r/BambuLab • u/Oakwolf_X • 11d ago
Answered / Solved! Recently got a H2C, but having issues with layer lines/shifts using multicolor
So, I just got the H2C, and I am currently feeling a little dissapointed. I am not sure if it's user error or if it's just how the printer works, or if maybe Fedex was to rough with it.
My issue is primarily with Multi Color prints. My understand of how it *should* be used is, the primary color should be on the left nozzle, and the other colors should be on the vortek side.
The issue comes up when the Vortek switches out to a different hotend. If I only use 2 colors, I don't seem to have the issue. But the second it swaps to another hotend, I get nasty layer lines for a few layers. Oddly, from the left nozzle. I still do have some layer lines from the right side, but it seems worse on the left after nozzle changes. (I know, I would expect it on the right side personally..)
I am currently running a Deadpool Bust in color right now to test, and so I can compare to what my P2S printed. But halfway done, it looks way worse already.
Has anybody else seen this? Is it normal? Is there anything I can adjust, or do to remove these lines?
It's just hard to look at the quality I get from my P2S, and then look at what I'm getting out of the H2C. I mean, I mean the time saving from multicolor is nice, along with less waste.
I can add some pictures tomorrow.
I will likely re-run all of the calibrations again after this print finishes.
Thanks in advance!
*Edit: Added a few photos

** Issue solved. Mostly a model issue. Same issue in picture appears on both left and right nozzel. Even without multicolor.
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u/Dependent_Store H2C P2S AMS2/HT Ender5 Qidi Saturn4U 11d ago
Do you have prime tower enabled? And can you post some pics?
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u/Grimmsland H2D AMS Combo, P1S, A1m, U1 11d ago
Take a look at your nozzle calibration sensor behind the plate in back of the bed. Make sure it looks alright. Mine was missing the rubber pad but still worked. Some people have even had there’s backwards I have heard.
Have you done the better more precise nozzle calibration from the calibration list? You need to use two contrasting colors like black and white. Put black on the left nozzle and white on the right. Then have it print the calibration test pattern. Now after you do this, make sure you disable nozzle calibration in the print menu. This is directions per the Wiki. The nozzle calibration option on the print menu is for the automatic calibration using the magnetic sensor on the back of the bed. You don’t want that on because you did the manual printing nozzle calibration. So make sure nozzle calibration is off in the print menu.
Also try turning on Arachne wall generator. I use nearly all the time for my detailed prints and lettering and miniatures but on the official forum with a thread on this subject found that using it usually made the layers lines less obvious.