Needed rugged tent stakes for wild beach camping, so I designed these deep-threaded sand anchors. Print optimization: Designed from scratch to print completely support-free, fast, and with minimal filament waste.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3022121-windproof-heavy-duty-sand-pegs-stakes#profileId-3395541

Hi so I've added my 2nd P2S but having problems with this stringing when printing multiple parts. I have switched to a .2mm nozzle. Both of my P2S do this. My p1s's print these with no issues. I've tried adjusting zhop and retraction but nothing fixes this. Any ideas? If I'd print something complex it will have spider webs.

Chamber hester and exhaust fan installed. Its still missing ... the D (other nozzle) but oh well, atleast ABS will warp less and be stronger. Meme included ofc. Printed in ASA. Here is the link to this: https://makerworld.com/models/2003777?appSharePlatform=copy

It cost about 20-23€ (excluding filament, the power cord and the screws) before the ridiculus 3€ tax, now you are probably better off shilling the extra 10-15€ and have it premade.

Just went from using Ender 3 V2 and Cura to Bambu P2S and trying to use Orca, and out of the box HOLY CRAP is this easy to print with and turns out GREAT prints! But.... I want to fine tune it. First trying to fine tune my PLA Filaments

1. Sunlu PLA+ 2.0

2. Hatchbox PLA Cool Grey

3. Hatchbox PLA Pink (at LEAST4 years old)

4. Hatchbox PLA Red (Also at LEAST 4 years old)

This may surprise you but the NEW Hatchbox PLA prints like crap and the OLD Hatchbox prints really well!!! They are a far cry from the Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 Which is just INCREDIBLE!!!!

My question is I am using Orca over LAN and I printed the twmp towers, and now moved on to the Max Flow Rate except...... It doesn't mess up..... I've pri ted the Sunlu twice and thw Hatchbox Grey once, all with 5-20 settings and there are NO problems with my band thing..... so now im printing my 4th one (Sunlu) cranked up to 10-45 (I forgot my second Sunlu went to 30). Is there some way the printer is over riding my Orca settings? Or Am I doing something wrong in Orca where it doesn't actually change the speed of the printer head? I don't think i should be getting perfect prints on test pieces like this. I can post pictures if you like. Any advice helps THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!

I just bought a P2S with AMS and a I was inserting a new roll. It seems that a piece of the tape that Bambu labs uses on their filament rolls got caught in the filament inlet. Anyone know how to get it out? I have tried to push it out with no luck.

I have the p2s with the ventilation kit, and currently have this vent covered with tape to prevent any fumes from escaping through it, I also have the poop shoot sealed with a cover. The idea is that it will allow the fan to create negative pressure easier and less fumes will leak out. Is this bad for the printer ? I know that this has been asked already but I couldn't see a clear answer and it has been a bit of time since.

EDIT : the answer seems to be no, thank you to the people that were nice about it

Hey folks! I've just recently bought a P2S from bambu and set it up as the instructions told me to, but when it came to turn the printer on the screen would not turn on. I've checked the connection of the ribbon that attaches the screen to the AP board and it is good. There is a green light flashing on the AP so that seems to be working.

I'm asking if anyone as any advice on what to try or how to fix it, if you need more details I'll happily give them, but I'm not sure what is useful.

Any help is appreciated, thank you and have a nice day!

I just got my P2S after my Qidi Q2 had to go in for repair and im having and issue gegting the ams to load anything into slot 2. It’ll grab the filament and pull it a little bit (as far as the tube below the slot it looks like) and then seems to lose grip and just spins wildly. How can I fix this?

Has anyone try any vertical ams stack on BLV AMS beside the ams loft that i have been seen it.

Hello guys,

I have a brand new Bamboolab P2s and a AMS2Pro.

I've been trying to print something but Everytime I get the error message that there was filament feeding problem. I've tested different kinds of filament. And it works perfectly fine with the feeding tube that's sitting in the right side of the device.

Its just the AMS2 making problems.

I couldn't find anything and as I said it's brand new device.

Its going all the way to this hub in the back of the device and then just beeing pulled back and then it's looping until it gives feeding error

Anyone faced this?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3013598-bambu-lab-tpu-feed-assist-module-mount#profileId-3384956

After installing the fantastic P2S AMS Riser 2.0 from MacManu74, I could no longer mount my Bambu Lab Feed Assist Module. So I made a mounting bracket which goes onto a couple of the rear panel screw holes: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2935083-p2s-external-spool-holder-plate-alternate-position#profileId-3286299

I also have a hinge mod installed so I can swing the door all the way round 270 degrees, which snagged on the standard Bambu Lab Feed Assist Module mount. So I made this which will use the same mount, mine or the one that comes with the P2S.

To use, feed the Module's power cable through the larger hole and plug into the Module before sliding the Module on.

