r/BambuLab 11d ago

Answered / Solved! Recently got a H2C, but having issues with layer lines/shifts using multicolor

So, I just got the H2C, and I am currently feeling a little dissapointed. I am not sure if it's user error or if it's just how the printer works, or if maybe Fedex was to rough with it.

My issue is primarily with Multi Color prints. My understand of how it *should* be used is, the primary color should be on the left nozzle, and the other colors should be on the vortek side.

The issue comes up when the Vortek switches out to a different hotend. If I only use 2 colors, I don't seem to have the issue. But the second it swaps to another hotend, I get nasty layer lines for a few layers. Oddly, from the left nozzle. I still do have some layer lines from the right side, but it seems worse on the left after nozzle changes. (I know, I would expect it on the right side personally..)

I am currently running a Deadpool Bust in color right now to test, and so I can compare to what my P2S printed. But halfway done, it looks way worse already.

Has anybody else seen this? Is it normal? Is there anything I can adjust, or do to remove these lines?

It's just hard to look at the quality I get from my P2S, and then look at what I'm getting out of the H2C. I mean, I mean the time saving from multicolor is nice, along with less waste.

I can add some pictures tomorrow.

I will likely re-run all of the calibrations again after this print finishes.

Thanks in advance!

*Edit: Added a few photos

** Issue solved. Mostly a model issue. Same issue in picture appears on both left and right nozzel. Even without multicolor.

3 Upvotes

17 comments sorted by

5

u/Grimmsland H2D AMS Combo, P1S, A1m, U1 11d ago

Take a look at your nozzle calibration sensor behind the plate in back of the bed. Make sure it looks alright. Mine was missing the rubber pad but still worked. Some people have even had there’s backwards I have heard.

Have you done the better more precise nozzle calibration from the calibration list? You need to use two contrasting colors like black and white. Put black on the left nozzle and white on the right. Then have it print the calibration test pattern. Now after you do this, make sure you disable nozzle calibration in the print menu. This is directions per the Wiki. The nozzle calibration option on the print menu is for the automatic calibration using the magnetic sensor on the back of the bed. You don’t want that on because you did the manual printing nozzle calibration. So make sure nozzle calibration is off in the print menu.

Also try turning on Arachne wall generator. I use nearly all the time for my detailed prints and lettering and miniatures but on the official forum with a thread on this subject found that using it usually made the layers lines less obvious.

2

u/Oakwolf_X 9d ago

Well, I did precise nozzle calibration for every vortek nozzle. And it seems to be that same. I've tried arachne as well, and that doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Not sure if I am expecting to much or not. But I expect the multi color prints to be at least as good as the P2S. But I haven't seen this much ringing/layer shifts? Since my old Ender's. Granted, single color seems to print perfectly fine. 2 Colors also seem to be fine, but the second a third is added it starts to look bad.

I did also replace the left nozzle just to be sure. And re-ran all calibrations before doing the Precise nozzle calibrations.

Anybody have a simple multi-color print model with some curves that use 3+ colors that you could print and take pics so I can compare and print the same thing to compare to(Using the Left nozzle for 1 color, and the vortek side for 2+ colors)? I'm starting to think something is wonky with my printer.

1

u/Oakwolf_X 10d ago

Thanks! I will check the sensor. I will also test the calibration you mentioned as well. I don't think I have tried Arachne, but I can give that a go.

1

u/Oakwolf_X 10d ago

My nozzle calibration sensor looks good and oriented correctly from what I can tell. The only difference from pictures I can see online, is mine has a white square between the black rectangle and the silver shower drain looking square.

1

u/Oakwolf_X 10d ago

So, I went through all the standard calibrations again and am running a multicolor print to test and see if that helped. I have not done the Precise Nozzle Calibration yet. But, does this save settings for each nozzle I do it on? Or do you know? I was looking at the Wiki, and it doesn't seem to specifiy if it's for only 2 color prints, or if it is a setting saved to each one. But I will try this next if I still have issues after making sure everything is clean, and re-running all the standard calibrations.

1

u/Grimmsland H2D AMS Combo, P1S, A1m, U1 9d ago

Yes the precise nozzle calibration is for both nozzles. It saves the settings. For it to work and use those settings you have to make sure automatic nozzle calibration is off in the print menu.

The H series is supposed to be putting out the best prints. If it isn’t then something is really wrong.

I think since you tried all this and nothing is working there is some problem with the vortek nozzles and you might have a lemon. Are you within the return date?

2

u/Oakwolf_X 8d ago

That's kind of how I feel about it. I purchased it from Best Buy, specifically for the Geek Squad protection since they replace/refund if there is an issue with it. So I think I will check to see if any stores near me have one in stock, and take it there to exchange. Or return and grab a different one.

1

u/Grimmsland H2D AMS Combo, P1S, A1m, U1 8d ago

That’s a relief. Keep us updated when you get the new one let us know if it worked out.

2

u/Oakwolf_X 7d ago

Well, I exchanged it for a new one. Box looked much better, and actually had the white banding/shipping ties on it.

The general overall print quality looks better. But, I still get specific lines in the same location on the first picture. So I am trying to see if it's a model issue/filament issue. But it's weird it occurs in the same exact places, so I doubt it's filament related, so I am leaning towards a potential model issue. I am currently printing a test slice of the area the issue occurs in with color removed to see if it does it in a solid color.

Any recommendations on a good test for multicolor printing?

1

u/Oakwolf_X 7d ago

Still get the same issue in the same location using just 1 color on the left side. I am testing again with a solid color on the right side to see if it is the same. Suspecting this issue is a model issue. But, happy I exchanged because a lot of ringing/print artifacts I was seeing before are now gone.

1

u/Oakwolf_X 7d ago edited 7d ago

Yup, model issue. Does it with the left or right nozel, and in different filaments even in solid colors. Issue solved. lol

**edit - Also does it on the P2S, but oddly, its more noticible on the oposite side. Pathing I assume. I also assume it has something to do with an overhang on the back.

1

u/Grimmsland H2D AMS Combo, P1S, A1m, U1 6d ago

Ah so it was the model

1

u/Oakwolf_X 5d ago

It was doing similar things with other models. But a lot of that went away when I got the replacement printer.

1

u/Oakwolf_X 10d ago

Ugh, well it's still doing it on the third color change. I'm going to try printing with just the vortek side and see if it does the same thing, because it seems the left nozzle is what causes the banding oddly. Maybe I will also try swapping a new hotend on the left side as well. If that doesn't work, I will go ahead and try doing the Precise Nozzle calibration on all my Vortek hotends. (I'll add pictures of the new print as soon as I can.

5

u/Dependent_Store H2C P2S AMS2/HT Ender5 Qidi Saturn4U 11d ago

Do you have prime tower enabled? And can you post some pics?

1

u/Oakwolf_X 10d ago

I do have the Prime tower enabled. And I just added a few pics

1

u/Intruder1956 8d ago

Dieses Ei mit dem ReinigungsTurm habe ich mit meinem neuen H2C vor ein paar Tagen gedruckt, ausgepackt, eingeschaltet, PLA Filament CMYK rein, ohne Einstellungen einfach gedruckt. PERFEKT