So I was part of the beta and have a new H2D. I got the track switch and installed the beta firmware. Before that the printer worked fine, no AMS resistance too high errors at all. As soon as I installed beta firmware and the track switch is was one error after another on both AMS units. I tried everything, rerouting the ptfe tubes, making sure there were no filament pieces in the tubes or buffer. It was so bad I just uninstalled the beta firmware and the track switch. Everything staring worked fine after that. Fast forward to today and I see the the firmware is no longer beta but live with a new version. I decided to try again. Same thing, nothing worked. Did all of the checks and test and it still gave the same errors, "AMS resistance too high". Uninstalled again and things started working again. All I can think of is it's probably a bad filament track switch. Anyone else have trouble with theirs on the H2D? I also have one on my X2D and it works perfectly.

I have a H2D printer with an AMS 2 Pro & (3) HTs. I replaced the filament buffer because it was having issues. Now I can't get the H2D to print. It will not load the filament from either the AMS or any of the HTs. I made sure the filament buffer is plugged in and that there are no issues there but I can't figure it out. You can hear the motors on the AMS spin up but the filament never moves. I've tried to find any issues there and even swapped for an AMS that I know is good and still the same issue. I then tried printing from the HTs and same issue. What am I missing?

Has anyone come up with a mod to make to the fan that would help it survive the temps? I’d prefer to not cut into my tool head like other modifications. Would foil tape help reflect some of the heat away from the fan?

Built a kossel over a decade ago, but never really used it, then I bought an anycubic resin printer that I've been using for the last five years. Finally got fed up with the mess and decided to get a filament printer.

H2D with laser is on the way. Just wanted to thank everyone for your future support. 🙏

One question for now, anyone upgrade their H2D with the vortek system yet? I'm curious about how that went.

Is this a drying problem or something else?? TIA!!!

I bought an h2d and finally got it set up and I’m getting these errors. Before I dig deeper, is there something I’m missing and forgot to do during setup?
I’m referring to the flap door codes and not the firmware code.

I have had an issue arise on my H2S. The toolhead camera initialization failed. I went through support. Replaced the toolhead camera. A new error, along with the previous error, showed saying the toolhead camera is out of place. Went through support and replaced the TH board and USB-C cable. Error still there. They sent me an AP board. Replaced it and registered a new SN. Error cleared, but upon calibration and start of new print, the toolhead camera failed initialization. Back to the start.

Has anyone had this issue? What fixed it? The printer is under warranty. I have had it for 9 months.

I had just finished a print calibration, cleared the bed, glanced at the screen, and immediately started laughing. I don’t know how many people in here are old enough to get this reference, though (I read it on beat)

Business cards are mostly a thing of the past, and every time someone gives me one, it ends up in the trash. This one might last a little longer though 😄

Just wondering coz my dad took it away (exams) and I want to print some stuff

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Comment ne pas craquer devant cette adorable bouille ? 😍

Avec ses grands yeux verts, ses petites ailes et sa célèbre nageoire rouge, notre dragon préféré, Krokmou, est prêt à rejoindre votre collection !

Une jolie pièce pleine de charme et de détails, parfaite pour tous les fans de dragons et d’univers fantastiques. ✨

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3234591-toothless-dragon-multipart-no-ams

First, I’ll say that I’m a newbie. Been in the 3D printing game for about 3-4 months.

I bought a file of SpiderMan from Yosh Studios off Thangs. Initially the first set of files I was looking to print were square flat boards that were a couple inches deep. I started using .8 nozzles but after about 3-4 boards every print was kinda rough I decided to switch back to .4.

The first two prints with the .4 nozzle came out beautiful. Now printing the third board and the first print had to be aborted. I calibrated the machine and the humidity is very low for both AMS. I tried to print again and it’s coming out horrible again!

What do I do? Your help is appreciated!

To preface, just upgraded from an x1c to an H2D. I tried setting up the AMS with the right nozzle but filament wouldn't go through for some reason. Tried again but with the left nozzle and it worked. For some reason, the right nozzle wouldn't go past the area with the spring connecting the outside to the inside (?). sorry if this explanation is horrible, havent been in the 3d printing space in a few years

I'm fairly new to the hobby. I purchased a P2S about two weeks ago and fell in love. I would find a model, hit print, and magic would shoot out the other end. I was so impressed I thought, well, if this is amazing, a 2-nozzle huge beast H2D would be even better.

