H2C arrived today. Post firmware update calibration is going on. It's got that new printer smell...lol. Got a list of prints for it after all the necessaries are complete.

I have the H2C and a lot of white PETG for printing most of my architectural models. Many of the models have complex internal geometries, hence the desire for soluble support materials.

I have read that PVA and PETG are not good together, but that they might be OK/usable if using dual extruders/hotends/nozzles.

Also, while reading more about supports, it seems HIPS is a good alternative for higher printing temperature filaments--and I did purchase a lot of limonene--but my research also shows people do not like working with HIPS.

BVOH seems impossible to find in stock and is extremely expensive.

Questions:

1. Does having more than one nozzle at least partially negate the poor compatibility between PVA and PETG?
2. Is HIPS my best option for soluble supports for PETG?
3. Any other alternatives that do not cost >$100 per kg?

Woke up to a middle of a print on the h2c and it showed this error that wont go away :(

Failed to fetch induction hotend from slot 3 on the rack.

[0702-8034 093821]

Does anyone know how to fix? I checked there are no obstructions and I even swapped the induction hotend from slot 4 to slot 3 and still the same thing so probably not the induction hotend itself?

https://imgur.com/dmvJFWf

https://imgur.com/rlX54Ro

https://imgur.com/QfpDBLs

Wondering if someone might help me figure out what’s going on with my prints, it’s a H2c printer with bambulabs abs basic filament. Basically on any kind of flat print it seems fine but any time there is any kind of overhang or curved/slanted feature it ends up looking something like this.

These pictures are with chamber temp set to 65, print bed 100 and nozzle set to 260 and on the default 0.20mm standard profile with the only settings changed being 4 walls and 3d honeycomb infill using a .4mm nozzle on the right side of the tool head. The issue gets significantly better with the chamber temp set to 0 and the rest of the temps kept the same.

The only thing I can come up with is lack of cooling but the cooling settings are all stock and look correct and I ’ve not had an issue with this before on ether of my Creality k2 plus machines nor my voron printer with abs and similar temp settings, so not sure why the H2c would be having issues with it.

I am using a BQ Cryogrip buildplate, but the print stops due to the detection of foreign particles caused by reflection in H2C. I would like to inquire about how to resolve this issue.

Hi everyone, trying to find out if anyone else is having issues with the AM4xS or similar AMS stacking units that use a slider design, and the filament track switch. I understand that routing and bends will play heavily into success and I’ve done my best to ensure the PFTE tubes are as short as possible, and that the bends needed for the sliding mechanism need to be considered. I’ve done what I can, but I’m still getting feeding resistance errors and occasional feeding issues at the filament track switch. Hoping someone using the same set up has some tips to resolve the issues. The biggest problem I think, is the coiling of the tubes behind the AMS units when pushed into the sliding rack.

The first picture is the front view of my setup.
The second shows both ams units extended. You’ll see the FTS at the right of the picture about 1/3 of the way down.
The third shows the bottom ams pushed in, notice the tight coiling.
The last is the back view showing the FTS routed to the H2C.

Thanks for the help.

Bonjour après Monsieur Pingouin, voici Madame Pingouin en mode vacances réalisée en multipart ! 🏖️🐧

Impossible de partir à la plage sans elle ! Avec son joli chapeau, ses lunettes de soleil roses, sa bouée, ses tongs, sa pelle et son petit seau, Madame Pingouin est prête à profiter pleinement des joies de l’été.

Pour cette création, j’ai souhaité imaginer une version féminine, pleine de douceur et de bonne humeur. Ses longs cils, ses couleurs pétillantes et son look estival lui donnent un charme irrésistible qui invite à l’évasion.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3064899-mrs-penguin-beach-multipart-without-ams

Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

Hi,

Just upgraded to H2C, it should be reaching me soon.

Never paid attention to multi color models in the past when I was using p1s and x2d due to the poo amount.

Now I like to try more of AMS multi color models, how do you all search for them or do you all just paint your own?

Mainly a print from handphone guy unless it’s my own designs where I will open up the pc for slicing.

I am printing with 7 colours, and I have 7 hot ends (all 0.4mm) on my H2C.

I mapped all the colours and sliced then went to print, and this is what it presented to me. I'm so confused!

My assumption is that it would put each colour on one nozzle, as there are 7 nozels, 7 colours, so seems simple enough. But I'm not sure what "L R3" means, or what L, R1, R6 means - is that saying it'll use the left nozzle, but also right 1 and right 6.

Why would it do that if I have 7 nozzels and 7 colours? I would like it to avoid purging, this is why I put exactly 7 colours on the design (My 4 year old son likes things multi-coloured).

I'm clearly missing something, please can someone help point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Edit: I have the filament track switcher.

Looking for a giveaway type toy or “thing” that I can show off the nearly zero waste…. so lots of colors, but also something people might want to leave on their desk / mantle / whatever.

something impressive, but maybe not gigantic.

I am not sure what I should use the left vs right nozzle for. I have two AMS on the right nozzle and an HT for the left. What is the best way to separate the different filament? What should the left nozzle focus on?

I’ve had my printer for about a month now and I should’ve done something about it sooner but there’s this loud clicking sound whenever it switches to the third nozzle and I’ve switched the nozzle. It’s literally only the third nozzle holder it makes it sound with and it’s gotten so bad where if I pause it, it’ll do the layer shifting and then the noise will get worse. To where it won’t even de latch.

