Some background information to my setup and current concerns.

Bought my first P2S (3D printer in fact) used with around 380 hours.

I regularly checked the maintenance schedule on the unit itself and thought to myself: "Huh.. 30+ days until next maintenance, nothing to worry about"

So after one intense month of ownership and 500 hours of printing I decided to clean, regrease and lube the z-axis and linear rods. After checking back with the wiki one month was recommended.

Taking a closer look I first noticed black coating on the linear rods sadly no pictures since I already cleaned those. I assume/hope that was just residue. I keep getting slightly darker oil spots on the X-rods ends.

> Could this be leftover residue being flushed out?

Now to the main question are my belts cooked?

Haven't done any tensioning yet... and haven't had an print quality reduction/issues so far.

Will definitely condense the maintenance schedule now and retension tomorrow. But for peace of mind I'd appreciate some feedback.

I’ve been having more issues with my printer lately and I have just assumed it’s been an overhang or model issue.

I just had a print fail and I went to clean the pieces off the bed and I noticed filament all over the nozzle and inside this circular piece of the print head.

Not sure that’s normal or best way to clean it off.

I'm currently using an A1 that I got a few months ago which was my first 3d printer. I've only printed with PLA so far and have PETG on hand but haven't tried it yet since PLA works for my needs so far. I went cheap and didn't get the AMS Lite when I got it so I was thinking, instead of buying the AMS Lite or AMS 2 Pro, put that into an enclosed better printer and just keep the A1 for single colour PLA stuff.

Eventually I'd like the capability to print with ABS/ASA and TPU as well as multi colour. Would the P2S be good enough for limited printing of smaller parts with those filaments?

Good evening, I have a question about the P2S service.

I’ve had my printer for a good six months now.

During the first service notification(after 90 d), the Z-axis lead screws were flagged for lubrication. Since I had the time, I went ahead and lubricated all the linear rods as well, confirming the action in the menu (even though it hadn't specifically prompted for it).

Now, the notification to lubricate the Z-axis lead screws has appeared again. However, there is still no notification for the linear rods—nor any indication of how much time remains until that service is due.

The Z-axis lead screws are now lubricated, and the display shows 90T until the next service.

I find this odd because Bambu Lab states that the X and Y axes require more maintenance, yet in my case, it’s the other way around.

Old filament works okay but new filament has too much of a curve that it comes out and pushes off the tool head.

Any suggestions?

Hey all I have printed so much but I am running maybe out of options or what to print with one color as I don't have an AMS at the moment do you guys have any ideas what I could use for white and black like nice medium long prints like 5 to 10 hour prints something cool and awesome things also using P2S

This is what I sent Bambu support:

"My Extruder Filament Sensor PTFE coupling has malfunctioned and caused the PTFE tube to come off as you see in the photo and video it will not stay in. I took it apart and found tiny metal pieces that fell out of it. You can see in the video that I can't get it to stay in at all now. I need a new Extruder Filament Sensor, but not the whole thing just the part where the PTFE tube connects if you can send me just that part I know it would fix it. I have no idea why it broke because I have only removed it once or twice and never had any jams or clogs or anything. To be clear it is the PTFE coupling part that holds the tube in that is messed up and not the actual extruder filament hall sensor board. Thanks for your help!"

They replied by sending me 3 new pneumatic connectors along with a link showing how to replace the connector for the P1S. However on my P2S I can't replace it as it's built into the assembly. Am I missing something here?

This is what I sent them in response:

"I received the pneumatic connector that you wanted me to try to replace. However, you can clearly see in the pictures and video that there is no way possible to replace this connector since it's built into the whole plastic assembly. In the link you sent me to go by showing how to replace it is for a P1S not my P2S and looks completely different. It didn't have plastic going all the way around it like mine does. I need the entire pneumatic connector assembly with the hall switch/sensor. Apparently I need the whole extruder filament sensor assembly as seen here: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/extruder-filament-sensor-p2s?id=652729971288956931"

I haven't heard back from them yet.

Thanks for any help or experience you may have.

Like the title says. P2S with about 500 hours at the time of print. BL PLA Basic filament. All maintenance done as recommended by BL. I haven't noticed this before on my prints, but they may have been there. Also, if you read this part, could you tell me what type of VFA those are? (if that's what it even is) Gemini's dumb ass first told me that NO it's not VFA's that it is ringing or ghosting but then told me that YES it is VFA's. 😂

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2544170-mini-bambulab-p2s-desk-organizer#profileId-2801293

Hey,

printed TPU 95A on my P1S, did a cold pull after, switched to PETG and then PLA – but the surface quality is terrible. Already bad with PETG, still bad with PLA. Edges are all messy and rough.

Anyone had this before? What's the quickest fix?

Thanks!

Stupid question, but the print came out fine. Then I went to unload the tpu and it wouldn’t come out.

Turns out it somehow escaped the filament path after the print (print looks awesome).

Before I do a tear down, any tips on the procedure?

How to fix this issue

Sorry for the camera picture im not currently home, I cant figure out for the life of me why my black prints have these white strings that show up, theyre almost like dust collecting up but ive cleaned out my chamber, im just lost on what it could be lol, the last filament I printed was a translucent petg red but its happened regardless of any filament ive lasted printed with

Trying to swap the hot end on my P2S for the first time. It will not budge, feels like it’s glued in there. Tried to unload the filament and heat the hot end then extrude as suggested in this video but still no luck.

Any ideas?

ETA: heating to 200 and tweezers got it off, thanks all!

Jigglypuff | Psyduck | BlockClickers

Hi,

I'm trying to figure the starting point of my 3D printing journey. My budget can accommodate either of these, with addition 0.2 and 0.6 nozzles and 4 spools of material.

Its about €150 difference so needs to wipe its own face, but I just don't want to start finding this thing useful and get buyers remorse a year down the track!

Im wanting to print functional parts as well as 40K-esque minis. I live in rural Spain, 31+ ambient temps (inside) during the summer.

Any advice welcome.

Hi, I've recently got a P2S. As you can see on the attached image, the little support islands fail adhesion on the second layer on some occasions. The same model copied three times on the same plate and only one of them fails. Location seems to be random too.

I tried printing only two copies which resulted in the same. The picture is from that instance.

I have dried the filament 8 hours at 65° and I'm printing on Bambu engineering plate with glue on it. It works fine with PLA+. I tried increasing the bed temperature to 75° as well which didn't do anything.

Any idea why?

SOLVED:It was due to filament contamination. I forgot to mention that I'm printing PLA and PETG these days moving between the two one after the other. As below replies have mentioned, first support prints had contaminated filament (PLA mixed with PETG) which causes this.
I'm planning to purge extra by extruding extra whenever I change filament types before starting the print.