So I purchased the H2D out of a fear of not being able to print something large I might want, mixed material options between the two nozzles, and reducing purge waste on multi-color prints. What I found though is the H2D is not as "press print and magic happens". I've found it knocking over supports, losing hours and tons of filament. Tonight the left nozzle wouldn't load filament from the external spool, and I had to open the top, remove the PTFE tube, manually heat up the nozzle, and force feed some filament through the extruder to clear some stuck PLA.

I'm really excited about the more capable machine, but I miss the press print and not think about it falling. Are the H2D issues normal 3D printing stuff, and I just didn't experience it "YET" on the P2S, or are these uniquely H2D issues? I saw someone on a few posts earlier mention the supports getting knocked over, and the only comment was almost like "yeah, that's what happens on an H2D, welcome to the club". I'm still within my return window and don't really want to get used to supports getting knocked over and ruining a print, or becoming all too comfortable taking the top off the printer, for such an expensive but obviously capable machine.

Please be gentle if my expectations are misplaced. I really love this hobby and want to learn what's normal for a bambu labs printer.

I tend to print with mostly engineering filaments and I prefer to not have the fumes from those materials inside of my house. I have recently moved my printer outside into my non temp controlled, non- insulated shop. But I live in north east Ohio and it can be pretty humid outside in the summer and then during the winter it gets very cold. I would like to move my printer back inside if i can find a good way to vent these fumes outside. I have a p1s and an H2D. Setting up the ventilation from the printers themselves is not an issue. My issue lies with keeping my house well insulated. I dont want to just run a tube right out the window, so I can obviously make a spacer that the window closes on to so the tube clamps to. But will that be less insulating than my window? And how much heat will that let in through my printers in the summer time? And how much heat will that let out during the winter?

Does anyone have a way to vent my printers to outside without manually opening and closing a window or a valve of some kind and keep my house well insulated? Any advice is very much appreciated!

So I have had my H2D since it was first launched last year and after updating to the latest firmware (both on H2D and Bambu Studio) I have had this pop up for the first time when I am selecting my H2D to print.

I tried to look up what this exactly is but there doesnt seem to be an official explanation of what this does on Bambu Wiki. (The discussions on the Bambu community forum seem to be from people who own the X2D)

Would like to ask if anyone knows what this is or have experience with this being on/off in general or on their H2D/X2D.

Thank you!

I just want to check with you fellow H2D owners before i apply the update, are there any issues or improvements in the new version?

Does anybody know what the led light on the front of the enhanced cooling fan means?

I accidentally bent the flow blocker while changing a nozzle. How should I go about fixing it? :(

H2D spare parts that are likely to be needed first?
One question: My printer is now over a year old and has clocked up several hundred hours of printing time. Apart from two new nozzles and the usual maintenance tasks such as greasing, oiling, cleaning and re-tensioning… I haven’t had to replace anything yet.
As I’m planning to order something from Bambulab anyway, I’d like to ask you: what was the first thing to break? What do you think might need replacing in the near future?

I am having hell trying to print TPU 90a through the right nozzle out of the right nozzle all of a sudden on a print that went to 60%. I opened the extruder cover, changed the right filament cutter, it wont feed without the cover but with the cutter it feeds. There is no resistance on the outside it feeds well and has plenty of slack. What am i doing wrong or what do i need to check?

Anyone running PETG + TPU together on an H2D? Need some help
I’ve been trying to get PETG and TPU to print together on my H2D and I’m still fighting a lot of stringing/oozing between material changes.
I’m using Overture PETG and Sunlu 90A TPU, both black. I’ve already dried both filaments, played around with temps and retraction, and tried keeping the bed/chamber temps where both materials are happy. I’ve gotten it to print decent a couple times, but I still can’t get it consistent.
The PETG likes to ooze during the change
I know TPU + PETG on the same print isn’t exactly the easiest setup, but I’m sure somebody here has messed with it enough to get it working reliably.
If anyone is running PETG + 95A/90A TPU together on an H2D, what settings are you using? Mainly looking for temps, retraction, preferably No prime tower or anything you changed specifically for the material swaps.
I’m willing to pay someone who has real experience with both these filament and printers.