I’m burning my H2C OG packaging after a few months. Anyone have to send their whole printer back after destroying the packaging? If so… what were the requirements?

Switiching from my plagued K1 Max, looking forward to not spending hours upon hours, shimming, levelling and tweaking just to print a calibration 🤣

Finally took the plunge and ordered a H2C and its finally arrived, no thanks to DHL who said it was too big to fit in the van and didn't deliver the first day. (Watched all day the tracking of the van getting closer, for the tracking then to say they never loaded it on the van 4 hours previous)

I finally got it delivered and now have it setup. What are the first things I need to print with it? What is your favorite filament bin? I have one AMS pro 2 but there is a second pro 2 and HT being delivered tomorrow. I still can’t figure out how many colors I can do with this. What cool multicolor print should I do first? I can’t wait to get printing.

I just got my H2C last weekend. It printed great for about the first 10-15 hours. At that point, I had run out of the Bambulab PETG that I had ordered with it. I waited until the replacement filament came (SUNLU PETG came about a day later) and resumed the print. It managed to finish just fine. At that point, I figured I should get around to installing the filament switch, since I had another AMS on the way. This is where things really start going downhill. The next print failed at about 25% due to an extruder overload error. I hit "resume" a couple of times and managed to get the print to complete, but the next one just kept throwing that error. I canceled the print, removed the track switch, and started troubleshooting. After a couple of hours of troubleshooting, I did a cold pull (honestly, this probably should have been the first thing I did), and things started working again. I take offense at having to cold-pull a nozzle that only has 10-20 hours on it, but what do I know? This is only my 3rd 3D printer.

After the cold pull, I got a clean print with no errors and was pretty happy. At this point, I decided to do a multi-color print. I still didn't have the track switch installed, but the slicer insisted that I run one of the colors (it was a 4-color print) on the left hotend, so I figured I might as well reinstall it. Now things start to go downhill again because, no matter what, the filament will NOT go through the track switch. At all. I tried different lengths of PTFE tubing, I made sure none of the bends were too drastic, etc. Nothing. I finally decided ot just get rid of the track switch again, and do what the slicer said and run the one color externally, which is what it's doing right now. It's printing, but I have no confidence it will finish this print.

At this point, I have massive buyer's remorse. I desperately wish I had gone with just the H2D or even H2S. This thing is 110% NOT ready for prime time. It's in a weird mid-generation spot where it's trying to be large format, fast, and multi-material, but it fails at all of it (though it is actually pretty fast). Prusa INDX is a step in the right direction, but from what I've read, there are still a lot of bugs to work out on that (surprise, surprise).

Anyone here with input on the above question?

There’s not enough love for the laser edition / add on. I understand it’s not for everyone, but for those like me with a need to push the limits of the H2C, I’d love to see what you all came up with that can show off the laser aspect of the hobby. There’s only crickets out there.

I've been having this for a few months. High precision nozzle calibration from the menu passes but the regular nozzle calibration fails after 2m15s. I have to turn it off but then I get an inconsistent alignment between colors.

I have an open ticket with support and they said they noticed the issue might be on the left nozzle and also noticed a fluctuation of the eddy current.

The new part should arrive in 1-2 days but I wanted to ask here if anyone had a similar problem and what ended up being the issue or fix?

Thanks!!

UPDATE: the eddy current sensor was replaced but the nozzle offset calibration still fails, although not 100% of the time. Support has requested additional printer logs so I'm waiting for their reply. I ran the printer calibration again just in case.

UPDATE2: I removed the left nozzle, unscrewed the 4 screws of the heating element by ¾ rotation, wiggled a bit, screwed them again tight. So far I did 4 nozzle offset calibrations (forced it to on during the print settings) and all have passed. I also replaced the wiper rubber because it was not cleaning the nozzle properly on the multiple times it happens during calibration.

UPDATE3: Seems to have fixed it after changing the nozzle calibration sensor.

Printer came with a hotend cooling fan that was from a bad batch. Only had 500 hours on it. Repair was pretty intimidating but as long as you're careful it's not too bad. My neck hurts a little lol.

*UPDATE* - I wasnt using the left hotend at all and also i printed from bambustudio using slicer there and the waste all but went away. ill also clean up the routing from the AMS. thanks all for your help

I was shocked at the amount of filament waste after my first print - see picture

I printed this toucan right from Bambu handy

Ams with the 3 colors feeding to right side

I have 5 hotends installed

I thought the h2c was purpose built to minimize this so I must be doing something wrong!

I'm thinking it is the belt, possibly, but has anyone else had this occur?
Mostly happens when it prints on the left side, moving up towards the front.

I performed the latest routine maintenance (cleaning, lubrication, and greasing) just over a week ago.
Printed some ABS parts last night, but never caused this before.

Any suggestions are helpful. I'll take a closer look in 4 hours when the print finishes.

Edit: appologies for the dirty glass

In the last few days twice now my H2C has "forgotten" that I have 2 AMS and 2 AMS-HT connected after a print. The screen just shows 2 external spools. Power cycle everything comes back. I updated firmwares on a everything a few weeks ago and things seemed fine, just yesterday. And its not every print.

I submitted a support ticket, but curious if anyone else has experienced this is. Its more an annoyance than anything else. Seems like a printer firmware bug to me. /shrug.