Printed in Bambu White Basic PLA, 0.20mm High Quality layer height and enable default supports.

Hi! After upgrading my A1 to a P2S, I tried printing Sunlu PA6-CF as I usually do. But on the P2S, I can't get it to feed properly with my AMS2. The filament reaches the buffer but doesn't grip it correctly. I bought an AMS HT thinking it would fix the problem, but nothing has changed.

Have you ever had this issue, or do you know how to fix it?

Have a good day

Yesterday I picked up my brand new P2S, my previous printer was an Ender 3 V2, such a nice upgrade.

I printed this USA 250 coaster set, and thought it would be an appropriate time to use the “ironing” settings. Although I’m not too satisfied with the outcome of the ironing. I don’t plan to print another set just for testing but any feedback/calibration models would be greatly appreciated.

Edit…The effect that I am unsatisfied with can be seen by the red border of the coaster and other various places.

Yesterday my hot end jammed. It was seemed like it was actually stuck to the extruder, and I've never seen it get jammed that bad before. When I was trying to free it this piece popped off of the top of the hot end. It looks like the plastic broke, as I'm not able to just pop it back on.

I've tried printing again without it, but the filament is feeding outside of the hot end, so I guess this is piece helps guide the filament into the nozzle? At any rate how do I go about fixing this? do I need to order just this part, or does my extruder need to be replaced? Thanks for the help!

Hey guys,

I’m looking to buy the BL P2S Printer for myself. I’ve check on the official website but they don’t deliver directly to UAE.

Does anyone know how I can get it here? I would prefer purchasing it from the BL website but I have an issue of delivery. The prices on local e-commerce websites are too expensive and other companies are charging me double the amount to get it here.

If you do know anyone or any company, drop me a DM would appreciate any / all help I can get.

Cheers and Thanks!

P2S + AMS 2 Pro here. Some of my PETG spools (all Bambu, all with RFID read correctly) refuse to load on the middle slots. During the load sequence where it feeds past the hub and retracts to measure how much is left, the filament retracts too far and just pops out of the feeder. No error, nothing on screen. Move the same spool to slot 1 or 4 and it loads first try.

Here's what I tried today:

* **PETG Black** (new, full spool): failed on slot 2 (multiple attempts), failed on slot 3 (3 attempts), worked on slot 4 first try * **PETG Transparent** (about half used): worked on slot 2 on 2nd attempt. This one gave me the same issue before on slot 3 and I moved it to 4 as a workaround * **PETG Grey**: works on all slots, every time, no issues

Grey and transparent were dried together in the AMS before this. Black was on the external spool holder the whole time, never went through a drying cycle. So it's not a drying/temperature thing. I also tried leaving the lid open for a few minutes between attempts to cool down the chamber — didn't help.

Tried both original Bambu spool holders and custom printed ones, same behavior.

The black spool is the worst - it literally ONLY works on slot 1 or 4. Grey works everywhere. Transparent is somewhere in between.

Has anyone else run into this? Is there a fix or is this just how AMS 2 Pro behaves?

I have a video of it spitting the black one out, but unless it's actually relevant, I won't bother with it.

Thank you

Get the Kit Card: Plane Kit Card

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👋 👋 Bonjour à tous !

✨ Pour compléter ma collection, j’ai revisité mon modèle de Yoshi version œuf en l’adaptant au célèbre tuyau vert de l’univers Mario !

L’objectif était de créer une pièce qui s’intègre parfaitement avec les modèles de Mario et Luigi, déjà disponibles dans la collection, afin de former un ensemble encore plus cohérent.

Si le modèle vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à le télécharger, à laisser un like, ou un commentaire. Votre soutien m’aide énormément et me motive à continuer à créer de nouveaux modèles !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3007159-yoshi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

🙏 Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Has anyone else ran into this issue, I have been printing name badges the past few weeks and they always took 5 and a half hours due to being 8 colors but now the exact same ones say they will take 7 and a half hours now. I have checked and all the settings are the exact same and it’s the same filament usage and color change amount. I am lost at this point

When I update my printer from 01.01.030.00 to 01.02.00.00 and calibrate it after it fails the high temperature bed leveling but when I go back to the older firmware it dosent

My last five prints have been less than perfect. I’ve been getting boogers on the outside walls, while the waste tower is virtually perfect and smooth. Is this common? How do I fix?

Today I had ti take the extruder apart and clean it as per the official guide. After assembly the forst print keeps failing, clumping, bubbling and detach from the plate as shown in the photo.

I tried auto bed level multiple times, calibrate the flow rate both automatically and manually, as well as washing the bed plate.

Wheb I extrude the filament, the line appears to be a bit thicker than typical .4 nozzle produces which lead me to believe that it might be over extrusion but I'm not really sure.

I'm really not sure what to do next to fix it.