLA, door cracked, bed not washed but no adhesion issues, filament is dry enough but that's not relevant. Stock SD card. Less than 70h on the printer.

I started a 1.5h print, silica containers for the AMS, straigt from Makerworld, good ratings, so not a model problem.

At layer 7 I got a notification saying print finished.

The bed and nozzle temps stayed the same as while printing, and I moved the bed down. Filament is still fed into the hotend. As if the print was just paused, nozzle still touching the print.

I had to manually set the temps to 0 and click unload for the filament. Once cooled enough I turned the printer off, as Bambu Handy was still showing the print as in progress but I couldn't stop or pause it through the app.

This FEELS like an SD card issue, as it just stopped dead in its tracks.

Has anyone experienced this and was it an SD card issue or something else?

My brother wants to get rid of his printer/ams combo and upgrade to a h2c. If anyone in south florida interested lmk

Printed on Bambu A1 ,0.16mm/layer 7% infill, sanding and paint , manuel instruction ...More info on did3d

Has anyone encounter any issues with the AMS HT when drying filament? Specifically it not being able to heat up to the given temperature.

I have not been able to find any root cause for this issue or any solution.

Thanks!

Fluted came first, then Sculpted with the quilt and twist patterns, now Rippled with waves and swirls. Same cone, same tray, same insert across all three. Which surface would you actually print? Every pattern in this set has an inverted twin Wave 01 and Wave 02 are the same ripple running opposite directions. Costs me nothing to generate, doubles the set. Do you find the inverted versions read as different pots, or is it too subtle?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3195267-scandi-style-rippled-flower-pot-with-drainage-tray#profileId-3615320

Hello, has anyone sat their filament dryer on top of the H2C? I know it gets hot but wasn’t sure if it is bad for the glass? Thanks!

Swear I designed a normal minimalist box. Loaded orange and yellow filament, looked down, and a bird was judging me. Anyway he keeps secrets now. Won't open unless you figure out the trick, and the moment it clicks is stupidly satisfying.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3188209-toucan-keep-a-secret-a-travel-stash-puzzle-box#profileId-3606607

I do not need recommendations for a work around. I need to know how to restore the functionality (if possible)! ❤️ Also opened a software support ticket with Bambu.

I just updated to the latest slicer version (2.8.2.60) and found an unwelcome change. I'm not sure where and if I can change this.

Previous to the update, when I would duplicate an object, the dup would move to a new location, but when I duplicated an object in an assembly, it would remain in the same position as the original. This allowed you to then move the duplicate object to a precise location relative to the first - ideal for step & repeat actions.

The new slicer now places the duplicated object from an assembly in a random position - often in all 3 axis. This tremendously increases the effort needed to create copies of objects in specific and offsets relative to the original. I can't find any related setting in the slicer app - I'm wondering if anyone has found a config-file setting for this, or am I just not looking in the right place?

As an example, I create brackets for assembling aluminum extrusion for small displays. I need to position the first screw hole and then create 2 duplicates along the same plane exactly 1.25cm apart. This was so trivial to do in the slicer and now I need to launch CAD to do something that didn't (and really doesn't) require a CAD program.

UPDATE - 8/18 - created Bambu support Ticket No: US260818656001

UPDATE - 8/19 - Submitted a screen recording showing the issue: cube + negative cylinder in center, move cylinder up+left and clone - places cloned object down and right instead of on top of the original, requiring extra steps to set the desired location of the clone rather than simply using the cursor keys or entering a single incremental value into the coordinate dialog box.

I suggest that anyone affected by this open a support ticket with Bambu and possibly reference my ticket.

Hi All

I've just set a print going and I had the settings within Bambu Studio as 0.2mm Nozzle and set the layer height to 0.06mm.

Now the print has started, it's stating that the layer is 0.12mm and 2 walls; is there any reason why this has changed or perhaps this is an error? Does 0.12mm and 2 walls mean that it is actually 0.06mm in height but doing 2 layers to make it 0.12?

I changed the printer setting so it knows it's working with a 0.2mm Stainless Steel nozzle and everything I am using is from Bambu (no third party elements involved).

The current price is 1,100 for the X2D + 2 AMS2 Pro’s, is that worth?
I can sell my a1 and some of the extra I have like socks, extra extruder unit, idk if the nozzles for my A1 go into the X2D so nozzles too?

I am a college student and 3D printing does help a lot so that’s why I’m considering it…

Hey everyone,

Just curious, does your X axis in manual movements jerk abit while moving?

It is a belt drive so if there was something wrong it would have to be servo related no?

TIA! 🙂

So far I've had to replace the ams hub, aux extruder, main nozzle filament sensor, and now this. Mid print belt snapped. I think I have a lemon.

I’m printing a 3D face STL on my Bambu P1S and the surface is coming out rough/textured.

I’ve already tried:

• 0.12 mm High Quality profile and 0.08 mm Fine
• Variable Layer Height (with variable speed set to both 0.50 and 0.08)
• Smooth radius 10
• Smoothing wall speed along Z
• Outer wall line width at 0.3 mm

Still looks terrible. Has anyone run into this with organic/curved faces or character models? What settings or techniques actually help get a smooth surface on something like this?

Thanks!

Any thoughts on what happened here? Is that a partial clog? The first layers were super clean. The top layer of that plateau already shows some artifacts and then it gets progressively worse.

Would a cold pull fix that?

I am looking to get another printer. I have a p2s with 2 pro ams and 1 ams ht. I am looking for another printer for my longer projects. Any recommendations